THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


frxrmtljje 


l    DUE LITZ, 

Professor  in  the  .Royal  Institute. Merlin, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


TRAVELLERS'  ADVENTURES 

or 

ALL   COUNTRIES. 

ABRIDGED  FKOM  THE  BEST  WRITERS 
FOR  YOUNG  PERSONS. 


BY    THEODORE    OIELITZ, 

SSOR  IN  THE  ROYAL  INSTITUTE,  BERLIN. 


TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  GERMAN,  BY  A  LADY. 


®8?Ct&  Illustration*  ott  Stunt. 


WILLIS  P.  HAZARD,  178  CHESTNUT  STREET, 

PHILADELPHIA. 

18  54. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  yeax  1853,  by 
WILLIS  P.  HAZABD, 

in  the  Office  of  the  Clerk  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Eastern  District 
of  Pennsylvania. 


PRINTED  BY  SMITH  A  PETERS, 
Franklin  Buildings,  Sixth  Street  below  Arch,  Philadelphia. 


CanUnt*. 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA, 5 

A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES, 32 

THE  WATER  SPOUT, 60 

THE  SLAVE  SHIP, 75 

ADVENTURES  WITH  A  LION, 118 

A  BATTLE  WITH  A  TIGER,     -    -    -    - 127 

A  HUNTING  ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES,      -    -    -  138 

THE  PANTHER'S  DEN, 152 

(iii) 


503757 


TRAVELLERS'  ADVENTURES. 


In  UttftttJn  in  £iiKtfif,fi* 

IT  was  on  the  afternoon  of  a  most  sultry  day  in  Septem- 
ber, 1849,  that  my  friend  Carleton  and  myself  found  our- 
selves still  wandering  over  the  extended  prairie,  where,  for 
three  days,  we  had  busied  ourselves  in  the  collecting  of  rare 
insects  and  plants.  We  had  filled  our  pockets  and  satchels 
to  our  entire  satisfaction ;  but  we  had  also  to  suffer  greatly 
for  our  scientifical  zeal,  for  the  sun's  rays,  which  in  Louisi- 
ana possess  unusual  strength,  poured  down  upon  us  with  such 
fierceness,  that  we  were  literally  nearly  roasted.  To  increase 
our  uncomfortable  circumstances,  our  stock  of  wine  was 
exhausted  on  the  first  day  of  our  travel,  and  the  water,  which 
we  could  find  from  time  to  time,  was  so  full  of  impurity, 
that,  thirsty  as  we  were,  we  could  scarcely  force  ourselves 
to  drink  it.  We  knew  not,  besides,  which  way  to  direct  our 
course ;  so  in  our  necessity  we  concluded  to  rest  for  awhile 
under  the  shade  of  some  trees  that  spread  out  their  cano- 
pying branches  most  invitingly,  and  despatched  Martin, 

(5) 


6          AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

Carleton's  servant,  and  a  true-born  Acadian,  in  search  of 
news.  He  assured  us  before  his  departure,  that  it  would 
not  be  long  until  he  would  return  with  tidings,  or  at  all 
events  he  could  not  go  far  until  he  should  find  a  plantation. 
We  remained  for  a  full  hour  on  the  same  spot,  waiting  for 
his  return,  during  which  time  the  air  grew  every  moment 
more  sultry  and  oppressive.  At  length  my  companion  lost 
all  patience. 

"  Where  can  the  fellow  be  wandering  ?  Call  him  back  at 
once  !"  he  cried,  as  he  handed  me  his  hunting-horn. 

"  I  am  not  able  to  blow  it  myself ;  my  tongue  cleaves  to 
the  roof  of  my  mouth  with  heat  and  thirst." 

I  took  the  horn  at  his  bidding,  and  placing  it  to  my 
lips,  blew  a  strong  blast.  But  it  gave  not  forth  the  clear 
ringing  tones  that  we  had  been  accustomed  to  hear — the 
sound  was  short  and  muffled,  as  though  the  air  had  lost  all 
its  elasticity,  and  returned  instead  of  sending  it  forward. 
The  place  where  we  halted  was  on  the  border  of  a  pine 
forest — many  of  which  are  found  in  the  United  States, 
stretching  far  and  wide  in  all  the  glory  of  primeval  exten- 
sion. The  grass  upon  which  we  stretched  ourselves,  was 
fully  five  feet  high,  and  of  a  most  brilliant  green.  On  our 
right  was  a  thicket  of  palm  bushes,  which  was  broken  by  a 
creek  or  inlet,  on  whose  banks  grew  lofty  cypresses,  clothed 
in  their  own  peculiar  gloomy  but  magnificent  grandeur.  On 
the  other  side,  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  but  an  illimitable 
extent  of  prairie,  with  here  and  there  impenetrable  thickets  of 
shrubbery,  or  detached  and  solitary  groups  of  trees.  This 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.  7 

was  the  rich,  wide  landscape,  on  which,  scarce  an  hour  before, 
our  eyes  had  rested  with  infinite  delight ;  but  now  a  sudden 
and  wonderful  change  had  come  over  it.  Our  scope  of 
.  vision  had  become  gradually  more  circumscribed,  as  though 
the  dark  blue  clouds  that  at  first  were  seen  bordering  the. 
distance,  but  were  now  rolling  rapidly  towards  us,  envied 
the  pleasure  bestowed  on  us  by  the  prospect.  The  wind 
drove  them  fiercely  across  the  wild  prairie,  and  the  nearer 
they  approached  the  more  were  we  aware  of  their  density 
and  oppressive  influence.  The  sun  was  no  longer  able  to 
blind  us  by  the  splendor  of  his  rays ;  we  turned  our  eyes 
fearlessly  towards  him,  and  then  he  appeared,  both  in  size  and 
colour,  like  the  full  moon.  The  outline  of  the  forest  became 
invisible  through  the  thick  veil  of  blue  cloud  that  slowly 
shrouded  it ;  and  the  air,  that  in  the  morning  was  elastic  and 
invigorating,  was  each  moment  becoming  too  oppressive  for 
respiration. 

We  were  at  a  loss  to  conjecture  the  cause  of  this  singular 
and  rather  alarming  phenomenon ;  and  as  I  looked  towards 
my  companion  to  ascertain  how  he  was  affected  by  it,  our 
eyes  met,  and  betrayed  by  looks,  while  yet  we  spoke  no 
word,  that  perplexed  anxiety  which  man  cannot  control 
when  surrounded  by  new  and  unaccountable  danger. 

"  Fire  your  gun,"  said  I  at  last  to  Carleton;  but  even  as 
I  spoke  I  started  at  the  sound  of  my  own  altered  voice.  The 
lock  was  pressed,  but  the  sound  was  choked  in  the  thicken- 
ing atmosphere — so  nearly  lost  that  the  water-fowl,  rest- 
ing on  the  bosom  of  the  creek  scarcely  an  hundred  yards 


8          AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

distant  from  our  halting-place,  were  not  startled  at  the  re- 
port. 

"  Do  look  at  our  horses,"  cried  Carleton;  "I  believe  they 
are  about  to  break  away  !"  And,  in  fact,  the  animals  had 
become  very  unruly ;  they  pointed  their  ears,  looked  affright- 
edly  to  the  side  from  whence  came  the  smoke  and  heat,  and 
prancing  and  bounding,  seemed  determined  to  break  loose 
from  the  trees  to  which  we  had  bound  them.  A  short  time 
ago  they  were  ready  to  give  over  from  fatigue — now  they 
were  full  of  fire  and  impatience. 

"  We  dare  not  stay  here  any  longer,"  said  Carleton ; 
"  the  horses  warn  us  of  danger  by  their  restlessness — let  us 
be  off,  for  led  by  their  instinct,  they  will  bear  us  to  a  place 
of  security." 

No  other  word  was  spoken.  We  unloosed  the  animals 
and  mounted.  Hardly  were  we  seated  in  our  saddles,  before 
they  struck  into  a  flying  gallop — swift  as  though  a  troop  of 
wolfs  were  at  their  heels,  directing  their  speed  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  creek,  which,  as  it  flowed  towards  its  outlet, 
grew  broader  and  broader.  An  awful  stillness  rested  on  the 
wilderness,  prairie,  and  all  around,  broken  only  at  intervals 
by  the  scream  of  some  wild  bird  or  beast — each  one  of  which 
added  but  to  increase  the  horrors  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded. 

"  What  can  this  mean  ?"  cried  Carleton.  "  I  am  fainting 
with  the  heat,  yet  not  a  drop  of  moisture  passes  from  my 
skin.  These  horrors  are  incomprehensible.  For  heaven's 
sake  give  another  blast  of  the  horn !" 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.  9 

I  endeavoured  to  obey  his  bidding,  but  the  effort  was  not 
attended  with  success.  It  seemed  as  though  the  sound, 
instead  of  issuing  through  the  instrument  as  I  intended, 
was  pressed  backwards  to  my  own  lips. 

"For  Heaven's  sake,  look  yonder!"  cried  Carleton,  as 
he  pointed  towards  a  particular  part  of  the  horizon,  over 
which,  until  now,  instead  of  the  blue  haze  by  which  the 
rest  was  veiled,  had  been  covered  a  dark  leaden-colored 
cloud.  I  turned  my  eyes  in  the  demonstrated  direction — 
the  heavens  were  glowing  with  a  ruddy  light,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  distant  crackling,  like  continued  firing  from  a 
file  of  musketry,  was  heard,  ceasing  at  intervals,  but  after 
each  becoming  more  distinct.  Our  horses  pranced  and 
reared  as  though  seized  with  sudden  madness,  and,  almost 
spurning  control,  rushed  wildly  towards  the  stream,  into 
which  it  required  the  greatest  effort  of  strength  on  the  part 
of  myself  and  companion  to  prevent  them  from  plunging. 
The  red  stripe  on  the  horizon  grew  redder,  rolling  fearfully 
onwards,  until  it  seemed  nearly  to  encircle  our  heads ;  the 
crackling  and  hissing  were  more  violent.  In  silence, 
Carleton  and  myself  gazed  on  the  awful  spectacle ;  then  all 
at  once  a  fearful,  a  horrible  thought  rushed  through  the 
brain  of  each — terror  loosed  our  tongues  at  the  same  instant, 
and  we  exclaimed,  as  out  of  the  same  mouth,  "  The  prairie 
is  on  fire !" 

Scarcely  were  these  words  uttered,  when  a  loud  rustling 
and  trampling  just  behind  caused  us  to  turn  away  for  a 
moment  from  the  fearful  sight,  to  discover  what  new  danger 


10        AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

lurked  in  the  rear.  A  herd  of  fallow  deer,  startled  from 
their  coverts,  had  broken  a  path  through  the  thicket  of 
undergrowth  already  described,  and  rushing  wildly  towards 
the  creek,  plunged,  as  if  despairingly,  among  its  turbid 
waters,  until  only  their  heads  were  visible  above  the  surface. 
There  they  stood,  the  poor  animals  scarce  fifty  steps  distant 
from  us,  panting  and  trembling  in  the  flood,  turning  their 
gentle  and  eloquent  eyes  upon  us,  as  if  entreating  from  man, 
their  dreaded  foe,  the  help  which  nature  denied  them  from 
asking  by  words. 

We  turned  our  eyes  once  more  to  the  fearful  point, 
whence,  for  a  moment  or  two,  they  had  been  diverted. 
Nearer  and  more  near  came  the  fiery  column;  soon  its 
forked  light  was  seen  through  the  dense  cloud  of  smoke ; 
soon  its  flaming  tongue  licked  up  the  herbage  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth — devouring  all  in  its  course,  until  it  reached 
the  thicket  of  palm  bushes  already  described  as  being  in  our 
neighborhood.  The  smoke  blew  backward ;  the  fiery  con- 
queror appeared  in  full  view,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  whole 
prairie  presented  the  spectacle  of  a  sea  of  flame.  Our  eyes, 
nearly  blinded  by  the  smoke,  pained  and  smarted  from  its 
influence,  and  so  great  had  the  heat  become,  that  we  dreaded 
to  see  our  clothes  take  fire  every  minute.  Our  horses  were 
no  longer  to  be  restrained  by  bit  or  bridle,  but  spite  of  all 
our  strength,  bore  us  towards  the  creek,  and  bounded  over 
the  bank,  down  even  into  the  water.  Hardly  had  we  time 
to  congratulate  ourselves  on  the  successful  issue  of  our  head- 
long leap,  ere  a  new  source  of  anxiety  presented  itself,  in 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         11 

the  shape  of  a  huge  she  bear,  who,  with  her  young  ones, 
crept  out  of  the  reeds  a  short  distance  from  us.  Almost  at 
the  same  moment  a  second  herd  of  fallow  deer  rushed  from 
the  thicket,  and  instinctively  sought  the  protecting  shelter 
of  the  waters,  not  twenty  steps  distant  from  us.  We 
pointed  our  guns  towards  the  bear ;  she  marked  the  move- 
ment, and  moved  slowly  away,  approaching  quite  close  to 
the  herd,  which,  unalarmed  by  her  vicinity,  remained  un- 
moved in  their  first  position.  The  common  danger  had 
conquered  the  natural  fear  of  the  one — and  the  natural  fero- 
city of  the  other; — bears  and  deer,  separated  by  the  space 
of  scarcely  ten  steps,  took  as  little  notice  of  each  other  as 
though  they  belonged  to  the  same  race, — neither  of  them 
dreaded  man,  their  natural  enemy,  although  so  near  them ; 
his  power  had  sunk  into  nothing  in  the  presence  of  the  de- 
vouring conqueror,  who  was  spreading  devastation  with 
unsparing  hand !  And  now  every  moment  our  creek  became 
the  refuge  of  flying  animals ;  deer,  foxes,  and  wild  horses 
came  in  troops  to  seek  an  asylum  in  its  protecting  waters — 
a  refuge  from  the  raging  flame.  We  remained  immovable, 
gazing  on  the  imposing  sight  without  uttering  a  word,  when 
suddenly  the  barking  of  a  dog  fell  upon  our  ears. 

"  Hurrah  !"  cried  Carleton,  overjoyed  now  in  proportion 
as  he  had  been  dispirited ;  "  men  are  in  the  neighborhood  !" 
A  salvo  from  at  least  a  dozen  of  guns  was  the  answer  to 
our  repeated  shouts.  The  guns  were  certainly  fired  within 
two  hundred  yards  from  us,  yet  we  could  not  discern  the 
hunters  by  whom  they  were  discharged.  The  wild  animals, 


12         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

that  had  until  now  stood  quietly  in  the  water,  trembled  at 
this  report  of  new  danger,  but  yet  ventured  not  to  leave  the 
only  spot  where  safety  was  to  be  found.  We  ourselves  were 
standing  up  to  our  hips  in  the  water,  for,  in  consequence  of 
the  great  heat,  we  had  dismounted. 

"  Who  goes  there  ?"  we  again  shouted.  A  second  volley 
was  the  answer,  and  this  time  evidently  much  nearer.  We 
saw  the  flash  of  the  pan,  and  heard  the  voices  of  men 
speaking  in  a  barbarous  dialect  of  half  French,  half  Indian, 
and  we  at  once  conjectured  it  must  be  a  party  of  Acadian 
hunters  who  were  approaching  us.  They  fired  a  third  salvo, 
and  this  time  the  bullets  whizzed  quite  close  to  our  heads. 
The  thing  now  began  to  look  serious — bullets  are  very  good 
things,  but  they  can  come  too  near. 

"  Hold  on  !"  we  cried,  "keep  back  your  fire,  or  else  look 
before  you  shoot !"  A  short  silence  ensued,  which  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  peal  of  wild  laughter. 

"Fire — fire!"  shouted  many  wild  voices  at  once. 

"  Just  as  you  please !"  answered  I,  at  the  top  of  my  voice; 
"  but  do  not  forget  that  we  are  armed  too.  One  shot  from 
you,  and  he  by  whose  hand  it  is  sped  shall  at  once  be 
stretched  on  the  earth — fire,  then,  at  your  peril!" 

"What's  that?"  growled  one  rough  voice.  "Who  is  it 
that  comes  here  to  make  laws  for  us  ?  Down  with  the  dogs ! 
Fire  upon  them,  boys  !" 

"  Yet  once,"  I  rejoined,  "  in  the  name  of  humanity  let 
me  warn  and  entreat  you — " 

"Forwards,"  cried  another.     "Shoot  them   down,  the 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.          13 

dogs — the  spies !  What  business  have  they  here  searching 
the  prairies.7' 

"Your  blood  then  be  upon  your  own  head,"  was  my  an- 
swer, as  Carleton  and  myself  directed  our  loaded  guns  to- 
wards the  spot  whence  the  last  volley  had  proceeded.  Nearly 
at  the  same  time  another  voice  was  heard  close  beside  us — 

"  Halt ! — what  is  going  on  here  ?" 

"  Stop  that  firing,  or  else  you  are  dead  men,"  cried  many 
others. 

"These  are  Americans,"  grumbled  the  Acadian  troop 
among  themselves." 

"Mr.  Carleton,  are  you  there?"  shouted  a  familiar  voice. 

"  That  I  am,"  answered  my  friend. 

A  boat  now  issued  from  the  cloud  of  smoke  that  rested 
on  the  bosom  of  the  creek,  and  rowing  swiftly  down  the 
stream,  placed  itself  between  us  and  the  Acadian  troop. 
Carleton's  servant  was  among  the  rowers ; — in  the  next 
minute  we  found  ourselves  encompassed  by  a  group  of  men, 
consisting  of  half  a  dozen  of  Americans*  and  twenty  Aca- 
dians.  This  latter  party,  it  seemed,  as  soon  as  they  saw 
the  prairie  on  fire,  had  entered  their  boat  and  come  to  the 
spot  where  we  had  taken  refuge,  to  shoot  and  hunt.  And 
the  plan  was  a  sagacious  one.  The  animals,  who,  like  our- 
selves, had  fled  to  the  water  for  protection,  were  fairly 
imprisoned  in  the  corner  made  by  the  angle  of  the  creek,  as 
all  escape  was  cut  off  by  the  burning  prairie  that  enclosed 
it,  and  forbidding  all  progress  or  return.  They,  therefore, 

*  Yankees. 


14         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

fell  an  easy  prey  to  their  pursuers.  These  men,  more  than 
half  savages,  killed  the  poor  creatures  with  a  brutality,  and 
in  such  numbers,  as  to  awaken  the  liveliest  abhorrence  of  my 
friend  and  myself,  which  feeling  was  fully  shared  by  the 
Yankees  to  whose  timely  coming  it  was  most  likely  we  owed 
our  lives. 

"Now,  strangers,"  said  one  of  the  latter,  a  grave  elderly 
man,  "  will  you  join  in  with  this  party,  or  go  with  us  ?" 

"I  met  these  gentlemen,"  interrupted  Martin,  "and  when 
they  heard  that  we  had  lost  our  way  and  exhausted  our 
provision,  they  were  so  kind  as  to  leave  their  own  way,  and 
come  hither  with  me  to  seek  you." 

"  I  guess  you  ain't  much  used  to  the  prairies,"  continued 
the  men  who  had  before  spoken. 

"  If  you  will  accept  such  hospitality  as  we  Yankees  can 
show  you  in  such  a  wilderness,  I  am  sure  I  will  give  you  a 
hearty  welcome." 

"I  accept  your  invitation  most  thankfully,"  was  my  re- 
ply, at  the  same  time  making  a  movement  towards  the  boat. 
It  was  most  desirable  we  should  leave  the  spot  as  soon  as 
possible,  for  the  heat  and  smoke  were  unbearable.  The 
Yankee  made  no  answer,  neither  uttered  any  remark  for  a 
time  :  his  attention  being  entirely  taken  up  in  watching  the 
Acadians  as  they  pursued  their  inhuman  sport. 

"  They  are  far  worse  than  the  Indians,"  he  at  last  said, 
addressing  a  young  man  who  stood  near  him. 

"  They  will  shoot  more  just  now  in  one  hour  than  they 
will  be  able  to  devour  in  a  year,  in  spite  of  all  their  gluttony." 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         15 

"  How  would  it  be  if  we  were  to  turn  upon  them  and  hurl 
them  to  the  devil  ?"  answered  the  young  man. 

"No, no, "returned the  old  Yankee,  "that  would  not  do — 
the  country  belongs  to  them — it  is  my  notion  it  would  not 
be  right." 

This  colloquy  was  carried  on  between  them  with  the  most 
admirable  coolness,  and  in  circumstances  in  which  none  but 
a  Yankee  would  have  dared  to  waste  time  with  words.  A 
prairie  twenty  miles  long  and  ten  broad,  covered  in  raging 
flames,  which  every  moment  approached  nearer,  and  in 
some  places  already  reached  the  shore  of  the  creek  in  whose 
waters  we  were  seeking  the  only  shelter  to  be  hoped  for 
from  its  fury.  On  the  opposite  side  were  some  dozens  of 
wild  Acadians,  who  amused  themselves  in  firing  from  right 
to  left  without  troubling  themselves  in  the  least  whether  the 
bullets  failed  of  their  aim,  or  found  it  in  our  bodies  or  that 
of  trie  beasts  that  were  congregated  around  us.  Carleton 
and  myself  stood  in  the  water  until  it  reached  up  to  our 
waists,  and  notwithstanding  that  they  were  exposed  to  the 
same  danger  as  ourselves,  these  imperturbable  Yankees  chat- 
ted as  coolly  with  each  other  as  if  seated  in  quiet  beneath 
the  roof  of  their  own  cabins,  giving  no  thought  to,  or  els« 
aiming  to  show  their  disregard  of,  the  uncomfortable  cir- 
cumstances in  which  we  all  were  placed.  At  last  I  lost  all 
patience. 

"  Is  your  dwelling  far  from  here  ?"  at  length  I  asked,  in 
a  tone  sufficiently  indicative  of  the  feeling. 

"  Not  so  far  as  I  sometimes  wish  it  was,"  answered  the 


16         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

old  man,  as  he  bestowed  a  scornful  glance  at  the  half  savage 
hunters  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream.  "  Not  so  far  as 
I  would  like,  but  far  enough  for  you  to  get  a  good  appetite 
for  your  supper  before  you  reach  it ;"  and  with  these  words 
he  helped  Carleton  and  myself  into  the  boat,  on  whose  floor- 
ing we  laid  ourselves  down,  and  so  completely  exhausted  by 
the  heat  and  fatigue,  that  for  a  time  we  were  insensible  to 
all  that  passed  around  us.  It  was  not  long  however  until 
we  recovered  from  the  swoon  into  which  we  had  fallen ;  we 
raised  our  eyes,  and  saw  the  old  Yankee  standing  beside  us 
with  a  flask  of  brandy  in  his  hand,  of  which  he  invited  us 
to  drink.  Worn  out  and  half  famished  as  we  were,  his  offer 
was  most  gratefully  received;  we  swallowed  a  few  mouthfuls 
of  the  invigorating  fluid,  and  felt  ourselves  so  strengthened, 
that  in  a  short  time  we  raised  ourselves  from  our  recumbent 
position,  and  began  to  look  about.  The  prospect  was  limited 
and  dreary;  before  us  we  saw  a  seemingly  interminable 
swamp  covered  with  huge  cypress  trees  ;  behind  us  lay  the 
creek  veiled  in  a  thick  cloud  of  smoke.  From  time  to  time 
a  column  of  fire  would  burst  forth  through  the  dark  canopy, 
and  as  it  threw  forth  its  fearfully  illuminating  glare,  it  seemed 
as  if  those  giant  trees  were  springing  from  a  sea  of  fire. 

"  Forwards,  my  men,  forwards !"  said  the  old  man  as  we 
left  the  boat ;  "  the  sun  is  getting  low,  and  we  have  yet  a 
long  way  to  travel !" 

"And  in  what  direction,  I  pray  you,  does  our  way  lie?" 
"  It  leads  right  through  that  swamp,  when  you  don't  want 
to  go  round,"  was  the  answer. 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.          17 

"  The  shortest  way  is  the  best !"  tacitly  rejoined  Carleton. 

"  The  shortest  way  is  the  best !"  repeated  the  old  man, 
with  somewhat  of  a  sneer  ;  "  that  I  call  a  speech  just  worthy 
of  an  Englishman  !  But,  in  this  case,  I  am  myself  of  your 
opinion,  and  at  all  times  I  hold  one  way  to  be  as  good  as 
another.  James  !"  he  continued,  turning  to  the  young  man 
we  have  before  mentioned  as  his  companion,  "  do  you  go 
further  down  through  the  Snake-swamp.  We  will  try  our 
luck  here." 

"And  our  horses?"  inquired  I. 

"  They  must  remain  where  they  are.  We  will  have  rain 
to-night,  and  to-morrow  morning  they  can  be  led  over  the 
prairie  without  singing  a  hair,  or  scorching  their  hoofs." 

In  my  explorations  I  had  more  than  once  found  myself 
on  the  borders  of  the  swamp  before  us,  but  had  ever  con- 
sidered it  utterly  impassable.  And  now,  as  I  looked  down 
into  its  dark  depths-,  I  could  not  comprehend  how  it  was  to 
be  traversed. 

"  Does  any  beaten  path  or  road  lead  over  this  swamp  ?" 
inquired  I  of  the  old  Yankee. 

"  Path  !  road  !  do  you  suppose  this  is  a  pleasure  garden  ? 
No  indeed, — there  is  no  path  here  but  that  which  nature 
has  made."  And,  as  he  spoke,  he  sprang  upon  the  huge 
trunk  of  a  fallen  tree  that,  covered  with  moss  and  weeds, 
was  lying  bridge-like  upon  the  black  mud  that  covered  the 
ground. 

"  What,  cross  here  ?     We  would  rather  go  back  to  our 

2 


18         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

horses,"  said  I  in  answer,  "  and  ride  over  the  prairie  in  the 
morning  to  our  homes." 

"  You  can  do  as  you  like,"  rejoined  the  Yankee,  with  the 
greatest  coolness,  "  but  we  are  going  through  the  swamp. 
Only  it  seems  to  me  that  you  will  be  likely  to  fast  for  the 
next  twenty-four  hours,  unless  you  choose  to  fare  like  the 
horses,  and  like  them  have  a  preference  for  herbs  and  grass." 

"  Why  so,"  I  asked  ;  "  are  there  not  game  and  wild  fowl 
in  plenty  on  the  prairie  ?" 

"  Without  doubt,"  was  the  rejoinder,  "  if  you  can  eat 
them  without  cooking,  like  the  Indians.'' 

I  had  not  from  the  first  been  particularly  pleased  with  the 
companionship  into  which  I  had  fallen,  but  now  I  began  to 
feel  uneasy ;  there  was  something,  as  I  thought,  suspicious 
about  them.  The  old  man,  who  was  the  mouth-piece  of  the 
party,  had  almost  reached  his  sixtieth  year,  was  nearly  six 
feet  in  height,  very  lean,  but  uncommonly  muscular  and 
strongly  built.  His  features  were  sharp  and  keen ;  his  eye 
piercing,  like  that  of  a  falcon ;  and  his  whole  demeanor  strongly 
indicative  of  self-love  in  great  degree,  as  well  as  contempt 
of  others.  His  dress  consisted  of  a  jacket  of  untanned  deer- 
skin, which  was  belted  round  him  with  a  rude  girdle ;  his 
nether  limbs  were  cased  in  leathern  breeches,  and  his  head 
crowned  with  a  straw  hat  without  a  rim.  His  companions 
were  clothed  much  in  the  same  manner,  and  all  of  them 
were  armed  with  long  knives. 

"  What  has  become  of  Martin  ?"  asked  Carleton,  as  he 
looked  around  in  search  of  his  servant. 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         19 

"Do  you  mean  the  young  knave  that  directed  us  to 
you?" 

"  The  same." 

The  old  Yankee  pointed  with  his  hand  to  the  cloud  of 
smoke  that  rested  on  the  creek,  completely  hiding  the  spot 
we  had  left : 

"  He  is  there  with  his  countrymen.  I  think  their  devil's 
hunt  is  at  an  end ;  at  least  I  do  not  hear  them  shooting  any 
longer." 

"I  would  rather  he  were  here,"  answered  Carleton;  "but 
can  you  tell  me,  where  are  our  horses  ?" 

"  They  are  safe ;  Joel  is  with  them,  and  as  soon  as  the 
fire  has  spent  itself,  he  will  bring  them  over  the  prairie  to 
us.  You  do  not  believe  that  we — your  horses " 

The  old  man  interrupted  himself,  but  I  could  not  help 
observing  that  a  malicious  smile  played  round  his  lips,  even 
after  he  had  ceased  to  speak. 

"  We  will  go  with  you,  old  man,"  replied  I,  "  and  trust 
ourselves  implicitly  to  your  guidance." 

"  In  that  you  do  well,"  was  the  laconic  answer.  "  Jona- 
than,'7 he  continued,  addressing  one  of  his  comrades,  "  where 
are  the  torches  ?  We  will  have  need  of  them." 

(t  Torches  !'?  I  repeated,  in  astonishment  at  the  idea  of 
using  torches  in  day-light. 

The  old  man  turned  his  sinister  features  upon  me  with  a 
look  that  expressed,  as  clearly  as  could  have  been  done  by 
words,  "  Why  must  you  meddle  in  every  thing  ?"  but  he 
answered,  as  was  his  wont,  coldly,  and  with  that  hateful  smile : 


20        AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

"  Yes,  torches ;  for  if  you  had  ten  lives,  -which  is  one 
more  than  a  cat  has,  you  would  lose  them  all,  if  you  would 
venture  to  pass  through  that  swamp  without  them." 

He  struck  fire  from  the  flint  of  his  gun,  even  as  he  spoke, 
and  having  kindled  the  tinder,  with  which  he  was  well  pro- 
vided, he  applied  it  to  the  bundles  of  dry  pine  splinters, 
which  they  brought  him  already  tied  up  in  flambeau  fashion ; 
and  in  a  moment  they  were  ignited,  casting  a  brilliant  light 
on  the  dreary  scene  that  lay  around  us. 

All  this  was  done  with  such  deliberate  movements,  that, 
in  spite  of  the  dangers  by  which  we  were  surrounded,  I 
could  not  suppress  a  smile  at  the  seeming  apathy,  but  most 
probably  self-possession,  of  this  wild  woodsman,  who,  inured 
to  hardship  and  danger,  and  accustomed  to  look  death  in  the 
face  daily,  knew  not  what  it  was  to  shrink  in  the  hour  of 
peril. 

In  the  meantime  the  boat,  containing  two  men  belonging 
to  the  party,  pushed  off  from  the  shore,  leaving  Carleton 
and  myself,  with  the  old  Yankee  and  some  of  the  younger  of 
these  backwoodsmen,  standing  on  the  border  of  the  swamp, 
ready  to  begin  our  dangerous  march  across  it. 

"  Follow  me  now,  closely,  step  for  step,— just  as  if  you 
were  walking  on  eggs,"  said  our  incomprehensible  old  leader  ; 
u  and  you,  Jonathan,  keep  a  watchful  eye  upon  the  strangers ; 
be  on  the  look-out,  lest  they  souse  into  the  mud  over  their 
ears  before  we  are  able  to  draw  them  out." 

We  were  not  particularly  encouraged  by  this  admonition 
to  Jonathan,  but  we  summoned  up  all  our  resolution,  and 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         21 

followed  the  old  man  as  he  desired.  We  had  not  advanced 
far  into  the  murky  recess  ere  we  were  made  aware  of  its 
baneful  influence,  and  the  indispensable  need  of  our  torches- 
The  slender  trunks  of  the  cypress  trees,  that  stood  generally 
about  five  yards  distant  from  each  other,  were  nearly  fifty 
feet  in  height,  and  without  branches  except  at  the  extreme 
top ;  but  there,  covered  with  spiky  foliage,  they  shot  out  in 
all  directions,  canopying  all  beneath  so  closely,  that  we  felt 
as  though  we  were  overshadowed,  by  a  gigantic  umbrella, 
and  the  whole  morass  covered  with  a  roofing  of  leaves, 
through  which  a  single  ray  of  light  could  not  penetrate. 
As,  after  a  five  minutes'  progress,  we  turned  to  survey  the 
way  we  came,  we  saw  the  daylight  we  had  left  behind, 
through  an  opening  like  that  to  be  observed  at  the  entrance 
of  a  tunnel  or  cave.  And  the  farther  we  advanced,  the  atmos- 
phere became  thicker  and  more  oppressive,  and  the  vapour 
so  pestilential  and  suffocating,  that  our  torches  burned  but 
very  dimly,  and  more  than  once  threatened  to  go  out  alto- 
gether. 

"Yes,  yes,"  growled  the  old  Yankee  to  himself,  "I  under- 
stand it;  one  night's  sojourn  in  this  swamp  would  give  a  man 
an  ague  likely  to  last  him  all  his  life.  One  single  hour's 
breathing  of  its  vapour  would  be  enough  if  the  pores  were 
open.  But  now  there  is  no  danger — the  roasting  we  got 
from  the  prairie  fire  has  dried  up  the  sweat,  and  fairly 
stopped  the  pores." 

This  speech  was  not  addressed  to  any  one ;  and  as  he  thus 
involuntarily  uttered  his  thoughts  aloud,  rather  than  intending 


22        AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

to  make  them  known,  he  strode  stoutly  forward,  advancing 
his  torch  before  him  so  as  to  illuminate  every  fallen  trunk 
or  moss  covered  log  that  lay  in  the  way,  carefully  and  with 
outstretched  foot  testing  the  stability  of  each  before  he 
ventured  his  full  weight  upon  it.  All  this  was  done  with  a 
quickness  and  dexterity  which  evinced  an  intimate  acquain- 
tance with  the  dangerous  path  we  were  pursuing. 

"Keep  yourselves  as  close  to  me  as  possible,"  said  he, 
addressing  us,  "  and  tread  lightly,  aye,  as  lightly  as  it  is 
possible  for  an  Englishman  to  do.  And,  above  all,  keep  your 
mouths  shut,  or  else — ha,  what  the  devil  is  that  ?  Halloo, 
old  fellow,"  he  said,  relapsing  once  more  into  soliloquy, 
"  what  has  got  into  you  that  you  cannot  tell  the  difference 
between  a  fallen  trunk  and  a  sixteen  foot  alligator." 

He  had  stretched  out  his  leg,  and  was  about  to  place  his 
foot  on  what  seemed,  from  the  dark  colour,  to  be  a  lately 
fallen  tree,  when  the  thought  struck  him  it  would  be  best 
to  try  it  first  with  the  barrel  of  his  gun.  The  supposed 
trunk  made  a  sudden  movement,  and  the  old  man,  starting 
back  with  one  quite  -as  sudden,  nearly  precipitated  me  into 
the  swamp. 

"Aha,  my  black  prince  !"  said  he,  his  equanimity  not  in 
the  least  disturbed  by  thought  of  the  perilous  step  he  had 
so  nearly  taken,  "you  thought  to  take  in  honest  people  by 
your  tricks  and  deviltry — but  you  can't  do  it." 

"What  is  the  matter?"  said  I. 

"  Not  much,"  said  he,  coolly ;  "nothing but  an  alligator." 

He  drew  his  knife  from  its  sheath  as  he  spoke. 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         23 

"  Look,  there  he  is." 

And  instead  of  a  log,  as  he  advanced  his  torch  a  little 
forward,  I  saw  indeed  into  the  yawning  throat  of  a  huge 
alligator.  In  an  instant  I  levelled  my  loaded  gun,  and  was 
about  to  press  the  lock  to  fire  straight  into  the  open  mouth, 
but  our  experienced  conductor  laid  his  hand  upon  my  arm. 

"You  must  not  dare  to  shoot,"  said  he,  in  a  whisper; 
"  you  cannot  fire  off  a  gun  here  without  the  greatest  danger. 
We  are  not  alone  here.  The  thing  must  be  done  as  silent 
as  possible." 

And  stooping  as  he  concluded,  he  plunged  his  long  knife 
straight  in  the  eye  of  the  monster.  A  howl  of  mingled  rage 
and  pain  attested  the  success  of  the  blow  given  by  our  Yan- 
kee friend ;  and  rolling  from  side  to  side  in  his  last  agony, 
the  dying  alligator  sprinkled  us  from  head  to  foot  with  the 
black  mud  of  the  swamp. 

"Aha,  does  that  tell?"  cried  the  old  man,  as  with  grim 
laughter  he  repeated  the  blows.  "  Take  that,  and  that,  and 
that,  and  at  each  repetition  he  drove  his  long  knife  into  some 
vulnerable  part  between  the  neck  and  ribs.  The  howling  now 
became  fearful — the  animal  writhed  and  twisted  from  side  to 
side,  and  with  unavailing  rage  opened  his  huge  jaws  and 
snapped  at  his  enemy,  who  paid  not  the  slightest  attention8 
to  his  movements,  but  having  coolly  wiped  his  knife,  restored 
it  to  its  sheath,  which  hung  from  his  girdle,  and  looked 
round  with  sharp  and  searching  glance  indeed,  but  as  com- 
posedly as  if  he  had  not  killed  an  alligator. 

"  I  think  there  must  be  a  fallen  trunk  somewhere  in  thia 


24         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

quarter — this  is  not  the  first  time  I  have  come  over  the 
swamp  in  this  direction.  Ah,  yes — there  it  is,  but  good  six 
feet  distant." 

And  so  speaking,  he  made  the  adventurous  spring  with  all 
the  agility  of  youth,  and  happily  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
desired  log. 

"  Take  care  what  you  are  about !"  I  called  out  to  him. 
"  There  is  water — I  see  it  shining." 

"  Pah  !  water  indeed  ! — what  you  call  water  is  snakes. 
But  come — now  jump  over.'7 

I  was  horrified — a  cold  shudder  ran  over  my  whole  frame. 
The  leap  itself,  in  regard  to  distance,  was  not  so  very 
dreadful,  but  the  idea  of  its  failure,  and  to  be  taken  over 
seemingly  a  bottomless  abyss,  filled  with  peculent  mud  and 
poisonous  reptiles,  would  have  startled  a  stouter  heart  than 
mine.  But  necessity  compelled  me  to  the  trial,  and  gave 
me  strength  for  the  effort.  So,  pressing  my  left  foot  against 
the  log  on  which  we  had  hitherto  been  standing,  and  which, 
by  our  weight,  was  every  moment  settling  deeper  in  the 
morass,  I  sprang  over  and  reached  the  next  log  in  safety. 
Carleton  followed,  and  achieved  the  leap  as  successfully  as 


"  Bravo  !  bravo  !"  cried  the  old  man ;  "a  few  more  such 
leaps  and  the  worst  part  of  the  way  is  left  behind." 

We  proceeded  forward  slowly  but  without  interruption, 
never  placing  foot  upon  a  seeming  log  without  first  trying 
its  quality  with  our  gun  barrels,  lest  we  might  find  ourselves 
on  a  moving  bridge,  instead  of  a  solid  trunk  of  cypress. 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         25 

The  swamp  extended  fully  five  miles  from  the  bank  of  the 
creek  we  had  left.  It  was  a  bottomless  sea  of  soft  black 
mud,  and  overgrown  with  moss  and  creeping  plants,  that 
spread  their  luxuriant  but  treacherous  covering  over  the 
whole  surface  as  if  to  hide  the  deformity  they  could  not 
change,  and  spreading  over  the  cypress  trunks  themselves 
until  the  very  bark  was  hidden  in  their  profusion.  Those 
logs  over  which  our  adventures  lay,  serving  for  a  path  or 
bridge  over  the  slimy  flood,  were  not  laid  with  any  special 
regularity,  but  did  not,  on  that  account,  seem  the  less  to 
have  been  placed  there  by  the  hand  of  man. 

"  It  is  probable  that  at  one  time  this  was  a  regular  path," 
said  I,  addressing  our  uncourteous  guide.. 

"Be  quiet,"  said  he,  in  a  low  voice ;  r"  be  quiet  I  tell 
you,  and  utter  not  a  word  until  we  are  on  firm  ground. 
You  need  not  mind  the  snakes,"  he  continued,  as  he  saw  me 
gazing  at  the  disgusting  reptiles,  which  the  torch  he  held 
made  plainly  visible,  lying  in  our  near  neighborhood,  coiled 
up  in  the  moss  or  crawling  on  the  surface.  "  Follow  closely 
on  my  track." 

I  prepared  to  obey,  but  just  as  I  had  stretched  out  my 
foot  to  place  it  in  the  track  of  my  leader,  I  perceived  the 
open  jaws  of  an  alligator  just  above  the  edge  of  the  log  on 
which  we  were  treading,  not  six  inches  from  my  leg.  The 
horrible  reptile  snapped  at  me  so  suddenly  that,  forgetful 
of  the  caution  impressed  by  our  leader,  and  impelled  by  the 
principle  of  self-defence,  I  fired  my  gun,  lodging  the  shot  in 
his  basilisk  glancing  eye.  The  monster  sunk  back  at  once, 


26         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

uttering  loud  cries  of  pain,  and  after  beating  about  for  a 
moment  or  two  in  the  soft  mud,  vanished  beneath  its  sur- 
face. The  old  Yankee  turned  himself  fairly  round  upon 
me  as  I  fired,  and  an  approving  smile  played  round  his 
mouth,  and  muttered  a  few  words,  which  I  could  not  under-  ( 
stand,  for  the  infernal  clamor  that  now  arose  on  all  sides ' 
almost  bewildered  my  senses,  and  deafened  my  ears. 
Thousands  of  birds  and  screaming  animals — alligators,  buf- 
faloes, frogs,  herons,  &c., — all  the  creatures  that  inhabited 
this  wide  morass,  or  dwelt  in  the  branches  of  its  cypress 
covering,  now  lifted  up  their  voices  at  once,  screaming, 
growling,  and  croaking,  as  if  in  reprobation  of  the  daring 
mortal  who  had  dared  to  disturb  the  boding  silence  that 
seemed  peculiarly  to  belong  to  this  gloomy  spot.  The  alli- 
gators crept  from  their  lurking-places  in  the  mud,  where, 
until  this  moment,  they  were  closely  hidden,  and  thrusting 
their  hideous  noses  above  the  green  covering  of  the  swamp 
to  meet  the  upper  air,  gnashed  with  their  teeth  most  fear- 
fully as  they  crawled  towards  us — while  quite  as  much  dis- 
turbed as  they,  huge  owls  and  other  swamp  birds  circled 
round  our  heads,  showing  their  sense  of  the  intrusion  into 
their  gloomy  domain  by  striking  us  with  both  beak  and 
wing.  We  drew  our  knives,  endeavoring  at  least  to  protect k 
our  eyes ;  but  all  efforts  seemed  useless  against  the  numbers 
that  came  forth  to  battle  with  us.  How  the  strife  would 
have  ended,  it  is  hard  to  tell,  but  suddenly  the  report  of  a 
gun  was  heard — then  a  second — then  a  third — and  more  in 
succession.  The  effect  was  magical — the  change  sudden  as 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         27 

an  electric  shock.  The  threatening  tones  of  these  infu- 
riated denizens  of  the  swamp  sunk  into  low  whinings  and 
wailings — the  birds  retreated  from  the  battle-ground,  to 
which,  a  few  moments  before,  they  had  so  desperately 
flocked ;  the  alligators  sunk  back  into  their  muddy  recesses 
— only  a  few  of  the  most  adventurous  owls,  as  if  ashamed  to 
quit  the  field  at  once,  continued  to  fly  around  our  heads  in 
still  widening  circles ;  the  sounds  ceased  gradually,  until  at 
length  they  died  away  altogether,  and,  alas!  so  did  our 
torches — they  fairly  went  out,  and  left  us  in  utter  dark- 
ness. 

"  In  the  name  of  Heaven,  where  are  you,  old  man  ?"  I 
called  out  to  our  Yankee  friend,  for  I  could  not  see  him. 

"What?  why  I  am  still  alive,"  he  answered,  with  a  burst 
of  wild  laughter  that  sounded  strangely  enough  in  that  fear- 
ful place.  "And  that  other  Englishman — is  he  breathing 
still  ?  Did  I  not  tell  you  we  were  not  alone  in  this  swamp. 
These  creatures  hold  this  for  their  kingdom,  and  fight  like 
fury  when  any  man  invades  it.  A  single  shot  brings  them 
out  all  at  once,  as  you  have  proved ;  but  when  they  hear  a 
number  fired  they  know  you  are  in  earnest,  and  so  run  away 
from  the  battle ; — they  are  silly  things,  these  swamp  ani- 
mals." While  he  was  yet  speaking,  he  busied  himself  with 
his  flint  and  tinder,  and  by  the  time  he  concluded,  a  new 
torch  was  blazing  brightly.  "By  good  luck  the  path  will 
now  be  better,"  he  continued ;  "  come,  we  must  hurry  on- 
wards, there  is  no  time  to  lose ;  the  sun  is  nearly  gone,  and 
we  have  a  good  smart  way  to  travel  yet." 


28         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

Once  more  he  placed  himself  at  the  head  of  his  little 
troop,  and  as  he  strode  stoutly  forward,  he  displayed  a 
coolness  and  circumspection  altogether  uncommon,  -which 
awakened  the  warmest  admiration  on  the  part  of  Carleton 
and  myself.  After  marching  along  in  this  manner  for  half 
an  hour,  we  were  ahle  to  perceive  a  faint  light  glimmering 
in  the  far  distance. 

"Just  five  minutes  more,  and  our  worst  trouble  is  over," 
said  our  old  conductor,  turning  toward  us ;  "  but  it  is  neces- 
sary now  to  be  more  watchful,  if  possible,  than  before — for 
more  alligators  are  lodged  in  the  borders  of  this  swamp  than 
in  the  middle." 

Overjoyed  at  this  intelligence,  and  in  great  haste  to  feel 
myself  once  more  on  solid  ground,  I  did  not  give  sufficient 
heed  to  the  caution  of  the  old  man,  and  as  the  logs  lay 
nearer  to  each  other  at  this  point,  I  dashed  zealously  on- 
ward. I  placed  my  foot  on  one  which,  from  its  not  being 
covered  with  moss,  as  so  many  of  them  were,  I  deemed  of 
the  firmest,  when  I  suddenly  felt  it  move.  I  had  barely 
time  to  shout  out  "Help,"  ere  I  found  myself  plunged  up 
to  the  shoulders  in  the  soft  mud  of  the  swamp,  and  with  the 
pleasant  prospect  of  sinking  yet  deeper. 

"  May  the take  you !"  cried  our  old  Yankee  in  a  tone 

of  vexation,  as  he  bent  himself  lithely  forward,  and  caught 
me  by  the  hair.  "Let  this  serve  as  a  warning,"  he  con- 
tinued, as  he  drew  me  out  of  the  swamp,  and  placed  me 
once  more  on  firm  footing;  "look  sharp,  I  tell  you  once 
more,  and  take  heed  where  you  are  going."  And  indeed 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.          29 

great  caution  was  necessary,  for  I  observed  at  least  half  a 
dozen  snakes  and  alligators  crawling  about  in  the  black 
waters  of  the  bog,  and  in  a  proximity  to  ourselves  that  cer- 
tainly was  anything  but  pleasant.  At  this  moment,  too, 
perhaps  from  the  effect  of  my  muddy  bath,  I  became  sen- 
sible of  a  violent  sickness  at  my  stomach,  so  severe  as  almost 
to  deprive  me  of  the  power  of  speech.  The  old  man  saw 
my  condition,  and  handed  me  his  flask  of  brandy,  which  he 
carried  in  a  side  pocket. 

"  There,  take  a  swallow  or  two,"  said  he ;  "  or  stop,  you 
had  better  wait  until  we  are  out  of  the  swamp,  which  we 
shall  be  in  a  few  minutes.  Just  stand  still  for  a  moment, 
and  your  stomach  will  right  itself; — so  there — that  will  do 
— now  let  us  go  on.  When  you  have  made  four  or  five  such 
journeys  over  this  swamp  with  me,  you  will  be  another 
man ; — so  now — forward !" 

A  few  minutes  more  and  we  felt  ourselves  on  the  firm 
earth,  and  in  view  of  a  wide  field,  over  which  a  pure  and 
refreshing  breeze  was  blowing. 

"Now  let  us  have  a  mouthful  or  two  of  brandy,"  said  our 
leader ;  "  in  half  an  hour  more  we  shall  be  at  the  salt  hill, 
where  we  can  shoot  a  buck.  Halloo  ! — what  is  that  ?" 

"  Tis  a  clap  of  thunder,"  I  replied. 

"A  clap  jof  thunder,  indeed !  I  think  you  have  never 
seen  a  storm  in  Louisiana,  or  you  would  know  the  crack  of 
a  rifle  from  a  peal  of  thunder.  But  they  are  grand  echoes, 
these  here,  in  the  oak  forests.  James  has  shot  off  his  gun 
and  killed  a  dear  already  for  us." 


30         AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA. 

A  second  report  followed.  This  time  I  was  able  to  dis- 
cover it  was  undoubtedly  a  shot  from  a  rifle,  but  the  echoes 
from  that  mighty  forest  repeating  it  a  thousand  times  made 
it  appear  like  the  threatening  of  an  earthquake. 

"  We  know  now  what  to  do  with  ourselves,  since  we  are 
yet  in  our  own  skins,  and  not  in  the  maw  of  an  alligator," 
said  our  old  Yankee,  as  he  fired  his  gun  in  the  air. 

In  half  an  hour  we  found  ourselves  at  the  so-called  salt 
hill,  where  we  found  James  and  Joel,  the  two  sons  of  our 
leader.  They  were  so  busy  in  the  skinning  and  preparing 
of  the  buck  they  had  shot,  that  they  were  not  aware  of  our 
approach  until  we  were  close  beside  them.  We  threw  our- 
selves on  the  grass  at  a  short  space  from  the  spot  where 
they  so  busily  prosecuted  their  task,  not  a  little  wearied  by 
the  fatigue  and  danger  of  our  adventurous  journey.  It  was 
not,  however,  until  after  they  had  disposed  of  the  slaugh- 
tered buck,  according  to  their  rude  sportsman-like  fashion, 
that  the  young  men  bestowed  any  greeting  on  their  father, 
which  they  did  with  the  quiet  indifference  which  character- 
ized all  their  actions. 

"  Would  you  like  to  eat  a  plain  supper  here,  or  will  you 
wait  until  we  get  home  ?"  inquired  the  old  man  with  some 
show  of  courtesy. 

"  How  far  is  it  to  your  settlement  ?" 

"  Full  two  leagues,  you  may  be  sure." 

"Well  then,  we  would  greatly  prefer  to  eat  our  meal  here." 

"  Just  as  you  like,"  was  the  laconic  reply. 

Without  further  loss  of  time  the  hind  quarters  of  the  ani- 


AN  ADVENTURE  IN  LOUISIANA.         31 

mal  were  cut  in  pieces  and  carefully  dressed ;  dry  leaves, 
twigs,  and  decayed  branches  were  gathered  in  a  heap,  and 
soon  a  bright  fire  sent  forth  a  warm  and  ruddy  glow.  The 
meat  was  placed  on  a  wooden  spit  in  a  manner  known  only 
to  backwoodsmen,  and  then  laid  over  the  bright  embers, 
and  turned  by  one  of  the  young  hunters  until  roasted  in  a 
manner  that  could  not  be  surpassed  by  a  fashionable  cook. 
In  another  half  hour  we  sat  down  to  this,  our  primitive  sup- 
per in  the  wilderness ;  and  although  eaten  without  bread, 
vegetables,  or  condiments,  tasted  as  well  as  any  I  ever  ate 
in  my  life. 


mit|r 


ALTHOUGH  thirty  years  ago  there  was  no  regular  European 
settlement  established  on  the  north  coast  of  America,  yet 
ships  touched  there  every  year  for  the  purpose  of  traffic  in 
beads,  pocket  knives,  guns,  powder  and  shot,  which  they 
exchanged  with  the  natives  for  the  costly  peltries  which  be- 
long to  those  colder  climes.  The  ship  in  which  I  served 
as  second  mate  had  been  engaged  in  this  profitable  trade  for 
many  months,  and  had  nearly  advanced  to  the  fiftieth  de- 
gree of  north  latitude,  when  an  Indian,  who  could  speak  a 
little  English,  came  on  board,  and  offered  to  conduct  us  to 
a  point  on  the  coast  where  we  could  obtain  the  skins  of  the 
sea  otter  in  plenty,  and  nearly  for  nothing.  Nothing  doubt- 
ing, we  yielded  ourselves  to  his  guidance,  and  he  therefore 
directed  our  ship's  course  through  a  small  creek,  where  he 
promised  us  a  safe  harborage,  being  protected  from  the 
fierce  sea  winds  by  an  island  that  lay  at  its  mouth.  As 
soon  as  we  had  cast  our  anchor,  we  were  perfectly  assured 
of  our  safety  as  regarded  storms  from  seaward  ;  but  at  the 
same  time  we  observed  that  the  creek  was  very  small,  and 
our  ships  scarcely  an  hundred  yards  distant  from  the  coast, 
and  the  island  inhabited  by  Indians,  completely  exposed  to 
every  attack  those  savages  might  choose  to  make,  and  who, 
(32) 


A  Sea-fight  with  Savages. 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.  88 

as  we  had  heard,  were  not  only  cunning  and  treacherous, 
but  particularly  revengeful  and  cruel.  In  such  circum- 
stances it  may  be  supposed  that  on  our  part  the  greatest 
circumspection  was  necessary.  The  anchor  was  scarcely 
thrown,  and  the  ship  moored,  until  it  was  noticed  that 
our  Indian  guide  had  disappeared.  The  sailors,  who  pre- 
tended they  could  not  pronounce  the  Indian  name  by  which 
he  called  himself,  had  nicknamed  him  Ducker,  because 
whenever  he  heard  a  gun  fired,  he  stooped  or  ducked,  as 
they  termed  it,  so  that  the  shot  might  fly  above  his  head. 
But  after  the  lapse  of  little  more  than  an  hour  he  returned 
with  three  of  his  companions  in  a  boat,  which  was  filled  to 
the  brim  with  the  most  beautiful  furs.  During  our  trading 
with  these  Indians  we  discovered  that,  although  their  wild 
and  brute-shaped  features  were  expressive  only  of  stupidity, 
they  were  cunning,  overreaching,  and  exceedingly  avaricious. 
Notwithstanding  this,  we  were  able  (in  the  course  of  an 
hour)  to  exchange  our  wares  for  a  hundred  skins  of  the  sea 
otter,  and  our  savage  customers  appeared  as  well  satisfied 
with  their  share  of  the  traffic  as  ourselves.  They  declared 
that  if  we  would  only  remain  at  anchor  for  a  few  days 
longer,  we  should  have  six,  yea,  seven  times  as  many,  and 
handsomer  skins.  Our  captain  at  once  consented  to  remain 
in  the  harbor  for  a  time,  induced  to  linger  by  the  hope  of 
gain. 

As  soon  as  this  determination  was  made  known  to  the 
savages,  two  of  them  paddled  off  in  their  canoe  toward  the 
coast,  while  Ducker  and  the  one  they  had  left,  whom  he  called 
3 


34  A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

Russ,  remained  with  us  in  our  ship.  As  we  had  nothing  to 
do  on  board,  we  begged  the  Captain's  permission  to  explore 
the  coast.  The  request  was  granted ;  and  as  myself,  the 
lieutenant,  and  four  sailors,  manned  the  jolly  boat — the 
skipper  himself  resolved  to  make  one  of  our  party.  We 
sailed  merrily,  and  in  a  few  minutes  reached  the  shore, 
which  was  thickly  covered  with  trees,  whose  thick  leaved 
branches  hung  down  so  low  over  the  surface  of  the  water 
until  they  dipped  into  it.  We  landed  beneath  the  pleasant 
shade,  and  then  found  ourselves  in  a  dense  forest,  standing 
in  all  its  primitive  wildness,  and  stretching  over  a  wide 
expanse  of  this  seemingly  uninhabited  land.  No  where  were 
to  be  seen  signs  of  cultivation — no  curling  smoke  arose  above 
the  tree  tops  to  tell  of  human  habitation— rno  path  was  visi- 
ble on  the  forest  moss  to  show  that  the  foot  of  man  had 
ever  passed  there.  After  traversing  the  wood  in  different 
directions,  we  returned  to  our  boat,  and  directed  its  course 
towards  the  island  which  separated  the  bay  from  the  sea. 
Having  once  more  landed,  we  found  the  remains  of  an  In- 
dian encampment  a  short  distance  from  the  beach,  which, 
judging  from  the  appearances  of  many  fire  places,  must  have 
been  occupied  not  long  since.  Our  curiosity  was  awakened ; 
we  searched  carefully  round,  and  soon  found  other  things  that 
filled  us  with  astonishment  and  alarm.  The  first  was  the 
head  of  a  broken  rudder,  which  the  lieutenant  picked  up. 
This  discovery  awakened  a  feeling  which  set  us  all  in  lively 
movement;  and  we  soon  collected  numerous  bits  of  plank 
and  other  broken  pieces  of  wood,  which  had  evidently  been 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.          35 

parts  of  a  ship — all  of  which  bore  the  marks  of  having  been 
burned  in  the  fire,  and  lay  scattered  about  in  all  directions. 
From  all  these  the  iron  had  been  carefully  removed,  the 
very  nails  withdrawn — a  task  which  could  not  have  been 
accomplished  without  much  trouble.  From  what  we  saw  of  t 
this  wood,  we  judged  that  the  stranded  ship,  if  indeed  it 
had  been  stranded,  was  one  of  great  value.  After  searching 
about  for  a  while,  we  returned  to  the  deserted  encampment, 
and  on  a  more  careful  inspection,  found  other  pieces  of  a 
wreck,  which,  from  their  great  weight  and  having  no  iron  in 
their  construction,  had  not  been  burned,  namely,  a  part  of 
the  keel  and  a  large  portion  of  the  body  of  the  ship.  While 
all  around  me  were  busy  with  conjectures  as  to  the  fate  of 
the  ship  and  her  crew,  which  all  we  saw  tended  to  confirm 
as  disastrous,  being  weary  I  withdrew  a  little  apart  from 
the  rest  and  sat  down  on  a  flat  stone  that  lay  near  the  shore. 
My  seat,  however,  was  not  firmly  placed ;  and  as  I  moved  it 
so  as  to  make  it  level,  I  saw  a  broad  piece  of  slate  under  it, 
which  was  written  over  with  characters  distinctly  legible. 
I  read  it,  and,  astonished  at  this  confimation  of  our  fears, 
I  called  to  my  companions,  and  read  the  sorrowful  docu- 
ment, which  some  hand  now  no  more  had  engraved  on  the 
stone  with  a  knife. 

"  The  American  brig,  Sea  Otter,  was  on  the  1st  of  June, 
1799,  decoyed  into  this  bay,  seized  upon  and  broken  up  by 
savages.  The  captain  and  eight  men  were  killed  upon  the 
spot.  The  brig  was  plundered  and  brought  to  the  shore, 
where,  for  the  sake  of  the  iron,  it  was  burnt." 


36  A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH   SAVAGES. 

We  gazed  upon  each  other  with  looks  of  horror. 

"  Decoyed  into  this  bay  !"  the  captain  at  length  repeated 
— "  decoyed  by  savages.  Yes,  yes — I  begin  to  comprehend 
the  whole  thing.  If  we  only  had  a  fair  wind,  or  any  wind 
indeed,  I  would  stand  out  to  sea  at  once." 

"  There  is  no  necessity  for  that,"  answered  the  lieuten- 
ant. "We  have  had  sufficient  warning,  and  being  now 
completely  on  our  guard,  we  will  be  able  to  outwit  the  savage 
rascals.  Besides,  I  believe  Ducker  and  his  friend  have  no 
mind  to  act  treacherously  by  us,  and  the  poor  knaves  are 
too  stupid  to  plot  any  such  enterprise  against  us.  No  doubt 
in  my  mind  but  that  the  Sea  Otter  has  fallen  into  the  power 
of  some  other  tribe.'* 

This  view  of  the  case  was  not  lost  on  the  captain.  He 
had  found  his  trading  with  these  men  of  the  wilderness  so 
very  profitable,  that  he  was  tempted  to  pursue  it  further, 
and  was  sincere  in  his  belief,  that  the  two  Indians  who  had 
brought  us  into  the  bay,  as  well  as  their  savage  brethren, 
were  too  harmless  and  simple  for  us  to  be  in  danger  from 
their  machinations.  If  we  would  only  double  our  watchful- 
ness, and  never  permit  more  than  three  or  four  of  these 
traders  to  come  on  board  at  once,  we  could  certainly  remain 
Borne  days  yet,  and  pursue  the  traffic  without  any  danger. 
This  reasoning  was  conclusive.  We  returned  to  our  ship, 
and  the  captain  having  all  hands  piped  to  the  deck,  made 
them  acquainted  with  our  discovery,  and  enjoined  the 
greatest  caution  and  watchfulness,  as  well  as  the  strictest 
obedience  to  orders.  By  this  time  night  had  come  on,  and 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES  3'< 

we  betook  ourselves  to  rest.  But  sleep  came  not  at  my 
bidding.  I  passed  the  hours  in  an  uneasy  mood — a  boding 
of  evil  hung  over  me,  for  a  hidden  foe  is  the  worst  evil  I 
can  suppose.  But  all  remained  still.  The  two  Indians, 
Ducker  and  Russ,  who  had  received  permission  to  remain 
on  board,  answered  all  our  questions  in  a  most  simple  and 
unembarrassed  manner,  declaring  they  had  never  heard 
aught  of  the  destroyed  ship.  The  night  passed  over,  how- 
ever, without  alarm,  and  the  next  day  in  peace ;  and  as  it 
waned  towards  its  close,  whatever  feelings  of  distrust  might 
have  been  harbored  by  any  of  our  men,  were  fully  put  to 
rest  by  its  quiet  passage. 

I  was  the  only  one  on  board  that  seemed  to  have  any  un- 
easiness, and  I  could  not  conceal  that  I  was  disturbed.  I 
was  particularly  dissatisfied  that  the  two  Indians  were  per- 
mitted to  remain  on  the  deck,  not  only  on  the  first  but 
second  night.  At  midnight,  when  I  turned  out  for  my 
watch,  although  all  was  quiet,  I  was  determined  to  send 
them  off  to  land  ;  but,  in  truth,  I  was  ashamed  to  act  with 
such  seeming  hardness  towards  two  poor  old  unarmed  men 
— it  looked  too  much  like  being  afraid  of  them.  Besides, 
the  stars  shining  forth  so  brightly,  no  canoe  could  approach 
the  ship  without  being  observed  by  myself,  and  I  had  only 
to  call  aloud  and  the  crew  would  be  on  deck  in  an  instant. 
I  therefore  gave  up  my  suspicion  of  lurking  danger — I  even 
forgot  the  two  Indians,  who  lay  sleeping  on  the  deck  behind 
me,  and  yielded  myself  up  to  sweet  waking  dreams  of  my 
country  and  my  home.  The  calm  beauty  of  the  polar  night, 


38  A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH   SAVAGES. 

sparkling  with  the  stars  that  gemmed  its  brow,  the  hush — 
the  quiet  of  all  around,  was  particularly  calculated  to  excite 
a  mood  like  this.  I  gave  myself  up  to  its  absorbing  influ- 
ence— I  thought  of  parents,  and  brothers,  and  gentle 
sisters — I  called  up  the  scenes  of  happy  childhood,  and 
lived  over  again  the  careless  days  of  reckless  youth — all 
passed  over  my  spirit  like  the  shadows  cast  by  a  phantas- 
magoria ;  when  suddenly  a  handkerchief  was  thrust  into  my 
mouth,  so  that  I  was  unable  to  utter  the  slightest  sound, 
and  at  the  same  moment  I  felt  my  arms  imprisoned  by  some 
invisible  hand  from  behind,  as  firmly  as  if  I  were  enclosed 
within  the  grasp  of  a  vice.  I  turned  hastily,  and  as  well 
as  I  could,  and  found  the  villain  Russ  breathing  not  an 
inch  from  my  ear,  while  he  was  fastening  the  knot  of  the 
cord  with  which  the  treacherous  Ducker  had  imprisoned  my 
arms.  All  this  was  done  so  suddenly,  and  with  such  ac- 
complished dexterity,  that  one  second  must  have  sufficed  to 
make  me  a  helpless  prisoner.  I  was  evidently  thus  secured 
in  order  to  prevent  my  calling  on  the  crew  for  help,  for  it 
would  have  been  as  easy  for  my  captors  to  have  killed  me 
on  the  spot ;  wherefore,  as  soon  as  I  was  able  to  think,  I 
inferred  I  owed  my  life  only  to  the  wish  of  Kuss  to  retain 
me  as  his  slave.  From  this  moment  all  impress  of  stupidity 
vanished  from  the  hitherto  stolid  features  of  these  treach- 
erous villains — 1  looked  in  the  face  first  of  one,  and  then  the 
other,  and  the  glance  convinced  me  they  had  all  along 
acted  in  concert.  Whilst  Russ  was  plundering  me  of  my 
weapons,  Ducker  took  up  a  lantern  which  stood  near  me  on 


A   SEA-FIGHT  WITH   SAVAGES,  39 

the  deck,  and  having  lighted  it,  hung  it  for  a  minute  over 
the  taffrail.  His  signal  must  have  been  answered  almost 
immediately,  for  he  extinguished  the  light  as  soon  as  he 
drew  up  the  lantern,  and  walked  quickly  but  with  noiseless! 
step  along  the  deck,  to  overpower  any  of  the  seamen  who 
might  be  found  waking,  or  prevent  any  one  advancing  from 
the  hatchways  where  they  sometimes  rested.  But  none 
appeared — the  anxiety  of  the  preceding  night  and  day  had 
driven  each  one  to  his  hammock,  where  he  slept  as  soundly 
as  if  he  were  to  awake  no  more. 

I  now  expected  that  the  knaves  would  load  the  jolly  boat 
with  all  that  they  could  find,  and  make  off  for  the  shore  as 
soon  as  possible,  for  I  could  not  believe  that  two  men  would 
have  the  hardihood  to  venture  on  such  a  bold  stroke  as  to 
endeavor  to  capture  such  a  ship's  crew  as  ours.  But  in  this 
case  I  reckoned  without  my  host.  Ten  minutes  had  proba- 
bly passed  since  the  instant  in  which  I  felt  myself  a  prisoner, 
and  then,  to  my  surprise  and  alarm,  I  saw  dark  figures 
clambering  up  the  sides  of  the  ship,  until  thirty  in  number 
attained  the  deck.  This  was  done  so  noiselessly,  and  in 
such  perfect  concert,  that  it  was  only  by  the  greatest  atten- 
tion I  could  observe  their  movements  or  their  number,  until 
we  were  fairly  and  inextricably  surrounded.  They  were  all 
armed,  but  variously.  Some  few  had  guns,  others  clubs, 
but  the  greater  number  were  equipped  with  bows  and  arrows. 
As  far  as  I  could  see,  each  savage  carried  a  knife,  and  many 
had  a  hatchet  or  tomahawk. 

To  my  great  regret,  I  saw  three  or  four  of  the  best  armed 


40  A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

take  possession  of  the  steps  leading  to  the  cabin,  and  as 
many  more  station  themselves  beside  the  fore-  hatchway. 
By  these  movements,  all  egress  from  below  was  cut  off,  both 
to  officers  and  crew,  should  any  alarm  arouse  and  bring 
them  to  the  deck.  The  main  and  steerage  hatch  were  used 
every  day,  but  at  night  both  were  fastened  down  and 
covered,  and  as  this  was  a  constant  custom,  not  a  man  on 
board  would  have  thought  of  ascending  by  either  of  those 
steps,  unless  opened  by  some  one  on  deck,  who  would  have 
acquainted  them  with  the  threatened  danger. 

A  quarter  of  an  hour  passed,  in  which,  notwithstanding 
the  active  preparations  made  by  the  savages,  their  move- 
ments were  so  noiseless  you  might  have  heard  a  pin  drop. 
I  closed  my  eyes,  and  endeavored  to  compose  my  thoughts 
for  prayer,  when  my  meditations  were  disturbed  by  hearing 
a  voice  which  I  knew  to  be  the  Captain's,  calling  my  name. 
I  would  have  given  the  world  to  have  been  able  to  warn 
him  of  the  impending  danger,  but  although  I  essayed  to  do 
so,  I  was  not  able  to  utter  a  sound.  At  length  the  unhappy 
man  appeared  in  the  opening.  He  was  only  half  dressed 
and  bare  headed,  for  he  had  risen  from  his  hammock,  and 
had  only  come  on  deck  to  see  the  state  of  things  there,  aa 
was  his  habit  often,  and  I  shudder  even  now  as  in  fancy  1 
recall  the  sound  of  the  blow  that  fell  upon  his  unprotected 
skull.  It  was  like  a  stroke  aimed  at  a  bullock,  and  crushed 
him  on  the  spot.  Nevertheless  his  murderers  were  too 
cautious  to  let  the  body  fall  on  the  deck,  fearing  to  waken 
the  sleepers  below,  and  the  splash  that  followed,  as  they 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.  41 

carefully  lowered  the  body  down  into  the  water,  could  not 
have  met  any  ear  less  painfully  strained  to  listen  for  all 
sounds  than  my  own. 

I  believed  now  it  was  their  plan  to  murder  officers  and 
crew  altogether  as  soon  as  they  should  ascend  to  the  deck. 
But  I  soon  found  out  I  was  in  error.  Instead  of  attacking 
any  man  above,  the  savages  followed  an  entirely  different 
plan.  After  they  had  murdered  the  Captain,  they  closed 
the  hatchway  leading  to  the  cabin,  covered  the  fore  hatch- 
way, and  took  every  precaution,  and  such  as  would  have 
done  credit  to  more  sagacious  heads  than  we  believed  them 
to  possess,  for  securing  the  officers  and  crew  as  prisoners 
inside  the  vessel. 

But  it  was  impossible  to  do  this  in  such  silence  as  had 
hitherto  characterized  their  movements.  The  noise  una- 
voidably made  by  fastening  down  the  hatches  had  awakened 
the  sleepers  below,  and  apparently  brought  all  into  motion. 
I  heard  a  thumping  against  the  cabin  door,  as  well  as  that 
of  the  fore  hatchway,  but  all  was  in  vain ;  the  sagacious 
Russ  had  taken  his  measures  too  carefully  to  have  them 
thus  easily  defeated. 

As  soon  as  the  savages  had  assured  themselves  that  their 
prisoners  were  well  secured  below,  they  approached  me  and 
loosened  the  rope  with  which  my  arms  were  bound,  so  far 
that  I  experienced  considerable  relief;  that  which  impris- 
oned my  feet  they  untied  altogether,  and  removed  the  gag 
from  my  mouth.  They  then  led  me  to  the  door  which  led 
down  into  the  cabin,  and  gave  me  to  understand  by  signs 


42  A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH   SAVAGES. 

that  I  might  speak  to  my  friends  below.  I  did  not  do  so  at 
once,  but  waited  until  I  heard  a  movement  on  the  steps 
which  led  to  the  spot  where  I  stood— I  then  obeyed  the 
bidding  of  my  savage  masters.  • 

"  Master  lieutenant,"  I  cried,  loud  enough  to  be  heard 
through  the  closed-up  hatchway — "master  lieutenant,  is 
that  you?" 

"  Aye,  aye,  it  is  myself,"  was  the  answer ;  "  but  what  in 
the  name  of  heaven  is  going  on  above  there  ?  what  has  hap- 
pened ?" 

"  Be  cautious  what  you  do,"  I  replied ;  "  the  savages  are 
in  possession  of  the  deck,  and  I  am  their  prisoner.  The 
sailors  are  all  in  the  forecastle  below,  and  the  fore  hatchway 
is  strongly  guarded." 

"  We  miss  the  captain,"  was  the  lieutenant's  rejoinder. 
"I  wonder  what  has  become  of  him — have  you  seen  or 
heard  anything  of  him  ?" 

"  Alas,  I  have — the  villains  killed  him  with  the  blow  of 
a  club,  and  threw  the  body  overboard  !"  was  my  painful 
answer. 

A  death-like  silence  now  ensued  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
the  lieutenant  then  spoke  firmly,  yet  in  tones  which  showed 
that  intense  emotion  had  been  but  lately  subdued. 

"It  is  then  my  duty  to  take  the  command  and  determine 
what  is  best  to  be  done,"  he  called  aloud.  "  Be  candid,  my 
friend — are  you  free  ? — durst  you  say  what  you  please  ?" 

"  We  must  be  cautious.  I  was  seized  upon  by  the  two 
savages  that  were  permitted  to  remain  on  deck,"  I  replied, 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.  43 

"  and  am  the  prisoner  of  the  band.  They  bade  me  come 
here  to  speak  with  you,  but  be  careful  how  you  speak — 
I  fear  it  is  but  a  trap,  and  that  many  among  them  under- 
stand all  we  say." 

"  Listen,  then,"  continued  the  lieutenant;  "we  know  each 
other,  and  understand  our  own  interest  without  many  words. 
How  old  are  you  ?" 

"  Full  thirty  years,  sir,  and  very  stout  and  robust." 

"  Well  provided  with  sulphur  and  pills,*  or  only  with 
those  Indian  playthings  that  our  boys  have  been  shown  off 
with  for  pastime  ?" 

"  A  little  sulphur  and  some  pills — a  half  dozen  may  be, 
together  with  the  juggling  implements,  which  are  not  to  be 
despised." 

Our  conversation  was  interrupted  at  this  point  by  the  two 
savages,  who  led  me  back  to  the  spot  on  which  I  had  been 
captured,  where  they  forced  me  to  remain  all  night,  which 
passed  away  without  any  disturbance.  Russ,  the  most  sa- 
gacious of  the  two,  would  not  permit  his  comrade  to  begin 
any  movement  until  the  day  had  broken,  at  which  time  it 
was  evident  he  expected  a  reinforcement.  The  gray  dawn 
rose  on  the  bosom  of  the  ocean,  to  which  I  looked  with 
anxious  eyes  until  the  cold  tint  ripened  into  a  ruddy  glow ; 
and  as  the  sun  rose  from  his  watery  bed  like  a  ball  of  fire, 
a  long,  loud,  and  shrill  whistle  was  sent  forth  from  the  ship, 
which  was  immediately  answered  from  the  shore.  The  for- 
est we  have  already  mentioned  as  extending  to  the  beach, 

*  Powder  and  shot. 


44          A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

seemed  literally  swarming  with  human  beings ;  and  only  a 
few  minutes  elapsed  until  a  number  of  canoes  were  pushed 
off.  They  were  filled  even  to  the  water's  edge  with  sava- 
ges, and  I  was  able  to  count  them  as  they  climbed  up  the 
deck.  I  counted  one  hundred  and  fifty,  and  as  no  more 
men  came  off,  I  concluded  this  was  the  number  of  the  tribe. 

I  was  filled  with  astonishment  at  the  plan  of  proceeding 
adopted  by  these  wild  specimens  of  humanity.  As  soon  as 
it  was  broad  daylight,  all  my  bonds  were  removed,  and  I 
received  permission  to  move  about  the  quarter  deck,  and 
over  the  bloody  spot  where  I  had  seen  so  terrible  a  tragedy 
enacted  on  the  night  before.  The  condition  of  my  mind  can 
be  imagined  when  I  declare,  that  I  passed  up  and  down  over 
the  horrible  attestation  of  man's  cruelty  without  a  feeling 
save  that  of  stolid  indifference.  I  cared  not  for  my  own 
life — I  felt  no  anxiety  to  preserve  it.  I  expected  death, 
and  must  at  this  moment,  to  my  shame,  acknowledge  that 
my  thoughts  were  more  on  the  desire  to  revenge  the  outrage 
we  had  sustained,  than  directed  to  the  state  beyond  the 
grave  or  repentance  for  my  sins.  I  thought  of  them,  but 
with  no  softened  feeling,  for  at  the  same  time  I  envied  my 
comrades  below,  who  had  only  to  place  a  lighted  match  to 
the  powder  magazine,  and  blow  up  the  enemy  with  it  and 
themselves. 

The  sun  had  now  risen  high  in  the  heavens,  and  the  sava~ 
ges  held  many  talks  with  each  other,  discussing,  as  I  was 
able  to  understand,  in  what  manner  it  would  be  best  to 
dispose  of  their  booty — and  they  decided  at  length  in  this 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.          45 

singular  way: — Under  the  direction  of  Ducker,  several 
small  ropes,  which  they  found  in  the  ship's  launch,  were 
thrown  into  the  jolly  boat,  which,  under  a  convoy  of  two  or 
three  canoes,  was  dragged  by  its  cable  to  the  island.  Tying 
the  ropes  together,  they  bound  them  tightly  to  the  trunk  of 
a  tree,  and  fastening  them  at  the  other  end  to  one  of  the 
ship's  timbers,  they  made  the  boat  fly  to  and  from,  towing 
her  by  means  of  the  extended  rope.  That  this  was  a  work 
of  Pucker's  preparation  was  evident,  for  the  ropes  were  just 
long  enough  to  reach  from  the  tree  to  our  vessel,  and  proved 
that  the  distance  had  been  nicely  calculated.  As  soon  as 
this  work  was  done — and  it  was  speedily  and  dexterously 
executed — twenty  or  thirty  of  the  savages  laid  hold  of  the 
ropes  and  pulled  with  all  their  might.  I  now  found  they 
•were  endeavoring  to  draw  the  ship  on  shore ;  but  as  she  lay 
close  and  fast  at  anchor,  they  could  not  effect  the  least 
movement.  They  now  gave  over  the  attempt,  but  it  was 
only  for  a  time,  and  in  order  to  search  for  the  cook's  cleaver, 
with  which  Ducker  knew  he  might  hew  the  anchor  cable  to 
pieces.  They  brought  in  all  but  six  or  eight  canoes,  and  a 
part  of  those  were  paddling  around  the  ship  with  as  much 
confidence  as  though  in  a  secure  haven,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  none  but  friends.  Indeed,  in  all  these  operations  I  could 
not  but  admire  and  wonder  at  the  coolness  with  which  Russ 
issued  his  orders,  and  the  regularity  and  submission  with 
which  they  were  obeyed.  At  last,  in  one  of  the  hiding 
places  of  the  ship's  launch,  an  axe  was  found,  and  the  noise 
of  the  heavy  blows  necessary  to  the  severing  of  the  thick 


46          A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

cable,  acquainted  the  lieutenant  in  his  prison  below  with  the 
work  that  was  going  forward. 

I  was  awaiting  the  result  of  this  movement  with  great 
anxiety,  when  all  at  once  I  was  startled  by  a  noise  resem- 
bling the  clash  of  weapons — it  was  from  the  imprisoned 
crew,  who  made  an  effort,  although  a  vain  one,  to  burst 
open  the  hatchway  which  led  to  the  quarter  deck.  But  if 
this  one  failed,  another  had  been  more  successful — a  fact  of 
which  I  was  made  fully  aware  from  the  howling  and  scream- 
ing that  arose  on  all  sides.  A  volley  had  been  fired  from 
the  cabin  window,  and  all  the  savages  contained  in  two 
canoes  that  had  come  directly  in  the  ship's  line,  eleven  in 
number,  had  tasted  plentifully  of  the  shot.  Three  were 
killed  upon  the  spot,  the  rest  were  mortally  wounded.  My  life 
would  have  been  the  sacrifice  for  this  bold  deed,  had  not  Russ 
interposed  his  authority,  and  commanded  the  savage  who 
had  me  in  his  grasp,  to  let  go  his  hold  in  a  tone  and  man- 
ner which  imposed  instant  obedience.  It  was  evident  that 
Russ  considered  me  as  his  own  property. 

As  soon  as  the  extent  of  injury  was  ascertained  among 
those  dusky  sons  of  the  wilderness,  whoever  could  now  threw 
himself  into  the  remaining  canoes,  or  the  jolly  boat,  in  order 
to  convey  their  killed  or  wounded  brethren  to  the  shore. 
I  watched  all  these  proceedings  from  the  quarter  deck,  and 
was  aware  that  the  lieutenant  was  similarly  engaged  at  the 
cabin  window  below.  The  savages  who  remained  on  shore 
were  too  wily  to  venture  again  within  the  line  of  a  fire  they 
had  found  so  unwholesome  ;  they  were  therefore  forced  to 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH   SAVAGES.  47 

wait  until  the  ship  could  be  turned  from  her  present  posi- 
tion, ere  they  could  bring  help  to  their  friends  on  board 
without  hazarding  their  own  lives  too  rashly.  It  was  there- 
fore a  considerable  time  before  the  wounded  could  be  got 
on  shore,  and  in  the  meantime  the  ship  was  slowly  but 
surely  nearing  the  land.  That  portion  of  the  Indians  who 
remained  on  the  island,  when  they  saw  the  destructive  effect 
of  the  ship's  fire  among  their  companions,  having  no  enemy 
near  on  whom  to  vent  their  anger  or  revenge,  waited  to 
pour  it  forth  on  the  ship  and  her  hapless  crew  when  she  was 
fairly  in  their  power ;  and  in  order  to  shorten  the  time 
which  must  intervene  before  they  could  commence  their 
work  of  murder,  they  used  the  greatest  effort  of  their 
united  strength  to  draw  the  ship  to  land.  The  consequence 
was,  as  they  drew  her  too  hastily  inward,  the  rope  at  last 
gave  way  and  snapped  asunder. 

When  this  took  place,  I  was  leaning  on  the  rudder ; 
Russ,  the  villanous  chief,  was  standing  by  my  side.  The 
ebb  tide  was  flowing  very  strongly,  and  the  ship  was  even 
now  in  the  entrance  of  the  small  strait  between  the  island 
and  the  point  which  fashioned  the  end  of  the  bay,  so  that 
her  course  would  now  naturally  be  directed  towards  the  tree 
to  which  she  had  been  attached  by  the  broken  rope.  Less 
from  intention  than  an  instinctive  impulse,  I  gave  the  ship 
a  move  with  the  rudder, — a  feat  which  my  leaning  position 
enabled  me  to  do  without  suspicion  from  Russ, — and  which, 
instead  of  driving  her  on  shore,  sent  her  back  through  the 
narrow  strait  which  we  had  so  nearly  passed. 


48         A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

I  gave  this  stroke  without  a  hope  of  its  success,  or  a 
thought  of  its  consequences ;  my  motive,  if  indeed  I  had 
any,  was  a  reluctance  to  see  our  goodly  vessel  dashed  to 
pieces  on  the  rocks,  although  I  knew  that  her  destruction 
was,  in  any  case,  inevitable.  Happily  for  me,  Ducker  was 
in  one  of  the  canoes,  and  the  threatened  fire  from  the  cabin 
windows  made  it  rather  a  difficult  matter  for  him  to  follow 
the  ship,  even  if  he  had  seen  and  understood  my  movement. 
But  it  passed  without  his  observation, — he  had  enough  to  do 
to  attend  to  his  wounded  companions  who  had  been  borne 
to  the  shore,  where  they  were  receiving  all  the  attention, 
required  by  their  condition,  or  their  friends  could  bestow. 
This,  therefore,  naturally  drew  off  their  attention  from  the 
movements  on  board,  and  for  five  minutes  left  me  master  of 
the  ship ;  and,  as  I  have  said  before,  Russ  did  not  suspect 
me  of  any  design  ;  I  swayed  the  rudder  once  more,  and  in 
that  short  space  our  craft  was  driven  through  the  little  strait 
and  shot  rapidly  forth  toward  the  open  sea. 

This  unexpected  occurrence  considerably  changed  the 
aspect  of  affairs.  A  gleam  of  hope  once  more  began  to 
illumine  my  soul,  but  yet  it  failed  to  enlighten  me  as  to  any 
definite  purpose,  or  show  me  how  the  present  slight  advan- 
tage might  be  improved.  Although  my  agency  in  the  mat- 
ter had  created  no  suspicion,  the  altered  course  of  the  ship 
had  at  once  awakened  the  savages  on  board  to  a  sense  of 
their  danger.  Filled  with  alarm,  they  ran  up  and  down  on 
the  deck,  and  as  the  ship  drove  onward,  the  half  of  them 
jumped  overboard  and  swam  to  the  island.  I  stood  tremb- 


A   SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.          49 

ling  with  anxiety,  hoping  this  example  would  be  followed  by 
the  rest,  but  not  so  ;  twenty-five  still  remained,  because,  as 
I  afterwards  learned,  they  could  not  swim.  Among  the 
number  was  Russ,  not  detained,  however,  by  the  same  motive 
as  his  followers,  but  a  determination  not  to  be  separated 
from  the  booty  so  nearly  his  own. 

I  looked  at  my  dusky  captors — I  marked  their  sudden 
discomfiture,  and  a  thought  that  the  hour  of  deliverance  was 
come  shot  through  my  brain.  I  sprang  to  the  steps  leading 
to  the  cabin,  and  was  about  to  unclose  the  fastenings  of  the 
hatchway,  in  hopes  of  releasing  my  comrades,  and  making 
ourselves  masters  of  the  vessel,  and  taking  advantage  of  the 
confusion  the  sudden  firing  had  created  among  the  savages, 
but  a  rude  blow,  and  a  glance  at  the  long  knife  whose 
bright  blade  gleamed  in  the  sunlight,  as  brandished  over  my 
head  by  the  hand  of  the  chief,  reminded  me  of  the  necessity 
of  prudence,  and  that  on  presence  of  mind  and  coolness  of 
action,  my  own  life  and  that  of  my  imprisoned  fellows  now 
depended.  Things  indeed  looked  better,  but  had  not  so  far 
succeeded  as  to  admit  of  any  rash  proceeding  on  my  part ; 
and  Russ  was  not  the  man  to  be  easily  over-reached  or  inti- 
fmidated,  as  were  his  savage  brethren,  or  as  I  so  confidently 
supposed.  In  the  meantime  the  ship  had  not  swerved  an 
inch  from  her  obedience  to  the  helm.  As  soon  as  she  had 
passed  the  outside  point  of  the  island,  a  gentle  south  wind 
had  sprung  up,  and  as  this  pressed  her  too  close  on  the  land 
within  the  bond  of  the  bay,  I  again  found  myself  in  a  posi- 
tion to  use  the  rudder  to  advantage.  I  gave  a  stroke  or 
4 


50         A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

two,  and  had  the  happiness  to  see  that  the  same  movement 
that  kept  her  off  the  coast,  also  increased  her  distance  from 
the  island. 

The  ship's  motion  now  became  so  perceptible,  that  it  was 
not  possible  but  that  it  should  be  noticed  by  my  savage 
master — it  was,  and  his  suspicion  was  slightly  aroused. 
He  strode  up  to  me  with  upraised  hand  and  flashing  knife, 
his  whole  manner  proving  that  his  hitherto  kindness  for  me, 
let  it  proceed  from  whatever  motive  it  might,  did  not  at  this 
moment  exist  in  the  same  degree  as  formerly.  As  he  brand- 
ished this  knife  repeatedly,  and  in  the  most  fearful  manner, 
before  my  eyes,  and  significantly  pointed  the  blade  towards 
my  breast,  he  gave  me  very  plainly  to  understand  what 
should  be  my  fate  in  case  I  refused  to  do  his  bidding,  and 
that  I  should  at  once  turn  the  ship's  course  to  the  island. 

Although  I  believed  my  last  hour  to  have  arrived,  I  still 
maintained  presence  of  mind.  I  pointed  to  the  mast,  and 
by  signs  expressed  to  my  savage  master  that  the  ship  was 
not  in  her  usual  trim,  and  I  was  not  able  to  manage  her 
without  help.  The  first  part  of  my  excuse  was  made  suffi- 
ciently intelligible  to  be  understood,  for  it  was  evident  even 
to  him  that  the  yards  and  sails  were  not  in  the  position  in 
which  he  himself  had  been  accustomed  to  see  them.  Russ 
therefore  signed  to  me  to  unloose  a  sail,  showing  besides 
that  himself,  as  well  as  his  followers,  were  ready  to  assist  me 
in  the  work. 

I  surely  need  not  here  remark,  that  this  command  filled 
me  with  rapture.  I  proceeded  at  once  to  work  with  at  least 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH   SAVAGES.  51 

a  dozen  of  wild  hands,  and  setting  them  a  good  example,  in 
a  few  minutes  the  sail  was  set.  I  then  took  another  set 
and  with  their  assistance  unfurled  three  other  sails.  The 
issue  of  these  manoeuvres  were  almost  instantly  apparent, 
for  the  ship,  as  soon  as  we  reached  the  point  from  which  the 
south-east  wind  blew,  and  her  sails  swelled  in  the  light  land 
breeze,  moved  rapidly  on  towards  the  ocean.  Four  sails 
were  now  set,  and  in  a  few  moments  we  had  left  the  island 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  behind. 

In  the  meantime,  the  anxiety  and  impatience  of  the  chief 
and  his  people  increased  in  proportion  as  the  ship  held  on 
her  way.  They  saw  with  horror  and  alarm,  how  each 
minute  increased  the  distance  between  themselves  and  the 
coast,  yet  they  knew  not  how  to  proceed  in  order  to  turn 
the  vessel  towards  the  island  she  was  so  rapidly  leaving. 
My  own  situation,  too,  was  one  which  required  considera- 
tion— I  feared  every  moment  I  should  fall  a  sacrifice  to 
their  revenge.  And,  indeed,  I  am  to  this  moment  con- 
vinced I  only  owed  my  life  to  the  fact  that  the  savages 
knew  not  how  to  manage  the  ship  without  me — but  for  this, 
I  had  been  the  victim  of  the  ruse  I  practised  so  successfully 
upon  them. 

Russ,  however,  still  true  to  himself,  with  three  or  four  of 
his  least  stupid  companions,  began  to  threaten  me  once 
more  with  upraised  knife,  and  showed  me  by  signs  I  should 
turn  the  ship's  head  towards  the  land.  In  order  to  gain 
time,  I  let  them  consult  with  each  other  as  long  as  I  could 
with  safety,  and  then  proceeded  to  show  them  by  signs  how 


52  A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

necessary  it  was  to  tack,  as  sailors  term  it,  in  order  to  reach 
a  desired  point.  I  described  a  wide  circle  on  the  floor  of 
the  deck — pointed  to  the  sails  we  had  set,  and  signified  to 
them  that  it  was  only  by  this  means,  and  going  out  into  the 
open  sea,  that  we  could  turn  the  ship,  and  bring  her  to  the 
shore.  As  I  succeeded  in  making  this  comprehensible  to 
them,  thus  partially  quieting  their  anxiety,  I  resolved  to 
push  my  manoeuvre  yet  further,  and  signified  that  if  another 
sail  was  unfurled,  we  could  then  turn  about  almost  imme- 
diately. The  savages  understood  me,  and  as  this  plan 
seemed  reasonable,  they  assembled  together,  and  consulted 
a  considerable  time,  doubtless  as  to  its  expediency.  Russ 
then  came  up  to  me,  and  signed  that  I  should  show  himself 
and  his  people  how  to  manage  the  remaining  sails.  Of 
course  I  was  not  slow  in  obeying  this  order.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  work  was  accomplished,  and  as  I  descended  to 
the  deck,  the  savages  attested  their  satisfaction  and  their 
joy  by  loud  shoutings.  We  were  now  a  full  mile  from  the 
coast ;  the  tide  was  beginning  to  rise,  and  that  the  ship 
should  overcome  the  power  of  the  stream,  the  wind  being  so 
light,  it  was  necessary  the  jib  must  be  unreefed.  In  this  I 
also  succeeded,  by  making  them  believe  it  was  indispensable 
thus  to  crowd  sail  in  order  to  reach  the  coast,  and  as  they 
were  now  convinced  their  return  depended  entirely  upon 
me,  they  gave  themselves  up  to  implicitly  obey  my  orders. 
They  set  to  work — in  two  minutes  the  jib  stay  was  set,  and 
at  a  sign  from  me  they  began  to  hoist  the  sail. 
At  no  moment  of  my  life  was  I  ever  happier  than  when 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.          53 

this  great  sheet  of  canvas  opened  itself  out  to  meet  the  wind. 
I  believed  now  I  might  listen  to  the  sweet  whispering  of 
hope — the  hope  that  I  might  be  able  to  save  the  lives  of  my 
imprisoned  messmates,  and  rescue  the  ship,  which  every 
sailor  loves  as  his  home,  from  destruction. 

While  such  thoughts  passed  through  my  breast,  filling  it 
with  rapture,  I  was  at  the  same  time  busily  observing  the 
canoes  through  my  glass.  They  were  following  us,  and  were 
now  perhaps  half  a  mile  distant,  when  all  at  once  they  left 
off  rowing,  and  lying  close  together,  seemed  to  hold  council 
with  each  other.  The  fancy  struck  me  that,  from  the 
hoisting  sail  and  the  ship's  bearing  away  towards  the  ocean, 
they  supposed  we  had  become  masters  of  the  vessel  once 
more.  If  this  imagination  were  correct,  I  felt  I  should 
have  gained  much,  could  I  only  act  so  that  this  belief  should 
be  strengthened.  And,  indeed,  I  had  the  means  for  this  at 
hand.  The  savages,  still  obedient  to  my  orders,  were  busy 
fastening  the  ropes  as  I  had  directed  them,  and  this  close 
employment  hindered  them  from  watching  my  movements 
too  accurately.  To  keep  old  Russ  in  a  good  humor,  I  had 
given  him  a  cigar,  and  also  taken  the  liberty  to  light  one  for 
myself.  Our  cannon  on  the  evening  before  had  been  loaded 
with  cartridges,  directed,  and  freed  from  their  covering, 
were  ready  to  be  discharged  against  the  enemy  at  a  mo- 
ment's warning.  I  sprung  towards  the  rudder,  and  gave 
the  wheel  a  strong  turn,  until  I  brought  the  ship  into  a  fair 
line  with  the  canoes — I  then  gave  a  hasty  glance  over  the 
range  of  the  guns,  and  saw  they  were  pointed  in  the  right 


64          A  SEA-FIGFIT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

direction,  and  touching  the  match  with  my  lighted  cigar, 
sprung  back  on  the  wheel,  and  once  more  pressed  down  the 
rudder.  The  report  sounded  long  and  loud  over  the  face 
of  the  waters — a  fearful  outcry  from  among  the  savages  on 
board  followed,  many  of  whom  were  ready  to  throw  them- 
selves overboard,  while  Russ,  storming  up  to  me,  again 
menaced  me  with  his  long  knife.  Had  he  had  the  slightest 
suspicion  that  I  was  the  cause  of  the  uproar  by  firing  the 
shot,  he  would  certainly  in  his  wrath  have  cut  me  down 
where  I  stood,  necessary  as  I  was  to  him  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  ship.  Whatever  was  the  result  of  the  council 
held  by  the  canoes  as  they  lay  together,  it  was  at  once 
broken  up,  for  as  the  grape  shot  whistled  over  their  heads, 
they  at  once  began  to  paddle  vigorously  for  the  shore,  ap- 
parently of  the  opinion  that  we  had  sent  them  this  gentle 
intimation  that  we  were  once  more  masters  of  the  ship,  and 
wished  them  to  keep  at  a  respectful  distance. 

I  had  succeeded  beyond  my  warmest  expectation,  and  I 
now  gave  myself  confidently  to  hope  that  I  should  ultimately 
be  able  to  save,  not  only  my  own  life,  but  the  ship  and  her 
crew.  When  we  were  once  so  far  out  at  sea,  that  the  land 
was  no  longer  visible,  then  my  presence  would  be  so  indis- 
pensable to  the  savages,  that  I  felt  I  should  then  be  the 
conqueror,  holding  the  victory  in  my  own  hands.  The  coast 
was  flat  and  low,  and  a  five  or  six  hours'  sail  would  carry  us 
out  of  sight  of  it  altogether. 

With  great  pleasure  I  now  began  to  discover  the  effect  of 
the  ship's  rolling  on  the  savages;  five  or  six  of  them,  with 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.  55 

the  chief  himself,  began  to  show  symptoms  of  pretty  severe 
sea-sickness.  What  would  I  not  have  given  to  have  had  all 
the  knaves  in  rough  water  ?  The  ship  was  now  about  two 
leagues  distant  from  the  land,  and  objects  on  the  coast  were 
growing  dim  and  indistinct.  Nothing  more  was  to  be  seen 
of  the  canoes,  and  I  therefore  inferred  they  had  given  up 
the  chase.  I  now  believed  the  decisive  moment  had  arrived, 
and  began  to  meditate  in  what  manner  the  blow  should  be 
struck.  Russ  and  his  followers  had,  by  this  time,  become 
clamorous — insisting  that  the  ship  should  be  turned.  The 
strip  of  coast  now  vanishing  until  nought  but  its  dusky  out- 
line was  to  be  seen  ;  the  wide  waste  of  waters  through  which 
we  were  now  rapidly  speeding ;  the  sickness  by  which  they 
were  all  becoming  more  or  less  affected — four  of  the  number 
lying  helpless  on  the  deck;  all  began  to  weigh  upon  and  fill 
them  with  lively  alarm.  The  old  chief,  it  was  evident,  was 
very  sick ;  but  his  determined  spirit,  and  the  dangerous 
situation  in  which  he  now  believed  himself  and  his  compa- 
nions placed,  kept  him  upright.  He  scorned  to  yield  to  such 
a  contemptible  enemy.  I  dared  not  altogether  despise  his 
threatening,  which  every  moment  grew  more  earnest ;  so 
I  was  forced  to  make  a  feint  as  if  I  was  really  going 
to  turn  the  ship's  prow  towards  the  land.  I  called  my  sav- 
age hands  to  assist  me;  and  unreefing  the  main  sail,  I 
pressed  the  ship  fairly  before  the  wind.  We  put  about 
better  than  I  expected ;  and  as  my  dusky  masters  saw  that 
we  were  in  reality  nearing  the  shore,  their  expressions  of 
joy  were  almost  rapturous. 


56  A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

I  could  not  but  remark  that,  from  the  moment  the  ship's  prow 
was  turned  in  the  wished- for  direction,  Russ  and  his  com- 
panions were  much  less  watchful  of  my  movements.  I,  there- 
fore, soon  found  an  opportunity  to  attract  the  lieutenant  to 
the  cabin  window  without  having  been  observed  by  the  sava- 
ges. I  made  him  understand  that  he  should  bring  his  men 
to  the  forepart  of  the  ship,  as  I  noticed  the  savages  care- 
fully avoided  it  on  account  of  its  being  every  now  and  then 
almost  buried  in  the  waves ;  and  at  the  same  time  bade  him 
have  all  things  in  readiness  for  a  decisive  battle.  As  soon 
as  I  was  assured  he  comprehended  the  state  of  affairs  above, 
I  went  to  the  fore-deck,  and  began  busily  to  handle  some 
ropes  that  lay  there,  laying  and  placing  them  as  if  discharg- 
ing some  necessary  duty.  The  single  savage  who  stood  as 
sentry  upon  the  fore-deck,  was  so  really  sea-sick,  that  I  felt 
I  had  but  little  to  fear  from  him,  although  he  was  armed 
with  the  pistol  his  chief  had  taken  from  me. 

The  trap-door  covering  the  hatchway  was  itself  certainly 
very  strong ;  but  it  was  only  fastened  by  a  cramp,  through 
which  was  passed  a  piece  of  iron,  which  held  it  down.  I 
needed  but  to  stoop  and  withdraw  this  iron — one  touch  of 
my  hand  and  the  hatchway  would  be  open,  and  the  sailors 
free.  I  took  advantage  of  a  favorable  moment ;  seemingly 
busy  with  my  ropes,  I  passed  my  hand  over  on  the  trap-door, 
moved  the  cramp,  and  the  opening  was  made.  The  ship's 
crew,  with  the  lieutenant  at  their  head,  rushed  up  on  deck. 
At  the  same  moment  I  seized  upon  the  watching  savage,  tore 
my  pistol  from  his  grasp,  and  felled  him  by  a  ringing  blow 
to  the  earth. 


A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH   SAVAGES.  57 

While  I  was  about  this  business,  I  heard  a  loud  "  hurrah" 
from  the  sailors.  The  lieutenant  called  out,  "  Kevenge  our 
Captain  !"  and  gave  command  to  his  men  to  begin  the  onset. 
I  had  my  Indian  completely  in  my  power ;  and  bringing 
him  close  to  the  mast,  I  bound  him  firmly  to  it  with  a  rope. 
From  his  first  seizure,  the  fellow  made  no  resistance ;  so, 
preparing  my  pistol,  I  left  him  to  his  fate,  and  joined  with 
my  comrades  in  the  battle  that  was  raging.  Ere  I  left  the 
quarter-deck,  I  heard  the  splash  of  many  bodies  as  they  fell 
in  the  water;  then  followed  a  sound  as  proceeding  from 
wild,  heavy  crashing  blows.  No  shot  was  fired  on  either 
side — our  people  only  using  the  pikes  they  had  armed  them- 
selves with  on  the  evening  before  when  confined  below,  and 
which  they  had  not  laid  aside. 

By  the  time  I  reached  the  main  mast,  the  ship  was  once 
more  in  our  power.  More  than  half  of  our  savage  assailants 
had  thrown  themselves  in  the  water ;  those  that  remained 
were  quickly  disposed  of  with  a  stroke  from  a  pike,  or  blow 
on  the  head  from  a  bludgeon,  until  none  were  left  except 
the  old  chief,  who,  at  the  command  of  the  lieutenant,  was 
bound  hand  and  foot  by  the  sailors.  Of  the  living  beings  who 
had  thrown  themselves  overboard,  not  a  trace  was  to  be 
seen — the  sea  had  already  swallowed  up  its  victims.  The 
circling  eddy  had  subsided  into  smoothness;  and  we  were 
already  busy  in  overhauling  our  rigging  and  cleansing  the 
quarter-deck  from  the  blood  that  polluted  it.  We  worked 
as  men  unmoved  by  such  fearful  scenes  were  likely  to  do ; 
and  three  hours  before  'sundown  we  had  restored  all  things 


58          A  SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES. 

on  board  to  their  accustomed  order.  In  the  meantime  we 
had  again  tacked,  and  were  approaching  the  coast.  The 
cannons  were  loaded  and  sails  set,  and  I  was  fairly  at  a  loss 
to  conjecture  what  could  be  the  intention  of  the  lieutenant, 
on  whom  the  command  now  devolved,  in  respect  to  Russ ;  or, 
if  indeed  he  was  going  to  enter  into  the  bay  where  we  had 
anchored  two  days  before.  I  did  not  feel  it  my  place  to 
question  him ;  but  if  I  had,  there  would  have  been  but  little 
time  to  do  so.  As  soon  as  we  were  opposite  the  island,  the 
cannon  vomited  forth  a  shower  of  grape  shot  right  into  the 
bushes  and  trees,  which,  as  we  have  already  said,  reached 
down  to  the  shore.  The  only  answer  to  this  salute,  was  a 
piercing  outcry  from  the  forest,  which  made  the  lieutenant's 
motive  apparent,  and  proved  he  was  not  wrong  in  his 
conjecture  as  to  the  hiding-place  of  our  wily  enemies.  Af- 
ter firing  a  few  more  rounds  of  cartridges,  and  sending  forth 
a  volley  or  two  from  our  muskets  into  the  groups  of  trees 
on  the  mainland  coast,  we  turned  our  vessel's  prow  in  the 
opposite  direction,  and  hastened  to  reach  the  open  sea  while 
daylight  yet  remained.  But  before  we  left  the  bay,  sentence 
was  passed  upon  Russ,  the  treacherous  leader,  that  was 
intended  to  servers  a  warning  to  his  whole  tribe ;  for  there 
could  be  no  doubt  but  that  the  savages  had  been  from  the 
first,  and  now  were,  watching  the  ship  from  the  leafy  covert 
where  they  could  harbour  unobserved. 

The  old  chief,  with  fettered  hands,  and  a  card  fastened 
about  his  neck,  was  made  to  mount  upon  one  of  the  guns ; 
and  at  a  sign  given  by  the  lieutenant,  was  hoisted  up  to  the 


A   SEA-FIGHT  WITH  SAVAGES.          59 

yard-arm.  A  few  minutes  afterwards  the  rope  was  cut, 
and  the  corpse  of  the  old  Indian  tumbled  into  the  waters. 
One  instant  sufficed  for  us  to  see  it  ere  it  vanished  forever 
in  the  depths  of  the  devouring  ocean.  As  the  sun  went 
down,  we  turned  to  look  at  the  spot  so  fraught  with  unex- 
pected adventure  to  ourselves,  but  we  saw  it  not.  Our  ship 
had  sped  rapidly  on  our  way,  and  the  coast  was  already  out 
of  sight. 


"  WHAT  a  glorious  place  to  encamp !"  cried  I  aloud,  as  I 
sprung  from  my  mule  and  stretched  myself  upon  the  earth. 
And  it  certainly  had  all  the  appearance  of  a  spot  belonging 
to  fairy  land,  this  place  which  our  conductor  had  chosen 
for  our  bivouack.  A  gentle  ascent  was  shaded  by  high, 
thick  leaved  mahogany  trees,  the  ground  covered  with  the 
bright,  luxuriant  foliage  peculiar  to  the  tropics,  and  from 
one  of  the  rocks,  that  bounded  this  lovely  valley,  issued  a 
cascade,  that,  gathering  its  waters  into  a  little  brook  below, 
spread  coolness  and  freshness  on  all  around. 

My  friend  Rowley  fully  shared  in  my  rapturous  admira- 
tion of  this  Elysian  spot,  and  foreboded  as  little  as  myself 
how  ruinous  it  was  destined  to  be  to  us  both.  Although  we 
had  truly  often  experienced  the  carelessness  of  our  conduc- 
tor, who,  totally  insensible  to  the  danger  and  unwholesome- 
ness  of  the  climate  himself,  imagined  that  to  us  the  poison- 
ous stings  of  the  musquitoes,  and  the  fever- engendering 
exhalations  of  the  swampy  valleys  of  Mexico,  were  a  matter 
of  like  indifference.  But  at  present  our  halting-place  seemed 
to  be  so  little  dangerous,  so  every  way  desirable,  that  with- 
out making  any  inquiry,  further  than  suited  our  own  conve- 
ence,  we  resolved  to  stop  there. 
(60) 


THE  WATERSPOUT.  61 

It  was  towards  the  close  of  the  year  1824,  and  the  Mexi- 
cans having  broken  loose  from  Spanish  thraldom  a  short 
time  before,  invested  the  country  with  new  interest  to  us 
North  Americans.  Besides  this,  we  had  heard  much  of  the 
uncommon  beauty  of  its  scenery ;  but  in  relation  to  the 
expectation  so  highly  raised,  we  found  ourselves  at  first 
deceived,  for  we  had  reached  the  capitol  city,  without  hav- 
ing seen  any  thing  which  justified  the  extraordinary  reputa- 
tion that  had  found  its  way  to  us.  But  we  needed  only  to 
journey  southward  from  that  point,  to  find  our  highest 
anticipations  not  only  crowned,  but  surpassed.  Groves  of 
palm,  orange,  citron  and  bananas  filled  the  valleys ;  the 
high  gronnds  were  covered  with  mahogany  trees,  and  a  spe- 
cies of  fern,  that  grew  to  the  height  of  middle  sized  trees. 
Nature  here  stood  forth  in  gigantic  proportions  ;  the  moun- 
tains rose  to  an  immense  height — the  whole  country  was 
intersected  by  deep  valleys  or  dells,  the  latter  of  which 
were  often  many  thousand  feet  deep,  and  clothed  with  the 
richest  and  most  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  the  heavens 
were  of  that  clear  deep  blue  which  is  never  seen  elsewhere 
than  within  the  tropics. 

But  this  glorious  clime  is  not  without  its  dangers.  Rep- 
tiles, poisonous  and  troublesome  insects,  and  deadly  fevers, 
make  the  lowlands  uninhabitable  for  eight-  months  in  the 
year ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  there  are  whole  districts  which 
are  exempt  from  these  plagues,  and  whose  natural  charms 
fill  the  traveller  with  rapture. 

The  most  famous  of  these   provinces  is   the  valley  of 


62  THEWATERSPOUT. 

Oaxaca,  in  which  the  district  of  Mistecca  bears  away  the 
palm  of  beauty  from  all  others.  It  was  in  this  fair,  extended 
valley,  being  nearly  three  hundred  miles  long,  that  we  were 
now  travelling.  Through  the  kind  courtesy  of  our  ambas- 
sador, our  journey  through  this  land,  which  as  yet  had  been 
pressed  by  no  feet  save  those  of  the  natives,  was  compara- 
tively easy ;  we  had  letters  of  recommendation  to  all  the 
authorities  in  the  cities  or  villages  that  we  wished  to  visit. 
But  there  were  many  places  where,  for  leagues,  no  houses 
were  to  be  found,  and  as  the  authorities  to  whom  we  were 
thus  to  be  introduced  could  not  call  them  up  by  magic,  we 
were  often  forced  to  sleep  under  the  pure  canopy  of  the 
heavens ;  and  truly,  the  vaulted  arch  of  our  bed-chamber 
was  so  glorious,  that  we  did  not  wish  for  anything  more 
grand. 

We  travelled  with  a  train  of  followers,  and  in  a  manner 
so  luxurious,  that  it  would  have  awakened  the  contempt  of 
our  countrymen  had  they  witnessed  it ;  but  we  deemed  it 
indispensable  to  our  respectability,  to  journey  in  the  same 
way  that  other  travellers  were  used  to  do.  We  formed, 
therefore,  a  tolerably  large  caravan,  for  we  had  ten  horses 
and  mules,  a  guide,  several  muleteers,  one  cook,  and  two 
other  servants. 

Whilst  the  two  last  mentioned  were  busied  in  swinging 
our  hammocks  on  the  lower  branches  of  a  tree — for  in  this 
part  of  Mexico,  on  account  of  the  snakes  and  reptiles  that 
abound,  it  is  not  advisable  to  sleep  on  the  earth, — our  cook 
kindled  a  fire  against  a  wall  of  rock,  and  in  a  few  minutes 


THE   WATERSPOUT.  63 

was  broiling  an  iguana,  that  had  been  shot  the  day  before, 
over  the  coals.  One  would  have  supposed  that  one  glance 
at  the  ugly,  lizard-like  looking  thing  that  he  turned  over 
and  over  as  it  was  roasting,  would  have  been  sufficient  to 
take  away  all  appetite  for  such  a  morsel — but  no  such  thing ; 
we  knew  too  well  by  experience  what  a  dainty  bit  a  broiled 
iguana  is.  We  did  not  therefore  refuse  to  eat — it  tasted 
excellent ;  and,  having  swallowed  a  good  mouthful  from 
our  brandy  bottle,  we  climbed  up  into  our  hammocks,  and 
betook  ourselves  to  rest.  The  Mexicans  stretched  them- 
selves on  the  ground,  the  muleteers  pillowed  their  heads 
upon  their  saddles,  and  masters  and  servants  were  soon 
wrapped  in  deep  sleep. 

It  might  have  been  about  midnight,  when  I  was  awakened 
by  a  feeling  of  oppressiveness  altogether  indescribable,  The 
air,  a  short  time  ago  so  light  and  pure,  seemed  to  have 
changed  into  a  thick  poisonous  mist ;  behind  the  rocks,  in 
front  of  which  we  lay,  dark  clouds,  filled  with  mephitic 
vapor,  were  rolling  in  huge  masses,  and  advanced  with 
threatening  rapidity  towards  the  spot  we  had  chosen  for  our 
resting  place.  Whilst  I  was  yet  struggling  for  breath,  I 
P  felt  a  swarm  of  musquitoes  settle  like  a  thick  cloud  upon  me, 
covering  hands,  face,  neck — in  short,  every  spot  of  my  body, 
which  was  not  doubly  and  trebly  protected  by  clothing,  was 
in  a  moment  pierced  through  by  a  thousand  stings.  Not 
knowing  at  first  what  it  meant,  involuntarily  I  stretched  forth 
my  hand,  to  discover  what  was  the  matter,  and  as  I  closed 
it,  I  imprisoned  hundreds  of  these  hateful  insects  within  its 


64  THE   WATERSPOUT. 

grasp,  crushing  them  to  death.  They  were  a  regular  Egyp- 
tian plague. 

Rowley,  whose  hammock  was  within  ten  steps  of  my  own, 
was  now  making  himself  heard.  I  heard  him  striking  and 
cursing  at  a  rate  that  in  any  other  circumstances  would 
truly  have  been  laughable  ;  but  the  same  thing  was  operat- 
ing too  seriously  on  myself,  to  admit  of  anything  like  mirth 
on  my  part.  The  influence  of  the  poisonous  vapor,  and  the 
pain  arising  from  those  horrible  musquito  bites,  had  thrown 
me  into  a  feverish  state  ;  chills  and  flushes  of  heat  passed 
over  me  alternately,  and  my  head  throbbed  and  glowed. 
We  called  aloud  in  vain;  our  servants  were  sleeping  as 
soundly  as  if  they  never  were  to  awake.  Almost  frantic,  I 
at  last  fired  a  pistol — this  had  the  desired  effect,  for  it 
brought  the  whole  company  to  life.  The  Mexicans  were 
suffering  from  the  baleful  influence  of  the  impure  atmos- 
phere as  much  as  ourselves,  and  they  were  clamorous  in  the 
reproaches  they  heaped  on  our  guide,  who  had  brought  us 
to  such  an  unhealthy  place  to  pass  the  night. 

Rowley  was  found  in  a  worse  predicament  than  myself, 
so  much  so  that  we  dared  not  think  of  setting  forth  at  once, 
as  was  proposed — so  we  were  obliged  to  remain  all  night 
where  we  were.  But  as  the  sun  rose,  to  our  great  joy  we 
discovered  a  company  of  Mexican  merchants  approaching 
our  encampment,  whose  destination  being  the  same  as  our 
own,  resolved  to  join  our  party,  and  kindly  set  themselves 
to  remedy  our  uncomfortable  condition.  After  refreshing 
us  with  some  cooling  cordials  they  had  with  them,  and 


THEWATERSPOUT.  65 

•washed  our  swelled  and  inflamed  visages,  they  rubbed  our 
punctured  skins  with  the  juice  of  some  plants  that  grew  near. 
The  soothing  influence,  almost  immediately  felt,  worked  an 
almost  miraculous  change  in  our  bodily  feelings. 

Although  the  advancing  sun  had  partially  dispersed  the 
unwholesome  vapour,  the  air  was  singularly  hot  and  oppres- 
sive for  such  an  early  hour  of  the  morning,  and  from  time 
to  time  we  heard  the  roll  of  distant  thunder.  We  heard 
the  Mexicans  consulting  among  themselves  about  the  expe- 
diency of  instantly  continuing  their  journey,  to  the  execution 
of  which  measure,  our  deplorable  circumstances  offered  the 
principal  hindrance.  As  we  afterwards  understood,  their 
truly  humane  feelings  forbade  them  leaving  us  in  this  dan- 
gerous district,  so  helpless,  and  dependent  only  on  our  ser- 
vants and  a  guide,  who  had  proved  himself  so  little  to  be 
relied  on.  But  the  imperative  necessity  there  was  for  con- 
tinuing the  journey,  which  they  understood  better  than  our- 
selves, at  length  decided  them,  and  induced  an  old  man, 
who  seemed  the  leader  of  the  party,  to  approach,  and  in- 
quire of  us  if  we  at  all  felt  able  to  proceed,  adding,  that 
from  signs  with  which  they  were  well  acquainted,  they  knew 
a  powerful  storm  was  threatening,  and  that  the  next  human 
habitations  were  many  leagues  distant. 

Our  sufferings  had  been  greatly  alleviated  by  the  means 
of  the  natural  medicaments  they  had  used ;  we  now  felt  only 
weak  and  hungry,  and  seeing  their  anxiety,  as  well  as  being 
convinced  of  the  necessity  for  exertion,  we  assured  him  wo 
would  be  ready  to  set  out  in  half  an  hour,  or  at  least  as  soon 
5 


66  THE  WATERSPOUT. 

as  we  should  have  eaten  something.  They  brought  us, 
therefore,  at  once  a  few  slices  of  broiled  Iguana,  some 
roasted  bananas,  and  a  cocoa-nut  shell  full  of  coffee.  Rowley 
and  myself  betook  ourselves  at  once  to  the  breakfast,  which 
tasted  excellent,  and  during  the  discussion  of  which,  our 
muleteers  and  servants  were  directed  to  busy  themselves  in 
saddling  and  packing  the  animals  under  their  charge.  We 
had  swallowed  but  a  few  mouthfuls,  however,  before  our 
attention  was  attracted  by  a  man  running  at  full  speed, 
holding  a  twig  in  each  hand.  As  soon  as  the  Mexicans  saw 
him,  they  left  whatever  task  they  were  engaged  in,  and 
hastened  to  meet  him. 

"  Seven  hours  !"  exclaimed  the  man. 

"Not  more  than  seven  hours  ?"  screamed  the  mule  drivers, 
in  tone  of  anxiety  and  terror.  "  Holy  Mother  of  God !  we 
want  more  than  ten  hours  to  reach  the  next  village !" 

"What  does  this  mean?"  asked  I  of  Rowley,  as  I  con- 
tinued to  chew  the  savoury  food  with  which  I  had  filled  my 
mouth. 

"I  do  not  know,"  was  the  reply;  "but  most  likely  it  is 
some  one  of  the  nonsensical  notions  with  which  the  heads  of 
this  silly  people  are  full." 

"What  is  the  matter?"  I  again  inquired — but  this  time 
of  a  Mexican — as  I  still  continued  my  mastication  most 
composedly. 

"  In  seven  hours  we  will  have  a  storm  and  waterspout," 
was  the  answer. 

"  In  the  name  of  Heaven  let  us  set  forth !"  cried  the 


THEWATERSPOUT.  67 

Mexicans  with  one  voice,  as  they  extended  the  green  twigs 
the  man  had  brought  towards  us. 

"  What  twigs  are  these  ? — where  did  they  come  from  ?" 
we  asked. 

"From  the  storm  tree,  ever  the  true  prophet  of  a  tern-, 
pest,"  was  the  answer. 

During  this  short  colloquy,  our  mule  drivers  and  servants 
were  running  about  in  the  greatest  confusion,  screaming  at 
the  very  top  of  their  voices:  "Up — up — or  we  are  all 
lost !" 

Everything  by  this  time  had  been  gathered  up  and 
packed — the  animals  were  in  full  readiness  for  the  march — 
and  before  Rowley  and  myself  had  time  to  think,  we  were 
hoisted  into  our  saddles.  Such  a  scene  of  agitation  and 
desperate  haste  I  had  never  witnessed  until  now.  But  in 
spite  of  all  their  confused  efforts  to  effect  a  speedy  depar- 
ture, much  time  was  lost  ere  the  cavalcade  was  ready  to  set 
off  in  irregular  march  over  stock  and  stone. 

The  hurry  and  excitement  of  our  ride  seemed  to  lessen 
our  bodily  ailments,  or  at  least  obliged  us  to  forget  them) 
for  in  a  few  minutes  we  thought  no  more  of  fever  or  mos- 
quito bites.  It  was  a  race  for  life  or  death,  and  our  horses 
dashed  on  as  if  they  too  were  sensible  of  the  threatening 
danger. 

In  the  confusion  of  our  attendants,  they  had  mounted  us 
on  horses,  instead  of  the  mules  we  usually  rode,  and  noble 
animals  they  were.  Their  movements  evinced  no  weariness 
or  effort ;  but  elastic  and  almost  playful,  they  overcame 


68  THE  WATERSPOUT. 

every  obstacle,  and  there  were  many,  that  we  found  in  our 
way.  Over  hill  and  dale,  through  swamp  and  plain,  they 
kept  on  at  a  steady  trot,  but  wherever  the  ground  permitted, 
they  broke  forth  into  full  gallop.  Sure-footed  as  goats,  and 
with  the  agility  of  cats,  they  climbed  the  steep  precipices ; 
like  serpents  they  slid  down  the  descents,  whilst  we,  dread- 
ing no  accident  from  them,  sat  as  comfortably  in  our  roomy 
Spanish  saddles,  as  we  would  have  done  in  a  cushioned  arm 
chair. 

We  progressed  in  this  manner  for  five  or  six  miles,  and 
believed  we  had  outrode  the  danger,  and  so  thought  no 
harm  could  arise  from  allowing  our  horses  five  minutes' 
breathing  time,  for  we  feared  the  hasty  ride,  and  the  rough 
ground  over  which  they  had  sped,  would  exhaust  the  noble 
animals  as  well  as  ourselves.  But  scarcely  had  we  drawn 
bridle  for  this  purpose,  than  the  anxious  cries  of  our  com- 
panions arose  upon  the  air. 

"  Forward ! — in  the  name  of  Heaven,  forward !"  and  with 
renewed  haste  we  held  on  our  flying  march.  With  the  fleet- 
ness  of  the  wind  we  dashed  onwards,  through  thorns  and 
brambles,  the  line  of  our  travel  easily  distinguished  by  the 
evidences  left  behind,  by  the  portions  of  our  clothing  claimed 
by  the  bushes,  on  which  they  remained  hanging  for  many  a 
day.  Rowley  and  myself,  less  anxious  than  the  rest,  were 
the  last  of  the  party ;  nevertheless,  we  used  our  utmost  efforts 
not  to  be  left  behind. 

"  The  flood  !  the  flood !"  was  screamed  forth  by  many 
voices  from  time  to  time.  "  Onward  !  onward  !" 


THE  WATERSPOUT.  69 

"  Nay,  the  devil  take  the  fools,"  cried  Rowley,  in  a  pas- 
sion. "  We  cannot  be  more  than  two  leagues  distant  from 
the  "next  village,  and  the  heavens  give  not  the  least  sign  of 
a  storm  that  I  can  see.  The  air  is,  indeed,  a  little  thicker; 
but  that  is  only  the  vapour  from  the  swamp  that  spreads 
itself  out  there  like  a  sea  before  us.  Just  look  at  the  alli- 
gators— the  lovely  creatures ;  how  wishfully  they  are  eyeing 
our  party.  This  neighborhood  is  none  of  the  pleasantest ; 
but  Heaven  be  praised,  we  have  now  set  foot  on  firm  earth 
once  more." 

The  lovely  scene  that  so  suddenly  met  our  eyes,  and 
called  forth  the  exclamation  at  the  end  of  Rowley's  speech, 
well  merited  more  praise  than  he  bestowed.  On  either  side 
of  the  way  huge  rocks  arose,  on  which  the  glancing  rays  of 
the  sun  were  playing,  illumining  the  luxuriant  growth  with 
which  nature  had  clothed,  not  only  themselves,  but  the  dell 
that  lay  at  their  foot,  and  in  the  lavish  liberality  with  which 
she  had  here  showered  her  gifts,  the  whole  spot  looked  like 
a  garden  in  fairy  land.  Rowley  and  myself  drew  up  our 
horses  to  gaze  upon  this  Elysian  landscape  ;  but  our  Mexican 
friends,  who  seemed  to  have  no  taste  for  the  charms  of  na- 
ture, called  out  once  more  in  tones  of  unmistakable  anxiety, 
"  For  the  mercy  of  heaven,  forward  !  forward !  We  have 
yet  two  leagues  before  ua,  and  in  another  hour  the  flood  will 
be  here  !" 

"Is  the  fellow  altogether  crazy?"  laughed  Rowley. 
"What  is  it  to  us  if  the  gust  does  come?  It  will  not 
drown  us;  and  if  even  our  skins  are  wet  through,  it  will 


70  THE  WATERSPOUT. 

not  be  much  matter.  Our  own  rain  storms  are  no  child's 
play." 

But  almost  as  he  spoke,  a  sudden  change  came  over  the 
face  of  the  heavens  that  caused  an  involuntary  shudder — 
we  were  awed  into  silence.  The  clear  soft  blue  had  van- 
ished, and  a  foul  gray  had  taken  its  place.  The  air,  al- 
though the  sun  was  hidden,  was  sultry  and  more  oppressive 
than  before.  We  gazed  upon  the  black  cloud  as  it  rose 
gradually  above  the  heights  on  our  left  side,  until  it  swept 
forward  and  hung  like  a  curtain  over  the  valley.  On  our 
right  hand  were  now  plainly  to  be  seen  the  roofs  of  the 
houses  belonging  to  the  town  of  Quidricori,  and  apparently 
at  a  very  short  distance. 

"Why  do  we  not  go  at  once  to  Quidricori ?"  I  asked  of 
our  leader;  "it  is  quite  near.'' 

"It  is  more  than  five  miles  off,"  he  replied,  as  he  shook 
his  head,  and  pointed  anxiously  to  the  dark  cloud  that  was 
advancing  in  such  gloomy  grandeur  to  meet  us. 

All  the  animals  seemed  instinctively  to  recognize  the 
coming  danger,  for  with  shrieks  of  terror  the  whole  living 
creation  ran  wildly  about  seeking  a  shelter ;  and  the  most 
timid  denizens  of  the  wood  fled  not  at  our  approach,  for 
they  dreaded  not  man  in  the  presence  of  the  greater  enemy 
who  was  appearing. 

"  Forward  !  in  the  name  of  heaven,  or  we  are  all  lost !"  still 
sounded  forth  from  time  to  time  ;  and  we  stormed  onwards 
heeding  no  hindrance,  let  it  be  what  it  might,  that  came  in 
the  way.  Our  horses  exerted  their  whole  strength,  although 


THE  WATERSPOUT.  71 

we  used  neither  whip  nor  spur  to  impel  them  to  increased 
speed. 

The  ejaculatory  prayers  of  the  Mexicans  were  issued 
forth  without  intermission ;  and  great  terror  was  depicted 
on  every  man's  features.  For  a  few  moments  the  stillness 
of  death  seemed  to  reign  in  place  of  the  hitherto  tumult —  ' 
an  unnatural  silence  ruled  over  all  around.  To  this  followed 
a  long  drawn,  indeterminate,  plaintive  sound,  like  a  sigh 
proceeding  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  It  was  an  omi 
nous  warning :  and  our  Mexicans  understood  it. 

"  Halt !  halt !"  cried  we,  to  our  leader ;  "  we  can  go  no 
further — we  must  seek  a  shelter  from  the  storm." 

"  Onward !  in  the  name  of  heaven,  or  we  are  all  lost !" 
was  the  only  answer. 

"  Thank  heaven!"  cried  I,  rejoiced,  "  the  path  is  growing 
wider ;  we  are  coming  to  a  hill,  and  are  leaving  the  forest, 
where  we  are  more  likely  to  be  killed  by  the  falling  trees 
than  drowned  by  the  rain.  We  are  near  the  village." 

"  Briskly,  briskly  onward,"  shouted  the  Mexican.  "  Holy 
mother  of  God  deliver  us  !" 

And,  in  this  fearful  moment,  well  might  he  call  on 
heaven  for  help.  The  threatening  cloud,  like  some  gigantic 
monster,  shot  forth  fiery  tongues  of  flame  in  all  directions ; 
and  a  peal  of  thunder  followed  that  seemed  to  shake  the 
whole  earth  to  its  foundations.  Then  ensued  a  pause — an 
awful  silence — broken  by  no  sound  save  the  panting  of  our 
horses,  as  under  the  oppressive  influence  of  the  coming  tor- 
nado, they  toiled  up  the  steep  ascents  over  which  our  path 


72  THE  WATER  SPOUT. 

led.  A  second  time  the  dark  cloud  opened,  illumining  all 
around  with  lurid  light,  to  which  the  thunder  succeeded  as 
before.  The  rain  poured  down  as  if  the  flood  gates  of  the 
heavens  were  opened;  and  the  tornado  began  to  rage  in  all 
its  fearful  fury.  The  trees  were  crashing  and  falling  in  all 
directions ;  and  a  cloud  of  dust  and  flying  leaves  prevented 
our  seeing  an  inch  before  us. 

"May  heaven  be  gracious  to  us,  Rowley!"  cried  I. 
"  Where  are  you  ?" 

No  answer  followed. 

"What  has  become  of  you  all?" 

Another  blast  of  the  hurricane,  more  powerful  than  the 
first,  ensued  that  prevented  all  further  question  or  answer. 
By  heaven,  the  earth  under  us  is  moving !  The  whole  hill, 
whose  side  we  are  ascending,  seems  to  tumble  and  slide. 
The  air  is  filled  by  a  suffocating  vapour  of  sulphur  and 
saltpetre ;  all  around  us  is  dark  as  midnight;  and  no  sound 
is  to  be  heard  save  the  howling  of  the  tempest  and  the 
crashing  of  the  falling  trees. 

All  at  once  the  storm  appeared  to  cease,  and  a  deep  and 
ominous  silence  reigned ;  but  the  sudden  change  was  fearful 
and  unnatural.  Now  followed  an  explosion  like  the  report 
of  a  pistol ;  then  a  second,  a  third,  then  many  thousands  in 
quick  succession.  This  is  the  flood — the  shots  are  the  rain 
drops — every  one  of  which  are  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg. 
They  fell  with  the  force  of  a  shower  of  hail,  blinding  and 
bewildering  us.  But  one  moment  more,  and  they  are  not 
to  be  distinguished  the  one  from  the  other :  it  is  a  water- 
spout that  is  falling  from  the  heavens. 


THE  WATERSPOUT.  73 

The  hill  on  which  Rowley  and  myself  found  ourselves, 
now  completely  soaked  with  the  rain,  began  to  give  way 
under  our  feet.  It  slid  from  its  place,  and  in  an  instant  we 
found  ourselves  in  a  narrow  ravine  under  the  precipice, 
which,  filled  with  water,  was  changed  into  a  rolling  stream. 
My  horse  had  vanished  from  under  me.  I  looked  around, 
and  near  me  saw  Rowley,  who  had  also  lost  his  horse,  and 
was  striving  with  the  flood.  We  were  breast  high  in  the 
water,  and  the  uprooted  trees  that  the  flood  was  hurling 
past  us,  threatened  every  moment  to  crush  us  to  death.  By 
every  means  in  our  power  we  struggled  to  escape  the  im- 
pending danger.  We  strove  to  climb  the  steep  sides  of  the 
ravine,  but  all  our  efforts  were  in  vain.  We  could  not 
attain  our  object  without  help  ;  but  where,  in  such  an  ex- 
tremity as  this,  was  help  to  come  from?  Of  our  Mexican 
friends  we  saw  and  heard  nothing.  Without  doubt  the 
earth  had  opened  and  swallowed  them  up,  or  else  they  were 
lost  in  the  wildly  rolling  torrent.  We  could  hope  no  better 
for  ourselves,  for  our  strength  was  fast  diminishing,  and 
each  moment  the  water  rose  higher  and  higher. 

"Rowley  !"  cried  I,  "all  is  over.  Let  us  die  like  men! 
God  be  merciful  to  our  souls."  My  friend  was  standing  on 
a  spot  a  few  steps  higher  up.  He  made  me  no  answer,  but 
gazed  upon  me  with  a  quiet  smile.  It  seemed  one  of  calm 
submission.  Then,  as  if  all  his  former  firmness  had  returned, 
he  folded  his  arms  over  his  breast,  and  looked  around  as 
though  he  was  bidding  the  world  farewell.  The  stream 
rose  higher  on  his  person ;  it  rolled  more  wildly,  as  if  at  that 


74  THE  WATERSPOUT. 

moment  to  tear  him  from  me,  when  he  suddenly  shouted 
forth  a  loud  "  hurra,"  and  exerted  his  strength  anew  to  gain 
a  firm  footing. 

"  Hold  on !  hold  on !"  was  screamed  forth  from  many  voices, 
so  far  above  us  that  they  seemed  to  come  from  the  clouds. 
Something  dangled  from  the  height,  and  whirled  past  me, 
striking  me  in  the  face.  With  the  instinct  of  a  drowning  man 
I  seized  the  lasso  they  had  thrown  me ;  Rowley,  who  had  been 
swept  quite  close  to  me,  did  the  same ;  the  strap  was  stoutly 
drawn,  and  by  its  help  we  reached  the  border  of  the  ravine 
in  safety.  There  many  hands  were  stretched  forth  to  aid 
our  deliverance.  One  more  powerful  exertion  on  our  own 
parts,  and  we  stood  on  the  firm  earth.  Completely  exhausted 
we  sank  down  on  the  ground  in  the  midst  of  our  friends  and 
servants,  who  had  found  shelter  from  the  storm  in  a  cavern. 
At  the  same  moment  that  the  soft  earth  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  had  given  way  beneath  Rowley  and  myself,  they  had 
reached  the  summit,  and  thus  secured  their  own  safety ;  and 
as  they  missed  us  there,  they  hastened,  as  soon  as  the  vio- 
lence of  the  storm  permitted,  to  our  deliverance.  One  mo- 
ment longer,  and  they  would  have  been  too  late.  The  fury 
of  the  tempest  was  soon  over,  but  the  track  of  the  tornado 
was  plainly  visible  in  the  devastation  it  had  left  behind. 
After  a  short  rest  we  resumed  our  march,  and  ere  long 
reached  the  desired  village. 


*  It  Inn 


ON  the  coast  of  Africa,  nearly  under  the  seventh  degree 
of  south  latitude,  and  divided  from  the  main  land  only  by  a 
channel  a  few  miles  wide,  is  found  the  little  island  of  Zanzi- 
bar. The  many  ledges  of  rocks  between  it  and  the  coast 
fashion  a  safe  and  accessible  harbor,  where  ships  can  enter 
in  safety,  and  ride  secure  from  the  storm  and  wind.  Al- 
though the  climate  of  the  island  is  very  unhealthy  for  Eu- 
ropeans, the  soil  is  extremely  fertile,  and  nowhere  is  pro- 
vision to  be  found  so  good  and  cheap  as  here. 

For  many  centuries  Zanzibar  has  been  the  principal  mart 
for  the  slave  trade.  The  great  profit  arising  from  this  scan- 
dalous traffic  in  human  flesh  has  induced  many  from  abroad 
to  settle  in  the  towns  and  villages  of  the  island.  Most, 
therefore,  of  this  motley  population  are  from  Arabia ; 
they  go  up  the  country  annually  for  the  purpose  of  catching 
negroes,  and  when  threatened  with  danger  find  it  an  easy 
matter  to  retreat  to  this  spot  with  their  hapless  captives. 
The  inhabitants  of  Zanzibar,  however,  do  not  make  war 
themselves,  but  have  entered  into  contract  with  some  of  the 
subdued  tribes  of  the  interior,  who  are  obliged  to  give  up 
all  the  prisoners  taken  in  battle  to  the  government.  Thus 
the  slave  trade  has  become  so  profitable  to  all  who  partake  in 

(75) 


76  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

it,  that  the  negroes  themselves,  recognizing  no  ties  of  kin- 
dred, will  sell  the  members  of  their  own  families  to  the 
slave  dealers ;  and  also  induce  many  tribes  to  engage  in 
bloody  warfare  with  each  other  for  the  sake  of  making  pris- 
oners, so  that  they  may  exchange  them  to  their  whiter,  but 
not  less  savage  brethren  for  rum,  trinkets,  knives,  or  other 
implements  of  destruction. 

Not  only  did  hereditary  feuds  furnish  a  pretext  for  carry- 
ing out  their  cruel  plans  for  gain,  but  these  inhuman  allies 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Zanzibar  made  inroads  annually  into 
the  up  countries,  where  they  made  aggressive  war  on  the 
more  helpless  tribes  that  inhabited  that  region.  Numerous 
and  well  armed  as  they  were,  they  never  returned  without 
bringing  a  considerable  band  of  prisoners,  and  not  unfre- 
quently  the  supply  exceeded  the  demand. 

Since  the  English  ships  had  begun  to  take  the  matter  in 
hand,  and  yet  more  particularly  since  France  had  joined  in 
league  with  England  in  the  resolution  to  check,  if  unable  to 
put  an  entire  stop  to  the  slave  trade,  great  hindrance  had 
been  thrown  in  the  way  of  the  slave  dealers  by  the  cruisers 
that  were  constantly  hovering  off  the  coast,  or  traversing 
those  southern  seas.  A  more  than  usual  degree  of  caution 
now  became  necessary  to  be  observed  by  the  slavers ;  and 
in  proportion  as  the  despicable  trade  grew  dangerous  to 
them,  so  it  failed  to  bring  in  the  former  glittering  receipts 
to  the  purveyors.  In  such  circumstances  it  could  not  but 
follow  that  the  prosperity  brought  by  the  money  and  arti- 
cles of  exchange  of  the  Europeans,  and  which  had  found 


THE   SLAVE   SHIP.  77 

their  way  even  into  the  remote  districts  of  Africa,  must  ma- 
terially decrease.  In  Zanzibar,  especially,  the  anxiety  on 
this  account  was  great ;  but  greater  still  was  the  joy  exhib- 
ited when  one  of  the  well-known  slave  ships,  having  escaped 
the  cruisers,  would  show  her  trim  spars  and  white  sails 
above  the  distant  horizon. 

It  was  in  the  year  eighteen  hundred  and  twenty-nine,  on 
a  clear  November  night,  whose  brightness,  illumining  both 
coast  and  bay,  and  shedding  its  mellow  radiance  far  to  sea- 
ward, making  every  object  distinguishable  as  by  the  light  of 
day,  that  the  warder  of  the  Zanzibar  watch-tower,  as  he 
looked  over  the  smooth  waters  of  the  now  quiet  ocean,  dis- 
cerned a  sail  in  the  distant  offing.  The  French  and  English 
squadron  had  on  that  morning  given  chase  to  a  suspicious 
looking  craft,  and  driven  her  northward,  but  the  ship  now 
in  view  was  looming  from  the  south.  Unquestionably  she 
was  a  friend.  The  nearer  she  came,  the  more  they  were 
convinced ;  her  trim  build  and  high  and  slender  masts  were 
easily  distinguished  from  the  heavier  cruizers.  Soon  all 
doubt  was  at  an  end ;  it  was  a  craft  well  known  in  Zanzibar 
— the  slave  ship  which  its  owner  had  aptly  named  "  Satan." 
Of  the  purveyors,  she  was  particularly  the  favorite  of  all 
the  vessels  that  came  into  the  harbor,  for  owing  to  the  in- 
ventive genius  of  her  supercargo,  Gaitar,  she  was  so  skilfully 
built,  that  she  could  be  made  to  hold  more  blacks  between 
her  decks,  small  as  she  looked,  than  any  other  of  the  East 
India  ships.  On  this  account,  Gaitar,  whose  cruelty  towards 
the  slaves  he  purchased  was  become  proverbial,  was  held  in 


78  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

especial  regard  by  the  people  of  Zanzibar.  Never  was  he 
known  to  give  less  than  the  first  price  demanded  for  his 
human  freight ;  and  if  satisfied  in  any  measure  with  the  ap- 
pearance and  number  of  his  cargo,  the  sellers  might  reckon 
very  securely  on  an  additional  present  of  brandy,  powder, 
or  cotton  cloth.  This  being  the  case,  each  one  did  his 
utmost  to  serve  him. 

The  news  that  the  "  Satan"  had  arrived  was  speedily 
spread  all  over  the  island,  but  this  time  there  was  some 
alarm  mingled  with  the  joy.  Alas !  as  no  tidings  of  the 
ship's  coming  had  reached  the  mainland,  the  slaves  who 
were  to  be  sent  had  been  entirely  neglected.  They  had 
received  no  food  for  the  last  forty-eight  hours,  and  their 
condition  was  in  every  respect  most  pitiable,  and  to  the 
purveyors  it  was  of  the  utmost  importance  they  should  look 
as  well  as  possible.  The  bustle  that  now  ensued  was  con- 
siderable— the  same  men  who,  but  a  few  hours  ago,  turned 
a  deaf  ear  to  the  entreaties  or  complaints  of  the  unhappy 
blacks,  or  else  answered  them  with  strokes  of  the  whip,  now 
brought  them  food  of  the  best  quality,  insisted  that  they 
should  eat  their  fill,  and  attended  with  zeal  to  the  cleansing 
of  their  bodies  and  the  healing  of  their  wounds. 

But  they  would  have  spared  themselves  this  trouble,  had 
the  news  which  arrived  in  the  night  been  received  some 
hours  earlier,  namely,  that  their  confederates  on  the  main- 
land had  returned  triumphant  from  an  expedition  into  the 
interior,  and  brought  four  hundred  prisoners,  belonging  to 
the  strong  and  powerful  race  of  the  Bibis,  with  them.  Most 


THE  SLAVE   SHIP.  79 

of  the  negro  tribes  are  of  short  stature,  unshapely  and  in- 
significant in  every  sense  of  the  word ;  the  Bibis,  however, 
are  an  exception,  being  remarkably  tall  and  strongly  built, 
with  fine  carriage  and  commanding  presence.  The  fierce 
and  terror-awakening  expression  of  their  features  is  increased 
by  a  line  of  small  protuberances  resembling  warts,  which, 
by  some  process  like  that  of  tattooing,  they  cause  to 
grow  on  their  visages ;  it  extends  from  the  roots  of  the  hair 
to  the  end  of  the  nose,  rendering  their  countenances  horri- 
ble and  disgusting,  and  their  long  white  teeth,  filed  off  in  a 
triangular  form,  are  also  a  distinguishing  mark  of  the  race. 
Besides  these  peculiarities,  they  differ  from  all  the  other 
negro  tribes  in  the  custom  of  eating  their  meat  without 
cooking.  They  are  feared  among  those  of  their  own  color, 
and  receive  from  all  the  reputation  of  great  bravery  and 
cruelty.  They  are  only  conquered  by  disproportionate  force, 
yielding  only  to  a  number  too  great  to  compete  with.  Yet 
even  as  prisoners  they  are  feared,  and  their  transportation 
in  the  European  ships  is  a  matter  requiring  prudence,  and 
involving  no  small  danger. 

If  the  ship  seen  in  the  distance  was  the  "  Satan,"  a  pro- 
bability of  which  there  was  little  doubt,  these  prisoners  had 
come  in  good  time,  and  were  in  condition  to  command  a  good 
price,  and  although  they  arrived  on  the  coast  at  midnight, 
long  before  sunrise  the  hapless  Bibis  had  been  shipped  over 
to  the  island  of  Zanzibar. 

On  the  following  morning,  the  ship  reached  the  little 
island  without  accident,  and  entering  the  creek,  which  was 


80  THE   SLAVE  SHIP. 

hidden  by  high  rocks  on  each  side,  came  to  anchor  in  this 
secure  harbor,  where  she  could  ride  safely,  and  without 
danger  of  being  seen  by  the  cruisers,  even  by  daylight.  The 
sails  were  reefed — the  ropes  hung  idly  from  the  masts — a 
long  table  covered  with  eatables,  and  numerous  flasks  of 
brandy,  was  spread  upon  the  quarter-deck,  and  around  it 
was  seated  the  crew,  numbering  eighty  rude  men,  on  whose 
visages,  hardship,  dissipation,  and  the  worst  vices  had  set 
their  respective  seals.  Through  long  exposure  to  blasts  of 
sea  winds  and  rays  of  tropical  suns,  they  were  burned  so 
dark  that  they  might  have  well  been  mistaken  for  natives 
of  Madagascar.  Their  dress  was  of  the  cut  peculiar  to 
sailors,  with  the  addition  of  a  leathern  girdle,  in  which  was 
stuck  two  pistols  and  a  long  dirk.  The  greatest  equality 
seemed  to  exist  between  officers  and  crew — they  were  cele- 
brating, in  this  bacchanalian  manner,  the  safe  arrival  of 
their  goodly  ship,  and  they  sat  beside  and  drank  with  each 
other  on  the  most  intimate  terms  of  good  fellowship.  This 
familiarity  between  the  superior  grade  and  their  hirelings, 
sufficiently  explained  the  occupation  followed  by  the  Satan, 
had  any  doubt  existed ;  a  familiarity  so  totally  different 
from  that  subordination  enforced  on  board  of  other  ships, 
proved  that  to  pursue  their  abominable  calling  profitably 
the  greatest  harmony  was  necessary.  Men  on  board  a 
slaver  have  to  battle  with  greater  hardship  and  danger,  and 
it  is  but  policy  on  the  part  of  their  officers  to  treat  them 
well,  and  keep  them  in  good  humor,  for  they  have  not  only 
to  contend  with  the  constantly  threatening  danger  of  the 


THE   SLAVE   SHIP.  81 

Southern  seas,  but  also  to  be  ready  to  aid  in  case  of  any 
rising  on  the  part  of  the  despairing  negroes,  to  assist  in 
keeping  them  in  subjection,  and  be  ever  on  guard  against 
the  English  ships. 

Of  this  preparation  for  war,  the  Satan  carried  evident 
proof.  Whoever  looked  over  her  quarter  deck,  would  have 
been  aware  of  twenty  cannon  all  in  the  best  order;  while 
the  high  bulwarks,  whose  openings  were  ever  kept  closed, 
forbade  any  ship,  unless  in  close  proximity,  from  discover- 
ing that  they  were  ready  to  open  their  fiery  throats,  and 
vomit  forth  flames  on  the  first  aggressor  that  offered  hostility. 
But  when  the  matter  became  close,  and  resistance  was  neces- 
sary, the  concealed  battery  was  unmasked  at  once,  and  the 
skill  with  which  the  bullets  were  directed,  and  the  rapidity 
with  which  they  flew,  showed  it  was  managed  by  no  inexpe- 
rienced hands.  The  dexterity  with  which  one  portion  of 
the  crew  managed  the  sails,  drawing  the  ship  out  of  the 
enemy's  reach  while  the  other  defended,  proved  the  perfect 
accordance  of  interest  which  they  so  well  understood,  and 
left  no  doubt  that,  to  act  thus  in  concert,  they  must  have 
passed  years  together  in  this  hateful  traflic,  involving  so 
f  much  danger  and  crime.  Did  they  come  to  close  quarters  ? 
— a  circumstance  they  were  careful  to  avoid — or  did  a  storm 
threaten  the  safety  of  their  beautiful  vessel  ?  as  many  men, 
ready  for  her  rescue,  showed  themselves  on  her  deck  as 
upon  that  of  an  English  frigate.  In  moments  like  these  the 
strictest  discipline  was  enforced ;  whoever  did  not  obey  in- 
stantly had  a  bullet  sent  through  his  headl 

6 


82  THE   SLAVE   SHIP. 

But  of  discipline,  not  a  word  was  heard  whilst  they  lay 
in  the  concealed  harbour  formed  by  the  creek  of  Zanzibar. 
Here,  where  the  ship  lay  so  securely  at  her  moorings,  where 
they  had  a  prospect  of  a  long  rest  from  the  toils  and  dan- 
ger of  a  stormy  voyage,  nothing  was  to  be  heard  but  the 
ringing  of  glasses,  ribald  songs,  and  rude  jests.  Officers 
and  men  gave  themselves  up  to  the  enjoyment  of  wild  mirth, 
in  which  all  rank  and  distinction  was  swallowed  up. 

Their  drunken  revelry  continued  until  far  in  the  night. 
The  circumspection  so  long  necessarily  observed,  prevented 
their  proceeding  to  too  great  excess ;  and  every  man  sub- 
mitted implicitly  when  the  captain  declared  it  was  time 
their  orgies  were  ended ;  and  having  made  the  proper  dis- 
positions for  the  general  safety  at  his  command,  each  one 
obeyed  the  bidding  as  coolly  as  though  it  had  been  a  matter 
of  choice.  Only  ten  men  remained  on  deck  as  guards ;  the 
rest  went  down  below  to  sleep,  prepared  to  relieve  their 
comrades  after  the  usual  four  hours'  watch. 

The  tropical  days  and  nights  are  of  equal  length.  The 
morning  and  evening  twilight  is  unknown — day  passes 
into  night  without  that  darkening  interval  so  favourable  to 
meditation ;  night  bursts  into  day  without  having  to  with- 
draw the  gray  veil  with  which,  in  our  latitude,  creation  is 
shrouded.  The  sun  leaps  forth,  as  it  were,  on  his  fiery 
course  ;  nature  starts  out  at  once  from  darkness,  as  if  anxious 
to  disclose  the  beauties  and  glories  of  heaven,  earth  and  sea, 
almost  blinding  the  eye  with  the  magnificence  that  everywhere 
meets  it,  blazing  forth  with  a  splendor  too  gorgeous  for 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  83 

those  who  dwell  in  'colder  climes  to  imagine,  imparting  his 
own  glory  to  the  beams  on  which  he  shines.  The  wonders 
of  Nature  thus  lavishly  displayed  so  clearly,  tell  of  the 
greatness  of  their  Almighty  Creator,  that  every  feeling 
heart  must  acknowledge  the  Omnipotent  power  by  which  all 
are  made,  and  burst  forth  in  praise  of  the  goodness  by  which 
all  is  upheld. 

But  for  the  crew  of  the  Satan,  the  glories  of  creation  had 
no  charm — on  such  rude  natures  these  grand  phenomena 
made  no  impression.  Officers  and  men,  who  held  their  watch 
on  deck,  cared  little  whether  the  sun  rose  in  splendor  or  in 
clouds.  With  one  only  object  in  view,  while  darkness  rested 
on  the  face  of  the  deep,  they  peered  anxiously  round,  and  care- 
fully noted  all  objects  only  interesting  as  being  less  or  more 
suspicious.  But  notwithstanding  their  vigilance,  and  even 
as  they  listened,  many  little  boats  came  near  the  ship  unre- 
marked ;  and  shortly  after,  twenty  dark  forms  had  clambered 
up  the  ship's  side,  and  were  standing  upon  the  quarter  deck 
ere  any  one  was  aware  of  their  neighborhood. 

But  the  newly  arrived  guests  came  not  as  enemies ;  they 
were  the  slave  purveyors;  and  the  sailors  knew  them  well, 
for  they  had  seen  them  often.  The  captain  was  called 
from  his  hammock  at  once.  He  greeted  them  courteously 
and  kindly.  This  duty  discharged,  he  invited  six,  the 
leaders  of  the  party,  to  his  cabin,  leaving  the  rest,  who 
were  Arabs,  and  formed  their  chief's  retinue,  with  the  sail- 
ors on  deck.  Having  reached  that  spot,  they  were  almost 
immediately  joined  by  a  little,  thick-set  old  man,  whose 


84  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

large,  copper-colored  nose,  and  bronzed  and  puffed-out 
cheeks,  showed  their  owner's  acquaintance  with  passion  and 
strong  drink ;  while  peering  out  from  beneath  his  bristly 
gray  hair,  was  seen  his  wild  sparkling  eyes,  that  rested  on 
each  object  that  met  them  with  the  expression  of  a  demon. 
This  was  Gaitar,  the  supercargo,  to  whom,  besides  his  office, 
the  greatest  share  of  the  ship  belonged.  It  seemed  as  if 
this  man  was  well  known  to  the  party  who  came  on  board, 
for  as  soon  as  he  made  his  appearance,  they  acknowledged 
his  presence  in  the  oriental  fashion,  bowing  their  head  in 
token  of  deep  reverence,  and  kissing  their  hands. 

"  Allah  and  his  prophet  be  praised,"  said  one,  when  at 
length  this  mute  ceremony  was  ended,  "  that  we  see  you 
once  more,  jewel  of  our  land,  with  your  ship  and  crew.  You 
must  have  borne  much  from  those  inhuman  wretches — those 
English  and  French  who  are  watching  our  shores  so  closely. 
I  know  well  that  you  belong  to  the  last  mentioned  nation  ; 
but  for  me  you  are  a  Portuguese,  a  Brazilian,  or  of  any 
other  of  those  nations  that  encourage  the  slave  trade." 

"  Great  Bey,"  answered  Gaitar,  "your  confidence  and 
friendship  make  me  proud.  How  I  esteem  you  will  be 
found  when  you  see  what  stores  I  have  brought — the  best 
of  rum,  the  handsomest  blue  stuffs,  the  most  excellent  guns 
for  yourself  and  your  friends.  So  let  us  to  business,  and 
talk  over  our  concerns  together." 

Gaitar  and  the  captain  now  inquired  what  number  of 
slaves,  and  of  what  race,  these  Arabian  purveyors  had  ready. 
The  answer  was,  that  twelve  hundred  could  be  delivered  at 


THE  SLAVE-SHIP.  85 

once ;  that  two-thirds  of  the  number  had  been  in  their  pos- 
session for  a  long  time ;  nevertheless  they  were  in  good 
condition ;  but  that  when  they  saw  added  to  these  the  four 
hundred  strong  and  robust  Bibis,  who  had  just  been 
brought  in,  they  could  not  fail  of  being  pleased,  since  great 
profit  was  certain  to  accrue  from  the  sale  of  such  a  cargo. 

That  the  name  "  Bibis  "  made  an  unpleasant  impression 
on  Gaitar,  was  evident  from  the  sudden  change  his  counte- 
nance exhibited.  Courage  was  not  his  element — it  was  his 
business  and  his  aim  to  make  good  bargains  without  run- 
ning into  danger.  Since  the  squadron  pursued  and  handled 
the  slave  ships  with  such  unrelenting  severity,  he  had  made 
up  his  mind  to  withdraw  from  the  business.  The  present 
voyage  should  be  the  last ;  he  was  now  a  millionaire,  and 
could  afford  to  give  up  the  dangerous  trade.  Under  such 
circumstances,  and  in  several  points  of  view,  the  shipping 
of  such  a  large  number  of  those  dangerous  Bibis  was  a  mat- 
ter that  required  more  mature  deliberation  than  he  liked  at 
present  to  bestow. 

The  cautious  captain  was  as  little  pleased  with  the  pur- 
veyors' proposal  as  himself.  But  what  was  to  be  done  ? 
The  lading  must  be  completed,  and  the  ship  would  certainly 
i hold  from  a  thousand  to  twelve  hundred  negroes;  and  as 
certainly  one-fourth  of  the  number  would  die  during  the 
voyage  ;  and  on  this  latter  account  it  was  necessary  to  ship 
the  whole  amount,  so  that  a  profitable  speculation  might  be 
made  out  of  the  remaining  three-fourths. 

They  did  not  conceal  their  scruples  and  their  fears  from 


86  THE    SLAVE    SHIP. 

the  purveyors,  their  brethren  in  iniquity,  who  were  also  of 
the  opinion  that  great  prudence  was  necessary ;  they  thought 
they  could  propose  a  plan  which  should  secure  them  from 
any  danger  arising  from  the  indomitable  spirit  of  those  fero- 
cious Bibi  negroes.  It  was  one  often  practised  on  refrac- 
tory slaves,  by  the  traders  who  carried  them  to  America, 
and  although  the  operation  might  seem  a  cruel  one,  still  they 
made  little  account  of  that,  as  it  was  always  found  to  suc- 
ceed. The  plan  pursued  was  to  wound  them  on  their  hands 
and  feet,  so  that,  while  the  body  was  left  free,  they  could 
not  take  part  in  any  confusion  that  might  take  place  on 
board,  and  it  would  not  be  hard  to  manage  so  as  to  keep 
the  wounds  sore  during  the  voyage. 

As  conscience  and  humanity  had  no  place  within  the 
breasts  of  these  wretched  men,  the  proposed  expedient,  be- 
ing one  so  extremely  simple  in  its  execution,  was  fully 
approved  of  by  both  the  buyers ;  and  now  the  bargaining 
went  on  swimmingly.  For  every  black  delivered,  the  seller 
was  to  receive  in  the  lump  two  pounds  of  powder,  two 
quarts  of  brandy,  five  ells  of  cotton  cloth,  and  two  Spanish 
piasters.  In  addition  to  this,  the  purveyors  were  to  receive, 
as  earnest  money,  one  hundred  guns,  the  same  number  of 
small  looking-glasses,  and  fifty  flasks  of  rum. 

By  the  time  the  terms  of  sale  were  concluded,  it  was 
broad  daylight,  and  the  sun  sent  forth  his  flashing  glance 
on  earth  and  ocean;  the  one  disclosed  her  treasures  of 
wondrous  beauty— the  other  reflected  his  glorious  image  on 
his  mirror-like  surface,  and  the  little  rivulets  that  broke 


THE    SLAVE    SHIP.  87 

upon  the  shore,  glittered  like  diamonds  in  the  dancing  rays. 
But  now,  upon  that  shore  so  clothed  in  natural  beauty,  lay 
the  fettered  captives,  who  were  to  be  sold  like  beasts,  or 
inanimate  matter,  to  their  fellow  men — to  the  oppressor 
who  knew  not  God,  neither  recognized  his  image,  whether 
fashioned  of  "  marble  or  ebony."  An  inspection  of  these 
was  necessary.  Without  a  glance  at  the  glorious  prospect 
we  have  mentioned — without  one  softened  feeling  called  up 
by  the  impress  of  the  Creative  hand  seen  on  all  around, 
these  hard  hearted  men — Gaitar  and  the  captain — after 
giving  the  command  of  the  ship  to  the  first  lieutenant, 
ordering  the  shallop  to  be  manned  with  a  sufficient  crew, 
entered  it,  and  followed  by  a  train  of  little  boats,  filled  with 
their  iniquitous  partners  and  their  train,  all  shot  across  the 
unruffled  waters  as  gaily  as  though  they  were  speeding  on 
an  errand  of  mercy. 

Bound  hand  and  foot  together,  the  unhappy  negroes, 
numbering  eight  hundred,  were  lying  on  the  dry  grass  by 
the  bank  of  the  creek.  They  were  entirely  naked,  and 
placed  in  four  rows,  each  one  of  which  was  guarded  by  some 
soldiers,  invested  with  full  power  of  life  and  death  over  the 
hapless  captives.  At  the  slightest  suspicious  movement, 
they  were  permitted  to  shoot  the  dusky  culprit,  without 
admitting  any  excuse,  or  at  all  deigning  to  inquire  whether 
or  not  such  punishment  was  really  merited. 

They  were  therefore  forbidden  to  stir,  and  the  dread  of 
being  shot,  or  beaten,  kept  the  unhappy  beings  almost 
moveless  throughout  the  whole  day.  The  negro  can  be 


88  THE    SLAVE    SHIP.  » 

made  to  suffer,  during  the  execution  of  his  sentence,  in  quiet 
endurance,  through  the  fear  induced  hy  menaces  of  a  greater ; 
but  neither  threats  nor  apprehensions  can  force  him  to 
silence.  When  he  is  alone  he  utters  his  thoughts  aloud ; 
when  with  his  dark  brethren,  he  cannot  be  restrained  from 
talking  with  them.  He  will  rather  die  than  be  silent  for 
one  hour,  and  in  consequence  of  this  well-known  character- 
istic, and  to  save  an  unnecessary  waste  of  life,  their  white 
masters  permit  them  to  use  their  tongues.  They  do  not  see 
each  other  whilst  they  are  conversing,  for  they  lie  flat  on 
their  backs,  and  cannot  turn  their  heads  either  to  the  right, 
or  left.  In  such  a  condition,  it  could  not  be  otherwise  than 
that  blindness  should  ensue,  from  the  dazzling  influence  of 
the  sun's  rays  thus  poured  down  upon  them,  did  they  not 
constantly  keep  them  closed,  and  their  heads  buried  as  deep 
as  possible  in  the  long  grass.  But  they  dare  talk,  and  so  the 
principal  want  of  the  poor  creatures  was  satisfied. 

The  subject  discussed  was  always  one  and  the  same  ;  they 
bewailed  the  hard  lot  by  which  they  were  forced  to  leave 
their  fatherland.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to  portray,  by 
words,  the  agony  the  African  endures  when  torn  from  his 
country  and  his  home.  The  love  of  his  native  land,  the 
image  of  his  hut,  and  the  friends  he  has  left  behind,  are 
interwoven  with  every  fibre  of  his  heart — they  are  cherished 
there  religiously  with  the  superstitious  belief  taught  him  by 
his  rude  forefathers.  The  doctrine  of  a  future  state, 
revealed  by  natural  religion  to  all  men,  is  known  to  the 
negro ;  the  hope  of  a  better  life  beyond  the  grave,  illumes 


THE    SLAVE    SHIP.  89 

the  desert  of  his  soul  with  its  own  beautiful  light,  and  illus- 
trates its  own  power  in  his  indifference  to  danger  and  death. 
But  there  is  one  great  draw-back  to  the  African  in  this 
belief,  so  soothing  to  all;  its  fulfilment  is  only  supposed  on 
the  condition  that  they  shall  die  on  their  native  soil.  So 
soon  as  his  foot  presses  the  white  man's  shore,  the  beauti- 
ful image  which  cheered  his  soul  in  the  wastes  and  thickets 
of  his  torrid  clime,  is  gone  for  ever — death  will  come  to  him 
there,  but  he  resigns  the  hope  of  the  glorious  future.  In  a 
distant  land  he  will  go  to  the  grave,  but  believes  that  beyond 
it  no  reunion  with  wife  and  children  and  friends  will  be  for 
him.  The  unhappy  consequences  resulting  from  this  super- 
stition, are  shown  in  the  frequent  occurrence  of  suicide 
among  the  negroes,  before  their  embarkation.  Rather  than 
leave  Africa,  where  hope  of  a  future  world  alone  sheds  its 
light  for  them,  they  prefer  death,  and  take  their  own  lives 
either  by  strangling  themselves  with  their  chains,  or  by 
other  means  too  shocking  to  relate. 

The  unhappy  beings  who,  fettered  hand  and  foot,  now 
lay  near  each  other  in  the  long  grass,  gave  free  vent  to 
their  tears,  and  uttered  complaints  in  tones  of  deep  but  not 
clamorous  sorrow,  for  the  soldiers  who  stood  guard  over 
them  bade  them  beware  how  they  hindered  the  progress 
of  the  work  of  embarkation,  by  too  loud  expressions  of 
grief.  Mother  and  daughter,  father  and  son,  friend  and 
neighbor,  wept  with  each  other ;  and  here  and  there  many 
an  old  warrior  was  singing  his  death-song. 

Gaitar  and  his  companions  had  no  sooner  reacned  the 


90  THESLAVESHIP. 

shore  than  his  eyes  rested  on  the  swarthy  forms  so  soon  to 
pass  into  his  possession ;  and  well  practised  in  this  sort  of 
scanning,  one  glance  was  sufficient  to  convince  him  of  their 
miserable  condition.  That  most  of  them  had  suffered  from 
want  was  easy  to  be  seen  from  the  emaciated  state  of  their 
bodies,  their  evident  weakness,  and  from  these  causes  the 
too  great  probability  that  they  would  not  live  to  reach  the 
West  Indies.  All  this  flashed  upon  his  calculating  mind 
with  the  speed  of  lightning.  He  saw  he  had  made  a  bad 
speculation ;  most  of  those  negroes  would  never  be  turned 
into  gold.  Yet  the  loss  he  must  necessarily  suffer  from  this 
quarter  he  was  determined  should  be  made  up  in  another ; 
the  immense  profit  he  was  resolved  to  reap  from  the  sale  of 
the  Bibis  was  to  indemnify  him  for  whatever  damage  he 
must  sustain  from  this,  the  most  worthless  part  of  the  bar- 
gain. And  with  this  prospect  in  view,  he  superintended  the 
sending  off  the  first  file  of  blacks  by  the  boats  brought  from 
the  vessel. 

The  unhappy  beings  soon  found  themselves  on  board  the 
slave  ship,  where  preparations  for  their  reception  were  being 
actively  made.  Hundreds  of  fettering  irons  were  brought 
from  the  hold,  some  to  be  repaired,  others  improved.  Each 
one  of  these  was  made  an  instrument  of  torture.  It  was . 
three  inches  in  breadth,  and  composed  of  two  limbs  or  parts 
which  were  secured  into  one  another,  and  fastening  with  a 
bolt  behind,  was  worn  as  a  collar.  Near  to  this  bolt,  on 
the  right  and  left  sides,  were  two  chains,  to  which  manacles 
for  the  wrists  were  fastened ;  and  from  the  front  of  the  col- 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  91 

lar  depended  two  others,  differing  only  in  length  from  those 
first  described,  and  by  these  latter  the  feet  were  confined. 
The  prisoners  could  therefore  neither  move  their  heads, 
hands  or  feet,  but  as  they  moved  their  bodies.  The  chains 
which  bound  the  hands  being  so  short  that  it  only  enabled 
them  to  reach  their  eyes  or  convey  food  to  their  mouths. 

Thus  painfully  equipped,  those  wretched  beings  set  out 
on  their  long  voyage — a  voyage  that  to  them  was  to  prove 
not  only  the  severer  of  all  the  ties  dearest  to  the  heart  of 
man,  but  an  extinguisher  of  the  hope  that  gilds  the  dark  val- 
ley of  the  shadow  of  death,  and  brightens  the  deep  veil  that 
shrouds  Eternity.  There  they  sat  moaning  in  their  mana- 
cles, without  being  able  to  change  their  position ;  and  the 
only  indulgence  ever  allowed  them,  was  permission  to  exer- 
cise on  the  deck  for  half  an  hour  occasionally  when  the 
weather  was  fine  and  no  sail,  which  might  be  supposed  to 
belong  to  a  pursuing  ship,  was  in  sight.  And  this  privilege 
was  only  extended  to  those  considered  least  dangerous.  The 
indomitable  Bibis  were  not  only  entirely  excluded,  but 
guarded  with  great  watchfulness.  Women,  for  the  most 
part,  were  either  left  unchained,  or  fettered  but  lightly, 
and  children  could  run  about  at  their  own  pleasure. 

The  confined  air  they  were  obliged  to  breathe,  the  pain- 
fully constrained  position  in  which  they  were  forced  to  re- 
main, is  sufficient  to  explain  the  great  mortality  found  on 
board  the  slave  ships,  without  any  aid  from  the  greater 
cruelties  practised  upon  them  in  the  ship's  hold.  This  room 
— if  room  it  may  be  called — extended  tho  whole  length  and 


92  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

breadth  of  the  ship,  the  sides  sloping  gradually  from  above 
to  the  middle,  which  was  filled  up  with  stones  and  other 
heavy  articles  to  serve  as  ballast.  Over  these  were  laid 
rough  boards,  thus  forming  several  tier  of  lodging  places, 
like  the  berths  in  a  ship,  none  of  them  exceeding  three  or 
four  feet  in  height.  A  space  is  left  in  the  middle,  which 
reaches  from  pillar  to  pillar,  serving  not  only  for  a  passage 
to  and  from  the  deck,  but  affords  the  necessary  room  for 
the  guards  to  prosecute  their  vigilant  survey.  In  these 
several  apartments  the  negro  men  were  packed  closely,  and 
in  the  order  in  which  spoons  are  laid ;  and  the  more  bodies 
there  were  thus  placed  in  the  several  rows,  the  more  advan- 
tage it  was  to  the  guard  to  whose  charge  the  number  of 
heads  was  committed ;  for  each  day  after  counting  them 
over,  he  received  a  premium. 

Seated  in  this  torturing  posture,  and  suffering  the  mental 
pain  of  being  torn  from  home  and  country — to  this  was 
added  the  horrors  of  sea  sickness  and  its  consequences  ; — 
their  skins  became  broken,  foul  wounds  ensued,  the  oppres- 
sive heat,  the  want  of  fresh  air,  the  impure  atmosphere, 
filled  with  the  effluvia  arising  from  so  many  bodies  crowded 
together,  the  bad  food,  and  the  brutal  treatment  received 
from  the  sailors, — what  wonder  that,  under  such  circumstan- 
ces, three  or  four  hundred  blacks  should  die  in  the' course  of 
every  voyage  made  by  the  Satan. 

The  preparations  for  such  accommodations  as  we  have 
tried  to  describe  were  completed  on  board  ;  as  the  boat  con- 
veying the  first  transport  of  negroes  reached  her  side,  but  a 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  93 

few  moments  elapsed  before  the  unhappy  men  were  chained 
and  packed ;  and  whilst  they  wept  and  groaned  over  their 
hard  lot,  and  the  cruelty  of  their  fellow  men,  the  bark  shot 
gaily  over  the  flashing  waters,  to  bring  a  new  load  of  misery 
from  Zanzibar. 

Whilst  his  men  were  busy  in  effecting  the  shipping  of  the 
first  named  eight  hundred  blacks,  Gaitar  was  surveying  the 
second  division,  namely,  the  Bibis ;  who,  called  forward  by 
the  purveyor,  into  whose  hands  they  had  fallen,  came  forth 
unresistingly  and  stood  before  him.  The  first  glance  at 
the  fine  proportions  and  strongly  moulded  limbs  of  these  war- 
like figures,  caused  the  captain  and  supercargo  to  forget  all 
their  previous  anxiety  on  the  subject  of  their  indomitable- 
ness.  Four  hundred  men  of  such  a  build  as  these,  who  now 
stood  forth  to  meet  his  inspection,  were  worth  more  than  a 
thousand  like  those  already  sent  off.  As  he  gazed  on  these 
Herculean  specimens  of  manhood,  an  emotion  of  humanity 
trembled  in  the  captain's  heart, — awakened,  indeed,  by  no 
noble  feeling,  for  it  owed  its  birth  to  avarice.  Might  it  not 
be  possible,  by  placing  them  under  a  stricter  watch,  and  sub- 
jecting them  to  harder  discipline,  to  spare  these  noble  look- 
ing men  the  pain,  and  himself  the  scandal,  of  having  those 
free  limbs  wounded  in  the  manner  proposed  by  the  villa- 
nous  purveyors  ?  They  would  bring  a  far  better  price  in  the 
West  India  markets  if  seen  in  the  unmaimed  form  bestowed 
on  them  by  the  great  mother — Nature.  He  proposed  the 
measure  to  Gaitar,  who  fully  shared  his  opinion,  at  the 
same  time  declaring  that  if  any  restive  or  refractory  spirit 


94  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

was  shown  on  board  the  ship,  the  "operation,"  as  he  termed 
it,  could  easily  be  performed  there.  But  in  order  to  be  on 
the  safe  side,  he  commanded  that  the  fetters  which  had  been 
removed  from  their  feet  in  order  to  enable  them  to  walk 
forward  for  his  inspection,  should  again  be  replaced  before 
they  entered  the  boat  which  was  to  convey  them  to  the  ship. 
To  accomplish  this  work,  it  was  necessary  to  form  them  in 
rows  of  one  hundred  men  each.  They  were  seated  upon 
the  grass  which  we  said  before  was  long  and  dry.  After 
the  first  hundred  men  were  fettered  in  the  manner  we  have 
tried  to  describe,  they  were  packed  in  the  boat  and  sent 
off;  Gaiter  followed  in  his  shallop  to  superintend  the  land- 
ing in  person,  leaving  a  portion  of  his  boat's  crew  behind, 
to  guard  those  that  remained. 

Until  this  time,  the  negroes  had  maintained  their  usual 
apathetic  indifference  to  all  that  was  going  forward,  carry- 
ing on  the  not  interdicted  conversation  among  themselves, 
and  suffering  quietly  everything  their  persecutors  chose  to 
inflict.  But  in  the  moment  of  their  brethren's  departure 
for  the  ship,  the  remaining  portion  raised  their  heads  above 
the  long  grass  in  which  they  lay,  a  gleam  of  wild  ferocity 
shot  athwart  their  hitherto  sad  countenances  as  they  looked 
after  their  departing  friends — they  raised  a  loud  cry,  the 
deep  and  melancholy  cadence  of  which  seemed  worthy  to 
have  been  issued  from  the  caverns  of  despair,  and  was 
answered  by  the  departing  with  one  of  equal  sadness.  The 
curlew  in  alarm  repeated  the  cry,  as  the  sounds  of  agony 
floated  o'er  the  bosom  of  the  ocean.  Did  it  cleave  its 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  95 

depths  ? — did  its  echo  reach  to  heaven  ? — was  it  registered 
there  ? 

The  rude  soldiers  who  guarded  these  captives  were  fright- 
ened. Their  first  impulse  was  to  chastise,  but  who  ?  The 
whole  three  hundred  were  equally  guilty — to  punish  all 
would  be  a  work  that  required  some  time,  and  besides,  they 
were  no  longer  the  property  of  the  purveyors,  but  of  the 
Europeans.  In  view  of  this,  they  contented  themselves  by 
placing  the  prisoners  in  a  circle,  in  the  midst  of  which  the 
soldiers  and  purveyors,  armed  with  swords  and  lances,  sta- 
tioned themselves,  ready  to  punish  the  first  man  who  showed 
a  disposition  to  disturb  the  public  peace.  But  no  movement 
showed  that  any  such  thing  was  intended — quiet  once  more 
reigned  around — the  guards  relaxed  their  vigilance,  and 
looking  out  toward  the  sea,  amused  themselves  by  watching 
the  boat,  which  had  by  this  time  reached  the  ship,  and  was 
discharging  her  cargo  on  board. 

This  task  performed,  the  boat  once  more  turned  her  head 
towards  the  shore — she  skimmed  like  a  bird  across  the 
waters,  and  the  soldiers,  as  they  watched  the  light  and 
arrowy  course,  forgot  their  necessary  surveillance  and  their 
prisoners.  She  came  forth  gaily  for  her  living  freight,  the 
strokes  of  the  oars  were  distinctly  heard,  the  soldiers  and 
sailors  were  exchanging  question  and  answer,  each  so  taken 
up  with  the  other  that  they  had  no  attention  to  bestow  else- 
where, when  all  at  once  a  sea  of  fire  burst  forth,  and  spread 
with  fearful  rapidity  on  all  sides.  Behind — before — to  their 


96  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

very  feet,  it  advanced  in  its  devouring  fury — pouring  forth 
its  sheets  of  flame. 

One  of  the  Bibis  having  been  able  to  free  his  hands  from 
his  chains,  had  succeeded  in  igniting  two  pieces  of  dry  wood 
by  rubbing  them  together  behind  his  back,  and  throwing 
them  into  the  dry  grass  with  which  the  earth  was  covered,  a 
fire  was  soon  kindled,  whose  frightful  progress  was  appalling 
to  behold.  It  rolled  its  fiery  waves,  like  those  of  the  sea, 
over  all  that  lay  in  its  way,  leaping  forth  on  all  sides,  and 
enveloping  all  in  its  blazing  shroud — and  it  seemed  that 
scarce  a  moment  passed  from  the  time  of  the  first  alarm 
until  it  rolled  from  the  shore  until  far  in  the  island,  only 
stopping  when  there  was  nothing  left  to  devour.  It  rolled 
to  the  spot  occupied  by  the  manacled  slaves  and  the  free 
limbed  soldiers,  but  it  spared  neither  the  one  nor  the  other  ; 
and  the  triumphal  war  cry  of  the  Bibis  rose  above  the 
crackling  and  rolling  flames,  ascending  even  to  the  clouds, 
mingling  with  the  shrieks  of  anguish  uttered  by  the  pur- 
veyors and  their  soldiers,  who  found  their  death  with  the 
three  hundred  negroes  whose  oppressors  they  were. 

Horror  seized  upon  all  who  witnessed  the  sight,  but  no 
one  was  so  much  affected  as  Gaitar.  A  fearful  impression 
was  made  upon  him,  less  on  account  of  the  loss  he  had  sus- 
tained, than  from  a  superstitious  belief  that  such  a  disas- 
trous beginning  could  forebode  nothing  but  an  unfortunate 
ending.  He  resolved,  therefore,  to  lift  his  anchor  at  once, 
and  without  caring  for  the  neighborhood  of  the  English 
cruisers,  he  left  the  coast  of  Zanzibar,  and  had  reached  the 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  97 

broad  ocean  ere  the  daylight  had  faded.  This  bold  stroke 
succeeded  better  than  they  had  dared  to  hope  for.  No 
enemy  met  him  on  the  high  seas,  no  storm  dismantled  his 
beautiful  vessel,  and  fourteen  days  after  this  terrible  scene, 
calmly  and  quietly  as  though  her  voyage  was  not  one  to 
tempt  the  anger  of  Him  who  commands  the  winds  and  the 
waves,  he  sailed  into  harbor  at  the  Isle  of  Bourbon. 

It  was  in  the  middle  of  December,  the  second  month  of 
the  tropical  winter,  and  just  at  the  time  when  the  storm  and 
tempest  unite  to  form  the  desolating  hurricane,  and  however 
frightful  in  their  devastating  power  on  land,  they  are  much 
more  so  on  sea.  The  rain  pours  down  in  torrents,  the  little 
brooks  swell  into  mighty  rivers,  whole  districts  in  the  low 
lands  are  submerged  in  water  with  a  rapidity  hardly  to  be 
imagined,  and  the  waves  that  dash  upon  the  shore,  usually 
from  four  to  five  feet  high,  now  rise  to  sixty  or  an  hundred. 
The  air  is  sultry  and  oppressive,  the  heavens  are  clothed 
with  dull  copper-colored  clouds,  the  wind  sighs  and  wails  as 
though  piping  the  world's  elegy,  or  mourning  the  arrival  of 
the  day  of  doom;  nothing  can  resist  it  in  its  unbridled 
course,  men,  animals,  trees,  and  houses  are  overturned,  and 
its  track  is  to  be  distinguished  for  miles,  for  all  has  been 
swept  as  with  the  besom  of  destruction. 

It  was  a  hurricane  like  this,  that  in  the  year  1829  drove 
a  large  ship  out  of  the  harbor  at  the  Isle  of  Mauritius,  and 
carrying  her  up  to  the  custom-house,  left  her  on  dry  land, 
and  by  the  same  tornado,  the  long  pier  at  the  haven  of  the 
Isle  of  Bourbon  was  entirely  torn  away.  Terrible,  and 
7 


98  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

greatly  to  be  dreaded,  as  these  storms  are  by  the  inhabit- 
ants of  those  countries  subject  to  their  sway,  as  we  have 
already  mentioned,  to  the  sailor  they  come  yet  more  fraught 
with  disaster.  No  creek  can  secure  a  ship  from  its  fury,  no 
haven  afford  a  place  where  she  can  safely  ride  during  it« 
progress.  As  soon  as  the  clouds  threaten  the  approach  of 
this  terrific  visitant,  in  flight  is  the  only  medium  of  safety ; 
it  is  necessary  to  secure  a  good  offing  at  once  to  save  ship, 
and  goods,  and  life ;  and  the  sailor  must  crowd  sail  to  reach 
the  open  sea,  without  care  as  to  what  direction  the  wind 
may  drive  him,  so  it  only  bears  him  and  his  craft  to  the 
broad  ocean.  Groaning  and  creaking  in  the  blast,  the  vessel 
flies  through  wave  and  tempest  at  random — at  one  moment, 
mounted  upon  the  heaving  billow — the  next,  she  is  in  the 
deep  hollow  formed  by  the  angry  waters.  Woe  to  the  im- 
provident sailor  whose  ship  is  not  fully  prepared  for  such  a 
strife  as  this  !  Woe  to  the  fool-hardy  mariner  who,  because 
he  has  often  ventured  his  life  on  the  uncertain  sea,  now  tempts 
its  fury  in  an  unsafe  boat !  Is  the  vessel  new  and  perfectly 
seaworthy  ?  is  the  crew  sufficient  and  fearless  ?  is  the  cap- 
tain experienced,  calm  and  collected  in  this  hour  of  danger, 
she  may  come  off  conqueror  in  this  tremendous  battle  with 
the  raging  elements.  After  along  suspense  of  alternate  hope 
and  fear — of  life  and  death — he  returns  to  the  haven  he  had 
left  with  his  ship,  but  not  as  she  went  forth,  but  with  the 
goodly  vessel  sadly  dismantled,  for  masts  and  sails  have 
been  yielded  trophies  to  the  tornado's  power. 

But  he  can  only  hope  to  reach  a  secure  haven  if,  as  he 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  99 

dashes  on  his  dangerous  path,  he  is  met  by  no  whirlwind 
or  waterspout.  For  in  these  latitudes  it  is  no  uncommon 
thing  for  a  ship  thus  flying  to  be  suddenly  arrested  by  a 
whirlwind,  caught  up  for  a  moment,  and,  ere  the  affrighted 
mariners  have  time  to  think,  buried  forever  in  the  depths  of  t 
the  sea.  Nor  is  there  less  danger  from  the  waterspout. 
Rising  dark  and  threatening  from  the  moaning  ocean,  the 
watery  pillar  moves  slowly  onward ;  and,  unless  able  to  get 
out  of  its  way,  it  bursts  over  the  hapless  vessel,  and  she  is 
crushed  by  its  weight,  even  to  the  caverns  of  the  deep. 

The  captain  of  the  Satan  stood  upon  the  quarter  deck 
looking  through  his  glass,  when,  after  long  observation,  he 
became  aware  of  two  dark  spots  on  the  edge  of  the  distant 
horizon;  one  was  in  the  cloud  that  seemed  to  rest  upon  the 
face  of  the  waters — the  other  on  the  ocean  below.  Both 
seemed  equally  to  claim  his  attention.  He  spoke  not,  but 
continued  to  look  with  strained  and  fixed  attention,  until  at 
length,  as  if  satisfied  with  the  scrutiny,  he  removed  the 
glass  from  his  eye,  and  turning  to  Gaitar,  exclaimed  in  a 
voice  sufficietly  indicative  of  alarm — 

"Look,  there  is  the  enemy  and  the  storm." 

He  was  not  wrong  in  his  conjecture.  Two  ships  of  war, 
one  a  French  frigate,  the  other  an  English  corvette,  came 
looming  forth  from  the  distance,  and  bearing  sail  directly  to- 
wards the  Satan,  showing  by  their  manoeuvres  that  they  knew 
her  character,  and  plainly  intimated  what  were  their  own  in- 
tentions. 

The  swiftness  with  which  one  ship  overtakes  or  avoids 


100  THE    SLAVE    SHIP. 

another,  depends  entirely  upon  what  position  she  occu- 
pies with  regard  to  the  wind.  In  this  respect  the  Satan  was 
greatly  at  disadvantage,  and  it  was  manifest.  They  on 
board  knew  it,  for  they  tacked  instantly,  and  hore  up 
•vith  a  side  wind,  still  endeavouring  to  maintain  their  course 
owards  the  Isle  of  Bourbon.  The  captain  had  commanded 
this  alteration  to  be  made,  and  trusting  to  the  lightness  of 
his  vessel,  hoped  to  be  able  to  escape  his  enemy  by  outsail- 
ing him.  By  some  untoward  circumstance,  the  changing 
of  sails  occupied  more  time  than  was  usually  the  case,  and 
the  delay  was  productive  of  loss  to  the  Satan.  The  ship, 
while  this  manoeuvre  was  performing,  of  course  made  no 
headway,  and  consequently  lost  an  advantage  which  her 
antagonist  gained.  The  fugitive,  therefore,  could  only  hope 
to  distance  her  enemy  by  more  vigorous  sailing  when  once 
head  up  upon  the  new  tack  they  were  about  to  take.  The 
captain  took  new  measures  and  issued  his  orders  accordingly. 
But,  alas !  he  found  his  pursuer  a  swifter  sailer  than  he 
imagined  so  large  a  vessel  could  be ;  for  indeed  at  times  so 
rapidly  did  the  frigate  gain  upon  the  fugitive,  it  seemed  that 
she  outstripped  the  far-famed  Satan  in  point  of  speed. 

Two  hours  had  elapsed  from  the  commencement  of  this 
doubtful  race,  when  a  cannon  thundered  from  the  frigate, 
and  sent  forth  a  sheet  of  flame  and  smoke  over  that  dusky 
sea.  A  ball  struck  the  main  sail  of  the  Satan,  but  without 
doing  much  injury.  The  battery  on  board  the  slave  ship 
was  in  perfect  readiness  to  return  the  salute  had  the  captain 
deemed  it  the  more  prudent  course ;  but  at  present  no  an- 


THE    SLAVE    SHIP.  -101 

swer  was  given  to  the  question  so  boisterously  asked — for  on 
this  occasion  "  discretion  was  held  to  be  the  better  part  of 
valor,"  and  it  was  best  to  seek  safety  in  flight.  Besides, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  the  frigate  was  more  heavily 
armed  and  better  manned  than  the  light  sailing  slaver ;  and 
how  much  greater  must  her  advantage  in  those  respects  b } 
since  the  latter  had  lost  so  many  of  her  people  by  the  firt 
kindled  by  the  Bibis  on  the  shore  of  Zanzibar. 

The  captain's  situation  became  more  critical  every  mo- 
moment.  The  frigate  and  corvette  gained  on  him  until 
scarce  an  English  mile  lay  between  them  and  the  Satan. 
The  cannons  once  more  thundered  forth  their  fiery  demands ; 
but  this  time  two  balls  reached  the  deck  of  the  slaver, 
bringing  damage  if  not  death  with  them.  In  great  conster- 
nation the  captain  and  supercargo  consulted  with  each  other 
what  was  best  to  be  done ;  but  they  could  not  come  to  any 
conclusion.  Their  fears,  their  despair,  increased  with  every 
moment.  They  spoke  of  surrender  on  assurance  that  their 
lives  should  be  spared ;  but  the  crew  were  not  agreed  as  to 
the  expediency  of  this  measure. 

At  this  critical  moment,  as  if  to  favor  the  Satan,  an  ally 
unasked,  unprayed  for,  but  yet  welcome,  appeared  and  lifted 
his  dark  and  threatening  shadow  over  the  contending  ves- 
sels. The  little  black  cloud  that  rested  on  the  edge  of  the 
horizon,  at  first  no  larger  than  a  human  hand,  had  grown 
into  gigantic  dimensions,  and  now  covered  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  heavens  with  its  fearful  pall.  From  time  to  time 
fierce  gusts  of  wind  swept  over  the  sea  and  rent  the  clouds, 


102  *  THE    SLAVE    SHIP. 

dividing  their  dark  array  for  a  moment,  and  driving  them 
along  the  rack;  but  almost  in  the  same  moment  others 
deeper,  darker,  and  more  threatening  were  piled  up  in  their 
places,  pregnant  with  tempest  and  fearful  to  behold.  So 
dense,  so  heavy  these  became  at  last,  that  the  wind  had  no 
longer  power  to  sway  them  ;  but  moaning,  wailing  or  raging 
it  continued  to  sweep  over  the  broad  surface  of  the  sea,  and 
its  mighty  rule  was  soon  manifest  then.  The  waves  swelled 
to  a  fearful  height ;  and  rising  one  above  the  other,  each 
one  higher  than  the  last,  they  interposed  their  towering 
masses  between  the  pursuer  and  pursued,  and  by  irresistible 
violence  separated  them  from  each  other.  The  thunder  of 
the  cannon  was  no  longer  heard — it  was  drowned  by  the 
voice  of  many  waters,  whose  mighty  echoes  were  mingled  with 
the  roaring  of  the  tempest ;  the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents, 
and  veiled  the  heavens  in  almost  impenetrable  darkness. 

After  the  lapse  of  an  hour  or  two,  the  rage  of  the  storm 
was  diminished ;  but  the  cruisers  and  the  slaver  troubled 
themselves  no  further  with  each  other — they  had  enough  to 
do  to  battle  with  the  still  rolling  sea.  They  scudded  before 
the  gale  almost  under  bare  poles — all  the  canvass  having 
been  taken  in  except  the  fore  sail  and  small  jib. 

In  order  to  render  the  assistance  necessary  on  the  deck 
of  the  Satan,  whilst  the  hurricane  was  in  its  greatest  fury, 
the  men  appointed  to  guard  the  negroes  in  the  hold  were 
withdrawn,  and  one  single  sailor  occupied  the  post  of  danger 
which,  a  few  hours  before,  it  was  deemed  requisite  that 
numbers  should  fill.  The  storm  continued  to  rage  fiercely 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  103 

throughout  the  whole  day,  and  in  the  anxiety  to  save  their 
lives  and  ship,  the  slaves  were  unthought  of,  and  so  uncared 
for.  The  craven  sailor,  sent  to  keep  guard,  was  afraid  to 
venture  too  near  the  unhappy  blacks ;  they  were,  therefore, 
left  without  food  or  drink,  while  in  the  meantime,  to  render 
himself  deaf  to  their  complainings,  he  cheered  his  lonely1 
watch  with  a  flask  of  rum. 

When  at  last  released  from  the  sterner  duties  imposed  by 
the  threatened  danger,  the  guards  returned  to  their  post 
below,  they  found  many  of  the  negroes  dead,  and  the  rest 
greatly  exhausted.  But  they  could  not  yet  be  spared  to 
remain.  Yet  although  the  negro  traders,  Gaitar  and  the 
Captain,  knew  that  the  battle  with  the  elements  for  life  or 
death  was  far  from  being  ended,  the  demon  of  avarice  was 
not  subdued ; — in  those  moments  of  horror  they  yet  found 
time  to  calculate  the  probable  loss  on  the  profits  of  the  cargo, 
from  which  they  had  hoped  to  derive  so  much.  They  there- 
fore resolved  to  bestow,  in  spite  of  the  menacing  deaths 
which  surrounded  them,  all  possible  attention  on  the  slaves 
that  remained,  and  to  the  last  minute.  The  boatswain,  who 
was  an  old  and  experienced  sailor,  and  whose  many  years' 
acquaintance  with  the  sea  forbade  his  giving  up  hope  even 
in  dangers  like  the  present,  now  showed  himself  particularly 
active.  He  ordered  the  corpses  to  be  thrown  overboard, 
and  had  the  fresh  air  admitted  as  far  as  was  possible,  and 
portioned  good  and  strengthening  food  to  the  exhausted 
sufferers.  At  the  same  time,  he  declared  himself  willing  to 
remain  below  with  one  or  two  others  to  whom  he  had  spoken, 
and  keep  watch  over  the  negroes. 


104  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

The  storm  continued  to  rage  for  four  days,  with  little 
abatement,  after  the  hurricane  was  over,  until  on  the  fourth, 
when  it  rather  increased,  and  they  were  threatened  with  a 
new  danger.  The  frigate  and  the  slaver  had  been  widely 
separated,  but  the  wind  and  the  waves  had  brought  them 
once  more  into  dangerous  proximity.  The  high  and  mount- 
ing billows  had  often  hidden  the  one  from  the  eyes  of  the 
other ;  but  at  the  moment  of  which  we  are  speaking,  one 
was  seen  rising  on  the  top  of  a  huge  wave,  the  other  directly 
in  the  hollow  below,  so  that  they  could  closely  scan  each 
other,  as  well  as  calculate  the  probability — nay,  almost  cer- 
tainty— of  their  running  into  each  other.  The  royal  ship 
had  lost  all  her  masts — to  keep  her  afloat,  they  had  thrown 
all  the  guns  overboard,  and  as  a  last  misfortune,  a  heavy 
sea  striking  her  rudder,  carried  it  away.  The  Satan  was 
less  injured.  The  masts  with  their  tackle  were  still  stand- 
ing, and  they  had  not  lost  their  rudder,  but  from  the  want 
of  sails,  which  had  been  blown  away,  it  was  impossible  to 
guide  the  ship.  Yet,  under  these  circumstances,  the  negro 
trader  did  not  consider  himself  in  any  better  condition  than 
his  enemy,  nor  did  the  dismantled  state  of  the  latter  remove 
the  danger  of  his  near  neighborhood — for  although  there 
was  nothing  now  to  be  dreaded  from  his  guns,  pitched  and 
tossed  as  both  vessels  were  by  the  unruly  sea,  there  was 
every  reason  to  fear  that  the  Satan  would  be  crushed  by 
the  frigate,  or  the  latter  be  run  into  by  the  Satan.  Thus 
the  Captain  of  the  slayer  looked  out  upon  the  threatening 
peril  without  hope  of  deliverance,  exeept  from  one  source — 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  105 

his  guns  were  yet  in  order,  and  they  must  be  used  now,  less 
as  means  of  aggression,  than  as  instruments  for  the  preser- 
vation of  their  own  lives.  Had  the  frigate  possessed  the 
same  advantages,  the  probability — nay,  without  doubt — 
she  would  have  used  them  as  unscrupulously  as  did  the 
Satan. 

Vainly,  for  a  long  time,  the  captain  of  the  negro  ship 
endeavored  to  pierce  the  body  of  the  hostile  vessel  with 
bullets,  so  as  to  sink  her  ere  she  came  closer — in  vain 
cannon  after  cannon  boomed  heavily  over  the  rolling  sea, 
and  struck  the  hapless  frigate,  now  without  means  of  de- 
fence— the  shot  rattled  on  her  sides,  or  swept  over  her  dis- 
masted hull — but  though  sustaining  some  injury,  she  still 
rode  proudly  on  the  swelling  waves,  as  if,  though  powerless, 
she  was  yet  defiant.  Yet  still  the  waves  on  which  she 
mounted  brought  her  nearer  and  more  near  each  moment — 
the  distance  between  the  ships  was  rapidly  lessening — the 
decisive  instant  had  nearly  arrived.  One  more  surge  of  the 
billows,  and  one  or  both  of  the  ships  must  go  down.  But 
this  moment  did  decide  the  con  test  forever;  the  slaver  poured 
forth  a  whole  volley  of  cannon  shot  from  a  side  battery,  the 
concussion  caused  his  ship  to  recoil  from  the  death-threat- 
ening embrace,  but  the  frigate  met  it  and  was  lost.  The 
noble  vessel  sank  at  once,  and  whilst  she,  with  her  gallant 
crew  of  an  hundred  men  acting  in  a  cause  approved  of  by 
all  lovers  of  humanity,  went  down  to  rest  in  the  deep  caves 
of  the  ocean,  the  criminal  slavers  held  on  their  iniquitous 
way,  rejoicing  at  such  a  scarce  hoped  for  deliverance. 


106  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

On  the  same  evening,  the  moon  showed  her  bright  cres- 
cent in  the  heavens — it  was  her  first  quarter,  and  clear 
weather  might  now  be  expected.  The  storm  ceased,  the 
waves  sunk  to  their  usual  calm,  and  the  Satan  rode  quietly 
and  without  fear.  The  dark  grey  hue  of  the  sea  was 
changed  into  the  usual  tint  of  blue  green,  and  the  leaden 
clouds  that  for  one  whole  week  had  veiled  the  heavens  were 
withdrawn. 

All  danger  for  the  present  being  over,  the  Captain  gave 
orders  for  the  necessary  refitting  of  the  ship.  The  sails 
had  either  been  blown  away,  or  reduced  to  shreds  by  the 
hurricane,  and  to  supply  their  want,  the  sailors'  hammock 
cloths  were  stitched  together,  and  answered  the  temporary 
purpose  well.  They  were  fitted  to  the  yards,  and  it  being 
now  possible  to  guide  the  ship  in  a  desired  course,  and  the 
wind  being  favorable,  in  the  course  of  a  week,  the  bleak 
outline  of  the  hills  on  the  Isle  of  Bourbon  were  distinctly 
visible  above  the  horizon. 

The  landing  of  the  cargo  on  this  island  was  a  work  of 
much  greater  difficulty  than  the  business  of  lading  at  Zan- 
zibar. A  number  of  French  cruisers  hovered  around  this 
coast  as  well  as  on  that  of  Africa,  and  it  was  much  easier  to 
discharge  their  duty  successfully  here  than  there.  A  long 
line  of  coast,  with  various  creeks  and  bays,  affording  only 
too  many  facilities  for  the  carrying  on  of  the  nefarious  trade 
it  was  their  duty  to  prevent,  made  the  task  of  watching 
rather  an  arduous  one,  but  here  they  moved  in  a  kind  of 
circle,  from  which  no  point  of  survey  was  lost.  Thus  it  re- 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  107 

quired  great  caution  for  the  slaver  to  approach  the  island  so 
as  to  elude  their  vigilance,  and  to  do  this,  it  was  necessary 
to  have  co-operation  with  friends  on  the  shore.  In  order, 
therefore,  not  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  cruisers,  each 
slaver  had  some  trusty  accomplice,  who  let  him  know  by 
signals  when  the  coast  was  clear.  By  day  a  flag  displayed 
upon  the  heights,  by  night  a  fiery  telegraph  gave  intelli- 
gence of  the  number  and  position  of  the  ships,  and  directed 
the  slavers  when  and  where  they  might  land  without  danger. 
Enclosed  by  high  and  steep  rocks  that  environ  it  like  a  wall, 
the  Isle  of  Bourbon  possesses  no  haven,  but  only  here  and 
there  a  few  roadsteads  where  ships  can  anchor.  But  of 
these,  insecure  as  they  are,  the  slaver  cannot  avail  himself, 
he  dare  only  seek  a  landing  place  in  spots  which  the  honor- 
able mariner  would  shun  as  too  perilous  to  attempt. 

With  great  joy  the  captain  and  his  companion  beheld  the 
distant  hills.  The  sea  was  calm,  and  the  vessel,  notwith- 
standing her  dismantled  condition,  held  boldly  on  her  way. 
The  heavens  were  cloudless,  and  every  point  of  the  shore 
being  well-known  to  the  crew,  they  kept  off  until  night, 
when  their  landing  could  be  effected  more  safely  than  by 
day.  The  watchers  on  the  heights  had  already  made  their 
signals  as  to  what  point  they  should  steer,  and  they  had 
answered  by  turning  the  ship's  head  in  the  given  direction. 
The  desired  time  had  nearly  arrived,  and  they  now  gave 
themselves  confidently  to  hope  that  the  business  on  which 
they  were  bound  would  end  profitably  and  well,  when  the 
boatswain,  whom  we  have  mentioned  was  keeping  watch 


108  THE   SLAVE  SHIP. 

below,  rushed  into  the  cabin,  where  the  captain  and  super- 
cargo sat  congratulating  each  other  on  the  probable  success 
of  the  expedition. 

"  Captain  !"  he  cried  in  wild  alarm,  "  the  ship  has  sprung 
aleak !  Water  in  the  lowest  hold  !  and  it  is  increasing 
every  minute  !" 

"  You  mistake,  boatswain,"  answered  the  captain,  laugh- 
ing, "  my  ship  is  too  young  and  life-loving  for  this  to  be 
possible.  If  she  were  not  the  noblest  boat  that  ever  was 
built,  how  could  she  have  resisted  and  outlived  the  fiercest 
tornado  ever  known  in  the  memory  of  man  ?  Even  though 
her  copper  sheathing  were  torn  away,  her  oaken  planking 
is  of  the  best  and  soundest,  as  you  well  know,  since  it  is  not 
long  since  you  examined  it  yourself.  It  is  most  likely  that 
in  our  late  pitching  and  tossing,  in  that  infernal  storm,  one 
of  the  water  casks  has  been  upset,  and  spilled  its  contents 
over  the  hold.  Go  down  below  and  look  more  carefully, 
and  you  will  see  that  I  am  right." 

These  words  had  scarcely  passed  his  lips,  ere  a  great  bus- 
tle was  heard — sounds  that  reminded  one  of  the  clashing  of 
arms  when  contending  armies  meet.  It  was  like  the  beat- 
ing of  waves,  the  shock  of  weapons,  the  rush  of  men  and 
horses,  and,  from  time  to  time,  reports  like  those  caused  by 
the  firing  from  a  battery. 

They  listened  for  a  moment,  and  with  visible  alarm 
painted  on  every  feature. 

Now,  captain,  do  you  doubt  any  longer  ?"  inquired  the 
boatswain,  pale  with  terror,  "  the  copper  is  loosened  from 


THESLAVESHIP.  109 

the  keel,  and  I  fear  the  emperor's  sword  has  already  bored 
through  the  oak,  stout  as  it  is." 

The  emperor,  or  sword-fish,  the  tyrant  of  the  Indian 
Ocean,  is  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  in  thick- 
ness four  or  five.  His  mouth,  armed  with  many  hundred 
sharp  teeth,  is  six  feet  long  and  an  half  foot  broad,  resem- 
bles a  two-edged  sword,  and  is  as  hard  as  iron.  With  this 
fearful  weapon  he  is  the  most  dangerous  inhabitant  of  this 
southern  sea;  and  from  his  seeming  unlimited  sway,  and 
because  no  dweller  in  that  same  ocean,  not  even  the  raven- 
ous shark  dare  venture  to  resist  him,  the  sailors  have  given 
him  the  name  of  the  emperor.  Unlike  the  other  finny  mon- 
sters of  the  deep,  who  always  pursue  their  course  alone,  the 
sword-fish  is  never  found  without  company, — his  female  and 
his  young  are  useful  assistants,  and  with  the  same  avidity 
with  which  hounds  pursue  the  hare,  they  follow  his  lead  in 
quest  of  prey,  of  which  the  whale  is  the  principal  object. 

The  emperor  is  not  contented  only  to  destroy  whatever 
living  thing  comes  in  his  way,  but  every  object,  planks,  bits 
of  wreck — anything,  in  short,  that  is  seen  floating  on  the 
surface  of  the  water,  is  sure  to  awaken  his  wrath.  There- 
fore, ships  are  not  spared  when  they  come  in  his  way,  and 
he  never  fails  to  try  his  strength  on  her  sides.  If  her  cop- 
per sheathing  is  not  fast  and  firm  enough  to  resist  his  furious 
strokes,  her  destruction  is  certain,  for  the  strongest  oak  pre- 
sents no  impediment  to  the  fearful  weapon  provided  for  him 
by  nature.  Inserting  its  serrated  point  between  the  small- 
est seam  found  in  the  copper  fastening,  he  bores  his  way 


110  THE  SLAVE  SHIP. 

through  to  the  wood  with  all  the  skill  of  a  mechanic,  and 
works  with  untiring  industry  until  his  saw  is  fully  introduced. 
His  companions  aid  him,  and  in  a  short  time  a  number  of 
small  holes  are  made  close  beside  the  seam  where  he  com- 
menced his  operations,  and  they  do  not  leave  off  their  work 
until,  out  of  many,  one  large  opening  is  made,  forming  a 
leak  through  which  the  water  pours  with  a  force  too  formi- 
dable to  contend  with.  Those  on  board  are  seldom  aware 
of  the  operations  of  this  enemy  until  the  mischief  is  com- 
pleted ;  the  rushing  of  the  waves,  the  piping  of  the  winds, 
the  creaking  of  the  ship's  tackling,  and  the  sounds  of  human 
voices,  as  the  various  orders  are  given  or  received,  mingling 
with  all,  prevent  those  destructive  efforts  at  first  from  being 
heard.  The  chafing  and  thumping  of  the  monsters,  as  they 
beat  the  water  or  thrust  against  the  ship's  sides,  is  the  first 
intimation  they  have  of  the  fatal  disaster,  for  the  noise  is 
ever  comparatively  slight,  until  the  sword  is  fairly  through. 

The  captain  knew  well  what  the  sound  meant,  and  no 
longer  doubted  that  the  boatswain  was  not  deceived. 

"You  are  right,  old  boy,"  said  he,  "  the  ship  must  have 
sprung  a  considerable  leak.  The  quickest  aid  is  necessary. 
It  is  well  for  us  that  we  shall  soon  see  our  friends'  boats 
putting  off  from  the  shore,  for  the  day  is  now  breaking. 
Until  then,  it  is  no  difficult  matter  to  know  what  is  to  be 
done.  Let  the  pumps  be  set  going — pipe  up  all  the  sailors 
and  set  them  to  work  at  once.  In  the  meantime  I  will  go 
below  with  the  carpenter,  and  examine  the  leak — we  can 


THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  Ill 

stop  it,  so  as  to  prevent  too  much  water  from  entering ;  it  is 
well  we  are  so  near  the  shore." 

The  old  salt's  shrill  whistle  called  the  men  together, — 
the  captain  gave  orders  that  they  should  repair  to  the 
pumps.  In  presence  of  this  new  danger  they  complied  rea- 
dily, and,  under  the  boatswain's  direction,  in  less  than  a 
minute  the  pumps  were  in  full  flow.  But  the  water  still 
streamed  in  from  an  unconquerable  source  ;  the  men  worked 
as  for  life  and  death,  but  the  ship  was  not  lightened, — it 
was  evident  that  at  each  moment  she  sank  deeper. 

After  an  half  hour  passed  in  the  most  strenuous  exertions, 
the  captain  saw  that,  in  spite  of  every  effort,  the  ship  must 
go  down.  He  looked  upon  the  beautiful  vessel  which  for  so 
long  had  been  his  home — he  thought  of  the  living  freight, 
from  the  sale  of  which  he  calculated  to  derive  so  much  pro- 
fit,— but  what  was  all  that  in  comparison  with  life.  In  the 
anguish  of  his  heart,  he  resolved  to  throw  himself,  together 
with  the  supercargo,  the  boatswain,  and  two  sailors,  into  the 
shallop,  and,  unseen  by  the  rest,  privately  make  for  the 
shore,  leaving  the  crew,  who  were  working  below,  and  the 
hapless  slaves  to  their  fate.  While  they  were  letting  down 
the  boat,  he  was  standing  with  his  companion  by  the  gang- 
way which  led  to  the  hold,  and  by  which  the  boatswain  must 
necessarily  pass  in  going  to  and  fro  as  he  issued  his  orders 
respecting  the  pumps. 

As  the  old  man  came  near,  the  captain  called  him,  and 
in  a  whisper  informed  him  of  his  intention. 

"  The  leak  is  so  large,"  said  he,  "  that  the  ship  cannot 


112  THE    SLAVE   SHIP. 

hold  out  ten  minutes  more.  Give  order  upon  order, — 
swear,  threaten, — command  until  you  get  the  men  in  con- 
fusion. I  will  take  advantage  of  the  distraction,  and  while 
it  is  yet  dark,  to  get  ashore  with  my  friends  here.  Take 
good  care  and  save  your  life  as  we  are  saving  ours.  As 
soon  as  we  have  the  shallop  launched,  throw  yourself  in 
after  us.  Then  Satan,  my  goodly  ship,  farewell." 

Two  minutes  later  and  the  five  men  pushed  off  in  the 
shallop  from  the  fated  vessel.  But  long  before  they  reached 
the  shore,  the  sea  had  closed  over  the  'Satan — ship,  crew, 
and  slaves  were  hidden  in  her  insatiate  bosom.  A  few 
circling  eddies  for  a  short  time  ruffled  the  place  of  their 
disappearing,  and  then  gradually  subsiding,  the  sun  poured 
his  first  beams  on  the  mirror-like  surface  which  now  glared 
as  calmly  and  brightly  in  those  early  rays  as  if  that  vessel 
had  never  been. 


THE  lion  differs  from  all  beasts  of  prey  belonging  to  the 
cat  kind  in  one  respect :  he  never  wantonly  murders,  but 
--iy  seizes  upon  men  and  beast  when  provoked  or  excited 
by  hunger.  A  proof  of  this  is  furnished  by  an  account  of 
a  Dutch  Mis&:onary,  who,  having  visited  a  friend,  returned 
by  the  way  of  a  large  pond,  on  the  edge  of  which  he  hoped 
to  be  able  to  saoot  an  antelope.  -By  the  time  he  reached  it 
the  sun  was  tolerably  high,  and  as  no  animal  nor  living 
thing  was  seen  on  its  margin  or  elsewhere,  he  rested  his  gun 
against  a  rock,  at  whose  foot  a  small  spring  bubbled  forth, 
the  whole  overshadowed  by  a  thicket  which  rose  from  behind 
it.  He  went  down  to  the  water,  and  having  refreshed  him- 
self with  a  draught,  he  returned  to  the  rock  where  he  had 
left  his  gun,  and  being  wearied  with  his  travel,  laid  down 
on  the  grass  in  the  cool  shadow,  and  in  a  few  moments  was 
•fast  asleep. 

After  awhile  he  awoke  with  a  sensation  of  oppressive 
heat.  He  opened  his  eyes,  and  they  fell  on  a  huge  lion  that 
but  a  step  or  two  distant  was  lying  beside  him,  and  bending 
over,  surveying  him  with  sparkling  eyes.  The  fright  nearly 
robbed  him  of  recollection,  for  the  waiting  animal  stood  over 
him  with  open  jaws.  And  as  he  looked  upon  the  sharp  teeth, 

8  ( 113 ) 


114  THE  LION. 

and  into  the  very  throat,  he  believed  his  destruction  certain, 
and  he  closed  his  eyes  from  the  fearful  sight.  His  presence 
of  mind  at  last  returned.  He  looked  toward  his  gun  and 
slowly  stretched  forth  his  hand  to  take  it  up.  But  at  the 
same  moment  the  lion,  who  probably  knew  by  experience 
the  power  of  a  gun,  raised  his  head  and  began  to  roar  most 
fearfully.  This  induced  the  missionary  to  withdraw  his 
hand.  At  this  moment  the  animal,  seemingly  satisfied  and 
crouching  down,  lay  as  before  with  his  head  between  his 
fore  paws.  Believing  his  watchfulness  for  the  present  sus- 
pended, the  missionary  made  a  second  effort  to  grasp  his 
weapon ;  but  the  crafty  enemy  was  not  so  sound  asleep  as 
he  seemed, — he  raised  his  head  as  before  and  began  to 
growl;  and  when  a  third  and  fourth  attempt  was  made,  it 
was  attended  with  the  same  issue. 

The  sun  beat  with  unrelenting  rigor  upon  the  naked  rock, 
which  reflected  his  rays  with  equal  severity,  so  that  the  poor 
man,  nearly  fainting,  was  obliged  to  change  his  position 
from  time  to  time.  His  naked  feet  were  scorched  almost 
to  blistering;  and  the  only  relief  he  could  know  in  his 
painful  position,  was  by  laying  the  one  over  the  other,  and 
changing  them  from  time  to  time.  The  day  faded  into 
night — the  night  dawned  into  day,  and  the  lion  had  not 
moved  from  the  spot.  The  sun  rose  once  more  and  poured 
down  his  rays  most  fiercely, — and  by  midday  the  heat  was 
so  intense  that  the  half-roasted  feet  of  the  poor  man  had 
lost  all  feeling.  By  noon  the  lion  raised  himself  from  his 
recumbent  position  and  went  towards  the  pool,  turning 


THE  LION.  115 

back  at  every  step  or  two  to  see  if  the  man  had  moved. 
The  latter  made  another  effort  to  grasp  his  gun ;  but  the 
lion  noticed  the  movement,  for,  with  gleaming  eyes,  he 
turned  towards  him,  and  placed  himself  in  an  attitude  to 
spring.  The  poor  prisoner  again  drew  back  his  hand,  and 
the  beast  once  more  relaxed  his  watchfulness,  and,  as  if 
satisfied  that  no  further  effort  would  be  made,  went  to  the 
pool  and  drank.  Having  quenched  his  thirst,  he  went  back 
and  lay  down  in  the  spot  he  had  at  first  occupied — namely, 
within  a  few  steps  of  the  missionary's  feet.  Once  more  the 
night  passed  away,  and  the  lion  still  maintained  his  post. 
At  noon  he  went  as  before  down  into  the  water  to  drink ; 
but  as  he  stood  there,  a  loud  noise  heard  in  another  direc- 
tion, made  him  turn  his  head  to  listen.  This  was  favora- 
ble for  our  missionary.  He  was  now  forgotten,  for  the 
animal  springing  into  the  thicket  which  lay  behind  the 
rocks,  was  hidden  in  a  moment  by  the  dense  foliage. 

As  the  missionary  remarked  this,  he  resolved  to  make 
the  best  use  of  his  time  ere  his  enemy  should  return.  He 
therefore,  mustered  up  all  his  strength  to  reach  his  gun ; 
but  he  found  himself  unable  to  stand — his  feet  were  too 
painful,  and  his  strength  was  exhausted.  With  the  trusty 
weapon  in  his  hand,  he  crawled  towards  the  pool  and  drank; 
but  as  he  examined  his  feet,  which  were  sorely  blistered,  he 
found  his  toes  burnt  as  though  they  had  been  in  the  fire ; 
and  the  skin  had  all  peeled  off  them  as  he  crept  through 
the  grass.  Unable  to  proceed,  he  seated  himself  beside  the 
pool,  and  determined  to  let  the  lion,  whose  coming  he  every 


116  THE  LION. 

moment  expected,  have  the  contents  of  his  gun  in  his  head. 
But  as  hours  passed,  and  the  animal  did  not  reappear,  he 
tied  the  weapon  upon  his  back,  and  crept  along  his  way  on 
all  fours  as  well  as  he  could ;  but  entirely  exhausted,  was 
at  last  obliged  to  lie  down,  and  would  never  have  reached 
home  but  for  the  timely  assistance  rendered  him  by  a  trav- 
eller. He  suffered  for  a  long  time  from  the  consequences  of 
this  adventure,  but  ultimately  recovered — still,  however,  re- 
maining a  cripple,  for  the  loss  of  his  toes  made  him  lame 
for  life. 

Another  not  less  striking  peculiarity  belonging  to  these 
"kings  of  the  beasts,"  is  the  respect  shown  by  the  younger 
lions  for  the  old  of  their  race.  When  a  number  meet 
together  to  hunt  for  prey,  one  of  the  oldest  is  always  chosen 
as  leader,  and  the  others  yield  that  preference  most  willing- 
ly to  him.  When  the  prey  comes  in  sight,  the  others  crouch 
down  in  the  grass,  leaving  to  him  the  honor  of  approaching 
and  seizing  it.  When  the  old  leader  has  killed  the  animal, 
for,  as  we  have  said  before,  they  never  destroy  more  than 
they  want  for  food,  he  retires  from  his  victim  and  lies  down 
for  a  short  time  to  rest.  In  the  meantime,  the  others  keep 
at  a  respectful  distance  without  showing  impatience,  or 
making  any  attempt  to  approach  the  animal  killed  by  the 
old  lion.  When  the  latter  has  sufficiently  rested,  he  returns 
to  his  prey,  seizes  upon  the  breast  and  other  tender  parts, 
and  makes  a  good  meal  without  any  disturbance  from  the 
rest.  Having  eaten  a  tolerable  portion,  he  once  more  be- 
takes himself  to  rest,  and  the  others  still  lie  quietly  repos- 


THE  LION.  117 

ing  in  the  grass.  After  a  short  time  he  returns  to  make  a 
second  meal,  lying  down  after  it  as  before.  The  other  lions 
are  carefully  watching  this  last  movement,  and  as  soon  as 
the  old  one  has  retired,  they  are  up,  and  seizing  upon  what 
he  has  left,  the  carcase  is  soon  demolished. 

An  English  traveller,  who  was  out  collecting  plants,  tells 
of  a  circumstance  of  which  he  was  an  eye  witness.  As  he 
sat  upon  an  elevated  rock,  he  saw  a  young  lion  start  forth 
from  the  thicket  below,  and  seize  upon  an  antelope  that  stood 
unsuspiciously  grazing  on  the  edge  of  a  brook.  He  had 
already  began  to  tear  the  animal  with  his  claws,  when  an 
old  lion  came  up.  No  sooner  had  he  approached  the  prey, 
than  the  younger  withdrew,  and  waited  until  his  senior  had 
finished  his  repast,  after  which  he  returned  and  satisfied  his 
hunger  with  what  was  left. 

Dangerous  an  enemy  as  the  lion  is  considered  to  man, 
there  are  some  of  the  wild  negro  tribes  who  make  his  servi- 
ces conducive  to  their  comfort.  Therefore  the  bushmen  not 
unfrequently  make  him  their  purveyor,  and  serve  themselves 
of  his  spoils  to  increase  their  own  means  of  subsistence.  A 
traveller  who  once  asked  a  bushman  how  he  lived  through- 
out the  year,  seeing  he  had  no  fields  nor  flocks  to  yield  him 
anything,  was  answered — 

"Hive  off  the  lions." 

On  being  asked  how  this  was,  he  replied — 

"  I  will  tell  you  what  I  do.  I  watch  the  lion  and  let  him 
run  down  and  seize  his  prey ;  then  he  kills  it  and  eats  until 
he  is  satisfied.  I  go  up  to  the  place  where  he  is  sitting  by 


118  THE  LION. 

the  carcase — I  go  up  quite  close,  for  I  am  not  afraid  of  him 
when  he  is  full — and  then  I  scream  out,  'What  are  you 
doing  there  ?  Cannot  you  leave  something  for  me  ?  Go 
away  and  let  me  share  in  your  feast — I 'want  meat  as  well 
as  you  !'  Then  I  begin  to  dance  ;  I  jump  and  spring  about 
and  shake  my  clothes.  This  disturbs  him ;  but  he  turns 
about  and  goes  off.  True,  he  growls  and  is  in  a  bad  hu- 
mour ;  but  he  has  eaten  enough  and  does  not  want  me,  and 
BO  he  goes  away  and  gives  me  time  enough  to  eat  my  fill 
and  carry  off  the  meat  he  has  left.  I  take  it  to  my  hut, 
and  then  we  have  plenty  of  provision  for  a  while." 

This  is  not  only  another  proof  that  the  lion  does  not  de- 
light in  carnage,  nor  attack  men  unless  hungry,  but  that  he 
loves  quiet  above  everything.  The  latter  is  plainly  exhibited 
in  the  last  mentioned  circumstance ;  sooner  than  be  dis- 
turbed by  the  noise  and  mock  play  of  his  more  rational  ad- 
versary, the  dignified  animal  withdraws  to  another  spot,  and 
leaves  his  enemy  to  feast  on  his  spoils.  But  this  sport  may 
be  carried  too  far.  Like  the  most  forbearing  among  the 
human  race,  whose  anger,  when  roused,  is  always  the  most 
fearful,  so  after  many  provocations  which  passed  unheeded, 
a  slight  one  may  awaken  the  wrath  so  fearful  in  its  display. 
The  same  traveller  tells  us  that  the  same  bushman  had 
played  his  ingenious  game  once  too  often ;  for  on  one  oc- 
casion that  he  had  followed  a  lioness,  and  sought  in  this 
manner  to  drive  her  away  from  the  carcase  of  a  horse  she 
had  killed  and  was  devouring,  he  met  a  fate  he  little  antici- 
pated. He  had  not  remarked  that  she  was  attended  by  her 


THE  LION.  119 

young,  and  whilst  he  was  screaming  and  capering  round  the 
dam,  they  sprang  upon  and  tore  him  to  pieces. 

This  account  given  by  the  hushmen,  differs  entirely  from 
the  assertion  of  the  Hottentots,  who  say  that  the  lion,  hav- 
ing once  tasted  human  flesh,  prefers  it  to  all  other,  and  in 
that  case  all  their  attributed  consideration  for  the  lords  of 
creation  is  forgotten,  and  he  will  make  war  on  man  singly, 
even  when  the  latter  are  in  numbers. 

A  Caffre  chief  went  out  to  hunt,  accompanied  by  a  troop 
of  his  tribe,  all  well  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  On  the 
first  day,  as  they  were  following  an  elephant,  they  were  met 
by  a  huge  lion,  by  whom  they  were  at  once  attacked.  To 
save  their  own  lives  they  were  obliged  to  sacrifice  one  of 
their  horses,  which  the  animal  devoured  immediately,  and 
whilst  thus  engaged,  the  hunters  sought  a  hiding  place  in 
the  thicket,  and  beside  a  pool  where  they  knew  elephants 
and  herds  of  rhinoceros  came  to  drink. 

They  were  not  disappointed ;  numbers  of  the  animals  we  have 
mentioned  came  there,  but  as  they  were  in  the  act  of  firing 
on  a  rhinoceros,  a  lion  sprang  out  from  among  the  bushes, 
seized  one  of  the  men,  and  carried  him  off.  They  sought  to 
rescue  their  unfortunate  companion,  but  were  unable.  On 
the  next  day  they  found  a  few  of  the  bones  of  the  feet,  but 
the  body  had  been  devoured  at  once.  On  the  next  night  as 
they  sat  round  the  fire  they  had  kindled  at  the  edge  of 
the  wood,  a  lion  came  out  of  the  thicket,  seized  one  of  the 
party,  dragged  him  through  the  fire,  and  tore  a  piece  of 
flesh  out  of  his  back.  One  of  the  men  fired  upon  him,  but 


120  THE  LION. 

the  shot  missed ;  the  animal  dropped  his  dying  victim,  and 
turning  towards  the  men,  roared  so  furiously,  that  not  one 
ventured  to  fire  off  his  piece.  E  e  then  very  leisurely  took 
up  his  booty,  and  retired  with  it  into  the  forest. 

Frightened  by  these  dreadful  occurrences,  and  dreading 
a  repetition  of  them,  the  troop  now  formed  a  barricade  of 
trees,  within  which  they  retired ;  but  in  the  evening  they 
sent  one  of  the  servants  to  the  pool,  which  was  but  a  few 
paces  distant,  for  water.  The  poor  man  had  scarcely  reached 
it,  ere  he  found  himself  within  the  grasp  of  a  lion.  His  cry 
for  help  was  in  vain — in  a  moment  he  was  dragged  J  arough 
the  wood,  and  on  the  next  day  his  skull  was  found  licked 
perfectly  clean  by  the  rough  tongue  of  his  ravenous  de- 
stroyer. 

As  thus,  in  the  course  of  three  days,  the  chief  had  lost 
three  of  his  men,  he  determined  to  augment  his  party,  and 
instead  of  pursuing  the  other  animals,  as  was  his  first  inten- 
tion, hunt  only  the  lion.  They  followed  the  track  of  the 
one  by  whom  the  slave  had  been  carried  off,  and  soon  founu 
two,  and  fired  upon  them ;  but  only  succeeded  in  killing  one, 
and  that  the  least.  Having  refreshed  themselves  with  some 
food,  they  once  more  set  out  to  hunt  the  larger,  which  had 
escaped  into  the  thicket ;  it  was  not  long  before  they  came 
up  with,  and  knew  him  to  be,  the  same  that  had  carried  off 
the  slave. 

They  pursued  him  to  a  spot  thickly  overgrown  with 
sedges,  where  he  had  retreated  to  his  lair,  threw  burning 
matches  into  the  dry  grass,  kindled  it  into  a  flame,  and  soon 


THE  LION.  121 

succeeded  in  driving  out  the  lion.  The  guns  were  fired,  and 
the  bullets  having  this  time  taken  effect,  the  wounded  ani- 
mal retreated  for  a  moment,  when  suddely  turning,  he  ut- 
tered a  roar  so  fearful  that  the  forest  trembled,  and  dashed 
through  the  burning  sedges  towards  his  assailants.  The  en- 
raged animal  broke  in  among  the  hunters,  in  no  wise  daunted 
by  the  numbers,  and  before  they  had  time  to  think,  had 
snatched  a  victim, — it  was  the  chiefs  brother, — and  in  an 
instant  the  breast  of  the  unhappy  man  was  torn  open,  and 
the  blood  streaming  forth  from  his  lacerated  lungs.  The 
chieftain  hastened  to  the  rescue  of  his  dying  brother ;  he 
levelled  his  gun,  but  the  faithless  weapon  flashed  in  the  pan. 
He  threw  it  away,  and  in  his  despair  seized  the  lion  by  his 
tail. 

Enraged  and  roaring,  the  fearful  beast  left  his  first 
prey  and  dashed  towards  the  new  assailant,  and  striking 
him  with  his  fore  paw,  tore  a  large  piece  of  flesh  out  of  his 
arm ;  with  a  second  stroke  he  laid  him  on  the  earth.  The 
chief,  however,  recovered  his  footing  in  a  moment,  but  the 
lion  now  caught  him  by  the  knee  once  more,  threw  him 
down,  and  tore  his  left  arm,  nearly  stripping  the  flesh  from 
the  bone.  Thus  maimed  and  bleeding,  the  chief,  with  all 
the  voice  his  weakness  allowed  him,  called  out  to  his  people 
to  shoot  the  animal ;  many  shots  followed  the  command,  and 
a  bullet  lodged  in  the  brain  of  their  furioua adversary,  settling 
him  forever.  This  unlucky  hunt,  which  had  cost  a  life  each 
day  of  its  continuance,  was  now  given  up,  and  the  hunters, 
after  burying  the  corpse  of  their  mangled  comrade,  turned 


122  THE  LION. 

sorrowfully  homeward,  bearing  their  wounded  chief  by 
turns. 

Yet  courageous  and  fierce  as  this  king  of  the  beasts  is  in 
general,  there  are  times  when  he  is  seized  with  panic,  and 
runs  away  from  the  danger  he  is  too  cowardly  to  meet.  A 
bushman  once  followed  a  heard  of  zebras,  and  had  suc- 
ceeded in  wounding  one  with  an  arrow,  when  he  made  the 
discovery  that  a  lion  was  hunting  the  same.  The  latter 
seemed  displeased  at  this  intrusion  on  his  forest  rights,  and 
was  evidently  disposed  to  chastise  the  bushman  for  poaching; 
but  as  he  approached  for  that  purpose,  ere  he  had  time  to 
execute  it,  the  poor  fellow  had  reached  a  tree  and  climbed 
up  into  the  thick  branches.  Leaving  the  zebras  to  go  where 
they  pleased,  this  lord  of  the  forest  seemed  to  care  for  no- 
thing but  to  punish  this  infringement  of  his  rights ;  he  fol- 
lowed the  culprit  to  the  tree,  roared  until  he  shook  the 
forest,  and  looked  with  angry  eyes  up  into  the  branches 
where  the  bushman  was  seated. 

At  last  he  lay  down,  as  if  prepared  to  keep  watch  through- 
out the  whole  night ;  nor  was  the  poor  man  in  the  tree  less 
vigilant ;  he  looked  down  from  his  leafy  covert,  but  his  ene- 
my was  still  there.  But  at  last  overcome  by  weariness  he 
fell  asleep  and  began  to  dream,  and  the  apprehensions 
which  had  filled  his  soul  whilst  waking,  left  their  painful 
shadows  on  it  whilst  sleeping.  He  thought  that  the  tree 
on  which  he  sat  was  torn  up  by  the  roots,  and  that  by  its 
fall  he  was  thrown  directly  into  the  lion's  mouth.  Affrighted 
by  this  vision,  he  started  and  lost  the  hold  he  had  hitherto 


THE  LION.  123 

maintained ;  he  fell  from  the  branch  and  came  down  with 
his  full  weight  on  the  lion's  back.  The  animal  sprang  up 
at  this  unexpected  greeting,  shook  off  the  burden  that  had 
so  unceremoniously  lighted  upo  i  him,  and  uttering  terrific 
roars,  ran  away  as  fast  as  his  legs  would  carry  him.  The 
bushman  lay  for  one  moment  completely  bewildered,  but 
recollection  soon  returned,  and  gathering  himself  up  as 
quickly  as  possible,  took  his  flight  in  the  contrary  direc- 
tion. 

How  forgetful  of  their  natural  ferocity,  and  friendly  these 
animals  are  with  men  when  they  need  their  help,  may  be 
learned  from  the  following  fact.  An  English  ship,  sailing 
on  the  coast  of  Malabar,  sent  a  boat's  crew  on  shore  for 
wood  and  water.  One  of  the  sailors  having  proceeded  so 
far  in  the  forest  as  to  lose  sight  of  his  companions,  saw,  to 
his  great  alarm,  a  lioness  within  a  few  steps  of  him ;  nor 
was  it  at  all  diminished  when  she  approached  him  at  a 
quick  pace.  But  fear  gave  place  to  astonishment  when  the 
creature  stretched  herself  at  his  feet,  looked  up  into  his 
eyes,  as  if  entreatingly,  and  then  turning  her  head,  looked 
up  into  a  tree  that  stood  a  short  distance  behind  her.  She 
repeated  this  many  times,  until  at  length  rising,  she  went 
to  the  same  tree,  and  appeared  by  her  looks  to  invite  the 
sailor  to  follow  her.  He  did  so,  and  there  sitting  among 
the  very  topmost  branches  he  saw  a  great  baboon,  holding 
two  little  animals  in  his  arms,  which  he  knew  at  once  were 
the  cubs  of  his  dangerous  petitioner.  It  would  have  been 
no  very  hard  matter  for  him  to  climb  the  tree,  and  drive 


124  THE  LION. 

the  baboon  from  his  place,  and  so  rescue  the  little  prison- 
ers, but  he  did  not  care  to  encounter  this  wily  adversary  too 
closely,  for  he  had  heard  too  many  tales  of  his  muscular 
strength  to  wish  for  an  embrace,  and  did  not  care  to  be  able 
to  tell  from  his  own  experience  how  dreadful  his  bite  was ; 
but  he  was  provided  with  an  axe,  and  thus  he  was  enabled 
to  gratify  the  appeal  of  his  mute  friend,  as  well  as  serve 
himself,  by  cutting  down  the  tree.  He  began  the  work  at 
once,  the  lioness  in  the  meantime  watched  him  and  the 
robber  of  her  young  alternately,  looking  straight  into  the 
eyes  of  each.  A  few  powerful  strokes,  and  the  tree  began 
to  totter — a  few  more,  and  it  fell  to  the  earth,  bringing  the 
baboon  with  it.  Scarcely  had  the  latter  reached  the  ground, 
until  the  watching  lioness,  making  a  powerful  spring,  had 
caught  and  torn  him  to  pieces,  then  having  first  licked  her 
recovered  young,  she  went  up  to  the  sailor,  and  began  to 
caress  him  in  the  same  manner  as  do  cats.  She  rubbed  her 
head  on  his  feet  and  knees  for  some  time,  looking  up  in  his 
face  as  if  to  thank  him  for  what  he  had  done,  then  taking 
up  one  of  her  cubs,  she  carried  it  into  the  thicket,  from 
whence  she  returned  quickly  for  the  other.  The  sailor  was 
so  confused  by  this  uncommon  scene,  that  when  he  returned 
to  the  spot  where  his  comrades  awaited  him,  he  was  unable 
to  utter  a  word,  and  it  was  some  time  before  he  could  tell 
them  what  had  happened. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact,  that  few  of  the  ravenous  animals 
can  be  tamed  as  completely  as  the  lion.  The  celebrated 
Martin  has  succeeded  in  making  them  docile  as  dogs,  teach- 


THE  LION.  125 

ing  the  largest  and  strongest  of  them  to  play  all  kind  of" 
tricks,  and  training  them  to  such  obedience  that  he  could 
take  the  food,  given  them  when  very  hungry,  away  from 
their  mouths,  without  their  exhibiting  any  resentment.  Yet 
examples  are  not  wanting  in  which  the  best  tamed  animals, 
forgetful  of  the  love  they  have  for  their  keeper,  have  killed 
him  in  a  fit  of  their  natural  ferocity. 

Such  an  instance  occurred  in  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century  in  Dresden,  to  the  keeper  of  a  lion,  whom  he  fed 
daily,  and  was  in  the  habit  of  playing  with.  This  inter- 
course between  the  keeper  and  his  charge  continued  for  a 
long  time,  during  which  the  lion  exhibited  every  mark  of 
attachment  for  his  master,  who  went  in  and  out  of  his  den 
without  fear — in  short,  the  most  friendly  intercourse  sub- 
sisted between  them.  When  the  animal  was  to  be  fed,  he 
always  received  his  food  from  the  same  hand,  namely,  that 
of  his  master,  and  on  these  occasions  his  dress  was  always 
the  same — a  green  jacket  was  constantly  worn.  But  on  the 
evening  of  one  holiday,  when  rather  late  for  the  feeding  time, 
he  made  his  appearance  in  the  dress  he  had  worn  through- 
out the  day  instead  of  the  well  known  jerkin.  The  anger  of 
the  lion  was  aroused ;  he  did  not  recognise  his  benefactor 
in  the  strange  black  coat,  but  springing  suddenly  upon  him, 
buried  his  claws  in  the  unhappy  man's  shoulder ;  the  latter 
spoke  to  him  kindly,  and  the  well  known  voice  seemed  to 
recall  the  lion  to  himself,  yet  he  could  not  be  brought  to 
submission  at  once — that  strange  dress  still  made  him  sus- 
picious, and  he  would  not  release  him  from  his  grasp.  In 


126  THE  LION. 

the  meantime  the  alarm  had  been  given,  and  the  wife  and 
children  of  the  keeper  screaming  loudly,  hastened  to  the 
spot.  Their  cries  awakened  the  attention  of  the  soldiers 
who  kept  guard  before  the  castle ;  they  were  soon  ready  to 
shoot  the  furious  creature,  but  the  keeper  still  hoping  to 
mollify  him,  begged  them  to  retain  their  fire,  whilst  he  still 
attempted  to  soothe.  All  was  in  vain — the  lion  continued 
to  shake  his  mane,  and  lash  with  his  tail,  still  holding  his 
unhappy  victim  in  his  grasp,  and  gazing  on  him  with  wild 
and  angry  eyes.  Not  able  to  bear  the  weight  of  his  power- 
ful adversary  any  longer,  the  wretched  man  at  length  called 
out  to  the  soldiers  to  fire.  They  did  so,  and  killed  the  ani- 
mal on  the  spot ;  but  in  the  death-struggle,  he  pressed  his 
fearful  paws  so  closely  round  the  keeper's  body,  that  spine 
and  breast  were  crushed  together,  and  the  poor  man 
breathed  out  his  spirit  at  the  same  moment  his  enemy  ceased 
to  exist. 


A  Baltic 


ttntij  n 


ONE  evening,  after  a  fatiguing  chase,  a  company  of  hunters 
were  assembled  round  a  well  spread  table  in  the  castle  be- 
longing to  one  of  the  party,  where,  as  they  enjoyed  the 
viands  and  circulated  the  bottle,  they  cheated  the  hour  with 
merry  tales  and  jests.  They  passed  through  all  the  grades 
of  hunting  life  —  from  narratives  of  hare,  and  hound,  and 
bird,  to  the  more  exciting  themes  of  the  chamois  chase  or 
bear  hunt,  and  as  they  proceeded,  the  interest  grew  more 
and  more  absorbing,  as  the  tales  were  those  of  adventure 
and  danger.  Among  those  jolly  sportsmen  was  one  named 
Robert,  who,  seemingly  devoted  to  the  good  fare  he  was 
enjoying,  had  until  now  sat  silent,  listening  with  stoical 
indifference  to  the  wonderful  relations  of  perils  and  hair- 
breadth escapes  told  by  his  companions.  He  was  an  old 
man,  perhapp  ^  sixty  years  —  his  life  was  one  which  must 
have  afforded  opportunity  for  scenes  of  strange  adventure, 
but  he  was  rather  an  apathetic  person,  and  could  but 
seldom  be  induced  to  speak  of  scenes  through  which  he  had 


"What  now,  Master  Robert?"  said  one  of  the  boon  com- 
panions, when  the  lively  conversation  they  were  carrying  on 

(12T) 


128  A  BATTLE  WITH  A  TIGER. 

had  come  to  a  few  moment's  pause ;  "  have  you  nothing  to 
add  to  the  general  stock  ?  Me  thinks  such  a  life  as  yours 
has  been,  ought  to  afford  material  enough  for  many  a  strange 
tale,  with  which  you  might  cheat  the  time  on  such  an  occa- 
sion as  this." 

"I  do  not  know  anything  worth  telling,"  said  the  old 
man.  But  scarcely  had  he  uttered  the  words,  when  a  change 
was  observed  to  pass  over  his  face,  he  raised  his  head  as  if 
struck  by  some  sudden  remembrance,  and  his  features  indi- 
cated that  the  recollection  was  one  of  horror. 

"  It  is  nothing,  my  friends,  it  is  nothing,"  he  answered 
to  their  inquiries  if  he  was  ill ;  "  it  is  only  from  the  remem- 
brance— and  it  always  brings  on  a  chill — of  something  that 
happened  to  me  thirty  years  ago.  When  you  hear  it,  your  blood 
will  not  flow  more  warmly  than  my  own  ;  the  very  thought 
of  the  circumstance,  which  I  will  relate  to  you,  makes  the 
little  hair  belonging  to  my  old  head,  even  now  rise  up  on 
end.  My  comrade,  he  who  played  the  first  part  in  this 
strange  drama,  was  an  Englishman ;  I  made  his  acquaint- 
ance in  eighteen  hundred  and  fourteen,  in  Bengal,  where 
the  regiment  in  which  he  was  a  captain  was  stationed.  He 
was  no  common  man,  although  at  the  time  I  speak  of,  he 
was  but  the  shadow  of  his  former  self,  yet  he  still  possessed 
great  strength,  and  bore  the  traces  of  having  had  the  mus- 
cular power  of  an  Athlete.  And  even  now,  though  greatly 
diminished  by  the  toil  and  hardship  of  years,  he  was  able 
to  perform  feats  of  uncommon  activity,  and  exhibit  great 
strength  of  body  when  occasion  demanded,  and  his  reputa- 


A   BATTLE    WITH    A    TIGER.  129 

tion  for  bravery  in  battle  and  skill  in  the  chase,  was  une- 
qualled by  that  of  any  other. 

"  The  captain  and  myself  were  passengers  in  the  same 
ship,  from.  Calcutta  to  Batavia.  After  a  tedious  voyage, 
and  long  before  we  reached  our  place  of  destination,  owing 
to  want  of  a  fair  wind,  or  some  other  cause — at  this  distance 
of  time  I  cannot  remember — we  were  obliged  to  cast  anchor 
on  the  coast.  The  large  boat  was  manned,  and  ordered  to 
row  to  the  shore  to  procure  a  supply  of  fresh  water,  of 
which  we  were  in  need  ;  the  captain  and  myself  resolved  to 
accompany  the  sailors ;  and  accordingly,  after  the  empty 
water  casks  had  been  placed  aboard,  and  we  had  plentifully 
supplied  ourselves  with  every  requisite  for  a  good  meal,  we 
took  our  places  with  the  rowers,  and  speedily  reached  the 
land.  By  some  accident  or  carelessness  in  landing,  the 
bottom  came  out  of  one  of  the  empty  tuns,  and  the  sailors 
had  left  it  on  the  shore  whilst  they  went  further  up  in  quest 
of  springs  from  which  the  remaining  casks  should  be  filled. 
We  wandered  about  at  full  liberty,  until  weariness  reminded 
us  of  its  presence,  and  hunger  forced  us  to  think  of  meal 
time ;  and  with  two  such  urgent  admonishers  to  drive  us  to  what 
was  by  no  means  distasteful,  we  began  to  look  around  for  a 
convenient  place  where  we  might  breakfast.  But  this  was 
not  so  easy  a  matter  as  might  be  supposed.  Not  a  tree  was 
there  to  protect  us  with  its  shadow,  and  the  sun  was  fierce- 
ly hot.  At  last  the  captain,  who  "was  never  at  a  loss  for 
an  expedient,  pointed  to  the  empty  tun,  and  we  rolled  it  to 
the  spot  that  seemed  most  convenient.  It  answered  the 
9 


130  A   BATTLE  WITH   A    TIGER. 

purpose  for  which  we  had  brought  it  admirably,  serving  at 
the  same  time  for  screen  and  divan ;  and  so,  nicely  pro- 
tected, we  went  to  work  at  once  on  our  provision.  The  cold 
fowl  had  suffered  considerably  from  the  inroads  made  upon 
it,  the  ham  diminished  visibly  under  the  vigorous  applica- 
tion of  our  knives,  and  as  all  this  was  washed  down  with  a 
tolerable  modicum  of  good  wine,  the  invigorating  odor  of 
which  inspired  us,  when  the  feast  was  ended,  to  continue 
our  enjoyment  by  drinking  toasts.  They  were  eloquent  of 
our  feelings  indeed  ;  and  after  we  had  exhausted  the  list  of 
our  relatives  and  friends,  we  began  to  cast  about  in  our 
memories  for  some  other,  but  most  remote  objects  of  hom- 
age ;  the  captain  at  length  remembered  a  gran  J-nephew  or 
cousin,  who  lived  in  far  distant  Scotland,  and  on  whom  he 
had  never  before  thought  since  he  left  his  home.  We  were 
glad  to  have  remembered  him,  for  we  wanted  to  drink  the 
toasts,  and  we  did  so.  We  pledged  each  other  to  the  health 

of  this  far  off  cousin,  when permit  me,  gentlemen,  here 

to  make  a  short  pause.  It  is  now  thirty  years  since  I  heard 
that  terrible  cry,  the  herald  of  the  adventure  I  now  relate 
to  you ;  yet  still  it  rings  in  my  ear,  that  fearful  shriek ; 
there  is  no  human  tone  to  which  it  can  at  all  be  likened. 

"  The  captain  conquered  his  visible  consternation  so  far 
as  to  call  out,  <  Take  care  of  yourself,  Robert !'  With  that 
he  made  a  spring,  the  activity  of  which  would  have  done 
honor  to  some  mountain  goat,  or  spirit  out  of  some  English 
romance, — where  the  latter  are  made  to  come  and  go  like 
rays  of  light, — and  stood  on  his  feet  behind  the  empty  tun. 


A   BATTLE   WITH  A   TIGER.  131 

By  good  luck  I  had  sufficient  time  to  jump  up  too,  and  take 
my  place  by  the  side  of  my  friend,  before  the  frightful  cause 
of  our  sudden  and  prudent  manoeuvre  presented  itself,  -which 
it  did  in  close  neighborhood,  and  in  the  form  of  a  royal 
liger. 

"  And  now  the  frightful  contest  was  to  begin.  Neither 
of  us,  the  captain,  the  tiger,  or  myself,  had  ever  before 
found  ourselves  in  a  similar  condition.  The  waste  was  our 
battle-field,  an  empty  water  cask  our  rampart,  our  only 
weapons  our  dexterity,  which  we  managed  in  manoeuvring 
round  our  tun,  in  a  manner  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe. 
A  faint  hope  sprung  up  within  us,  and  made  us  believe  that 
the  tiger  would  fall  upon  the  meal  we  had  left,  and  so  satisfy 
his  appetite  as  to  disdain  the  ruder  fare  of  human  flesh. 
Two  minutes  delay  beside  the  stores  from  which  we  had  so 
unceremoniously  risen,  would  perhaps  have  given  us  time  to 
collect  our  thoughts,  and  plan  some  movement  of  defence. 
Vain  hope  !  His  savage  glance  pierced  through  our  very 
souls  ;  we  were  the  only  booty  after  which  he  longed. 

"  A  considerable  time  passed,  during  which  we  continued 
our  evolutions  round  the  tun,  our  only  wall  of  defence. 
But  such  exertions  soon  exhausted  the  sum  of  human 
strength ;  a  few  moments  more,  and  the  captain  and  myself 
must  yield  to  the  enemy,  with  whom  we  no  longer  had 
the  force  to  contend.  By  good  luck,  the  animal  had  less 
patience  than  ourselves,  and  his  irritable  nature  began  to 
show  itself.  It  was  plain  he  was  tired  of  these  useless  gam- 
bols. In  one  moment  he  stood  motionless,  as  though  he 


132  A  BATTLE  WITH  A  TIGER. 

was  meditating  on  some  important  movement.  Mustering 
all  his  strength  for  an  onset,  he  made  a  sudden  spring,  as 
if  determined  to  overcome  every  hindrance  that  opposed  his 
reaching  us.  I  had  but  one  thought,  the  certainty  of  death, 
and  I  fell  upon  my  knees.  One  moment  later,  astonished 
to  find  that  I  was  still  in  this  breathing  world,  I  heard  the 
Toice  of  my  friend  calling  out,  *  Robert,  jump  up  here — 
quick.'  Our  good  star  was  in  the  ascendant,  and  had  so 
disposed  it,  that  the  tun  was  standing  with  the  bottom  on 
the  ground,  and  the  opening  left  by  the  broken  head  up- 
wards. As  the  tiger  sprang  against  it,  it  rolled,  and  my 
resolute  and  courageous  friend,  who  had  not  lost  his  pre- 
sence of  mind  for  a  moment,  now  gave  the  tottering  cask 
such  a  direction  that  it  turned  directly  over  our  savage 
enemy.  The  tiger  now  found  himself  in  a  narrow  cage, 
and  dark,  except  for  the  light  that  came  through  the  bung- 
hole.  But  how  to  keep  him  there  ?  My  friend  did  not 
take  much  time  to  consider,  but  with  the  same  quickness 
that  characterized  all  his  movements,  he  sprung  up  on  the 
top  of  his  fortress,  whither  I  climbed  also  as  soon  as  I  fairly 
recovered  my  recollection ;  and  there  we  both  stood,  hoping 
by  our  united  weight  to  keep  it  down,  and  our  terrible 
enemy  a  prisoner,  More  mature  consideration  showed  us 
that  we  had  not  improved  our  condition  ;  we  had  no  means 
of  communicating  with  the  sailors,  who  had  gone  further  up 
the  coast,  and  it  was  impossible  that  we  could  long  remain 
on  top  of  this  wooden  citadel,  under  which  growled  an 


A  BATTLE  WITH  A  TIGER.  133 

enemy  who  was  sure  to  become  our  master  the  moment  we 
left  it. 

"  The  sun  was  declining,  and  as  he  gradually  sunk  to- 
wards the  west,  so  did  our  hopes  of  rescue.  Although  the 
small  space  in  which  our  enemy  found  himself  enclosed 
afforded  no  room  for  exercising  his  muscular  strength,  the 
dull  roaring  and  grumbling  we  heard  from  beneath  our  feet 
reminded  us  of  a  volcano  ready  for  an  eruption.  We  stood 
upon  our  tun  as  over  a  mine  which  might  burst  in  a  moment. 
The  resolute  expression  of  the  captain's  features  was  changed 
to  one  of  uncertainty,  which  he  vainly  tried  to  conceal.  But 
all  at  once  his  countenance  altered,  a  smile  lighted  up  his 
pale  face,  and  he  laid  his  forefinger  on  his  lip  as  if  to  cau- 
tion me  to  silence.  He  bent  his  knee,  and  stretched  forth 
his  arm  as  cautiously  as  though  he  were  fishing  for  trout  in 
some  American  lake,  and  before  I  could  question  him  what 
he  meant  by  the  movement,  he  was  again  standing  upright, 
and  I  saw  the  monster's  tail  in  his  hand  ;  he  had  pulled  it 
through  the  bung  hole,  just  as  he  would  have  handled  a 
ship's  rope,  and  now  dragged  at  it  with  all  the  strength  he 
could  master.  I  assisted  him  in  this  manoeuvre  as  well  as 
I  could.  It  was  true  that  while  we  had  the  wooden  wall 
between  ourselves  and  the  tiger,  he  would  not  be  able  to 
harm  us.  And  now  we  really  began  to  count  on  him  as  a 
treasure,  if  we  could  only  succeed  in  dragging  him  to  the 
place  where  we  knew  we  might  expect  help  from  the  sailors 
we  had  left ;  we  thought  it  possible  to  secure  him  alive,  and 
place  him  in  'Le  Jardin  des  Plantes,'  in  Paris,  or  the 


134  A  BATTLE  WITH  A  TIGER. 

*  Zoological  Garden'  in  London,  with  the  usual  inscription 
above  his  cage :  *  Royal  Tiger,  presented  by  Capt.  M.  and 
Mr.  Robert.'  That  our  thoughts  were  precisely  the  same, 
I  have  little  doubt,  but  we  did  not  express  them  to  each 
other  ;  the  impression  was  too  momentary,— we  had  enough 
to  do  in  thinking  of  the  possibility  of  otir  deliverance. 

"  With  great  caution  we  dismounted  from  our  tun ;  but 
we  soon  found  we  had  reckoned  without  our  host,  and  over- 
rated our  own  strength.  For,  although  by  pulling  its  tail  to 
its  very  root  through  the  bung  hole,  we  had  deprived  the 
tiger  of  the  use  of  his  hind  legs,  instead  of  our  regulating 
his  movement  in  the  direction  we  wished,  he  dragged  us 
after  him  according  to  his  pleasure.  All  our  efforts  to  keep 
him  in  one  place,  or  draw  him  towards  the  shore,  were  una- 
vailing ;  he  took  his  course  for  the  interior,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  follow.  In  this  way  we  had  gone  a  mile  from 
the  spot  where  our  meal  had  been  so  unceremoniously  dis- 
turbed, the  captain  still  holding  the  tail  between  his  clenched 
hands,  and  I  clinging  closely  round  the  body  of  my  friend, 
and  pulling  with  all  my  might  and  main.  And  now,  gentle- 
men, at  this  point  in  my  story,  truth  obliges  me  to  make  a 
confession,  and  I  blush  while  I  do  so.  I  can  show  you 
through  the  same,  what  miserable  beings  we  men  are  when 
the  question  of  life  and  our  own  interest  comes  in  competi- 
tion with  the  claims  of  friendship  or  justice.  Yes,  I  must 
confess  to  you  the  devilish  thought  that  flashed  upon  my 
soul :  I  felt  myself  tempted  to  fly  and  leave  my  companion, 
to  whom  I  was  indebted  for  being  at  that  moment  still  in 


A  BATTLE  WITH  A  TIGER.     135 

life,  to  the  fate  that  was  certain  to  await  him  on  my  defec- 
tion. I  have  no  other  excuse  to  make  for  my  own  justifica- 
tion than  to  say,  that  if  I  had  had  the  tiger's  tail  in  my 
hand,  and  my  comrade  behind  me  clinging  to  my  coat,  with 
all  the  chances  of  life  in  his  favor,  he  would  most  likely  have 
had  the  same  thought  as  that  which  tempted  me. 

Some  inequalities  of  the  ground,  and  many  hindrances 
from  the  roots  of  trees,  very  much  diminished  the  speed  of 
our  journey,  and  without  doubt  the  delay  thus  caused  ena- 
bled my  prudent  friend  to  seize  upon  an  idea  which  never 
could  have  entered  into  the  mind  of  any  one  less  active 
than  himself.  The  plan  which  he  hit  upon,  and  originated 
solely  with  himself,  I  would  recommend  to  every  one  who, 
in  travelling,  finds  himself  in  such  critical  circumstances  as 
we  were  at  that  time.  I  recommend  also  the  following 
means  of  deliverance.  If  any  man  in  a  desert  place,  and 
followed  by  a  tiger,  is  so  successful  as  to  imprison  the  wild 
beast  under  a  tun — the  upper  end  of  which  is  closed — hath 
that  same  man  found  means  to  pull  the  tail  of  that  aforesaid 
beast,  like  a  rope,  through  the  bung  hole,  thus  holding  him 
fast  as  with  a  cramping  iron,  at  the  same  time  keeping  the 
tun  between  his  enemy  and  himself.  If  hereupon  it  be  ob- 
served that  the  animal,  stronger  than  the  man  himself,  is 
dragging  the  whole  concern  his  own  way,  and  the  man  has 
no  idea  when  he  may  halt,  for  the  reason  that  he  has  no 
idea  of  what  the  aforesaid  beast  may  choose,  the  best  thing 
he  can  do  is  to  tie  a  knot  in  the  above  mentioned  tail,  so 
large  that  he  cannot  slip  it  through  the  bung  hole  when  the 


136  A   BATTLE  WITH  A   TIGER. 

man  relinquishes  his  hold.  If  this  is  properly  done,  the 
animal  will  still  proceed,  dragging  his  prison  after  him,  and 
not  knowing  that  the  man,  who  has  thus  an  opportunity  to 
escape,  has  fled. 

"This  bold  expedient  was  adopted  by  the  captain,  and 
truly  with  distinguished  success.  Scarcely  had  the  knot 
been  made  in  the  tail  of  the  tiger,  ere  my  friend  command- 
ed me  to  yell  in  the  most  frightful  manner ;  and  never  did  a 
troop  of  savages  utter  a  concert  of  more  inharmonious 
sounds  than  those  we  now  sent  forth  from  full  throats.  For 
want  of  other  instruments  to  add  to  the  discordance,  I 
shattered  two  flasks  of  rum  I  had  in  my  pocket  against  the 
tun ;  and  then  releasing  our  hold  on  the  tail,  we  had  the 
happiness  to  see  our  plan  succeed,  and  our  enemy  dash  on, 
pursued  by  as  great  terror  as  his  presence  inflicted  on  our- 
selves. Our  cries  increased  or  diminished  in  proportion  to 
the  swiftness  of  his  flight, — and  it  was  so  rapid  that  it  was 
not  long  until  we  lost  sight  of  him  altogether. 

"  With  what  joy  we  found  ourselves  once  more  on  the 
beach  with  our  companions.  The  sailors  had  sought  us 
everywhere ;  and  as  night  was  coming  on,  and  all  their 
efforts  to  find  us  had  proved  vain,  they  began  to  fear  some 
disaster  had  befallen  us.  As  they  saw  the  traces  of  the 
tiger's  feet  on  the  sand,  and  the  debris  of  our  disturbed 
meal  strewed  around,  they  concluded  we  had  fallen  a  prey 
to  the  savage  beast,  and  so  were  about  to  .put  off  for  the 
ship. 

"  As  soon  as  we  were  all  on  board,  the  captain  and  crew 


A  BATTLE  WITH  A  TIGER.  137 

collected  round  us,  and  we  told  them  of  our  adventure,  and 
showed  them  the  hair  of  the  tiger,  which  was  yet  adhering 
to  our  hands.  My  friend  was  lauded  for  ingenuity,  and 
overwhelmed  with  compliments  of  the  most  flattering  kind. 
As  for  myself,  in  consequence  of  the  great  fright  I  had 
suffered,  I  fell  into  a  dangerous  sickness — a  brain  fever,  I 
suppose — for  a  time  I  was  completely  out  of  my  senses. 
Whilst  in  this  state — and  it  was  a  long  time — the  atten- 
dants could  not  keep  me  quiet  in  any  other  way  than  by 
tying  a  thick  rope  by  one  end  to  the  foot  of  the  bed,  and 
giving  me  the  other  to  hold  in  my  hand.  I  passed  many 
hours  thus,  as  though  determined  fully  to  pursue  the 
captain's  experiment.  But  as  I  approached  to  convales- 
cence, my  physician  ordered  that  a  smaller  cord  should  take 
the  place  of  the  rope  ;  and  I  amused  myself  for  a  long  time 
by  tying  knots  in  this.  At  last  I  recovered ;  but  my  re- 
turn to  health  was  very  slow,  and  since  then  an  apathetic 
indifference,  for  which  you  gentlemen  have  often  reproached 
me,  has  taken  the  place  of  my  former  reckless  gaiety.  You 
can  now  comprehend  why  I  lend  such  a  listless  ear  to  tales 
of  common  hunting  exploits,  and  why  I  make  so  little  ac- 
count of  what  relates  to  the  taking  of  rabbits  and  hares." 

Mr.  Robert  had  finished  his  story,  and  nothing  more  was 
related  of  common  sports  at  the  hunter's  feast  that  day- 
Ills  adventure  had  thrown  all  the  rest  into  deep  shade. 


&  Ituttttg  aimtm  in  tjri  <0nit  Sniua. 

I  HAD  had  many  adventures  in  the  forests  of  the  East 
Indies,  where  I  lived  for  many  years,  but  nothing  that  hefel 
me  savoured  half  as  much  of  romance  as  that  which  occurred 
to  my  friend  Holm.  We  had  arrived  in  Madras  about  the 
same  time,  and  after  having  lived  together  for  many  years, 
were  only  separated  by  his  being  ordered  to  Darwar,  and 
myself  to  Bangalore.  Having  received  a  furlough,  after  an 
absence  of  two  years,  to  visit  Bangalore,  I  met  him  once 
more,  and  it  was  on  this  occasion  he  related  the  following 
adventure,  which,  however  seemingly  improbable,  he  declared 
to  be  true. 

He  had  once — so  he  said — pitched  his  tent  at  the  foot  of 
the  rocky  and  sterile  hill  that  rises  above  the  ancient  for- 
tress of  Drug.  After  spending  the  early  part  of  the  day  in 
surveying  this  fastness,  the  dwelling-place  of  the  Rajah  of 
Mysore,  and  one  of  the  strongest  forts  in  all  India,  he  deter- 
mined to  devote  the  long  afternoon  that  was  before  him  to 
the  chase,  for  he  was  a  clever  sportsman,  and  the  best  shot 
in  his  regiment.  At  that  time  there  was  no  garrison  in  the 
place,  for  although  the  situation  was  beautiful,  and  the  land- 
scape around  singularly  romantic  and  picturesque,  it  was 
looked  upon  as  a  spot  particularly  unhealthy.  Water  is  not 

(138) 


ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES.     139 

to  be  had  in  sufficient  quantity,  and  what  there  is  of  bad 
quality,  and  the  plain  which  stretches  ten  English  miles 
from  north  to  south,  consists  of  a  black,  soft,  spongy  soil, 
which  the  natives  call  "  cotton  earth,"  and  insist  that  it  is 
prolific  in  engendering  pestilence  and  plague.  According 
to  the  ancient  custom  of  Asiatic  fortification,  this  strong- 
hold is  encompassed  by  many  walls,  each  one  enclosing  the 
other,  so  that  the  outer  may  be  taken  by  stratagem  or  force, 
without  the  dwellers  inside  the  castle  ever  dreaming  of 
danger. 

On  the  sultry  afternoon  of  the  day  already  spoken  of, 
Holm  directed  his  steps  towards  a  thicket  that  lay  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  plain.  He  had  instructed  his  servants 
not  to  expect  him  before  dark,  but,  during  his  absence,  to 
get  everything  in  readiness  for  decampment  at  the  early 
dawn. 

"I  had,"  continued  my  friend,  in  his  further  relation, 
"  taken  a  young  native  lad  with  me,  and  was  a  little  aston- 
ished when  the  fellow  utterly  refused  to  follow  me  in  a  cer- 
tain direction — he  insisted  that  tigers  and  panthers  harbored 
thickly  in  that  place.  Notwithstanding  this  obstinacy,  the 
boy  rendered  me  good  service,  and  my  hunting  succeeded  so 
well,  that  before  five  o'clock  I  had  killed  several  bustards, 
a  brace  of  hares,  and  another  large  bird  with  a  most  singu- 
lar name  and  beautiful  plumage.  I  gave  the  latter  to  my 
dark  hued  companion,  and  great  was  his  joy  at  becoming 
its  possessor — the  rest  I  stuffed  into  my  game  bag,  and  as  1 
did  not  wish  to  return  to  the  tent  at  this  early  hour,  I  sent 


140     ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES. 

the  boy,  after  he  had  directed  me  what  course  to  take,  to 
carry  the  spoils  to  my  servants,  that  they  might  prepare 
them  before  my  return. 

As  soon  as  he  left  me  I  threw  myself  down  on  the  grass 
to  rest,  among  which  thousands  of  bright  hued  flowers 
breathed  forth  their  fragrant  odors.  Here,  beneath  the 
blue  sky  of  India,  refreshed  by  those  soft  perfumes,  and 
fanned  by  the  cool  breeze  of  the  advancing  evening,  I  should 
have  lain,  indulging  in  sweet  waking  dreams,  and  building 
castles  in  the  air,  until  it  was  time  to  return  to  my  tent, 
had  not  the  discordant  scream  of  a  peacock  just  behind  me 
disturbed  the  bright  visions  that  were  floating  over  my  soul. 
I  raised  myself  up  to  look  at  this  bird  of  Juna — the  glorious 
creature  raised  itself  for  flight,  and  although  it  swung  with 
unsteady  vibration  scarcely  two  feet  above  the  earth,  it  con- 
tinued to  do  so  until  it  had  nearly  reached  the  wood. 

"  Shall  I  seek  after  the  vein  of  gold,"  thought  I,  "or 
shall  I  pursue  the  wise  bird  that,  unlike  man,  avoids  it?" 
for  at  that  moment  I  remembered  a  popular  superstition 
among  the  Hindoos,  namely,  that  the  peacock  has  such  an 
abhorrence  of  gold,  that  in  spite  of  its  reluctance  to  fly,  and 
notwithstanding  its  unwieldy  and  difficult  movements  when 
attempting  the  same,  it  yet  never  passes  over  the  spot  where 
gold  is  buried,  otherwise  than  by  flight ;  it  never  touches 
with  its  feet  the  earth  where  the  dangerous  ore,  for  which 
man  often  pollutes  his  hands  and  perils  his  soul,  is  hidden. 
I  thought,  too,  of  the  common  belief,  the  truth  of  which  was 
attested  by  every  day's  experience,  that  where  "  peacocks 
sojourn,  there  tigers  dwell." 


ADVENTUKE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES.     141 

But  then  I  had  never  shot  a  peacock,  and  the  love  of  the 
chase  predominating  over  prudence,  I  dismissed  my  plea- 
sant visions,  and  gathering  myself  up,  I  left  my  delightful 
resting  place,  and  was  deeply  buried  in  the  recesses  of  the 
wood  before  I  remembered  that  it  was  the  very  spot  to 
which  my  Indian  boy  had  refused  to  guide  me. 

Twice  I  had  started  the  beautiful  bird — twice  I  had  him 
within  range  of  my  bullet ;  and  now,  certain  of  succeeding, 
I  stepped  across  a  deep  gulley,  through  which  a  small  rivulet 
trickled,  and  over  which  he  had  gone,  when  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  some  foot-marks  on  the  soft  sand.  My 
eye  was  frozen  to  the  spot — these  traces  were  the  unmis- 
takable impressions  made  by  the  tread  of  a  panther.  As  I 
knew  that  in  spots  like  this — deep  dells,  where  cool  shadows 
and  rivulets  invited  even  man  to  repose — it  was  that  the 
leopard  and  wild  cat  chooses  to  fix  his  lair,  I  had  no  mind  to 
intrude,  so  I  gave  up  the  chase  after  the  peacock,  and  resolved 
to  retrace  my  steps  as  rapidly  as  possible.  I  had  not  mea- 
sured forty  paces  on  my  backward  path,  when  a  loud  roar- 
ing plainly  heralded  that  danger  was  near.  And  it  was 
close  by ;  in  the  very  direction  in  which  I  was  proceeding, 
I  saw  a  pair  of  fiery  balls  glaring  upon  me  from  between 
the  flower  laden  branches  of  an  acacia.  They  were  the 
eyes  of  a  crouching  panther,  that,  meditating  a  leap  upon 
me,  was  beating,  in  token  of  his  hostile  intention,  upon  the 
earth  with  his  tail. 

As  nearly  as  I  could  calculate,  the  animal  was  at  the  dis- 
tance of  two  leaps  off.  My  fowling  piece  was  loaded,  but 


tt*. 


142    ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES. 

not  with  ball;  on  my  right  hand  was  an  open  space,  that 
ended  in  a  dense  pine  thicket  that  had  every  appearance  of 
having  been  lately  overflowed ;  for  as  far  as  I  could  see, 
from  this  spot  as  well  as  between  the  trees,  the  grass  had 
been  washed  away,  and  the  branches  and  twigs  with  which 
the  ground  was  plentifully  strewed,  showed  that  they  had 
been  made  acquainted  with  the  mud  of  the  brook.  One 
glance  was  sufficient  to  convince  me  that  the  trunk  of  the 
nearest  tree  must  be  my  place  of  refuge ;  yet,  at  the  same 
time  that  I  almost  despaired  of  reaching  it  before  the  panther 
made  his  assault  upon  me,  instead  of  proceeding  in  the 
direction  from  whence  I  came,  I  made  a  sudden  spring  to 
the  right,  and  in  the  next  moment  I  had  reached  the  desired 
spot.  In  doing  so,  however,  I  met  with  a  new  and  unex- 
pected danger ; — for  as  I  rested  one  moment  on  the 
ground  that  lay  between  me  and  the  tree,  I  found  that  the 
leaf  strewn  soil  on  which  I  stood  was  giving  way,  and  grad- 
ually caving  in.  I  found  myself  half  buried  in  a  pit-fall. 
At  the  next  moment  the  pursuing  panther  was  following  in 
the  path  I  had  left  but  one  moment  before ;  and  in  another, 
he  stepped  on  the  insecure  foundation  which  had  proved  so 
faithless  to  me.  He  made  a  leap,  the  huge  beast,  and 
alighted  one  foot  beyond  the  border  of  the  pitfall  where  I 
lay ;  but  scarcely  had  his  feet  touched  the  treacherous  su- 
perstructure, ere  it  gave  way.  He  fell  backwards ;  but  still 
held  fast  to  the  edge  of  the  ditch — if  so  it  may  be 
called — by  his  fore  paws,  while  he  turned  his  head  towards 
me,  and  blew  his  hot  and  offensive  breath  full  into  my  face. 


ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES.    143 

As  if  bound  by  some  frightful  spell  of  enchantment,  in  my 
first  amazement  I  gazed  upon  the  fearful  animal,  and  the 
blood  froze  within  my  veins ;  the  huge  and  fearful  frame,  as 
it  hung  over  the  side  of  the  pit,  the  red  eyes  that  glared 
upon  me  with  blood-thirsty  fury,  the  foam  covered  jaws  that 
wide  open  disclosed  a  throat  ready  to  devour,  and  from 
which  issued  a  low  savage  growl  that  sounded  like  a  threat 
of  vengeance,  filled  me  with  horror,  and  well  nigh  deprived 
me  of  the  power  of  thought.  At  last  he  succeeded  in  rising 
out  of  the  cavity  in  which  he  had  fallen.  I  knew  that  when 
he  was  once  free,  my  last  hour  had  come.  I  mustered  up 
what  strength  I  could,  and  raising  my  fowling-piece,  which 
was  ready  loaded,  and  I  had  not  parted  from,  I  aimed  it 
between  those  glaring  eyes  that  still  rested  on  me,  and 
fired.  With  a  frightful  yell  the  panther  fell  back  into  the 
hollow ;  and  exhausted  with  terror  and  the  efforts  I  had 
made,  I  sunk  upon  my  knees  and  uttered  a  prayer  of  sin- 
cerest  gratitude  to  heaven  for  my  wonderful  escape. 

But  there  was  no  time  for  delay,  for  the  evening  was 
coming  on,  and  the  shadows  cast  by  the  tall  trees  had  in- 
creased to  almost  gigantic  length.  In  my  chase  after  the 
peacock  I  had  wandered  so  far  into  the  wood  that  I  had 
completely  lost  my  way.  Yet  I  went  forward  until  I  found 
I  was  getting  more  and  more  astray ;  path  nor  footmark 
was  nowhere  to  be  seen.  I  stood  still  to  consider  what  was 
to  be  done.  The  sun  was  setting,  and  his  golden  rays,  like 
a  troop  of  radiant  spirits  flitting  between  the  lofty  trees, 
and  playing  among  the  dark  green  foliage,  reminded  me 


144      ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES. 

that  I  had  come  from  west  to  east,  and  that  I  must  turn 
my  face  towards  the  sunset  horizon,  above  which  Night's 
dusky  brow  was  now  plainly  visible.  But  the  thicket  be- 
came more  dense,  the  trees  stood  closer ;  and  as  I  held  on 
my  way,  I  found  it  full  of  innumerable  clefts  and  pitholds, 
which,  covered  with  dry  branches,  swept  over  them  by  tem- 
pest and  tornado,  and  strewn  with  leaves,  made  procedure 
extremely  dangerous.  I  felt  myself  to  be  in  a  situation  not 
only  very  uncomfortable  but  highly  perilous.  I  wandered  on- 
ward, until  I  found  myself  at  the  entrance  of  a  kind  of  cav- 
ern, but  dreading  it  might  be  the  lair  of  a  panther,  or  some 
other  ferocious  animal,  I  turned  away  and  began  to  ascend 
a  little  hillock  that,  covered  with  soft  moss  and  creeping 
vines,  I  judged  might  form  the  roof  of  the  cave,  if  such  the 
hollow  space  below  might  be  called.  The  acclivity,  although 
not  high,  was  steep :  and  as  I  clambered  up  it  on  my  hands 
and  knees,  for  it  was  too  soft  and  slippery  to  afford  a  firm 
footing,  I  thought  I  heard  the  hum  of  human  voices  below. 
I  stood  still  to  listen,  but  my  upright  position  was  produc- 
tive of  bad  consequence ;  the  earth  all  at  once  gave  way, 
and  I  found  myself  in  a  like  predicament  with  my  late  ene- 
my ;  for  I  fell,  and  I  knew  not  how  or  where  I  was  going  to 
stop.  Once  more  I  was  bewildered ;  but  soon  found  I  was  not 
hurt,  although  I  must  confess  I  was  a  little  frightened  to 
find  I  had  alighted  among  a  company  even  yet  more  alarmed 
than  myself.  Screams,  shouts  and  bitterest  cursings  met 
my  ears  on  all  sides. 

"A  tiger — a  tiger !"  shrieked  one  of  the  party,  as,  start- 
ing up,  he  tumbled  over  the  rest. 


ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES.     145 

"  A  goblin — a  ghost — the  devil !"  shouted  the  others,  as 
they  huddled  into  a  nook. 

By  this  time  I  had  somewhat  recovered  my  senses,  and  as 
I  gathered  up  my  unhurt  limbs,  and  my  trusty  gun,  I  found 
myself  in  a  subterranean  hut,  the  occupants  of  which  were 
an  old  man,  a  woman,  and  a  boy.  All  three  had  been  busy 
about  a  large  fire,  around  which  a  number  of  the  utensils 
used  by  the  natives  in  the  distillation  of  arrach,  lay  scat- 
tered. I  did  not  know  whether  to  congratulate  myself  or 
not,  on  the  companionship  into  which  my  sudden  fall  had 
brought  me ;  for  without  doubt  I  was  in  the  hiding-place 
of  an  illicit  distiller  of  ardent  spirits.  Determining,  how- 
ever, to  make  the  best  of  it,  I  related  my  adventure  with  the 
panther,  and  promised  a  reward  to  any  one  of  them  that 
would  guide  me  on  my  way.  They  were  an  innocent  and 
harmless  kind  of  people,  and  expressed  great  joy  on  hear- 
ing I  had  killed  the  panther  ;  he  was  particularly  ferocious 
they  said,  and  a  great  terror  to  that  part  of  the  forest ;  that 
he  had  often  been  pursued  by  the  hunters,  and  that  his 
female  had  been  killed  a  few  weeks  before.  They  begged 
me  not  to  disclose  the  secret  of  their  hiding-place,  and 
.directed  the  boy  to  place  me  on  a  path  which  led  straight 
in  the  way  to  the  tent  I  was  so  desirous  of  reaching. 

My  young  friend  was  soon  ready,  and  we  left  the  cavern  ; 
but  the  adventures  and  terrors  of  the  night  were  not  yet 
over.  It  had  now  become  perfectly  dark.  The  short  twi- 
light, peculiar  to  this  Indian  climate,  had  come  and  gone 
whilst  I  lingered  in  that  subterranean  dwelling,  which  I 
10 


146    ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES. 

found  was  situated  on  the  border  of  the  plain,  the  hillock 
that  formed  its  roof  being  hidden  by  the  last  thicket  which 
fringed  the  forest.  We  had  not  passed  over  one  of  the  six 
miles  which  the  old  man  told  me  lay  between  his  hut  and 
the  tent  I  wished  to  reach,  when  my  little  guide  stumbled 
over  something  that  lay  in  the  narrow  and  uneven  path  ;  he 
fell,  and  in  so  doing  struck  his  knee  against  a  sharp  rock 
that  rose  on  one  side.  The  wound  bled  considerably  at 
first,  but  I  had  a  supply  of  adhesive  plaster  with  me,  and  I 
succeeded  in  binding  it  up  so  that  he  could  walk ;  but  the 
poor  boy  seemed  to  suffer  so  greatly  from  weariness  and 
pain,  and  longed  so  much  to  be  at  home,  that,  having  been 
placed  in  the  right  path  myself,  and  after  giving  him  a  few 
rupees,  I  dismissed  him  and  proceeded  alone. 

He  bade  me  keep  on,  but  be  very  careful  to  observe  a 
perfectly  straight  course,  if  I  wished  to  reach  the  spot  where 
we  had  encamped  in  safety ;  but  I  deemed  such  strict  in- 
junction useless,  for  it  seemed  to  me  utterly  impossible  that 
I  could  stray  from  the  single  path,  that  was  so  plainly  dis- 
cernible from  the  rugged  and  uneven  ground  that  bordered 
it.  The  moon  was  not  yet  arisen,  but  light  enough  remained 
in  the  heavens  to  show  the  character  of  the  place  over  which 
I  travelled. 

The  open  plain  was  broken  up  by  sand  pits  or  deep  gul- 
leys,  now  dry,  but  in  the  rainy  season  served  as  beds  for  the 
mountain  streams  that,  at  the  time  of  the  monsoon,  swell 
into  torrents  and  inundate  the  lowlands,  while  here  and  there 
a  group  of  trees  or  thicket  of  shrubbery  relieved  the  monot- 


ADVENTUKE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES.     147 

ony  that  otherwise  had  been  so  painful  to  the  eye.  Behind 
me  I  could  yet  distinguish  the  dark  outline  of  hill  and  forest, 
but  before  me  was  only  the  wide  and  sterile  plain,  with 
darkness  resting  upon  it,  save  where,  in  the  far  distance, 
the  watchfire  of  some  pilgrim  served  as  a  way-mark,  or  the 
twinkling  light  of  a  taper  that,  burning  in  some  low  cot- 
tage, or  haply  showing  the  sanctuary  of  the  solitary  fakir, 
cheered  the  heart  of  the  wanderer,  and  by  its  exhibition  pro- 
claimed that  life  was  there.  These  were  the  beacons  that 
guided  me  on  my  lonely  way,  and  as  long  as  I  kept  them  in 
sight  I  did  very  well,  but  as  I  left  the  plain  behind  me  they 
vanished,  and  I  saw  them  no  more. 

I  sauntered  along  slowly,  enjoying  all  the  beauties  of  an 
Asiatic  night,  which  were  plentifully  grouped  around  me. 
The  air  was  delightfully  cool ;  myriads  of  insects,  born  only 
of  the  night,  floated  in  the  light  atmosphere  ;  but  as  the 
hours  wore  on,  the  beauty  was  lost  sight  of  in  the  annoy- 
ances that  accompanied  them.  The  offensive  green  bugs, 
peculiar  to  an  Indian  climate,  fastened  themselves  in  my 
hair  ;  hungry  musquitoes  were  humming  their  threatening 
songs  about  my  ears,  and  large  white  winged  moths  dashed 
into  my  face,  obstinately  insolent,  and  as  though  deter- 
mined to  banquet  on  my  eyes.  Crickets  and  locusts  filled  the 
air  with  their  chirpings ;  occasionally  an  owl  would  sweep 
across  the  plain,  and  as  if  offended  at  the  human  being  who 
dared  to  invade  his  solitude,  flapped  her  large  wings  in  my 
face,  in  testimony  of  her  displeasure ;  and,  as  I  crossed  a 
little  brook,  a  troop  of  white  herons,  that  generally  harbor 


148     ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES. 

in  the  damp  low  rice  fields,  rose  up  like  a  cloud  from  beside 
the  water,  and  flew  screaming  to  their  retreat. 

To  all  this  was  added  the  cry  of  the  bittern,  that  dwelt 
among  the  rushes  by  the  brook,  and  the  croaking  of  innu- 
merable frogs,  while  thousands  of  fire-flies  made  the  firma- 
ment luminous.  Those  beautiful  insects  danced  and  sparkled 
round  me  like  flying  diamonds ;  they  covered  the  trees  of 
the  forest,  that  now  lay  in  my  way,  until  every  twig  seemed 
studded  with  fairy  lamps — every  leaf  bedewed  with  brilliants 
more  dazzling  than  rubies  or  emeralds ;  and  I  stood  still  to 
survey  and  admire  the  temple  of  nature  thus  brilliantly 
illuminated,  with  which  no  enchanter's  palace  could  compare. 
It  was  wonderful — suddenly,  as  they  blazed  forth  in  glanc- 
ing brightness,  as  suddenly  were  they  extinguished, — one 
moment  the  branches,  twigs  and  leaves  were  all  visible ;  the 
next  all  was  once  more  veiled  in  deep  night. 

The  darkness  had  by  this  time  increased  so  much,  that  it 
was  with  great  difficulty  I  could  discern  the  path ;  I  knew 
that  the  moon  would  make  her  appearance  ere  long,  and  as 
I  could  not  stray  whilst  standing  still,  I  resolved  to  remain 
in  a  position  that  promised  at  least  security  until  her 
friendly  light  should  enable  me  to  proceed.  I  had  clam- 
bered up  the  side  of  a  rugged  knoll,  at  the  farthest  side 
of  which  a  small  rill,  scarce  two  steps  wide,  wound  its 
way  through  a  deep  chasm  formed  by  some  mountain  tor- 
rent, and  lay  down  on  the  bank  to  rest.  The  refreshing 
coolness  of  the  breeze,  as  it  swept  lightly  through  the  nar- 
row chasm,  the  rich  odors  it  bore  on  its  wings  from  the 


ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES.     149 

flowers  that  bloomed  in  the  neighboring  thicket,  the  absence 
of  those  tormenting  insects  which  swarmed  on  the  plain,  and 
:i  very  considerable  feeling  of  weariness,  combined  to  make 
me  drowsy.  Careless  of  danger,  I  yielded  to  the  irresisti- 
ble demand  of  the  leaden  god.  I  slept  soundly,  when  sud- 
denly my  slumber  was  broken  by  something  that  rushed 
past  me  ;  a  rattling  noise  was  heard,  and  I  felt  some  sharp 
instrument  pierce  my  leg.  Again  a  clattering  noise,  as  if 
a  bundle  of  canes  had  been  hastily  thrown  together,  was 
heard,  and  then  silence  as  deep  as  though  it  had  never  been 
interrupted,  once  more  resumed  her  reign. 

Not  a  little  alarmed,  I  felt  my  leg  with  my  hand  in  order 
to  ascertain  if  possible  what  had  wounded  me, — something 
like  a  pointed  weapon  had  penetrated  my  trowsers,  and  blood 
was  flowing  from  my  limb.  I  could  not  see  what  it  was,  so 
thick  was  the  darkness,  but  I  pulled  it  out  and  threw  it  on 
the  earth.  Had  I  a  concealed  enemy  ?  Was  it  an  arrow  ? 
No,  it  was  only  a  quill  which  an  offended  porcupine  had  shot 
at  me.  This  shy  and  retiring  animal,  so  chary  ever  of 
being  seen,  had  come  to  the  brook  to  drink,  and  alarmed 
by  the  involuntary  movement  I  made  in  sleep,  mistaking  me 
for  an  enemy,  had  been  robbed  of  one  of  his  beautiful  spot- 
ted quills,  from  which  the  natives  of  India  manufacture  so 
many  ingenious  articles  of  basket  work. 

The  moon  still  delayed  her  coming,  and  it  was  yet  dark, 
but  the  pitchy  blackness  which  a  short  time  before  had  veiled 
the  horizon  was  vanished.  I  thought  it  was  perhaps  the 
safer  plan  to  get  out  of  the  neighborhood  of  the  water.  I, 


150    ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES. 

therefore,  clambered  up  the  steep  and  rugged  side  of  the 
rivulet,  and  returned  to  the  plain,  where  I  threw  myself  on 
the  rough  prickly  grass,  determined  to  keep  watch  until  the 
moon  should  rise.  But  before  I  was  aware,  and  even  as  I 
watched  the  horizon  where  her  first  faint  beam  was  becoming 
visible,  the  god  of  sleep,  too  mighty  for  me  to  resist,  over- 
powered me,  and  I  submitted  to  him.  It  was  certainly  so ; 
I  slept  soundly  and  sweetly.  Never  had  my  slumbers  in  the 
open  air  been  so  soft  and  pleasant  as  in  that  night ;  but 
their  awaking  was  accompanied  with  unspeakable  horror. 
Before  I  was  fully  awake  I  had  a  singular  presentiment ; 
and  this  same  foreboding  fettered  me  to  the  earth,  and 
warned  me  against  making  the  slightest  movement.  I  knew 
that  some  shadow  was  passing  over  me,  and  that  it  was  most 
prudent  to  remain  perfectly  motionless,  as  though  I  were 
something  inanimate.  I  felt  that  my  feet  were  confined  by 
a  weight  like  that  of  a  living  charm;  but  the  benevolent 
drowsiness  by  which  my  senses  were  partially  benumbed 
prevented  any  desire  to  move ;  and  it  was  not  until  con- 
sciousness fully  returned  that  I  was  aware  of  the  presence 
of  a  huge  serpent  that  lay  coiled  up  on  my  legs,  reaching 
even  to  my  knees. 

"  Heavenly  Father,  I  am  lost !"  I  exclaimed  to  myself, 
whilst  every  drop  of  blood  in  my  veins  seemed  congealed  to 
ice.  I  shook  like  an  aspen  leaf,  until  the  fear  that  the 
trembling  might  awake  my  venomous  neighbor  checked  my 
agitation,  and  once  more  I  resigned  myself  to  lie  quietly. 
The  snake  appeared  to  be  asleep,  at  least  he  remained  with- 


ADVENTURE  IN  THE  EAST  INDIES.     151 

out  making  the  smallest  movement.  I  know  not  how  long 
I  remained  in  this  condition,  for  to  those  enduring  such 
anguish  as  I  did  at  that  time,  the  shortest  space  of  subdivi- 
ded time  is  an  eternity. 

All  at  once  the  moon  stepped  forth  from  behind  a  cloud, 
illumined  the  heavens,  and  flooded  the  plain  with  her  silver 
light,  so  that  I  could  see  everything  as  plainly  as  by  day. 
I  lay  still  stretched  out  on  my  side  as  I  had  done  whilst 
sleeping,  with  one  hand  under  my  head,  from  whence  I 
dared  not  remove  it:  neither  dared  I  look  towards  my 
frightful  sleeping  companion,  whom  my  evil  genius  had  cer- 
tainly sent  to  meet  me.  To  add  to  my  terror,  some  new 
danger  was  approaching,  for  I  heard  a  peculiar  humming  or 
purring  like  that  made  by  a  cat,  which  was  followed  by  a 
few  quick  and  firm  steps  close  beside  me.  The  snake  heard 
the  noise  too ;  he  roused  himself  instantly,  and  I  felt  him 
move.  He  crawled  upwards  towards  my  breast.  In  this 
same  moment,  when  I  had  almost  lost  my  senses  from  the 
overpowering  anxiety  I  suffered,  believing  that  death  in  one 
of  its  most  horrible  forms  was  ready  to  strike  me,  some 
living  thing  jumped  first  upon  my  shoulder,  and  after  rest- 
ing there  for  a  moment,  sprang  upon  the  snake.  This  new 
assailant  uttered  a  piercing  cry  as  he  commenced  his  ass-aulti 
upon  his  huge  enemy,  who  prepared  to  meet  the  onset  with 
a  loud  and  far-sounding  hiss.  For  one  moment  I  felt  them 
racing  over  my  body — in  the  next  they  were  near  me  on 
the  grass;  then  I  saw  them  a  few  paces  distant  battling 
vigorously  with  each  other — it  was  an  Ichneumon  and  a 
Cobra  di  Capella,  or  hooded  snake. 


152    ADVENTURE  ix  THE' EAST  INDIES. 

Relieved  from  my  worst  fears,  I  sprang  up  to  witness  this 
singular  battle,  for  the  moon  was  now  high  in  the  heavens, 
and  it  was  clear  as  day.  The  venomous  fascination  believed 
to  exist  in  the  glance  of  the  serpent,  proved  itself  powerless 
before  the  sharp  eye  of  its  little  antagonist.  I  saw  the 
ichneumon,  when  bitten  by  his  enemy,  dart  to  one  side  to 
seek  the  plant  whose  juice  is  the  antidote  to  the  poison 
ejected  from  the  fangs  of  this  snake;  and  I  wondered  at 
the  power  of  instinct  and  wonders  of  nature  when  I  saw 
him  return  to  renew  the  combat  with  fresh  vigour,  and  how 
the  reptile  resisted  the  attacks  of  his  little  antagonist,  until 
disabled  from  head  to  tail,  he  sunk  from  his  half  upright 
position,  and,  with  a  faint  hiss,  fell  lifeless  on  the  ground. 

Kind,  benevolent  little  animal !  Since  that  time  I  have 
always  kept  an  ichneumon,  and  have  learned  to  treasure  him 
as  I  would  a  faithful  dog,  having  found  him  not  less  attached 
and  equally  playful. 

The  adventures  of  the  night,  now  pretty  well  advanced, 
were  ended  with  the  defeat  of  the  cobra.  I  set  forward, 
guided  by  the  benevolent  light  of  the  moon,  and  had  no 
further  difficulty  in  finding  the  way  to  my  tent,  where  I 
found  my  servants  in  no  small  anxiety  concerning  my  pro- 
tracted absence.  I  had  no  need  to  admonish  them  that, 
after  the  fatigues  of  such  a  day,  a  good  supper  would  relish 
well.  They  had  a  meal  which  an  epicure  would  praise  ready, 
and  to  which  I  did  ample  justice.  After  which  I  betook 
myself  to  rest,  and  my  slumber  was  too  sound  to  be  dis- 
turbed by  any  shadow  which  the  remembrance  of  my  dan- 
gerous adventures  had  left  on  my  waking  soul. 


I  HAD  left  the  hunting  party  for  something  more  than  an 
hour,  and  was  sauntering  slowly  along  by  myself,  without 
having  found  any  game  to  enrich  my  bag  or  furnish  a  sub- 
ject to  boast  of,  when  I  came  upon  the  path  of  my  old 
friend  Konwell,  who  was  with  his  dogs  on  the  bloody  trail 
of  a  panther.  The  animal  must  have  had  one  of  his  legs 
broken ;  this  was  indicated  by  the  marks  on  the  soft  ground, 
and  it  was  plain  that  the  tracks  were  made  by  three  feet 
instead  of  four,  and  accompanied  by  blood  at  every  leap. 
I  determined  to  follow,  and  therefore  as  quickly  as  my  feet 
would  carry  me,  and  after  a  tramp  of  nearly  an  hour  I 
overtook  my  friend  at  the  entrance  of  a  cavern  where  he 
stood  waiting  for  me,  for  he  knew  that  I  must  come  upon 
the  path  taken  by  himself,  and  that  as  soon  as  I  had  seen 
the  trail  of  the  panther,  would  be  sure  to  follow  him. 

The  wounded  animal  had  taken  refuge  in  this  cave,  leav- 
ing us  to  do  whatever  we  thought  best.  He  supposed,  poor 
beast,  that  within  that  murky  recess  he  was  safe  from  pur- 
suit, but  he  was  mistaken.  Konwell  informed  me  that  he 
had  hidden  a  bundle  of  pine  splinters  in  a  gulley  about  half 
a  mile  distant,  and  that  if  I  would  keep  guard  over  the 
mouth  of  the  cave,  he  would  go  and  bring  it. 

(153) 


154  THE  PANTHER'S  DEJT. 

I  agreed  to  this  measure  at  once;  and  with  ready  gun  and 
drawn  knife,  prepared  for  any  attack  that  might  be  made,  I 
lay  down  at  the  entrance  of  the  panther's  cave.  I  found 
lying  on  the  hard  rock  anything  but  pleasant ;  and  right 
glad  was  I  when  my  friend  returned,  which  he  did  sooner 
than  I  expected,  bringing  the  pine  as  he  had  promised.4 
His  next  movement  was  to  kindle  a  large  fire  at  the  mouth 
of  the  cave  at  which  we  lighted  the  torches ;  and  having 
taken  the  flambeau  in  our  left  hand,  whilst  we  carried  our 
gun  in  the  right,  we  cautiously  entered  the  cave.  I  crept 
on  before,  but  the  space  within  soon  became  so  high  and 
roomy,  that  we  could  stand  upright,  and  keep  close  to  each 
other. 

Bending  towards  the  left,  the  cavity  extended  a  consid- 
erable distance  within  the  hill.  After  we  had  advanced 
perhaps  two  hundred  steps,  we  saw  the  glaring  eyes  of  the 
wounded  beast,  as  he  closed  them  from  time  to  time ;  and 
then  again  opening  them,  they  glared  forth  like  two  fiery 
balls,  reflecting  most  luridly  the  light  of  our  torches. 

The  old  man  now  took  my  flambeau  and  stepped  behind 
me.  I  levelled  my  gun  in  the  direction  of  those  flaming  eyes 
and  fired;  and  after  the  report  we  heard  a  bustle,  but  could 
not  exactly  make  out  what  it  meant.  I  reloaded  my  piece, . 
resumed  my  torch,  and  the  old  man  now  took  his  place  in 
front.  But  as  those  flaming  eyes  were  no  more  to  be  seen, 
we  felt  ourselves  obliged  to  go  farther.  Our  guns  ready 
loaded,  lay  on  our  left  forearm ;  so  we  believed  ourselves 
prepared  for  everything.  We  proceeded  carefully,  and  as 


THE  PANTHER'S  DEN.  155 

men  are  likely  to  do  when  suspecting  danger,  when  all  at 
once  the  panther  started  up  from  a  hollow  in  which  he  was 
lying  quite  close  to  our  feet.  It  was  a  fearfully  beautiful 
sight  to  look  upon  him  as  he  stood  with  ears  laid  back,  his 
white  teeth  set  together  as  if  in  intense  anger,  and  those 
wide  open  eyes  glowing  and  sparkling  as  they  rested  upon  ua 
his  assailants.  I  can  never  forget  his  appearance.  In  a 
moment  the  guns  were  discharged, — the  cave  returned  the 
thundering  echo.  We  had  both  fired  so  precisely  at  the  same 
moment,  that  neither  of  us  could  believe  the  other  had  shot. 
We  were  certain  that  our  enemy  had  been  struck,  but  we 
knew  not  whether  killed  or  only  disabled ;  so,  with  the  speed 
of  lightning,  we  dropped  our  guns  and  drew  our  knives  from 
the  sheath.  And  haste  was  necessary,  for  the  echo  had  not 
relapsed  into  silence  before  we  felt  the  weight  of  the  panther 
against  us ;  and  we  began  cutting  at  him  with  our  knives, 
and  at  the  same  moment,  in  consequence  of  our  hurried 
movements,  we  saw  our  torches  die  out — we  were  left  in  utter 
darkness.  Deafened  by  the  noise,  and  utterly  bewildered,  I 
turned  mechanically  to  fly  from  the  now  raging  enemy,  and 
only  became  perfectly  aware  of  what  I  was  doing  when  I 
found  myself  standing  beside  the  old  man  outside  the  cave 
in  the  open  air.  I  only  know  now,  that  enveloped  in  thick 
darkness,  and  almost  suffocated  with  the  smoke  of  gun- 
powder, I  groped  about  not  knowing  what  I  wished  or 
intended,  and  that  Konwell  at  last  drew  me  forcibly  to  the 
mouth  of  the  cave.  There  we  stood,  each  one  brandishing 
his  hunting-knife  in  his  right  hand,  and  holding  the  extin- 


156  THE  PANTHER'S  DEN. 

guished  torch  in  the  left ;  and  as  we  looked  on  each  other, 
we  scarcely  knew  whether  to  laugh  or  be  frightened  at  the 
strange  figures  we  made.  We  were  black  as  Cyclops'  with 
powder  smoke,  covered  with  sweat  and  blood,  and  our 
clothing  torn  to  rags  exposed  our  naked  limbs. 

The  old  man  complained  of  pain  in  his  breast.  I  opened 
the  bosom  of  his  shirt  and  found  two  deep  gashes  made  by 
the  panther's  claws,  extending  from  the  left  shoulder  to  the  pit 
of  the  stomach.  I  had  also  received  a  few  scratches,  but 
our  stout  hunting-shirts  were  torn  into  ribbons.  Until  this 
moment  neither  of  us  had  felt  that  we  were  wounded;  and 
even  now,  before  we  began  to  think  of  dressing  those  wounds, 
we  made  up  a  large  fire  at  the  mouth  of  the  cavern,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  panther  from  coming  forth.  This  done,  we 
sat  down  beside  the  genial  blaze  to  wash  and  bind  up  our 
scratches,  and  consult  on  what  plan  it  was  now  best  to  pro- 
ceed. 

That  the  panther  was  still  in  the  cave  we  were  certain, 
but  whether  living  or  dead  we  did  not  know ;  at  all  events 
he  was  wounded,  for  our  hunting  knives  were  covered  with 
blood  quite  up  to  the  hilt.  But  we  had  no  choice  left — we 
must  return,  for  our  guns  and  Konwell's  powder  flask,  which 
the  animal  had  dragged  off  with  him,  still  lay  within  the  hollow. 
To  kill  him  by  making  a  fire  within,  so  as  to  suffocate  him 
with  smoke,  was  possible ;  but  it  was  not  improbable  but 
that  there  was  some  vent  by  which  it  might  escape,  and  in 
that  case  our  labour  would  be  lost  and  our  time  wasted. 
We,  therefore,  plucked  up  new  courage;  and  having  re- 


THE  PANTHER'S   DEN.  157 

lighted  our  torches,  we  brandished  our  knives,  and  prepared, 
though  not  without  some  heart  throbbings,  once  more  to 
enter  the  panther's  den. 

With  light  and  cautious  steps,  lest  we  might  be  as  un- 
pleasantly surprised  as  we  had  been  when  we  made  our 
hasty  retreat,  we  advanced,  holding  our  torches  before  us, 
to  the  spot  where  we  had  dropped  our  guns,  and  without 
meeting  with  any  hindrance  from  our  enemy.  I  now  became 
sole  torch-bearer,  holding  the  old  man's  flambeau  whilst  he 
loaded  his  gun;  then  giving  him  mine,  I  did  the  same. 
Once  more  in  possession  of  our  trusty  weapons,  we  stepped 
fonvard  with  lighter  hearts,  yet  still  with  great  caution, 
when  all  at  once  the  old  man  exclaimed,  as  he  raised  the 
flaming  pine  high  above  his  head,  and  pointed  with  it  in  a 
certain  direction — 

"  See— there  he  is  !" 

This  was  the  first  word  that  had  been  spoken  since  we 
re-entered  the  cavern.  I  looked  in  the  indicated  direction, 
and  there  indeed  lay  the  panther,  stretched  out  at  full  length, 
but  no  longer  dangerous.  His  eyes  were  set,  his  limbs  were 
rigid — the  last  agony  was  over.  We  skinned  and  cut  him 
up,  even  as  he  lay.  All  three  bullets  had  struck  him,  and 
both  knives  penetrated  his  body ;  and  it  must  have  been  in 
the  death  struggle  that  he  leaped  upon  us. 

When  our  work  was  ended,  and  we  again  came  to  the  open 
air,  the  sun  was  low  in  the  horizon,  and  all  haste  was  neces- 
sary that  we  should  set  out  on  our  forest  path  without  fur- 
ther delay.  Our  wounds  smarted  not  a  little ;  and  although 


158  THE  PANTHER'S  DEN. 

•we  took  time  once  more  to  wash  them,  became  so  stiff  that 
our  progress  was  both  toilsome  and  tedious.  We  soon  be- 
came convinced  that  we  should  not  succeed  in  reaching  our 
companions  whilst  the  daylight  remained,  and  we  determined 
to  bivouac  for  the  night  at  the  foot  of  a  rocky  declivity, 
which  promised  a  good  shelter  from  the  cutting  wind.  To 
add  to  our  discomfort,  hunger  began  to  make  itself  painfully 
felt;  but  this  was  soon  overpowered  by  weariness,  and  hav 
ing  gathered  up  the  dry  pine  branches  that  lay  scattered 
plentifully  around,  we  kindled  up  a  good  fire  and  without 
troubling  ourselves  to  prepare  anything  for  supper,  we 
stretched  ourselves  on  the  grass  before  it,  and  found  the 
warmth  most  grateful. 

Worn  out  by  the  toils  of  the  day,  in  a  few  minutes  my 
old  comrade  was  fast  asleep ;  but  although  much  inclined  to 
follow  his  example,  I  was  prevented  by  the  restlessness  of 
my  dog,  who  seemed  to  wish  to  warn  me  of  the  presence  of 
danger.  The  faithful  animal,  cringing  closely  to  me,  laid 
his  nose  on  my  shoulder,  raising  his  head  from  time  to  time, 
and  whined  as  though  he  wished  to  communicate  something, 
and  then  for  a  few  moments  would  remain  quiet.  Then  all 
at  once  he  would  rise  up  as  in  the  attitude  of  listening, 
occasionally  uttering  a  low  growl. 

Completely  awakened  by  this  strange  behaviour  on  the 
part  of  the  well-trained  animal,  it  seemed  to  me  as  if  I 
heard  a  slight  rustling  among  the  dry  undergrowth,  and 
rising  up  to  a  half  sitting  posture,  I  looked  towards  the  rock 
behind  me,  and,  to  my  great  astonishment,  became  aware  of 


THE  PANTHER'S  DEN.  159 

a  pair  of  glaring  eyes  fastened  upon  me.  As  my  head  was 
between  the  fire  and  those  fearful  eyes,  I  could  plainly  dis- 
tinguish the  fiery  balls  as,  reflected  on  by  the  red  light,  they 
peered  above  the  naked  rock  at  whose  foot  I  lay.  It  was  a 
panther,  and  evidently,  from  the  position  in  which  I  saw  it, 
was  ready  for  a  spring.  Happily  on  this,  as  on  every  other 
night,  my  trusty  gun  lay  close  beside  me.  I  seized  it,  and 
half  rising,  so  that  the  fire  behind  me  afforded  light  for 
steady  aim,  I  levelled  it  exactly  between  the  two  eyes.  I 
drew  the  trigger — the  bullet  sped  on  its  deadly  errand,  and 
the  crack  of  the  noble  rifle,  thundering  against  the  steep 
rocks,  returned  with  loud  and  prolonged  echo. 

Old  Konwell,  to  whom  the  report  of  a  gun  was  ever  the 
sweetest  music,  now  started  up  as  if  roused  by  an  electric 
shock,  and  grasped  his  gun  as  a  matter  of  course ;  the  dog 
continued  his  barking,  smelling  all  around,  and  looking  in 
my  face  as  if  to  inquire  in  what  direction  he  should  go. 
There  was  no  rustling  movement  on  the  rock — the  bullet 
must  have  told ;  and  pleased  with  the  thought,  I  smiled  as  I 
rammed  down  another  charge  into  my  gun. 

My  old  friend  shook  his  head  as  he  inquired,  "  Why  in 
the  name  of  Heaven  I  had  shot  ?"  Without  answering,  I 
went  on  with  my  task  of  loading ;  this  finished,  I  took  up  a 
blazing  pine  brand  from  the  fire,  and  proceeded  to  climb  the 
steep  wall  of  rock  that  raised  itself  like  a  barrier,  about 
twenty  steps  distant  from  the  spot  upon  which  we  rested. 
Here  I  found  an  old  panther,  the  largest  I  had  ever  seen, 
lying  dead — my  well-directed  bullet  had  finished  him.  I 


160  THE  PANTHER'S  DEN. 

flung  the  body  over  the  rock,  and  my  old  comrade  dragged 
him  to  the  fire.  The  ball  had  struck  him  directly  in  the 
right  eye,  passing  through  to  the  brain.  He  was  a  fearful 
looking  animal,  with  terrible  teeth  and  claws,  and  the  more 
to  be  dreaded  as,  when  we  cut  him  up,  his  stomach  was 
found  entirely  empty.  I  believed  that  hunger  had  driven 
him  so  close  to  the  fire,  but  Konwell  thought  he  had  scented 
the  fresh  venison  we  had  with  us.  Be  that  as  it  may,  there 
was  little  doubt  but  that  he  would  have  made  a  leap  as  soon 
as  the  intervening  fire  had  burnt  down ;  to  its  friendly  pres- 
ence, therefore,  on  this  occasion,  as  a  means  of  Providence, 
we  owed  our  lives. 


THE 


HUNTERS  OF  THE    WORLD; 


WILD    SPORTS 


ADVENTURES  IN  ENCOUNTERS  WITH  WILD  ANIMALS 
IN  EVERY  PART  OF  THE  WORLD. 


BY    THEO.    OIELITZ, 

RINTHEBOYALINSTITUTE.BEBLIN. 


TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  GERMAN,  BT  A  LADY, 


Illustrations  on  %tt>nt. 


WILLIS  P.  HAZARD,  178  CHESTNUT  STREET, 

PHILADELPHIA. 

1854. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1853,  by 
WILLIS  P.  HAZARD, 

in  the  Office  of  the  Clerk  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Eastern  District 
of  Pennsylvania. 


PRINTED  BY  SMITH  &  PETERS, 
Franklin  Buildings,  Sixth  Street  telow  Arch,  Philadelphia. 


P40E 

A  PANTHER  HUNT,        ....  5 

BEAR  HUNTING,       -                        ...  15 

THE  BEAR'S  DEN,         -            ....  42 

BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD,                      ...  59 

THE  BUFFALO,               .....  73 

HUNTING  THE  RHINOCEROS,           -           -           -  82 

THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS,     -           -           -           -  89 

THE  CROCODILE,                             -  93 

SERPENTS,                                  ....  108 

VALPARAISO,                       ...  115 

SANJAGO,                                                        -           -  122 

THE  OSTRICH  HUNT,                      ...  126 

ASCENDING  THE  ANDES,            ....  131 

THE  SNOW  REGION,                         ...  136 

THE  DESCENT,                -           -           -           -           -  141 

THE  PAMPAS,                                  -  148 

SCENES  IN  RUSSIA,                              -                       -  154 

(Hi) 


TRAVELLERS'  ADVENTURES. 


lutit. 


YELLING  and  barking,  three  slender  nimble-footed  hounds 
were  scouring  through  the  forest,  their  noses  almost  touching 
the  earth  ;  now  peering  through  the  undergrowth,  now  snuf- 
fing the  air  or  smelling  the  dry  leaves,  sometimes  leaving 
the  track,  sometimes  losing  the  scent  altogether,  and  then 
starting  off  to  renew  it  again.  A  lusty  bark  showed  when 
they  were  on  the  trail  of  some  wild  beast  ;  for,  although 
occasionally  attracted  by  the  swift-footed  hare  or  timid  rab- 
bit that  would  cross  their  path,  or  snuffing  round  some  fallen 
tree  or  half  decayed  log,  they  never  gave  up  the  chase  alto- 
gether. Thus  coursing,  they  at  length  reached  a  spot  where 
their  prey  must  either  have  tarried  for  a  time,  or  the  trail 
had  been  crossed,  for  yelping,  they  again  stood  still  as  if  at 
fault  ;  then  once  more  they  dashed  forward,  and  with  wild 
and  whining  tones  they  sought  through  the  undergrowth, 
and  sprung  into  the  midst  of  thickets  of  climbing  plants 
with  which  the  spot  was  enclosed. 

All  at  once  a  rustling  was  heard  in  the  bushes,  then  they 
parted,  and  in  the  opening  appeared  a  young  man  seated  on 
a  small  black  horse,  brandishing  a  large  hunting-knife,  with 
which  he  hewed  down  the  creeping  vines  and  whatever  else 
opposed  his  progress,  to  the  manifest  danger  of  the  dogs, 

(5) 


6  A  PANTHER  HUNT. 

who,  apparently  delighted  with  Jlis  presence,  made  up  to 
him,  and  encircled  him  with  toeir  clumsy  gambols,  but  only 
for  a  moment  or  two,  for  that  b^ing  over,  they  renewed  the 
chase  with  greater  zeal  than  ever. 

"  That's  right,  my  brave  dogs  !"  cried  the  young  hunts- 
man, while  he  reined  in  his  horse,  stuck  his  knife  in  its 
sheath,  and  laid  his  long  rifle,  which  he  carried  over  his  left 
shoulder,  on  the  saddle-bow  before  him  ;  "  that  is  right — 
search,  search !  You  are  on  the  track  this  time,  and  I 
think  we  will  not  let  the  thief,  who  has  carried  off  my  pigs 
so  often,  escape  this  time!" 

"  Hallo  !"  he  cried,  raising  himself  up  high  in  his  stirrups, 
as  he  saw  that  the  oldest  dog  had  all  at  once  found  the 
scent,  and  starting  off  in  full  cry  before  the  rest,  vanish  in 
the  thicket.  The  young  huntsman  threw  back  his  gun  to 
its  first  position  on  his  shoulder,  grasped  his  bridle  rein  in 
his  right  hand,  struck  his  spur  into  the  side  of  his  steed, 
causing  him  to  fly  in  bounding  leaps  over  the  path  by  which 
the  dogs  had  disappeared.  Fallen  trunks,  spots  thickly 
covered  with  brambles,  marshy  pits  and  bog-holes  lay  in  the 
way,  but  they  afforded  no  obstacle  to  the  zeal  which  ani- 
mated his  cause.  Forward  he  dashed,  that  foaming  steed, 
snorting  and  neighing  as  though  he  tried  to  echo  the  hunting- 
cry,  and  shared  in  the  joy  of  his  exulting  master.  Once 
more  the  dogs  held  up ;  but  this  time  their  course  was  not 
checked  by  the  uncertainty  of  the  way  their  enemy  had 
taken,  for,  barking  and  yelping,  setting  up  a  terrible  outcry, 
they  made  as  if  ready  to  climb  up  a  tall  oak  that  stood  near, 


A  PANTHER  HUNT.  7 

and  failing  of  this,  in  their  rage  began  to  gnaw  the  roots 
and  rough  bark  of  the  mighty  tree. 

The  young  huntsman  now  appeared  on  the  field  of  strife, 
and  without  waiting  for  any  solicitation  from  his  dogs,  sprung 
from  his  saddle  with  all  the  agility  of  one  well  acquainted 
^  with  forest  life.  With  searching  glance  he  peered  up  into 
the  thick  leaved  tree,  up  which  the  dogs  seemed  once  more 
determined  to  climb,  and  his  practised  eye  soon  discerned, 
ensconced  amidst  the  thickly  interwoven  branches,  a  living 
creature  that,  as  it  crouched  closely  into  its  hiding-place, 
rolled  up  like  a  ball,  and  evidently  deemed  itself  hidden  and 
unseen. 

The  thick  leaves  that  clustered  there  made  the  spot  where 
the  animal  harbored  so  dark,  that  it  would  have  puzzled  any 
one  less  versed  in  woodcraft  than  our  young  acquaintance 
to  have  named  the  creature  that  nestled  in  their  deep 
shadow.  But  to  him  such  knowledge  was  easy.  His  sharp 
eye  at  once  discerned,  in  the  rolled  up  figure,  a  young 
panther,  betrayed  by  the  long  tail  it  could  not  entirely  con- 
ceal. He  had  levelled  his  gun  in  the  direction  of  the  ani- 
mal— the  dogs  stood  silent  and  immovable,  looking  anxious 
and  expectant,  alternately  towards  the  gun,  waiting  to  hear 
the  report,  and  see  the  flash  blaze  forth,  or  gazing  up  into 
the  tree  where  they  knew  their  enemy  was  seated. 

At  length  they  grew  tired  of  his  delay,  and  with  low 
whinings,  that  seemed  like  the  language  of  entreaty,  they 
sought  to  urge  him  to  fire  upon  the  creature.  But  their 
master  seemed  to  have  altered  his  intention — he  lowered  his 


8  A  PANTHER  HUNT. 

gun,  and  began  anew  to  scrutinize  the  tree  with  even  more 
searching  glance  than  before.  After  gazing  up  into  it  for 
some  time,  as  though  he  was  considering  some  matter  of  im- 
portance, he  seemed  at  length  to  have  found  out  what  he 
wanted,  and  placing  his  gun  against  the  trunk  of  an  over- 
thrown tree  that  was  not  far  distant  from  him,  unloosed  his 
belt,  in  which  was  stuck  both  knife  and  tomahawk,  threw 
off  his  hunting-shirt,  and  then,  with  his  girdle  in  his  hand, 
went  back  to  the  oak  which  the  dogs  were  still  watching,  at 
the  same  time  that  not  the  slightest  of  his  movements  was 
lost  upon  them. 

"  I'll  try  it,"  he  murmured  at  last  to  himself;  "  I'll  try  it, 
and  take  him  alive.  I  have  only  to  carry  him  to  the  next 
town,  and  I  shall  get  ten  or  fifteen  dollars  for  him  as  soon 
as  I  ask  it ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  if  I  shoot  him,  his  skin 
will  not  bring  me  more  than  a  shilling  or  so.  The  old  one 
must  have  gone  clear  off,  for  I  do  not  see  her  any  where  up 
in  the  tree,  and  any  man  would  be  willing  to  bear  a  few 
scratches  from  the  young  devil  for  the  sake  of  ten  dollars ; 
so  young  Mr.  Panther,  look  out — I  am  coming  !" 

As  he  concluded  his  speech,  he  went  up  to  his  horse,  who 
was  quietly  grazing  on  the  soft  herbage,  and  taking  a  rope 
that  served  as  a  halter  from  around  the  animal's  neck, 
buckled  his  girdle  tightly,  and  with  his  knife  stuck  into  it  in 
backwood's  fashion,  he  began  to  climb  the  tree.  He  was 
unable  to  encircle  its  huge  trunk  with  his  arms,  he  therefore 
threw  the  rope  around  it,  took  hold  of  both  ends  in  such  a 
manner  that  it  served  as  a  support,  and  then  with  its  help, 


A  PANTHER  HUNT.  9 

and  using  his  arms  alternately,  the  one  above  the  other,  he 
began  cautiously  to  ascend  the  tree.  The  dogs  seemed  in- 
stinctively to  comprehend  his  movement,  and  whining  and 
barking,  they  gamboled  gaily  round  the  roots  of  the  sturdy 
oak,  looking  up  from  time  to  time,  at  the  little  enemy  that 
sat  still  hidden  in  the  branches.  It  was  slow  work,  but 
sure.  Using  great  caution,  he  climbed  up  the  tall,  rough 
trunk,  perhaps  thirty  feet,  until  he  reached  the  first  branch. 
Here  he  stopped  for  a  moment  to  rest  and  take  breath ;  at 
the  same  time  he  tested  the  strength  of  his  girdle,  and  felt  if 
his  knife  was  secure,  looked  at  the  young  wild  cat  that  lay 
still  rolled  up  in  a  ball-like  form  among  the  embowering 
leaves  that  belonged  to  this  same  branch,  slung  his  rope, 
the  service  of  which  he  no  longer  needed,  over  his  shoulder, 
and  continued  to  ascend.  The  slenderer  branches  crossing 
each  other,  forming  a  natural  ladder,  greatly  assisted  his 
progress,  and  brought  him  in  close  neighborhood  with  the 
panther  cub,  that  still  remained  lying  in  its  first  position, 
and  now,  without  moving,  looked  straight  into  the  face  of 
the  approaching  enemy  with  eyes  plainly  indicative  of  its 
ferocious  nature. 

But  another  glance,  wilder  and  even  more  ferocious,  was 
resting  on  the  young  hunter,  sent  forth  by  a  more  danger- 
ous neighbor,  and  one  of  whose  proximity  he  had  not  the 
slightest  suspicion.  This  was  none  other  than  the  mother 
panther,  who  had  made  her  lair  in  a  neighboring  tree,  the 
branches  of  which  interlacing  with  those  amidst  which  the 
young  one  was  sitting,  made  it  an  easy  matter  to  pass  from 


10  A  PANTHER  HUNT. 

one  to  the  other.  There  she  was,  stooping  and  crouching, 
ready  for  a  spring,  waving  her  long  tail,  and  apparently 
waiting  only  until  the  enemy  should  come  fairly  within  her 
range ;  and  then,  with  one  powerful  leap  she  would  throw 
herself  upon  the  bold  invader  who  had  the  hardihood  to  ap- 
proach her  young,  and  fastening  upon  him  with  teeth  and 
claws,  tear  him  to  pieces. 

Ignorant  of  this  threatening  danger,  and  careless  of  every- 
thing hut  how  best  to  secure  his  prey,  the  youth  swung  from 
limb  to  limb,  until  he  came  almost  within  touching  distance 
of  the  young  panther,  that  now  rose  slowly  from  its  crouch- 
ing posture,  and  standing  upon  the  limb  with  arching  back, 
in  the  manner  usual  with  cats  when  rising  from  a  recumbent 
posture,  looked  down  quietly  upon  the  daring  hunter  on  the 
branch  directly  below.  The  latter  once  more  stopped  to 
rest  and  consider,  but  one  moment  was  sufficient  for  both 
purposes ;  taking  the  rope  he  had  wound  round  his  shoulders, 
he  made  a  running  noose  of  it,  with  the  intention  of  throw- 
ing it  over  the  young  panther's  head,  then  steadying  him- 
self by  means  of  two  other  branches,  he  waited  for  the 
proper  moment  to  seize  his  prey.  Whilst  he  was  thus  en- 
gaged, the  old  one  was  also  making  her  preparations ;  and 
as  he  was  about  to  raise  his  hand  to  fling  his  noose,  he 
caught  the  glaring  eye  of  his  deadly  enemy,  just  as  she 
stooped  in  readiness  to  make  the  decisive  leap. 

Inured,  from  earliest  childhood,  to  the  hardships  of  forest 
life,  and  familiar  with  all  the  dangers  that  threaten  the 
hunter  in  the  pursuit  of  his  perilous  calling,  our  young 


A  PANTHER  HUNT.  11 

woodsman  still  retained  his  presence  of  mind,  and  in  that 
fearful  moment  was  yet  collected  enough  to  step  on  the 
limb  below,  and  draw  the  branch,  on  the  lower  part  of  which 
he  stood,  to  serve  as  a  screen  between  him  and  his  enemy. 
This  was  done  swift  as  thought,  and  before  the  animaj  could 
conclude  her  spring ; — the  quick  movement  was  successful. 
At  the  very  moment  it  was  accomplished,  the  panther  had 
alighted  on  the  spot  he  had  so  suddenly  vacated,  her  gleam- 
ing eyes  gazing  ferociously  into  those  of  the  undaunted  hunts- 
man, who  with  his  left  arm  twisted  in  the  interposing  branch, 
and  brandishing  his  naked  knife  in  his  right  hand,  still  kept 
his  footing  and  his  presence  of  mind,  whilst  with  every 
breath  he  drew,  he  expected  his  enemy  to  spring  upon  him. 
It  has  been  said  the  fiercest  animals  can  be  intimidated  by 
the  glance  of  the  human  eye ;  and  the  panther,  at  least,  held 
in  check  by  that  which  now  rested  on  her,  began  to  busy 
herself  about  the  safety  of  her  young ;  yet  still  keeping 
watch  on  every  movement  made  by  her  enemy,  lay  not  six 
feet  distant  from  him,  and  waving  her  long  tail,  which  with 
these  animals  as  with  all  of  the  cat  kind,  is  a  symptom  of 
determined  hostility.  For  a  long  time  our  youth  deemed 
himself  lost;  for  although  his  knife  was  sharp,  and  had 
often  done  him  good  service  in  his  forest  craft  against  a  grisly 
bear  or  dangerous  wolf,  the  posture  in  which  he  stood  made 
any  movement  whatever  highly  perilous.  The  slightest  swerv- 
ing from  his  precarious  foothold  would  have  sent  him  to  be 
dashed  to  pieces  on  the  earth  below ;  and  such  was  certain 
to  be  the  consequence  of  a  battle  with  his  enemy.  Finding, 


12  A  PANTHEK  HUNT. 

however,  the  spring  delayed,  and  that  the  panther  contented 
herself,  for  the  present,  with  watching  him,  he  quickly  but 
cautiously,  dreading  to  provoke  the  animal,  restored  his 
knife  to  its  sheath,  and  began  slowly  to  retreat. 

The* panther,  as  she  saw  the  distance  gradually  increase 
between  herself  and  the  young  hunter,  began  to  follow  on 
in  the  same  measure.  The  latter  often  laid  his  hand  on  the 
haft  of  his  knife  when  he  saw  the  slender  form  crouch  in 
readiness  for  a  spring ;  but  as  he  never  for  a  moment  with- 
drew his  steady  eye  from  gazing  into  that  of  the  animal,  its 
intimidating  influence  checked  the  deadly  purpose.  Proceed- 
ing thus,  he  reached  the  lowest  branch,  and  once  more  fling- 
ing the  rope  around  the  trunk,  he  grasped  the  two  ends  as 
he  had  done  when  ascending,  and  slid  down  as  quietly  and 
swiftly  as  he  could.  By  this  time  the  dogs  had  discovered 
the  enemy  in  the  branches,  as  she  followed  close  on  the 
track  of  their  master,  and  were  now  springing  upon  the 
trunk  as  if  resolved  to  climb  the  tree  to  his  rescue,  howling 
and  barking  in  wild  rage  as  they  found  their  efforts  unavail- 
ing. The  din  was  terrific,  but  the  bold  youth  still  unmoved, 
continued  his  course  downward,  and  at  length  reached  the 
ground.  His  clothes  were  torn,  the  blood  dropped  from  his 
arms,  for  the  rough  bark  had  torn  them,  his  strength  was 
exhausted,  and  his  knees  trembled.  But  he  did  not  allow 
himself  one  moment  to  rest,  for  at  the  same  instant  that  his 
foot  touched  the  firm  earth,  he  sprang  to  the  place  where 
he  had  left  his  gun,  and  seizing  it  hastily,  leveled  it  at  the 
panther,  hoping,  by  one  shot,  to  bring  her  down  from  her 


A  PANTHER  HUNT.  13 

lofty  lair.  But  in  vain  he  tried  to  bring  it  to  the  proper 
level ;  his  practised  hand,  unnerved  by  such  severe  exer- 
tion, failed  of  its  usual  steadiness ;  he  could  not  call  up 
the  necessary  strength,  not  even  for  one  second.  His  limbs 
shook  as  in  a  fit  of  ague,  and  he  found  himself  obliged  to 
throw  his  trusty  weapon  from  him  and  sit  down  to  rest. 
But  he  turned  not  his  eye  from  the  panther,  that  still  was 
crouching  as  if  meditating  a  leap,  near  her  young  one,  while 
the  latter,  no  longer  in  fear  of  danger,  stood  up  on  the  same 
branch  where  he  had  first  seen  it,  and  with  elevated  back 
and  tail,  and  glossy  skin,  was  a  beautiful  specimen  of  its 
kind. 

Our  bold  youth  soon  recovered ;  once  more  he  grasped 
his  gun,  and  this  time  his  hand  was  steady,  and  his  aim  true ; 
the  bullet  sped,  and  the  report  thundered  through  the  forest, 
calling  up  the  echoes  from  the  distant  hills. 

The  panther  pierced  by  the  deadly  shot,  drew  herself  to- 
gether, then  springing  up,  clambered  in  wild  haste  from 
branch  to  branch  until  she  reached  the  very  top  of  the 
tree.  The  slender  boughs  bent  beneath  her  weight,  and  the 
frail  twigs  swayed  as  her  feet  rested  upon  them ;  she  gained 
nearly  to  the  topmost  one,  but  as  she  prepared  to  leap  upon 
a  higher,  the  faithless  support  gave  way,  and  she  fell  dead 
at  the  feet  of  the  young  woodsman,  and  in  the  midst  of  the 
howling  and  expectant  dogs. 

There  was  now  nothing  to  hinder  his  taking  the  young 
one  alive,  and  the  task  would  have  been  comparatively 
easy,  for  it  had  anxiously  followed  its  dam  to  the  lowest 


1-1  A  PANTHER  HUNT. 

branch  of  the  tree,  but  exhausted  as  he  was,  he  dared  not 
trust  his  strength  to  make  an  effort  to  retrace  the  danger- 
ous way.  He  once  more  loaded  his  gun,  and  the  unerring 
shot  brought  the  creature  within  the  circle  of  the  hounds, 
who  filled  the  forest  with  their  savage  barkings  as  testimony 
of  the  victory  they  had  gained. 

It  was  but  a  few  minutes  work  to  strip  the  skins  from 
both,  and  having  thrown  them  over  his  saddle,  the  young 
hunter  mounted  his  horse  and  hastened  away  to  seek  new 
dangers  and  secure  other  prey. 


Bear  Hunting 


$  j  n  t    I  tinting. 

OLD  Rawlina,  one  of  the  most  vigorous  hunters  in  all  Ar- 
kansas, had  gone  out  with  many  of  his  friends  to  hunt 
deer.  When  the  party  reached  the  forest,  and  had  divided 
their  force,  they  marched  on  with  great  circumspection, 
every  now  and  then  stopping  to  listen  if  any  sound  indica- 
tive of  the  animals  they  came  to  seek  was  to  be  heard.  All 
at  once  one  of  the  hunters,  a  young  man  named  Frederick, 
stood  still,  and  raising  his  gun,  motioned  to  old  Rawlins  to 
look  to  one  side.  Five  noble  stags,  with  branching  antlers, 
were  quietly  grazing  scarce  eighty  steps  distant,  without  any 
dread  that  such  enemies  were  near.  Frederick  levelled  his 
rifle,  and  was  about  to  take  aim  at  the  finest  one  of  the 
herd,  when  Rawlins  gave  him  a  signal  to  desist. 

"  What  do  you  mean,  young  man  ?"  said  he,  when  he 
came  within  such  distance  as  that  a  whisper  could  be  heard. 
"  Down  with  your  gun !  Would  you  ruin  the  whole  hunt 
for  the  sake  of  shooting  a  poor  miserable  stag  ?  Do  you 
not  hear  that  noise  and  crackling  there  in  the  cane  brake? 
If  there  is  not  a  bear  hidden  in  there,  why,  it  is  because 
there  are  no  bears  in  Arkansas.  Look  out  now.  I  tell  you 
let  these  trifling  deer  alone,"  cried  he,  in  a  tone  of  vexa- 
tion, as  he  saw  the  youth  cast  a  longing  glance  toward  the 

(15) 


16  BEAR  HUNTING. 

herd.  "  I  say  keep  your  eyes  on  the  ground,  and  do  not 
be  crushing  those  crackling  branches  under  your  feet !  Take 
care  of  the  dogs  that  none  of  them  break  loose  before  the 
time,  for  if  they  do  it  will  make  hot  work  for  us,  I  promise 
you." 

Whilst  the  two  hunters  were  proceeding  as  cautiously  as 
possible,  scarce  daring  to  tread  on  the  dry  leaves  and  twigs 
with  which  the  spot  was  strewed,  the  rustling  among  the 
canes  which  Eawlins'  quick  ear  had  discovered,  grew  ef  ery 
moment  more  distinct;  Frederick  at  length  distinguished  it 
too.  They  now  ascended  a  little  acclivity  covered  with  oak 
trees,  and  forming  the  bank  of  a  river  on  one  side ;  at  an 
earlier  period  it  might  have  separated  the  bed  of  the  same 
from  the  marshy  ground  that  lay  beyond  it,  but  now  the 
growth  of  the  hillock  and  swamp  were  strangely  mingled. 
Dark  firs  sprung  up  beside  the  cypress,  and  the  oak  united 
his  branches  with  the  swamp  pine,  incongruously  at  variance 
with  the  forest  laws  of  nature  ;  just  beyond  it  was  a  dense 
thicket  of  young  canes,  in  the  midst  of  which  sassafras 
shrubs  and  thorny  creepers  raised  their  fragrant  heads  and 
varnished  leaves.  It  was  from  this  point  the  rustling  heard 
by  Rawlins  proceeded,  and  now  as  the  two  men  approached 
it  with  stealthy  step,  several  dark  forms  were  seen  moving 
to  and  fro  amidst  the  thick  shrubbery  and  tall  canes. 

"What  is  all  this — are  there  wild  hogs  here?"  whispered 
Frederick  to  his  companion,  as  he  surveyed  the  agitated 
reeds  attentively. 

"Be  quiet — for  Heaven's  sake,  be  quiet!"  answered 


BEAR   HUNTING.  17 

Rawlins  in  a  tone  so  low  as  to  be  scarcely  audible ;  "  three 
bears— by  all  that's  pretty !  My  stars ! — if  we  were  only  all 
together !" 

"  Look  at  Dehart, — where  he  comes  crawling  like  a 
snake,"  returned  Frederick,  laughing,  as  he  saw  the  young 
man  dragging  his  "  slow  length"  along  in  the  manner  pecu- 
liar to  the  reptile  he  had  named. 

"  That  is  well — they  must  all  three  belong  to  us,"  asserted 
the  old  hunter  with  as  much  positiveness  as  if  he  already 
had  the  bears  in  his  possession ;  "  here,  Fred — you  stay  at 
this  spot,  and  aim  direct  at  the  largest  of  the  cubs ;  Dehart, 
since  he  is  so  fond  of  crawling,  may  slip  up  to  that  point 
and  take  the  other,  and  I  will  steal  down  into  the  hollow 
and  manage  the  old  one.  But  do  not  fire  until  you  hear 
me  shoot,  or  else  we  may  only  get  the  young  devils,  and  miss 
the  old  dam." 

By  signs  to  Dehart,  which  he  well  understood,  the  expe- 
rienced old  backwoodsman  made  him  acquainted  with  the 
presence  and  number  of  the  bears,  and  bade  him  creep  up 
to  them  by  the  right  side  of  the  hollow. 

"  Had  not  I  better  creep  up  to  him  and  whisper  our  plan  ?" 
'inquired  Frederick. 

"It  is  not  necessary,"  answered  Rawlins;  "he  knows 
now  that  there  are  more  bears  than  one  here,  so  he  must 
understand  also  what  we  mean  to  do.  Dehart  has  shot  many 
a  one  before  to-day." 

As  he  spoke,  he  beckoned  to  his  dogs,  and  with  them  fol- 
lowing, crept  through  the  thick  undergrowth  towards  the 
2 


18  BEAR    HUNTING. 

left.  Dehart  kept  on  to  the  right,  as  he  had  been  directed, 
and  was  soon  lost  to  sight  among  the  bushes,  while  Fred- 
erick remained  alone  on  the  hillock,  from  whence  he  could 
see  all  that  was  going  forward.  He  could  now  plainly  dis- 
cern an  old  bear  with  two  cubs  of  about  six  months  old  ;  all 
three  appeared  busy  in  trying  to  overturn  a  half  decayed 
log,  in  order  to  feast  upon  the  worms  and  beetles  that  lay  in 
the  mellow  earth  beneath,  and  singular  indeed  was  the 
manner  in  which  they  went  to  work.  The  old  one  raised 
herself  upright,  and  taking  hold  of  it  with  her  fore  paws, 
tried  in  this  manner  to  roll  it  over,  but  not  succeeding,  sho 
next  placed  her  back  against  it,  and  the  young  ones  were 
forced  to  assist  her — and  Frederick,  who,  scarce  three  hun- 
dred steps  distant,  and  from  his  elevated  position,  could  see 
all  that  was  going  on,  was  amused  at  the  old  bear's  forcing 
her  cubs  to  work,  which  she  did  by  pulling  them  up  with 
her  fore  paws,  when  they  sat  down  beside  the  old  log,  in- 
stead of  helping  to  turn  it  over.  At  length  it  gave  way 
before  their  united  strength,  and  the  mother  bear  at  once 
became  busy  in  scratching  up  the  worms  and  other  insects 
for  a  feast  she  deemed  worthy  of  all  this  trouble ;  the  cubs, 
however,  were  soon  satisfied,  and  played  and  gamboled 
round  like  two  puppies,  still  approaching  nearer  to  the  spot 
where  Dehart  had  crawled,  and  was  concealed. 

Frederick  now  began  to  think  it  high  time  to  come  some- 
what nearer  to  the  battle-ground,  and  was  endeavoring  to 
keep  a  stout  oak  between  himself  and  the  old  one,  so  that 
behind  this  leafy  barrier  he  could  come  within  an  hundred 


BEAR    HUNTING.  19 

paces  unobserved.  He  had  but  half  accomplished  his  pur- 
pose, when  one  of  the  cubs  raised  himself  on  his  hind  feet, 
looked  sharply  around  into  the  thicket,  and  having  lingered 
for  one  moment  in  this  position,  began  to  climb  a  cypress 
that  stood  close  beside  him.  He  had  ascended  six  or  eight 
feet,  and  perhaps  deeming  that  a  sufficient  height,  from 
which  the  thicket  that  lay  below  could  be  overlooked,  he 
turned  his  head  with  a  most  knowing  look  towards  the  spot 
where  Dehart  lay  concealed,  and  exactly  within  the  range 
of  his  fire.  In  a  moment  the  crack  of  his  rifle  was  heard, 
the  sound  echoed  far  and  wide,  and  with  a  loud  outcry  the 
young  bear  fell  back  from  the  cypress  trunk  into  the  prickly 
bushes  below.  Quick  as  lightning  the  other  cub  climbed  up 
to  the  top  of  a  scrubby  tree — enraged  and  snorting,  the  old 
bear,  with  ears  laid  back  and  mouth  wide  open,  came  storm- 
ing forth,  ready  to  battle  in  defence  of  her  young.  Dehart 
heard  her  coming,  and  well  knowing  the  dangerous  predica- 
ment in  which  he  was  placed,  he  fled  as  only  one  does  who 
is  flying  for  his  life.  With  wide  leaps,  he  dashed  wildly 
over  bush  and  briar  towards  the  high  ground,  whilst  the 
bear,  unheeding  the  spot  where  her  young  one  lay  wounded 
and  moaning,  followed  close  upon  his  track,  as  if  caring  only 
for  revenge,  and  determined  to  punish  the  outraging  enemy. 
Almost  deprived  of  his  senses  by  the  near  and  threatening 
danger,  for  he  heard  the  infuriated  animal  growling  out  her 
wrath  just  behind  him,  Dehart  threw  down  his  gun,  and 
seeing  Frederick,  who,  with  his  rifle  ready  to  be  discharged, 
had  sprung  to  the  highest  point  of  the  hillock,  and  was  now 


20  BEAR  HUNTING. 

choosing  a  place  from  whence  the  shot  would  most  likely 
have  the  best  effect — he  rushed  past  him  like  one  demented, 
exclaiming,  "  Shoot — shoot ;  for  Heaven's  sake,  shoot !" 

Frederick  was  not  a  little  surprised  at  the  sudden  turn 
matters  had  taken ;  he  remained  standing  on  the  same  spot, 
and  levelled  his  gun  at  the  foaming  animal,  to  whose  rage 
he  most  likely  would  have  fallen  a  victim — for  in  such  cir- 
cumstances it  was  not  likely  that  he  could  take  a  steady  aim, 
or  send  a  bullet  exactly  as  he  wished,  had  not  Rawlins  and 
his  dogs  appeared  at  that  moment  on  the  scene  of  battle. 
He  threw  himself  directly  in  front  of  the  young  hunter,  not 
fifteen  steps  distant  from  the  infuriated  bear,  on  whom  he 
made  a  fearless  attack.  She  dashed  up  towards  him,  with 
bristling  hair  and  teeth  ready  to  devour,  but  with  one  blow 
from  his  clenched  hand  he  flung  her  on  the  ground,  and  his 
faithful  dogs  joining  heartily  in  the  fray,  pinned  her  down 
there  until  their  master  should  have  made  some  new  move- 
ment. Almost  in  the  same  instant,  the  old  man  discharged 
his  ready  rifle,  and  just  as  the  bear  had  succeeded  in 
freeing  herself  from  the  hounds,  a  bullet  from  his  practised 
hand  found  a  mark  in  her  breast  bone,  shattering  it  to 
pieces. 

The  poor  beast  turned  over  on  her  back,  and  groaned 
like  a  human  being.  Frederick  hardly  had  time  to  pull  his 
broad  hunting-knife  from  its  sheath,  until,  with  an  effort 
proceeding  from  the  strength  lent  by  the  death  struggle,  she 
once  more  dashed  off  the  dogs,  and  springing  upon  her  feet, 
looked  wildly  around,  and  seeing  her  enemy  so  near  pre- 


BEAR  HUNTING.  21 

pared  to  attack  him.  With  a  face  pale  as  death,  but  firm  in 
its  expression,  the  young  huntsman  stood  with  his  bared  knife 
in  his  convulsively  clenched  hand,  waiting  for  the  certain 
and  deadly  onset.  But  just  as  the  rolling  eyeballs  of  his 
desperate  enemy  met  his  own,  seeming  in  their  wrathful 
glancing  to  emit  sparks  of  fire,  the  sharp  crack  of  a  second 
rifle  was  heard,  and  the  well  aimed  bullet  striking  her  in 
the  head,  shattered  the  skull ;  she  fell  on  the  spot,  leaving 
the  hunters  masters  of  the  field. 

Before  Frederick  had  time  to  recognize  the  fact  of  his 
deliverance,  Thomson  stepped  forth  from  behind  a  tree 
where  he  had  hidden  himself,  and  laughing,  called  out  to  his 
surprised  companion, 

"  Thunder  and  lightning !  You  are  fixed  nicely,  with 
nothing  but  bears  around  you  !  That  shot  finished  one  of 
them,  any  how  !" 

"  Listen,  Thomson,"  answered  Frederick,  "  I  am  sure  you 
came  in  the  very  nick  of  time  to  save  me,  for  even  if  I  had 
used  the  old  savage  up  with  my  knife,  she  would  hardly 
have  let  me  off  with  a  whole  skin.  How  wicked  those  crea- 
tures are  when  they  are  driven  to  desperation." 

"Is  it  not  nice,"  rejoined  Thomson,  as  he  smiled  wag- 
gishly, "  when  you  can  no  longer  distinguish  the  animal's 
ears,  and  the  whole  head  seems  to  be  nothing  but  teeth  and 
jaws,  to  send  a  couple  of  bullets  right  into  the  open  throat? 
Ah,  Frederick,  yo  ought  to  have  been  by  last  year,  when 
we  shot  at  an  old  bear  three  times,  to  see  how  she  came  snarl- 
ing and  snorting  upon  me." 


22  BEAR  HUNTING. 

"But,  my  good  Thomson,"  interrupted  Frederick,  "this 
is  no  time  to  tell  or  listen  to  yarns, — we  are  not  through 
our  work  here.  There  is  another  young  one  sitting  some- 
where among  these  trees." 

"  The  devil  there  is !"  exclaimed  Thomson  ;  "  well,  let  us 
get  at  it.  But  where  is  Rawlins  and  Dehart  ?  I  heard  the 
shot  from  Dehart's  rifle  first." 

"  Heaven  knows  where  he  is  hidden  at  this  moment !" 
answered  Frederick,  laughing.  "  If  he  kept  on  running  at 
the  same  rate  as  he  was  when  he  rushed  past  me,  his  legs 
have  carried  him  over  a  good  bit  of  ground  before  this  time. 
But  there  comes  Rawlins  ;  and,  by  my  faith,  Dehart  too." 

And  indeed  both  men  now  came  in  sight ;  Rawlins, 
without  uttering  one  word,  either  of  command  or  inquiry, 
called  the  dogs  together,  and  ran  to  the  place  where  he 
judged  the  remaining  cub  was  concealed.  The  young  one, 
however,  during  the  fracas  with  the  others,  had  left  the 
tree,  and  taken  to  its  heels  ;  but  the  hounds  luckily  came 
on  the  warm  track,  and  snuffing,  whining,  and  yelping,  they 
followed  the  trail,  and  Rawlins  expecting  good  sport,  has- 
tened after.  Frederick  started  up  prepared  to  join  the 
keen  old  sportsman,  but  Thomson  held  him  back. 

'Stay  where  you  are!"  said  he,  "if  the  cub  he  is  after 
is  no  bigger  than  the  one  that  is  lying  there,  Rawlins  can 
soon  finish  him  without  help.  And  besides  Dehart's  dog 
must  have  fallen  in  with  the  hunt  by  this  time." 

"  A  fine  fellow  he  is,"  cried  Dehart,  who  just  now  came 
up;  "see  there—he  has  treed  the  creature  already.  I 


BEAR    HUNTING.  23 

know  the  ways  of  my  old  hunting  dog,  when  he  has  treed 
anything ;  he  sets  himself  right  down,  and  barks  out  every 
half  minute  as  loud  as  he  can  yell." 

"  Where  is  your  gun,  Dehart  ?"  inquired  Thomson,  aston- 
ished ;  "  have  you  come  here  just  to  take  a  walk  in  the 
woods  for  pleasure  ?" 

"  It  must  be  lying  somewhere  not  far  distant  from  here," 
answered  Dehart,  looking  rather  foolish,  whilst  a  very  visi- 
ble blush  appeared  on  his  embrowned  visage;  "a  briar 
bush  dragged  it  out  of  my  hand  as  I  was  coming  here  to 
meet  Fred." 

"  You  must  have  been  in  a  devilish  hurry !"  rejoined 
Thomson,  "  if  you  could  not  take  time  to  stop  and  pick  up 
your  trusty  rifle." 

Fred  bit  his  lips,  and  looked  waggishly  at  Dehart. 

"  I'll  tell  you  what,"  chimed  in  the  latter,  half  angry, 
half  laughing,  "  I  think  it  is  no  shame  for  a  man  to  show  a 
clean  pair  of  heels  when,  with  an  unloaded  gun  in  his  hand, 
and  no  hunting  knife  in  his  belt,  he  knows  a  savage  old  she 
bear  is  chasing  him  for  his  life.  But  I  say,  Fred, — tell  the 
truth — I  did  not  run  badly  ?  I  made  tracks  to  some  pur- 
pose ?" 

"I  can  testify  to  that,"  said  Frederick,  laughing  heartily. 
"  You  did  not  let  the  grass  grow  under  your  feet.  You 
ran  like  an  old  turkey  cock  with  his  wings  spread." 

"  I'll  tell  you,"  said  Dehart,  "  there  is  no  fun  in  being 
chased  by  such  an  old  bear  as  this, — a  man  can  run  as  swift 
as  a  deer,  and  will  not  get  tired." 


24  BEAR  HUN  TING. 

At  this  moment  a  shot  from  a  rifle  echoed  from  the  hol- 
low, and  the  young  men  heard  a  sound  as  though  some 
heavy  body  had  fallen. 

"  There,"  cried  Thomson,  "  old  Rawlins  has  fired  off  his 
gun  at  last.  But  it  seems  to  me,  as  things  look  in  this 
light,  that  we  have  not  made  a  bad  day's  work,  although 
we  have  not  shot  a  deer  to  carry  home  for  supper,  for  when 
we  reach  our  tent  we  will  be  able  to  sup  with  greasy  fin- 
gers." 

"  I  somewhat  doubt  that,"  said  Frederick ;  "  the  old  bear 
is  as  thin  as  one  of  Pharaoh's  lean  kine, — the  young  ones 
may  be  are  in  better  keeping.  But  what  are  we  going  to 
do  ?  stay  here  all  night,  or  go  and  look  after  our  horses?" 

"We  will  wait  until  Rawlins  comes,  before  we  decide," 
said  Thomson  ;  "  meanwhile,  we  will  bring  the  young  one 
here,  and  strip  the  skin  off  the  old  one,  since  her  flesh  is  not 
fit  to  be  eaten." 

"  Indeed,"  said  Dehart,  "  I'll  take  the  hind  legs  with  me. 
The  old  thing  showed  herself  so  eager  to  make  a  meal  of 
me,  that  I  am  determined  to  have  a  taste  of  her  flesh,  whe- 
ther it  be  good  or  bad.  But  I  must  first  hunt  up  my  gun, 
which  cannot  be  very  far  from  here.  It  will  not  be  hard 
to  find,  since  the  path  made  by  the  bear  and  myself  is 
plainly  to  be  seen." 

The  young  hunters  followed  the  plan  proposed  by  Thom- 
son,— they  brought  the  young  one  to  the  hillock  on  which 
we  described  Frederick  as  standing,  and  then  proceeded  to 
skin  the  old  bear  ;  and  in  a  few  minutes  they  were  rejoined 


BEAR     HUNTING.  25 

by  Rawlins,  who  came  up  with  the  other  cub  on  his  shoulder, 
and  followed  by  the  bounding  dogs. 

Dehart  soon  found  his  gun,  their  work  was  speedily  ended, 
and  loaded  with  a  stock  of  bear's  meat,  and  well  pleased 
with  the  sports  of  the  day,  and  their  successful  termination, 
the  merry  huntsmen  left  the  forest,  and  took  their  way  to 
the  tent  where  they  had  left  their  comrades  and  their 


My  friend  John and  myself  had  ascended  to  the  high- 
est point  of  the  hill,  where  we  wandered  around  slowly, 
partly  in  hopes  of  discovering  a  new  path,  and  partly  on  the 
look-out  for  the  troop  of  huntsmen  from  whose  company  we 
had  been  thrown  out,  for  often  on  those  heights  the  barking 
of  the  dogs  is  plainly  to  be  heard,  when  they  cannot  reach 
the  ear,  even  at  a  short  distance,  in  the  valley  below. 

It  was  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  had  as 
yet  found  nothing  to  encourage  us ;  when  all  at  once  my  dog, 
who  until  this  moment  had  kept  close  beside  me,  began  to  snuff 
the  air,  then  raising  up  his  nose,  stopped  for  a  few  seconds 
on  the  spot  where  we  all  were  standing,  and  then,  uttering 
a  short  low  growl,  he  bounded  down  the  hill,  followed  by 
the  rest  of  the  pack. 

As  John  saw  the  movement  he  turned  towards  me,  and 
in  a  tone  of  great  exultation  exclaimed, 

"Now  we  shall  feast  on  bear's  meat  this  evening  !"  and 
scarcely  allowing  himself  time  to  utter  the  words,  he  waited 
not  for  an  answer  from  me,  but  dashed  off  in  the  direction 
the  hounds  had  taken.  I  followed,  and  soon  overtook  him, 


26  BEARHUNTINQ. 

arriving  just  in  time  to  see  the  hunted  bear  breaking  through 
the  bushes.  A  slight  projection  of  rock  arrested  her  pro- 
gress for  a  moment ;  but  the  next,  as  wounded  by  a  bullet 
sent  by  John's  rifle  she  rushed  swiftly  past  me,  I  gave  her 
another,  which  also  told ;  still  she  kept  onward,  and  was 
soon  lost  to  our  sight  in  the  thicket  of  wild  briars  that 
plentifully  covered  the  ground.  Encouraged  by  our  pres- 
ence, and  smelling  the  fresh  blood  that  dropped  from  the 
poor  animal  on  the  path  over  which  she  passed,  the  hounds 
pressed  after  her  with  renewed  efforts,  and  after  chasing 
her  for  perhaps  about  four  hundred  paces,  they  again  over- 
took and  baited  her  in  her  lair. 

We  remained  looking  at  the  chaste  after  we  discharged 
our  guns ;  and  then  we  started  for,  and  arrived  at,  the 
place  of  combat  just  in  time  to  see  the  roused  up  animal 
turn  upon  her  canine  assailants.  In  her  mad  rage,  and 
with  the  same  number  of  blows  as  she  had  feet,  by  the  time 
we  had  reached  her,  she  had  killed  four  of  our  best  dogs ; 
but  the  others,  angry  as  herself,  and  not  intimidated  by  the 
manner  in  which  she  had  treated  her  first  antagonists,  threw 
themselves  so  closely  upon  her,  that  if  our  guns  had  been 
loaded,  we  could  not  have  fired  without  injuring  them. 

At  this  very  moment,  when  we  were  ready  to  join  in  the" 
fray,  a  large  brown  dog,  who  in  grappling  most  furiously 
with  the  bear  was  half  torn  to  pieces,  came  up  to  us  bleed- 
ing and  howling,  looking  up  in  our  faces  as  if  he  would  have 
asked  our  aid.  John  threw  down  his  gun,  and  drawing  his 
hunting-knife  from  its  sheath,  sprang  forward  to  the  bloody 


BEAR  HUNTING.  27 

knoll  that  was  now  the  theatre  of  action.  I  followed  his 
example ;  in  the  space  of  a  second  I  stood  by  his  side.  The 
bear  looked  up  as  we  came  forward ;  and  seeing  opposers 
she  deemed  more  worthy  of  her  prowess,  exerting  all  her 
strength  to  do  so,  she  dashed  off  the  dogs  and  rushed  upon 
us.  My  brave  comrade  stood  the  onset  firmly  ;  he  met  her 
with  bared  knife,  and  plunged  it  in  her  side.  Swift  as 
lightning  the  enraged  animal  turning  all  her  vengeance  to- 
wards him  alone,  made  a  second  rush,  and  with  such  force, 
that,  uttering  a  fearful  cry,  he  fell  to  the  ground.  I  saw 
his  fall,  and  his  cry  roused  me  to  desperation.  With  all 
the  strength  of  my  body  I  now  attacked  her,  parrying  her 
attempts  to  crush  me  by  repeated  thrusts  from  my  knife ; 
at  the  third  blow  I  saw  her  stagger,  but  with  a  desperate 
plunge  she  rushed  upon  me  for  a  last  assault.  A  thrill  of 
agony  passed  through  my  whole  frame,  and  I  sank  senseless 
on  the  ground. 

When  I  awoke  to  consciousness,  my  dogs  were  beside 
me,  licking  the  blood,  with  which  I  was  covered,  from  my 
hands  and  face.  I  attempted  to  rest,  but  was  not  able ;  a 
violent  pain  shot  through  my  left  side,  and  I  could  not 
move  my  arm, — I  believed  it  was  broken.  At  last  my 
faintness  decreased  so  that  I  could  sit  up.  I  did  so,  but 
gracious  heaven  !  what  a  sight  met  my  eyes.  The  bear  lay 
close  beside  me,  and  not  three  feet  distant  from  her  lay  my 
poor  friend,  seemingly  a  lifeless  corpse. 

With  a  cry  of  anguish  I  sprang  upon  my  feet,  for  horror 
now  gave  me  strength.  And  it  was  only  too  true ;  the  poor 


28  BEAR  HUNTING. 

man  lay  in  a  pool  of  blood,  his  face  torn  until  scarce  a  fea- 
ture could  be  distinguished,  and  his  right  arm  nearly  severed 
from  his  body.  Five  of  our  best  hounds,  with  broken  bones 
and  frightfully  lacerated  bodies,  lay  around  him ;  and  almost 
in  the  midst  of  the  circle  where  she  had  wrought  such  fear- 
ful vengeance  was  the  dead  bear,  so  covered  with  blood  that 
the  black  color  of  her  hide  was  entirely  lost.  I  was  weak 
still,  even  to  fainting,  and  could  not  move  my  left  arm,  which 
I  now  discovered  was  not  broken,  but  only  dislocated.  I 
was  at  length  able  to  go  up  to  the  spot  where  my  poor 
friend  lay  and  examine  the  body.  Not  only  was,  as  I  have 
said  before,  his  face  torn,  and  arm  half  severed  from  the 
trunk,  but  great  gashes,  from  which  the  blood  had  poured, 
were  in  his  breast ;  and  his  leg,  which  the  animal  must  have 
seized  as  she  threw  him  down,  was  in  the  same  condition. 

In  the  meantime  the  sun  had  gone  down.  I  had  all  along 
hoped  that  the  hunters,  from  whom  we  had  strayed,  would 
have  heard  our  shots  and  the  barking  of  the  dogs ;  but  it 
was  now  night,  and  no  man  came  to  my  relief  or  answered 
to  my  call.  I  shouted — I  cried  in  vain !  No  one  heard  me. 
I  now  thought  of  kindling  a  fire  by  rubbing  bits  of  bark  to- 
gether, but  my  left  arm  was  so  much  swelled  that  I  found  it 
impossible  to  succeed  by  that  plan. 

The  night  was  very  cold,  and  to  pass  it  in  such  a  condi- 
tion as  I  was,  without  fire,  was  sure  to  bring  disease  upon 
me,  if  not  death.  I  therefore  renewed  my  efforts,  and  man- 
aged to  tear  the  back  part  of  my  hunting  blowse,  (for  the 
front  was  saturated  with  blood,)  and  having  divided  it  into 


BEAR  HUNTING.  29 

shreds,  I  strewed  powder  upon  them,  and  with  my  right  hand 
rubbed  it  in.  Then  putting  some  more  into  my  gun,  I  rammed 
it  down,  and  firing  it  over  the  rags  I  had  thus  prepared,  I  had 
fire  at  once.  I  heaped  up  some  dry  leaves  upon  the  little  flame 
I  had  kindled,  to  which  I  added  some  sun-dried  twigs  that  lay 
profusely  scattered  around.  In  using  my  lungs  for  a  bel- 
lows, I  at  length,  after  great  exertion  and  indescribable  suf- 
fering, succeeded  in  getting  a  fire  to  burn. 

It  was,  by  the  time  I  had  finished,  perfectly  dark.  The 
dogs  were  very  hungry,  and  came  up  to  me  whining,  as  if 
asking  for  the  food  they  were  wont  to  receive  from  my 
hand.  It  was  impossible  for  me,  with  my  disabled  arm,  to 
cut  up  the  bear ;  but,  after  some  unsuccessful  efforts,  I  at 
last  ripped  up  her  body  with  my  knife,  and  drawing  out  the 
entrails,  threw  them  to  the  dogs,  who  began  at  once  to  de- 
rour  them.  Two  of  them,  however,  would  not  eat ;  they 
were  the  peculiar  property  and  favorites  of  my  friend  John ; 
and  now  sitting  beside  their  dead  master,  they  gazed  into 
the  face  made  rigid  by  the  touch  of  death ;  and  were  not 
attracted  from  their  watching  by  the  feasting  of  the  others, 
or  my  urging  to  a  participation. 

In  hopes  of  obtaining  help,  I  fired  my  gun  again  and 
q  gain ;  the  echoes  died  away  in  the  distance,  but  no  rustle 
betrayed  the  approach  of  any  living  thing : — the  forest,  in 
its  death-like  stillness,  seemed,  to  my  excited  fancy,  but  as 
a  wild  and  dreary  sepulchre. 

I  felt  that  I  was  growing  more  and  more  unwell,  and  in 
consequence  became  each  moment  more  and  more  dis- 


30  BEAR  HUNTING. 

pirited.  My  stomach  was  disturbed  by  severe  vomiting, 
and  my  shoulder  was  dreadfully  painful.  At  length,  after 
the  first  revulsions  were  over,  and  I  somewhat  recovered, 
I  rolled  myself  in  my  hunter's  blanket  as  well  as  I  could, 
laid  myself  down  before  the  fire,  and  under  the  blind  influ- 
ence of  the  benevolent  god  of  sleep,  I  lost  all  consciousness 
of  my  unhappy  condition  for  many  hours.  Whether  I  really 
slept,  or  only  lay  in  a  half  swoon,  I  cannot  tell ;  but  I  know 
I  dreamed  I  was  at  home,  that  I  was  lying  in  my  own  soft 
bed,  that  my  mother  brought  me  warm  tea,  and  laid  her 
hand  on  my  breast ;  I  heard  the  children  laughing  as  they 
played  in  the  street ;  I  saw  snow  on  the  roofs,  and  it  seemed 
to  me  as  if  it  was  very  cold  without,  and  the  chill  of  winter 
on  everything. 

I  will  never  wish  my  worst  enemy  to  have  such  an  awak- 
ing as  it  was  my  lot  to  experience.  When  consciousness 
returned,  I  found  my  dog  lying  beside  me  with  his  nose 
upon  my  breast ;  the  fire  had  nearly  burned  down, — I  was 
shivering  with  chills  that  were  the  heralds  of  disease ;  the 
wolves  were  howling  round  in  voracious  anxiety  to  attack 
the  corpse,  and  only  deterred  by  the  natural  fear  all  ani- 
mals have  of  a  living  human  being,  from  devouring  it  at 
once. 

With  a  desperate  exertion  I  was  at  last  able  to  rise — to 
move  my  stiffened  limbs — to  gather  up  some  wood  and  blow 
up  the  glimmering  coals  into  a  blaze.  As  the  fire  glanced 
and  flickered  upon  the  pale  and  blood-stained  features  of 
the  dead,  I  imagined  I  saw  the  mouth  and  eyelids  move. 


BEAR  HUNTING.  31 

In  fearful  expectation,  I  started  towards  it,  but  only  to  dis- 
cover how  my  fancy  had  mocked  me.  Each  moment  the 
howlings  of  the  wolves  became  louder  and  more  frequent ; 
and  my  dogs,  of  whose  number  five  were  yet  living,  answered 
in  tones  scarce  less  appalling.  Their  cries  were  unlike  those 
ever  uttered  by  them  before — neither  the  defiant  bark  with 
which  they  joined  in  the  chase,  or  note  of  pain  from  being 
wounded,  but  they  sounded  like  the  boding  of  coming  evil 
to  the  living,  or  the  death-wail  over  the  slain. 

Partly  to  keep  the  wolves  away,  and  partly  in  the  hope 
of  making  myself  heard,  and  so  to  bring  help,  with  unspeak- 
able pain  and  trouble  I  loaded  my  gun  and  fired  three  times ; 
and  who  can  describe  my  joy  when  I  heard  three  shots  in 
the  distance;  that  they  were  answers  to  mine  I  did  not 
doubt.  Once  more  I  loaded,  and  as  I  discharged  my  piece 
this  time,  I  felt  that  life  or  death  depended  on  the  issue,  for 
I  had  used  the  last  grain  of  powder. 

The  gray  morn  had  already  begun  to  dapple  in  the  east, 
when  I  heard  a  shot  not  far  distant.  Could  it  be  ? — was  I 
not  deceived  ?  No  ;  there  was  a  second,  then  a  third ;  hu- 
man help  must  be  near. 

The  shipwrecked  sailor,  clinging  to  a  plank  in  the  open 
sea  as  he  drifts  about,  expecting  every  moment  to  be  swal- 
lowed up  by  the  rolling  waves,  sees  a  ship  in  the  distance,  and 
he  puts  forth  all  his  strength  to  hail  it ;  they  must  hear  or 
he  must  die.  And  so  I  called — I  shouted  for  aid.  A  hu- 
man voice  answered  me  soon  after.  The  dogs  changed  their 
howlings  to  a  low  growl,  betokening  that  some  one  was 


32  BEAR  HUNTING. 

approaching ;  the  undergrowth  crackled  as  if  being  trodden 
upon,  and  the  nextminute  one  of  the  Indians  belonging'  to  our 
party  came  forward  from  the  thicket.  As  soon  as  he  saw 
me  his  countenance  lighted  up,  and  he  uttered  an  exclama- 
tion indicative  of  pleasure,  but  nearly  in  the  same  moment 
it  gave  way  to  an  expression  of  horror,  and  he  started  back 
at  the  horrible  sight  that  met  his  eyes.  But  those  sons  of 
the  forest  despise  the  betrayal  of  human  emotions ;  and  the 
weakness  was  immediately  subdued.  He  went  up  to  the 
lifeless  body  of  my  poor  friend,  and  examined  carefully  to 
see  if  any  spark  of  vitality  remained,  then  shook  his  head 
without  uttering  a  word.  .  Finding  he  could  do  nothing 
there,  he  turned  to  me,  looked  at  my  swelled  arm  and  felt 
my  shoulder,  still  maintaining  the  silence  customary  among 
those  children  of  nature ;  then  folding  his  hands  together, 
something  in  the  shape  of  a  horn,  he  placed  them  before  his 
mouth,  and  turning  his  face  in  the  direction  from  which  he 
came,  he  gave  a  loud  piercing  cry.  The  call  was  answered 
from  no  great  distance ;  and  a  few  minutes  afterwards  I 
found  myself  surrounded  by  the  whole  party  of  huntsmen 
with  whom  I  had  set  out.  The  meeting  between  myself  and 
my  friends  was  sorrowful  indeed.  I  shook  them  by  the  hand, 
and  related  in  as  few  words  as  possible  what  had  happened. 
My  old  host  scolded,  and  said  "it  served  us  right." 

"There  is  not  much  danger,"  said  he,  "  when,  in  wound- 
ing a  bear  with  your  knife,  he  falls  and  the  dogs  rush 
upon  him ;  but  if  he  lies  a  little  while,  and  he  sees  a  man 
whom  he  knows  is  his  worst  enemy  coming  towards  him,  he 


BEAR  HUNTING.  33 

throws  them  from  him,  and  dashes  at  his  new  assailant  with 
all  the  strength  he  is  able  to  put  forth ;  and  wo  to  the  poor 
fellow  if  he  reaches  him." 

In  the  meantime  the  Indians  had  scooped  out  a  hollow 
with  their  tomahawks  to  serve  for  a  grave;  and  having 
wrapped  the  corpse  in  a  hunter's  blanket,  they  laid  it  within 
it,  and  covered  the  whole  with  earth  and  heavy  stones.  They 
next  cut  down  a  few  young  saplings,  and  out  of  their  trunks 
they  planted  a  sort  of  fence — the  branches  being  interlaid  be- 
tween the  openings,  which  inclosed  and  protected  the  grave 
from  the  depredation  of  wild  beasts. 

This  melancholy  office  for  the  dead  was  performed  without 
bustle,  and  in  profound  silence ;  and  during  its  noiseless 
operation,  I  could  not  prevent  a  cold  shudder  from  creeping 
over  me  at  the  thought,  that  if  it  had  been  my  lot  to  have 
met  the  same  destiny  that  had  fallen  to  poor  John,  even  so 
coldly  and  quietly  would  these  men  have  laid  me  in  a  forest 
grave ;  with  the  same  apathy  they  would  have  piled  the 
stones  above  my  head.  What  was  it  to  them  whether  it  was 
he  or  myself  ?  Poor  John !  He  was  alone,  and,  like  my- 
self, without  a  friend  in  this  strange  land;  and  it  was  most 
probable  that  the  relatives  whom  he  had  left  behind,  would 
never  hear  of  the  fate  that  had  befallen  him. 

Ah,  how  many  thousands  perish  in  this  manner  in  America, 
of  whom  no  tidings  is  ever  heard — of  whom,  after  a  few 
months,  no  man  knows  anything  more  than  if  they  had 
never  existed. 

The  Indians,  after  having  laid  the  dead  to  sleep  in  the 


34  BEAR  HUNTING. 

quiet  earth,  and  finished  their  work,  came  up  to  me.  Two 
of  the  oldest  began  to  examine  the  state  of  my  body — one 
moved  my  dislocated  arm,  the  other  looked  me  steadfastly 
in  the  face.  The  movement  gave  me  intolerable  pain ;  but 
being  well  acquainted  with  the  stoicism  of  these  people,  I 
gave  no  indication  of  suffering  by  any  sound,  since  I  knew 
they  would  esteem  it  a  mark  of  puerility.  After  awhile 
one  of  them  took  hold  of  my  arm,  and  laid  his  hand  upon 
my  shoulder,  and  while  the  other,  going  behind  me,  em- 
braced my  body,  they  both  began  to  pull,  the  one  my  arm, 
the  other  my  person,  with  all  the  strength  of  which  they 
were  possessed.  I  felt  a  sudden,  sharp,  almost  unendurable 
pain  in  my  shoulder,  that  caused  me  nearly  to  faint ;  and  in 
spite  of  all  my  heroic  resolution  to  betray  no  sign  of  suffer- 
ing, I  could  not  prevent  a  loud  cry  from  escaping.  But 
almost  immediately  the  pain  was  gone,  for  I  at  once  discov- 
ered the  bone  had  been  drawn  back  to  its  place. 

My  old  host  now  inquired  if  I  felt  strong  enough  to  ride 
on  horseback  to  his  house.  I  answered  that  I  was;  and 
after  he  had  thrown  the  skin  and  flesh  of  the  bear  to  his 
followers,  he  helped  me  to  mount  a  pony,  and  we  set  out 
slowly  on  our  way  to  his  home,  leaving  the  place  so  fraught 
with  horror  to  me  to  the  wolves  and  vultures.  As  we  jour- 
neyed, I  had  to  bear  most  excruciating  pain  in  my  lacerated 
body;  but  I  murmured  not,  for  I  hoped  soon  to  reach  a 
quiet  spot  where  I  could  lay  me  down. 

The  day  was  now  completely  gone,  and  darkness  had 
come  on,  yet  we  had  a  full  German  mile  between  us  and  the 


BEAR  HUN  TING.  35 

house  we  were  so  desirous  to  reach.  My  old  host  asked  if 
I  could  ride  this  distance,  or  should  we  encamp  where  we 
now  were — the  spot  being  particularly  favorable,  as  posses- 
sing abundance  of  wood  and  water.  I  had  had  enough  of 
night-watching,  so  I  prepared  to  go  on,  and  resolved  tof 
make  every  exertion  to  reach  a  home  where  I  knew  I  could 
rest.  An  hour's  ride  brought  us  to  the  desired  haven.  I 
had  become  so  stiff  from  riding  in  the  night  air,  that  they 
had  to  lift  me  down  from  the  horse.  Having  reached  the 
room  I  was  to  occupy,  wearied  almost  to  death,  I  threw 
myself  on  the  bed — but  the  desired  sleep  came  not ;  a  vio- 
lent fever  came  on,  and  the  whole  night  frightful  imaginings 
presented  themselves  before  my  wandering  senses.  Next 
morning  I  was  something  better ;  but  for  many  days  the 
good  care  and  nursing  of  my  honest  old  host  and  his  kind 
family  were  necessary  before  I  was  restored  to  my  usual 
state  of  health. 

Wayborne,  a  farmer  in  Missouri,  went  one  day  to  look 
after  his  horses  that  were  grazing  in  the  forest.  He  had 
his  gun  with  him  as  usual,  but  no  ammunition,  save  the 
single  charge  which  was  in  it,  but  it  was  so  much  a  matter 
of  course  to  carry  his  trusty  rifle,  that  loaded  or  not  it 
seemed  he  must  take  it.  As  he  pursued  his  homeward  path, 
near  sundown,  he  saw  a  large  bear  run  across  the  way,  a 
short  distance  before  him.  He  fired — the  bear  fell,  but 
almost  immediately  recovering  himself,  he  started  up,  and 
ran  at  full  speed  into  a  deep  ravine  bordering  on  the  way, 
and  was  at  once  lost  to  sight.  Wayborue  followed  the  trail, 


36  BEAR  HUNTING. 

plainly  marked  by  the  blood  of  the  wounded  animal,  as  long 
as  he  could  see ;  but  the  lateness  of  the  hour  warned  him  to 
give  up  the  pursuit,  and  in  the  hope  of  finding  the  animal 
dead  on  his  return  in  the  morning,  he  took  the  nearest  path 
that  led  to  his  home,  and  reached  it  in  safety. 

He  rose  early,  and  having  armed  himself  with  a  pitchfork 
and  axe,  set  out  in  company  with  his  son,  a  boy  of  eleven 
years  of  age,  to  seek  the  bear,  not  doubting  but  that  he 
should  be  able  to  find  him,  either  dead  or  living.  The  dell 
in  which  he  had  hidden  himself  was  near  ninety  feet  deep, 
in  the  midst  of  which,  and  nearly  hidden  in  places  by  the 
thick  bushes  under  which  it  flowed,  was  a  brook ;  the  place 
was  solitary,  wild,  and  dangerous  in  a  high  degree.  The 
farmer  did  not  find  the  object  of  his  search  quite  as  soon  as 
he  expected,  but  not  discouraged,  he  went  farther  within  the 
hollow,  and  at  length  he  saw  him  on  the  opposite  side,  sit- 
ting on  a  flat  rock  that  rose  perhaps  thirty  feet  above  the 
stream.  He  waded  through  the  brook,  and  gained  the 
bank,  coming  quite  close  to  the  wounded  animal,  who  never 
moved  from  his  seat  on  the  rock,  and  without  the  slightest 
mark  of  being  disturbed,  watched  every  movement  of  the 
stranger.  Wayborne  having  gotten  within  three  steps  of 
him,  made  a  thrust  with  his  pitchfork,  intending  to  pierce 
his  body,  but  at  the  same  instant  he  found  himself  in  the  rude 
embrace  of  his  shaggy  foe.  Winding  his  hairy  fore  limbs 
closely  round  him,  Bruin  pressed  him  as  firmly  as  though 
he  had  him  in  a  vice,  to  his  breast ;  and  although  the  farmer 
resisted  this  dangerous  demonstration  of  affection  to  the 


BEAR  HUNTING.  37 

utmost  of  his  strength,  the  grasp  was  not  released  even  for 
the  space  of  a  second.  In  the  struggle,  the  bear  lost  his 
footing  on  the  rock — both  rolled  down  the  precipice  into 
the  brook,  where  they  lay,  until  Wayborne,  having  recov- 
ered from  the  surprise  occasioned  by  this  unexpected  onset, 
had  time  to  plan  how  he  could  best  contend  with  his 
enemy. 

Greatly  enraged,  the  latter  had  torn  the  flesh  from  his 
left  arm,  and  now  with  open  mouth  and  greedy  jaws,  was 
preparing  to  seize  him  by  the  neck.  One  moment  more, 
and  he  would  have  ceased  to  exist ;  but  with  that  presence 
of  mind,  which  none  but  men  accustomed  to  danger  are  able 
to  call  up,  he  managed  to  free  his  right  arm,  and  thrust  it 
into  the  animal's  throat  as  far  as  he  could  reach,  with  the 
intention  of  strangling  him.  But  in  this  he  did  not  succeed, 
and  as  they  rolled  over  and  over  in  the  brook,  he  tried  to 
press  his  head  under  the  water.  Whether  he  would  have 
been  able  to  accomplish  this  latter  purpose,  time  did  not 
suffice  to  show ;  for  his  son,  having  witnessed  the  strife  from 
behind  the  bushes  where  he  was  hidden,  seeing  the  danger 
that  threatened  his  father,  now  sprang  forth,  and  struck  the 
bear  on  the  head  with  the  axe  which  he  carried,  with  so 
much  force  that  he  shattered  the  skull.  This  blow  freed 
him  from  the  embrace  that  would  otherwise  have  proved 
deadly,  but  although  a  man  of  uncommon  strength,  he  was 
so  weakened  by  the  loss  of  blood  and  the  crushing  he  re- 
ceived, that  he  was  scarcely  able  to  drag  himself  along.  He 
reached  his  home,  however,  without  accident,  but  kept  his 


38  BEAR  HUNTING. 

bed  for  many  weeks,  and  months  elapsed  before  the  arm 
and  shoulder,  from  which  the  bear  had  torn  the  flesh,  was 
healed. 

Notwithstanding  all  this  suffering,  Wayborne  yet  remained 
a  passionate  lover  of  the  chase,  and  met  with  many  perilous 
adventures.  One  day  on  which  he  went  out  to  the  forest 
to  shoot  a  deer,  he  espied  two  young  bears  playing  about, 
but  as  soon  as  they  saw  him,  they  left  off  their  sports  and  fled 
for  safety  to  a  lofty  pine  tree,  up  whose  trunk  they  clam- 
bered. Seeing  that  the  tree  was  easy  to  climb,  and  sup- 
posing the  old  one  was  out  on  a  foraging  expedition,  he 
resolved,  without  delay,  to  take  advantage  of  the  time  so 
favorable,  and  carry  off  the  cubs  alive.  Without  much 
trouble  he  gained  the  branches,  among  which  they  were 
cowering,  when  Madam  Bruin  came  trotting  forward,  and 
after  tarrying  for  a  few  seconds  at  the  foot  of  the  tree,  pre- 
pared to  ascend.  She  looked  up,  and  when  she  saw  an  un- 
invited guest  in  the  premises  she  considered  her  own,  and 
so  near  her  cubs,  she  stopped,  and  seemed 'to  consider  in 
what  manner  she  could  best  punish  the  intruder.  Way- 
borne  found  his  present  situation  by  no  means  pleasant,  but 
he  was  a  resolute  man,  and  determined  at  once  upon  the 
plan  he  should  pursue  to  extricate  himself  from  this  painful 
dilemma.  He  descended  to  the  lowest  limb,  as  being  the 
spot  where  he  could  best  use  his  cutlass,  for  most  unfortu- 
nately he  had  left  his  gun  below,  as  it  would  have  incom- 
moded him  in  climbing.  The  bear  now  mounted  in  all 
haste  to  meet  him,  and  when  within  striking  distance,  she 


BEAK  HUNTING.  39 

put  ouf  her  paw  to  grasp  him — he  met  it  with  a  blow  from 
his  hanger,  and  cut  it  off.  She  now  retreated  as  hastily  as 
she  had  advanced,  but  all  at  once  she  returned,  and  in 
dreadful  rage  prepared  to  revenge  the  injury  by  attacking 
the  fearless  hunter  with  her  teeth.  As  she  opened  her  jaws, 
and  displayed  their  frightful  garniture,  Wayborne  coolly 
thrust  his  cutlass  down  her  throat ;  she  fell  from  the  branch 
like  a  dead  weight,  and  lay  at  the  foot  of  the  tree  for  many 
minutes  without  motion.  But  to  the  great  consternation  of 
the  hunter,  she  revived,  and  prepared  to  ascend  again ;  but 
after  climbing  a  few  feet,  she  remained  clinging  to  the 
trunk,  for  she  was  too  much  wounded  to  proceed.  She 
continued  in  this  position  for  some  hours,  when  she  slowly 
retreated,  and  laid  herself  down  quietly  at  the  foot  of  the 
tree. 

The  evening  came  on,  but  the  animal  moved  not  from  the 
place  she  had  chosen  to  watch  both  the  hunter  and  her 
young,  yet  she  lay  so  immovable  that  her  enemy  was  often 
on  the  point  of  descending,  believing  her  dead.  Perched 
upon  his  high  branch,  he  was  ready  to  curse  the  destiny 
that  brought  him  into  such  a  fearful  predicament,  for  with 
the  young  bears  above  him,  and  the  old  one  below,  he  felt 
himself  anything  but  comfortable ;  he  was  like  a  man  be- 
tween two  fires,  liable  to  be  burned  by  either.  But  ho 
trusted  to  his  experience  in  bear  hunting,  that  it  would  en- 
able him  to  be  secure,  even  in  this  close  neighborhood  with 
the  cubs — and  for  the  present  he  felt  he  had  nothing  to  fear 
from  the  dam,  for  she  was  evidently  unable  to  climb.  Yet 


40  BEAR  HUNTING. 

the  prospect  of  having  to  pass  the  night  in  such  discomfort 
was  horrible ;  hunger  and  thirst  began  to  make  themselves 
painfully  felt,  and,  as  if  to  make  his  situation  more  deplora- 
ble, dark  clouds,  betokening  a  storm,  began  to  curtain  the 
heavens.  It  soon  became  so  dark  that  Wayborne  could  no 
longer  distinguish  objects  below ;  but  a  few  low  growls  occa- 
sionally at  the  foot  of  the  tree,  served  to  remind  him  that 
the  grim  sentinel  was  still  keeping  watch  below.  Each  mo- 
ment increased  the  horror  of  his  situation ;  the  little  bears 
now  began  to  be  troublesome,  but  his  thundering  voice,  and 
a  few  blows  from  his  hanger,  brought  them  to  submission. 
The  wind  arose,  rain  drops  began  to  fall,  the  lightning 
flashed,  and  thunder  rolled  in  the  distance.  Uneasy,  but 
not  dismayed,  the  hunter  listened,  in  hope  that  he  should 
hear  nothing  more  of  the  enemy  below;  the  growlings, 
indeed,  had  ceased,  but  the  flashes  of  lightning  still  exhib- 
ited her  at  her  post,  with  head  upturned,  and  eyes  fixed 
upon  him.  The  dreary  night  thus  passed,  whilst  the  poor 
man,  sighing  and  groaning,  vainly  endeavored  to  make  the 
best  of  his  uneasy  perch,  by  turning  and  twisting  from  side 
to  side ;  and  as  sleep  was  not  to  be  thought  of  whilst  sur- 
rounded with  tempest  and  danger,  he  could  find  no  better 
means  of  driving  time  away  than  by  keeping  the  cubs  in 
order,  for  they,  uneasy  as  himself,  did  not  appear  to  be  better 
pleased  with  their  lodgings. 

The  storm  passed  over,  and  at  last  the  gray  dawn  was 
seen  to  lighten  in  the  east,  and  Wayborne,  rather  than 
remain  any  longer  in  his  roosting  position,  resolved  to 


BEAR  HUNTING.  41 

descend,  and  battle  for  life  or  death  with  his  grim  foe.  As 
he  still  sat  considering  in  what  manner  this  were  best 
accomplished,  he  heard  human  voices  in  the  distance ;  but 
they  were  so  far  off  that  he  had  but  little  hope  of  being  able 
to  make  himself  heard,  and  as  he  looked  down,  there  at  the 
root  of  the  tree  was  the  bear  still  watching  his  every  move- 
ment with  angry  eyes.  But  at  length  the  sound  of  human 
voices  was  heard,  and  with  what  joy  he  heard  his  own  name 
called;  his  neighbors  becoming  uneasy  at  his  protracted 
absence,  had  come  out  to  seek  him.  They  came  ,in  sight, 
next  they  advanced  towards  the  tree ;  the  bear  raised  her- 
self from  her  recumbent  posture,  and  with  snarling  teeth 
and  gaping  jaws,  prepared  to  give  battle  to  the  new  in- 
truders. But  she  was  too  weak  to  attack,  and  her  resistance 
was  but  short ;  several  bullets  pierced  her  at  the  same  time, 
and  as  soon  as  our  brave  woodsman  saw  that  she  was  dead, 
glad  to  be  liberated,  he  descended  from  his  night  perch — 
not  forgetting,  however,  to  carry  the  young  bears  with  him. 


AFTER  having  spent  the  whole  morning  in  vainly  endeav- 
oring to  come  on  the  trail  of  a  bear,  one  of  our  party,  young 
Smith,  who  had  been  scouting  about,  returned  with  the  pleas- 
ing intelligence  of  having  found  the  track  of  a  very  large  ani- 
mal, and  followed  the  footprints  to  its  den.  We  at  once  set 
about  preparing  pine  splinters  for  torches,  and  having 
finished  this  business,  started  off  with  all  possible  speed  in 
pursuit  of  the  bear.  At  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
we  reached  the  spot  designated  by  our  comrade,  and  where 
the  footmarks  were  plainly  visible.  Our  first  operation  was 
to  prepare  a  good  meal,  in  order  to  strengthen  us  for  the 
task  in  which  we  were  about  to  engage ;  and  whilst  the  others 
who  had  kindled  a  fire  were  roasting  meat  on  the  coals,  I 
occupied  myself  in  examining  the  outside  of  the  cave,  in 
which  there  could  be  no  doubt  the  animal  had  made  his  lair. 
The  place  was  every  way  suitable  for  a  retreat  for  wild 
beasts,  the  cavern  itself  being  under  a  steep  precipice  of 
limestone  rock,  at  least  thirty  feet  high  and  three  hundred 
long,  and  having  four  separate  entrances,  of  which,  how- 
ever, only  one  was  large  enough  to  admit  a  man  or  a 
bear., 

I  was  called  to  partake  of  the  meal  now  ready,  and  after 

(42) 


THE  BEAR'S  DEN.  43 

we  had  all  refreshed  ourselves,  we  prepared  to  invade  the 
cave,  and  encounter  our  grisly  enemy.  We  took  but  one 
gun,  yet  every  one  had  his  hunting-knife  in  his  belt,  in  ad- 
dition to  which  I  buckled  the  strap  of  my  powder  horn  round 
my  body.  With  my  gun  in  my  right  hand,  and  a  torch  of 
pine  splinters  in  the  left,  I  trod  through  the  dark  entrance 
into  the  interior  of  the  cave.  I  found  it  was  of  great  depth, 
reaching  far  within  the  hill — in  height  four  feet,  and  in 
breadth  two.  We  marched  in  Indian  file — I  was  fore- 
most, young  Smith  just  behind  me,  and  to  him  his  father 
followed  closely;  the  son  carried  a  second  torch,  the  latter 
a  bundle  of  finely  splintered  pine,  with  which  we  were  to 
renew  the  torches  as  they  burned  down.  The  walls  of  the 
cave  were  entirely  of  rock,  and  its  bottom  quite  even  with 
the  ground.  After  advancing  from  seventy  to  'eighty  steps 
without  any  inconvenience,  the  passage,  hitherto  quite 
straight,  now  turned  towards  the  right ;  and  after  being  at 
first  obliged  to  stoop  as  we  advanced,  it  became  so  low  we 
had  to  proceed  on  all  fours.  The  earth  at  the  bottom,  hith- 
erto hard  and  dry,  now  became  softer,  and  on  the  damp  im- 
pressible clay,  the  marks  of  bears'  feet  passing  in  and  out, 
and  some  of  them  so  fresh  as  to  show  they  had  been  quite 
recently  trodden,  were  to  be  seen.  The  farther  we  advanced 
the  more  straitened'  the  passage  became,  and  at  last  so 
narrow  that  we  had  to  crawl  at  full  length,  and  at  one  spot 
there  was  barely  space  for  me  to  squeeze  my  body  through. 
This  was  a  work  of  some  difficulty,  as  I  had  to  carry  a  torch 
in  my  left  hand,  and  a  gun  in  my  right,  but  I  accomplished 


44  THE  BEAR'S  DEN. 

it  by  lying  flat  down  on  my  face,  and  stretching  out  my 
hands  before  me,  and  only  by  doing  this  I  forced  myself 
through. 

This  opening  was  round,  and  the  rocks  that  formed  its 
walls  were  black  and  smooth,  rendered  so  by  friction  from 
the  bodies  of  the  animals  that  were  continually  pressing 
through  it,  and  this  circumstance  was  sufficient  proof  that 
for  centuries  they  must  have  made  this  cave  their  den,  re- 
sorting to  it  in  times  of  pursuit,  or  sleeping  there  throughout 
the  winter. 

Most  beautiful  stalactites  hung  from  the  roof,  whose  sharp 
and  jagged  projections  not  a  little  hindered  our  progress, 
for  in  many  places  the  free  space  was  scarcely  two  feet  high, 
and  in  others  so  straight  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I  could 
force  myself  through  at  all. 

It  was  very  evident  that  we  were  the  first  men  who  had 
ever  penetrated  this  dreary  abode  of  nature's  forming,  for 
although  the  soft  clay  of  the  bottom  retained  the  impress  of 
many  tracks  made  by  animals,  no  mark  of  human  footstep 
among  them  showed  that  of  our  race  any  had  been  as 
daring  as  ourselves.  In  many  places  we  found  petrifactions 
that  bore  the  marks  of  bears'  feet  upon  their  stony  surface, 
and  as  it  takes  a  long  time  to  effect  such  changes,  it  was 
most  likely  they  had  been  made  on  what  was  soft  earth  cen- 
turies ago. 

It  was  a  dismal  place  to  be  in,  and  more  than  once  the 
thought  flashed  through  my  brain  that  we  might  not  be  able 
to  find  our  way  out  of  the  labyrinth  we  had  so  thoughtlessly 


THE  BEAR'S  DEN.  45 

entered ;  and  instead  of  taking  the  prey  we  intended,  secure 
a  grave  for  ourselves.  But  I  comforted  myself  with  the 
remembrance  of  the  many  adventures  and  dangers  through 
which  I  had  passed  without  being  harmed,  and  with  great 
confidence  in  my  trusty  rifle,  which  had  never  yet  failed  me, 
I  crept  resolutely  forward.  It  was  remarkable  to  see  what 
numbers  of  bats  were  hanging  by  their  hind  legs  from  the 
roof  of  the  cavern,  and  when  disturbed  by  the  light  of  our 
torches,  they  dropped  from  their  pendulous  position,  and 
with  shrill  cries  flew  wildly  about,  to  the  manifest  danger  of 
our  eyes  and  flambeaux.  The  one  which  I  carried  was 
nearly  burned  down ;  I  stopped  for  a  moment  to  renew  it 
with  some  of  the  splinters  from  old  Smith's  bundle,  and  as 
I  did  so,  I  imagined  I  heard  a  noise  like  a  gentle  whining  at 
no  great  distance  from  me.  I  listened  attentively — it  was 
like  the  faint  murmurings  made  by  very  young  animals 
whilst  sucking,  and  as  it  was  accompanied  by  a  low  grumb- 
ling, I  could  not  doubt  but  that  we  were  approaching  the 
lair  of  a  nursing  bear. 

I  proceeded,  and  the  next  moment  found  myself  in  a 
more  roomy  place  than  that  over  which  I  had  lately  passed,  for 
I  could  now  raise  myself  half  upright ;  and  as  I  was  some- 
what weary  with  the  exertions  I  had  been  obliged  to  make, 
I  stopped  to  rest  for  a  second  or  two,  and  turning  to  my 
comrades,  inquired  if  they  heard  anything.  They  whispered 
an  affirmative,  and  begged  me  to  delay  proceeding  until  we 
should  have  consulted  what  plan  was  best  to  be  pursued  in 
the  present  unexpected  circumstance.  We  had  certainly 


46  THE  BEAR'S  DEN. 

reckoned  on  finding  a  sleeping  bear  within  the  cave ;  but  a 
waking  one,  nursing  her  cubs,  and  with  all  the  maternal  in- 
stinct alive,  we  had  not  calculated  upon.  'It  was  a  very 
different  matter,  and  made  the  undertaking  look  rather  ugly. 
So  early  in  the  season,  we  were  altogether  surprised  at  the 
discovery,  although  old  Smith  told  me  afterwards,  that  in 
Arkansas  he  had  often  come  upon  nursling  cubs  as  early  as 
New  Year.  But  for  the  matter  in  hand — truly  every  one 
who  had  ever  seen  a  bear  start  up  with  bristling  ears  and 
open  jaws,  ready  to  defend  her  young,  may  form  an  idea 
of  the  danger  we  were  about  to  encounter ;  and  we  had  been 
too  often  engaged  in  bear  hunts  ourselves,  not  to  be  fully 
aware  of  the  peril  of  our  present  situation,  enclosed  in  so 
narrow  a  space  as  to  hinder  every  movement.  But  we 
were  there,  and  so  was  the  bear ;  and  not  one  of  us  was 
cowardly  enough  to  utter  a  single  word  that  savored  of 
retreating. 

I  now  examined  my  gun  to  see  if  all  was  in  order,  and 
then  set  forward  on  my  difficult  path.  As  we  crept  along 
slowly,  old  Smith  gravely  advised  me  to  take  a  steady  aim, 
and  make  a  good  shot. 

"It  will  be  best  for  yourself  if  you  do,"  he  added,  drily, 
"  since,  if  your  gun  fails,  as  you  are  foremost,  the  angry 
beast  will  dispatch  you  first." 

This  was  comforting ;  but  I  had  no  response  to  make,  for 
we  were  gradually  coming  nearer  to  the  growling  mother, 
who  must  have  heard  us  long  before,  and  now  was  listening 
attentively  to  the  bustle  caused  by  our  movements — a  bustle 


THE  BEAR'S  DEN.  47 

so  entirely  at  variance  with  the  deep  silence  that  had  rested 
for  ages  in  that  dreary  place.  At  length  I  got  so  near  that 
I  could  hear  the  whining  of  the  young  bears,  and  the  growl- 
ing of  the  old  one  quite  distinctly.  I  held  the  torch  behind 
my  head,  and  saw  the  glowing  eyes  of  the  animal  plainly  by 
the  red  glare.  I  then  set  about  cleansing  the  barrel  of  my 
gun  from  the  clay  that  had  got  into  it  as  I  crawled  along, 
renewed  my  torch,  and  once  more  crept  forward  towards  the 
black  shaggy  bundle  that  I  could  now  plainly  distinguish  as 
it  lay  rolled  up  before  me. 

The  decisive  moment  had  come.  As  soon  as  I  could 
make  out  the  head  of  the  animal  as  distinct  from  the  dark 
mass,  of  which  it  formed  a  part,  I  made  my  preparations 
for  attack  as  well  as  defence.  The  bear  had  raised  herself 
half  upright,  and  sat  swaying  with  that  undulating  move* 
ment  peculiar  to  these  animals ;  but  when  I  had  brought  my 
gun  to  a  position  likely  to  bear  successfully  upon  her,  she 
disappointed  me  by  suddenly  rising,  and  at  the  same  instant 
vanished  in  the  darkness.  We  seized  this  opportunity  to 
press  forward  to  the  lair  she  had  left,  where  we  found  three 
cubs,  nice,  plump  little  fellows,  that  made  rather  a  loud  out- 
cry when  they  saw  the  light.  These  expressions  of  their 
admiration  for  a  sight  so  novel,  were  not  peculiarly  pleasant 
for  us  to  hear,  for  we  had  our  fears  that,  as  the  mother  most 
likely  was  not  very  far  off,  she  would  hear  those  cries  and 
return  in  great  wrath.  Still  we  would  not  silence  them  by 
the  only  method  by  which  we  could  easily  have  done  so, — 
namely,  killing  them ;  we  were  anxious  to  take  them  alive, 


48  THE  BEAR'S  DEN. 

and  so  we  begged  old  Smith  to  stay  behind  to  quiet  them, 
and  keep  up  our  fire,  whilst  his  son  and  myself  should  press 
forward  and  find  out  where  the  old  one  had  hidden  herself. 
The  old  man  was  quite  pleased  with  the  plan ;  and  cower- 
ing down  beside  the  little  whiners,  he  stuck  a  finger  in  the 
mouth  of  each,  and  letting  them  suck  it,  he  soon  had  them 
silenced. 

Close  behind  the  spot  which  the  bear  had  chosen  for  her 
lair,  the  cave  showed  two  large  openings,  one  leading  to  the 
right,  the  other  to  the  left.  The  soft  clay  in  the  right  hand 
aperture  showed  the  freshly  impressed  foot-tracks  made  by 
the  object  of  our  pursuit  a  few  minutes  before,  and  this  we 
followed. 

Our  first  difficulty  was  from  the  renewed  cries  of  the 
cubs,  who,  not  satisfied  with  old  Smith's  manner  of  nursing, 
whined  louder  than  ever,  and  made  us  consider  in  how  truly 
perilous  a  condition  we  were  if  the  old  bear,  on  hearing  their 
moanings,  forgetting  her  cowardice,  should  be  disposed  to 
return  to  the  help  of  her  young,  and  find  the  way  blocked 
up  by  our  bodies.  We  had  nothing  else  to  expect  but  that 
she  would  kill,  and,  in  the  truest  sense  of  the  word,  eat  her 
way  through  us, — for  as  no  other  opening  either  from  above 
or  below  was  to  be  found,  she  could  do  nothing  else.  But 
even  as  we  consulted  in  a  whisper  concerning  our  dangerous 
position,  the  cries  ceased.  We  then  crept  on  with  renewed 
courage,  for  from  all  that  we  had  seen  of  the  old  bear,  we 
concluded  she  must  be  more  than  ordinarily  cowardly,  since 
the  most  timid  animal  will  battle  for  its  young. 


THE  BEAR'S  DEN.  49 

After  we  had  advanced  sixty  or  eighty  feet  farther,  we 
reached  a  spring  that  flowed  for  a  considerable  distance 
through  the  cave,  then  losing  itself  in  some  kind  of  a  sub- 
terranean recess,  seemed  to  be  provided  by  the  providential 
care  that  watches  over  all  for  the  comfort  of  the  savage 
beasts  that  had  made  this  cavern  their  sheltering  place  for 
so  many  centuries.  This  spring  was,  perhaps,  one  foot  and 
a  half  in  depth,  and  its  channel  quite  one  foot  in  breadth. 
As  we  advanced  with  our  feet  in  the  water,  our  progress  be- 
came considerably  easier,  and  as  from  the  narrowness  of 
the  passage  it  was  both  painful  and  tedious,  we  felt  no 
small  portion  of  relief  from  this  circumstance.  But  our 
comfort  was  of  short  duration,  for  the  way  once  more 
became  narrow ;  and  after  working  my  course  through  a 
place  particularly  strait  and  inconvenient,  as  I  stopped  to 
take  such  breath  as  the  close  cavern  permitted,  it  s-eemed  to 
me  as  if  I  heard  the  deep,  low  growling  of  the  bear  at  no 
great  distance  from  me. 

Although  I  had  listened  many  times  before  this  to  these 
same  sounds,  and  now  that  I  expected  to  hear  and 
was  waiting  to  catch  them,  yet  the  sudden  announcement 
that  the  enemy  was  so  near,  surprised  me  to  such  a  degree 
4that  I  had  nearly  dropped  my  torch  into  the  water.  But  I 
soon  recovered  from  my  temporary  confusion,  and  holding 
the  blazing  flambeau  as  high  as  possible,  and  greatly  to  the 
discomfiture  of  some  innocent  bats,  who  were  hanging  on 
the  rocky  wall,  I  saw  Madame  Bruin  quite  plainly,  sitting 
upright,  not  ten  steps  distant  from  me,  snapping  her  teeth, 
4 


60  THE  BEAR'S  DEN. 

and  tearing  up  the  earth  with  her  sharp  claws.  Young 
Smith,  who  was  close  behind  me,  now  laid  his  hand  upon  my 
foot,  and  whispered  that  he  heard  the  bear.  As  I  was  in 
possession  of  this  knowledge  to  a  more  painful  degree  than 
himself,  I  only  signified  to  him  to  keep  silent,  and  crept 
quietly  a  few  paces  further  until  I  came  to  a  place  from 
whence  I  believed  I  could  shoot  successfully.  Without 
leaving  my  place  in  the  channel,  formed  by  the  little  spring, 
I  raised  myself  as  well  as  possible,  and  laying  my  gun  on 
my  left  knee,  prepared  to  fire. 

My  comrade,  who  was  watching  every  movement  with 
great  anxiety,  now  begged  me  for  Heaven's  sake  to  aim 
truly,  for  if  my  shot  should  fail  we  were  both  lost.  Al- 
though, being  foremost,  I  was  nearer  to  danger  than  him- 
self, yet  I  would  not  have  exchanged  places  with  him;  for 
as  he  could  not  in  the  least  see  what  was  going  on,  he  very 
naturally  was  ready  to  fear  the  worst,  and  suspense  is  harder 
to  bear  than  reality.  For  myself,  let  my  perilous  circum- 
stances be  what  they  may,  I  would  always  rather  look 
straight  into  the  face  of  danger  than  remain  tormented  by 
suspense. 

The  bear,  perfectly  aware  of  my  near  neighborhood,  and 
by  no  means  pleased  with  it,  now  began  snapping  and  snar- 
ling furiously ;  her  eyes  glowed  like  live  coals,  and  with  her 
ears  laid  back,  she  swayed  her  body  to  and  fro  in  restless 
movement,  indicative  of  her  anger  at  the  intrusion.  For  my- 
self there  was  now  no  choice  left  but  to  aim  at  her  head ;  this, 
as  I  sat  bent  down  in  the  water,  was  easy  to  do,  and  if  the 


THE  BEAR'S  DEN.        •  51 

bullet  failed  of  this  mark,  it  would  be  sure  to  find  one  in  her 
breast. 

As  I  lay  there,  directing  my  aim,  the  thought  flashed 
through  my  brain,  how  helplessly  I  was  enclosed  here,  and 
what  my  fate  must  be,  in  case  the  bullet  missed ;  and  the 
remembrance  of  my  loved  ones  at  home,  shot  with  an  inde- 
scribable pang  across  my  hitherto  firm  spirit.  This  weak- 
ness was  but  for  a  moment ;  my  natural  temerity  returned, 
and  immediately  danger,  both  present,  past  and  future,  were 
all  forgotten  in  renewed  efforts  to  accomplish  my  purpose.  I 
aimed  a  long  time  without  daring  to  fire,  for  the  animal  did 
not  remain  quiet  for  one  second ;  and  at  last  I  drew  the 
trigger,  and  fired  too  quickly. 

In  an  instant  the  cavern  was  filled  with  thick  smoke,  and 
painful  meanings  proclaimed  the  animal  to  be  wounded.  We 
did  not,  however,  take  time  to  stay  to  examine  how  far  we  had 
succeeded,  but  crept  backwards  as  quickly  as  the  narrow 
space  allowed,  until  we  reached  a  wider  and  higher  spot 
that  afforded  us  room  to  reload  our  guns,  intending,  when 
this  was  done,  to  return  to  the  place  of  battle. 

We  had  not  crawled  a  hundred  paces  in  this  crab-like 
fashion,  until  I  was  aware  that  the  wounded  bear,  snorting 
and  gnashing  her  teeth,  (and  it  sounded  awfully  in  that 
dreary  cave,)  was  beginning  to  follow  us.  I  believed  I  was 
lost ;  yet  I  called  to  my  companion,  telling  him  the  danger 
of  the  old  one's  coming,  and  bidding  him  make  all  the  haste 
he  could  to  save  his  own  and  my  life.  It  was  altogether  unne- 
cessary to  urge  him  to  hurry ;  for  no  matter  how  great  was 


52  THE  BEAR'S  DEN. 

our  desire  for  retreat,  we  found  it,  owing  to  the  straitness  of 
the  way,  a  very  tedious  operation  ;  and  to  increase  our  per- 
turbation, the  snorting  becoming  more  distinct  each  moment, 
showed  the  bear  was  gaining  rapidly  upon  us.  I  had  been 
obliged  to  leave  my  gun  behind  some  time  since  as  it  hin- 
dered my  progress  greatly,  and  in  my  present  circumstan- 
ces was  of  no  use. 

As  I  now,  continually  on  the  watch,  looked  steadfastly 
before  me,  I  saw  the  glaring  eyes  of  the  bear,  who  was  by 
this  time  but  a  few  steps  distant  from  me.  At  the  s.ame  in- 
stant, in  endeavoring  to  accelerate  my  retrograde  movement, 
I  struck  my  elbow  against  one  of  the  sharp  projections  of 
the  cave ;  the  torch  fell  from,  my  hand,  and  darkness,  black 
as  the  raven's  wing,  encompassed  me, — for  although  young 
Smith  had  a  torch,  my  body  so  completely  filled  the  aper- 
ture, that  not  a  single  ray  from  it  reached  me. 

With  the  instinctive  impulse  which  Nature  prompts  for 
self  preservation,  I  seized  the  still  blazing  pine,  and  threw  it 
right  into  the  face  of  the  approaching  animal.  She  re- 
treated for  a  short  while,  but  soon  recovering  from  the  tem- 
porary panic  occasioned  by  the  fiery  messenger,  especially 
as  it  almost  immediately  died  out,  she  again  set  forward, 
and  in  a  few  seconds  was  as  near  as  before. 

In  this  critical  moment  my  comrade  all  at  once  remained 
motionless,  and  in  a  tremulous  tone  informed  me  he  could 
go  no  further,  for  the  opening  ended  here.  To  make  the 
matter  worse,  as  he  groped  about  to  find  some  way  of 
egress,  he  struck  his  right  hand,  in  which  he  held  the  torch, 


THE  BEAR'S  DEN.  53 

into  the  water,  and  then  in  a  moment  we  were  left  in  im- 
penetrable darkness. 

I  had  no  time  to  answer  him,  for  the  bear,  whose  progress 
had  been  more  rapid  than  ours,  had  so  gained  upon  us,  and 
was  now  so  close  to  me,  that  by  stretching  out  my  arm  I 
could  have  touched  her.  I  felt  her  hot  breath  in  my  face ; 
a  few  moments  now  must  decide  the  strife  ;  I  therefore,  with 
my  left  arm  somewhat  advanced,  and  my  right,  in  the  hand 
of  which  I  grasped  my  trusty  hunting-knife,  drawn  back- 
ward, awaited  her  coming,  and  expected  with  every  beating 
pulse  to  feel  the  grasp  of  her  claws. 

The  danger  was  now  so  near  that  it  had  lost  all  its  ter- 
rors. I  certainly  thought  of  nothing  else  than  to  sell  my 
life  as  dearly  as  possible,  since  I  had  given  up  all  hope  of 
being  delivered  from  this  dreadful  dilemma. 

In  the  meantime  young  Smith  had  not  been  idle.  In  the 
conviction  that  we  could  not  remain  without  light,  he  had 
speedily  taken  out  his  flint  and  tinder  from  his  pocket,  and 
the  first  intimation  I  had  of  his  intention,  was  the  striking 
of  his  knife  against  the  stone.  This  was  the  only  interrup- 
tion of  the  death-like  silence  that  reigned  around,  for  at  the 
first  stroke  the  bear  ceased  snorting,  and  now  remained 
immovable,  as  if  to  listen  to  the  unwonted  sound. 

After  the  lapse  of  a  few  moments  of  painful  anxiety, 
Smith  at  length  spoke, 

"  I  have  fire,"  said  he,  "  quick,  give  me  the  powder-flask 
and  a  few  rags." 

I  cut  the  strap  of  my  powder  horn  and  loosed  it,  tore  a 


piece  out  of  my  hunting-shirt,  and  handing  both  backwards  to 
him — for  I  could  not  turn  round — in  a  few  moments  had 
the  comfort  of  seeing  the  torch  re-lighted.  With  its  first 
gleams  flickering  upon  the  rocky  sides  of  this  sepulchral 
recess,  hope  once  more  sprung  up  within  our  breasts,  or,  I 
I  should  rather  say  in  mine,  for  my  comrade,  as  I  after- 
wards learned,  had  no  thought  of  danger ;  for  in  the  first 
place,  he  did  not  know  how  near  the  enemy  was,  and  in  the 
second,  was  so  busy  in  trying  to  rekindle  his  torch  as 
quickly  as  possible,  that  he  had  no  time  to  think  of  any 
thing  else.  Aided  by  its  friendly  light,  in  another  moment 
he  was  able  to  turn  round,  and  his  voice  sounded  like  a 
harp  from  heaven  in  my  ears,  as  he  called  out  to  me  he  had 
found  the  right  opening. 

Smith  had  now  greatly  the  advantage  of  me,  in  that  he 
could  creep  head  foremost,  whereas  I,  who  was  obliged  to 
face  the  foe,  had  still  to  pursue  my  crab-like  course.  As  I 
thrust  forward  a  few  blazing  splinters,  which  Smith  had  re- 
kindled and  handed  me,  into  the  bear's  face,  she  renewed 
her  growling,  and  gnashing  her  teeth  fearfully,  retreated 
some  paces  backward.  The  encouragement  afforded  by 
this  was  however  of  short  duration,  for  she  soon  resumed 
her  forward  path,  and  so  rapidly  that  our  condition  was  but 
little  improved  by  the  temporary  interruption. 

Necessity  makes  man  ingenious  !  To  keep  the  animal 
from  throwing  herself  upon  my  neck,  I  laid  a  few  splinters 
of  the  burning  pine  on  the  earthy  bottom  of  the  cave,  and 
to  my  inexpressible  joy  I  saw  her  stop — the  cowardly  ani- 


mal  could  not  venture  through  the  flame.  We  took  advan- 
tage of  this  pause,  and  slid  along  with  all  the  haste  we 
could  towards  the  spot  where  we  had  left  old  Smith  with  the 
cubs.  My  comrade  reached  the  place  a  few  minutes  before 
me ;  I  heard  him  call  out  to  his  father  to  give  up  his  nurs- 
ing, and  get  out  of  the  way  in  as  short  a  time  as  possible, 
for  "the  bear  was  coming."  These  were  the  only  words 
exchanged,  and  indeed  the  snorting  and  puffing  now  again 
coming  nearer,  we  found  we  had  no  time  to  lose.  The  flame 
had  soon  become  extinguished  on  the  damp  earth,  and  the 
bear,  no  longer  in  dread  of  a  fiery  enemy,  had  recom- 
menced her  pursuit  of  us. 

We  crept  over  the  place  where  she  had  had  her  lair,  and 
from  which  the  father  and  son  were  now  withdrawn.  Here 
I  found  out  how  the  old  backwoodsman  had  so  suddenly 
quieted  the  cubs.  They  were  dead  ;  he  had  knocked  their 
heads  against  the  rocky  wall,  and  to  this  forethought,  cruel 
as  it  was,  we  most  likely  owed  our  lives  ;  for  one  single  cry 
from  those  young  ones  whilst  we  were  in  the  darkness  occa- 
sioned by  the  loss  of  our  torches,  would  have  roused  the 
wounded  animal  into  actual  madness,  so  that  she  would  have 
rushed  upon  at  once  and  torn  us  in  pieces,  or  else  so  wounded 
us  that  we  should  have  found  a  miserable  death  within  that 
dreary  cave. 

Having  advanced  perhaps  an  hundred  steps  from  the  lair 
towards  the  entrance,  I  stopped  to  take  breath  and  listen, 
but  I  heard  not  the  least  sound.  I  called  aloud  to  my  two 
comrades  that  they  might  wait  for  me,  for  there  was  now 


no  symptom  of  the  bear's  coming.  They  stopped  as  soon 
as  they  had  reached  a  more  roomy  spot,  and  I  soon  joined 
them,  all  three  of  us  glad  to  rest,  and  have  an  opportunity 
to  hold  counsel  as  to  our  future  proceeding. 

Old  Smith  was  of  opinion  that  the  bear  had  certainly 
gone  back  to  her  lair,  and  was  now  lying  down  beside  her 
young  ones  ;  that  one  of  us  should  creep  to  our  tent  at  the 
entrance  of  the  cave,  and  get  another  gun,  for  it  would  not 
be  prudent  to  pass  by  the  provoked  animal  in  order  to  ob- 
tain mine,  which  it  will  be  remembered  I  had  left  behind. 

But  I  determined,  before  I  undertook  to  creep  along  the 
narrow  and  difficult  opening  that  led  to  the  mouth  of  the 
cavern,  that  I  would  go  back  quietly,  and  take  a  peep  at 
the  lair,  to  see  if  indeed  the  old  bear  was  living  or  dead, 
for  I  could  not  but  think  that  my  bullet  had  told  well. 
But  as  I  came  near,  and  my  torch  fully  lighted  up  the  spot, 
nothing  of  the  wounded  animal  was  to  be  seen.  My  loud 
call  brought  my  comrades ;  we  sought  all  around,  and  going 
some  distance  further  back  we  found  by  the  profuse  blood- 
marks  that  the  poor  creature,  instead  of  going  back  to  her 
old  lair,  had  turned  aside  into  the  left  hand  passage. 

My  gun  lay  about  three  hundred  steps  distant  in  the 
opening  on  the  right,  and  it  cost  me  no  little  trouble  to 
recover  it.  At  last  I  found  it,  and  having  freed  it  from  the 
mud  and  blood  with  which  it  was  covered,  I  loaded  it  and 
went  back  to  my  comrades  with  as  little  delay  as  possible. 
Although  fairly  worn  out  with  the  fatigue  we  had  under- 
gone, we  were  still  too  much  excited  to  think  of  taking 


rest.  We  were  all  animated  by  one  wish,  namely,  to  end 
the  battle  so  hardly  fought  as  speedily  as  possible,  and  to  get 
out  of  the  damp,  unhealthy  atmosphere  of  the  cavern,  which 
we  now  began  to  feel  painfully  oppressive. 

The  left  hand  passage  was  as  narrow  and  impracticable 
as  the  right,  but  happily  the  bear  had  not  crept  very  far 
into  it.  In  a  few  seconds  we  reached  the  place  where  she 
was  sitting,  and  with  foaming  mouth  and  rage-glancing  eyes 
was  awaiting  our  coming.  I  advanced  until  I  was  within 
four  or  five  steps  of  her,  and  then  raising  myself  to  as  erect 
a  posture  as  the  narrow  opening  permitted,  I  laid  my  gun 
on  the  wrist  of  my  left  hand,  in  which  I  held  the  torch,  and 
touched  the  trigger  just  at  the  moment  when  she  held  her 
head  quiet  for  the  space  of  a  second.  The  cavern  returned 
a  dull  echo  to  the  report,  and  the  whole  place  was  filled  with 
thick  smoke.  1  could  not  see  one  inch  before  me,  but  I 
heard  the  bear  moving  herself  and  moaning,  and  so  I  con- 
cluded I  had  hit  her  in  the  right  spot  this  time — the  bullet 
was  truly  sped ;  when  the  smoke  had  cleared  away,  she  lay 
just  three  paces  from  me  quite  dead. 

We  had  conquered,  but  how  sadly  were  we  now  convinced 
of  to  how  little  purpose  our  troublesome  and  dangerous  un- 
dertaking had  been,  for  we  were  all  too  weary  to  think  of  car- 
rying the  heavy  carcase  of  this  huge  animal  away  with  us. 
Nothing,  therefore,  remained  for  us  but  to  be  contented  with 
our  victory,  and  leave  the  trophy  behind. 

Our  way  back  was  pursued  with  as  much  speed  as  wr 
exhausted  bodies  permitted,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  had 


±  O.  K     &  EAR     O 


reached  the  mouth  of  the  cave.  But  in  all  that  remains  of 
life,  I  will  never  forget  the  impression  made  upon  me  by 
the  pure  cool  night  air,  as  I  inhaled  large  breaths  of  the 
sweet  and  balmy  odors  of  the  forest,  and  gazed  upon  the 
blue  heaven  above  me,  whose  clear  calm  brow,  gemmed  with 
thousands  of  stars,  offered  so  strong  a  contrast  to  the  place 
we  had  left,  and  the  reckless  sport  in  which  we  had  been 
engaged. 


SngjjlinrljunL 


A  HUNTER  in  Texas  one  day,  in  full  pursuit  of  a  roe,  fell 
into  a  deep  funnel-shaped  pit,  which,  worn  away  by  the 
washing  of  repeated  rains,  was  found  in  the  prairie,  and  to 
his  great  affright  he  found  it  tenanted  by  a  large  gray  bear, 
who  did  not  seem  at  all  to  relish  his  sudden  intrusion.  The 
huge  animal  seized  upon  him ;  a  fearful  battle  ensued,  in 
which  the  poor  hunter,  together  with  a  leg  and  arm  broken, 
was  frightfully  torn  and  bitten ;  but  at  last  had  the  good 
fortune  to  kill  his  savage  antagonist.  He  was  obliged  to 
remain  for  many  days  in  the  pit,  for  he  was  too  much 
wounded  to  crawl  out.  During  this  time  he  lived  on  the 
rough  flesh  of  the  bear,  and  kept  his  wounds  open,  that  they 
might  heal  slowly  but  effectually.  His  strength  returned 
gradually,  and  at  last  he  worked  his  painful  way  out  of  the 
chasm,  and  gained  the  open  prairie.  With  great  trouble  he 
crept  to  a  deep  dell,  where  he  knew  a  brook  flowed,  for,  for 
many  days,  no  drop  of  water  had  moistened  his  lips.  He 
found  it  at  this  time  nearly  dry,  but  enough  remained  in 
the  channel  for  him ;  he  lay  down  beside  it,  and  as  he  swal- 
lowed the  cool  pure  element,  he  felt  that  new  life  was 
infused.  Far  from  home  or  any  human  habitation,  he 


60  BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD. 

dragged  himself  from  one  pool  to  another,  from  which  he 
gathered  frogs  and  small  fish  in  order  to  sustain  life. 

One  day  whilst  thus  employed,  he  saw  a  wolf  pursuing  a 
deer,  which  at  length  he  hunted  down  and  killed.  He  crept 
out  of  the  dell,  where  he  had  all  this  time  remained,  and 
having  frightened  the  wolf  from  his  prey,  laid  himself  down 
near  it,  and  made  more  than  one  good  meal  ere  he  left  the 
carcase.  This  was  strong  food,  and  he  soon  felt  the  revivi- 
fying effects  on  his  worn  out  frame.  Returning  to  the  glen, 
he  found  himself  able  to  travel  slowly,  and  accordingly  fol- 
lowed the  course  of  the  brook  until  it  was  lost  in  a  large 
stream,  of  which  he  knew  not  the  name,  but  trusting 
to  its  calm  current,  he  suffered  himself  to  be  carried  down- 
wards until  it  emptied  itself  in  the  Mississippi.  Here  he 
found  the  hollow  trunk  of  a  tree,  and  having  succeeded  in 
launching  it,  he  entered  within  it,  and  gave  himself  up  to  be 
carried,  he  knew  not  where,  by  the  "Father  of  Waters," 
and  the  mighty  stream  bore  him  onwards,  until  he  came  in 
sight  of  a  fort  that  formed  one  of  the  outposts  on  that  wild 
frontier.  It  was  lucky  for  him  he  reached  it  in  the  day- 
time, for  had  it  been  in  the  night,  no  watcher  on  that  lonely 
fortress  would  have  been  able  to  distinguish  him,  and  far 
distant  as  those  places  are  from  each  other,  he  must  have 
perished  in  the  wide  waste  of  waters  ere  another  could  have 
been  reached.  The  sentinels,  however,  saw  him — a  boat 
was  sent  to  his  rescue,  and,  more  dead  than  alive,  he  was 
taken  to  the  fort,  where  good  medical  attendance  was  pro- 
vided ;  his  wounds  soon  healed,  but  his  leg  that  was  broken 


BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD.  61 

could  never  be  properly  set— he  therefore  remained  lame 
for  life. 

As  unpleasant  an  adventure  as  this,  although  less  disas- 
trous in  its  consequences,  was  experienced  by  an  American 
hunter,  who  describes  it  in  the  following  manner : — 

"  When  I  was  a  youth  of  perhaps  eighteen  years  old,  I 
went  to  the  woods  with  my  axe,  intending  to  cut  down  a 
tree,  and  as  I  knocked  about,  examining  the  hollow  trunk, 
I  felt  pretty  sure  a  bear  was  housekeeping  inside.  As  I  did 
not  want  the  animal  to  see  or  hear  me,  I  clambered  up  into 
the  branches,  intending  to  look  down  into  the  hollow  open- 
ing, in  order  to  find  out  if  the  lord  of  the  mansion  was  at 
home ;  and  if  he  was,  I  intended  to  drive  him  out.  I  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  top,  and  was  just  about  to  thrust  my 
head  into  Bruin's  quarters,  when  all  at  once  the  rotten  edge 
of  the  trunk  on  which  I  knelt,  soft  as  a  sponge,  gave  way, 
and  instead  of  being  a  spy,  I  became  a  visitor,  for  I  fell 
right  into  the  hole.  Fortunately  for  me,  I  went  feet  fore- 
most, so  that  my  head  remained  upwards,  for  the  aperture 
was  so  narrow  that  it  would  have  been  a  slow  business  to 
turn  round ;  as  it  was  accompanied  with  a  considerable 
shower  of  dust  and  rotten  wood,  I  lighted  right  on  Master 
Bruin,  who  was  lying  at  the  bottom.  I  had  come  upon  him 
so  suddenly,  and  pressed  his  head  so  closely  as  I  fell,  that 
he  was  not  in  a  condition  to  use  his  teeth,  which  doubtless 
I  would  by  no  means  have  found  pleasant.  Besides,  the 
animal  must  have  been  as  much  surprised  as  myself,  for 


he  lay  quite  still,  not  daring  to  move  under  his  sudden 
burden. 

"  Things  remained  thus  for  a  few  seconds,  when  I  began 
to  collect  my  thoughts,  and  consider  how  I  might  manage 
to  ascend  to  the  top.  The  opening  was  only  so  wide,  that 
by  placing  my  back  against  one  side,  and  pressing  my  knees 
on  the  other,  I  was  able  to  work  my  way  upwards. 

"  By  this  means,  painful  as  it  was,  I  at  length  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  top  ;  and  having  done  so,  I  laid  myself 
across  the  opening  in  order  to  take  breath ;  but  I  had  not 
been  more  than  a  minute  in  this  position,  until  I  felt  the 
head  of  Bruin  touch  my  feet.  It  was  not  often  that  he 
was  surprised  by  such  sudden  visits ;  and  it  was  but  natural 
that  he  should  climb  after  me  to  see  what  the  sudden  distur- 
bance meant.  That  he  was  displeased  was  certain,  for  he 
looked  so  savage  I  felt  I  had  not  a  moment  to  lose.  I, 
therefore,  swung  myself  to  the  nearest  branch,  and  without 
waiting  to  venture  another  glance  at  him,  or  consider  the 
danger  of  a  sudden  leap,  I  jumped  down  to  the  earth  at 
once,  although  at  a  distance  of  twenty  feet.  I  may  say 
I  reached  it  happily,  for,  though  much  bruised,  and  my 
muscles  so  strained  that  I  could  not  move  without  pain,  none 
of  my  bones  were  broken. 

"  I  lay  for  a  considerable  time  at  the  foot  of  the  tree  in 
order  to  recover  breath  after  my  hazardous  leap;  and  I 
would  have  been  in  no  haste  to  rise,  had  not  a  certain  omi- 
nous growling  reminded  me  of  my  old  neighbor.  I  looked 
up,  and  to  my  great  terror  saw  that  Bruin  was  coming 


dqwn  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  and  only  six  feet  distant  from 
the  ground.  Time  was  too  precious  to  waste  much  of  it  in 
consideration.  I  seized  my  gun,  and  aiming  at  the  bear's 
head  just  behind  the  ear,  I  shot  him  dead  at  the  very  mo- 
ment he  touched  the  earth  with  his  feet.  Since  that  time  I 
have  never  repeated  the  attempt  to  visit  a  bear  in  his  own 
dwelling — being  perfectly  satisfied  with  this  encounter." 

A  similar  adventure  befell  a  hunter  in  Ohio,  which  he  de- 
scribes in  the  following  manner : 

"Nearly  twenty  years  ago  I  went  with  five  of  my  comrades 
across  the  Ohio  to  a  famous  hunting-place  in  Kentucky, 
where,  at  that  time,  all  sorts  of  game  were  to  be  found  in 
abundance,  and  bears  ran  about  in  such  plenty  as  the 
hogs  now  do  with  us.  After  we  had  had  a  merry  hunting 
spell  for  a  few  days  we  resolved  to  rest ;  but  one  morning 
whilst  my  comrades  were  sleeping  I  went  to  the  forest,  and 
as  I  walked  about  quietly,  I  saw  a  tree  not  far  from  me  that 
seemed  to  be  hollow,  for  it  had  a  large  opening  at  the  top. 
'Thunder!'  said  I  to  myself;  '  that  tree  looks  exactly  as  if 
it  was  made  for  winter  quarters  for  the  fat  black  gentry.' 
I  went  up  and  examined  it  on  all  sides,  and  there,  sure 
enough,  I  found  plenty  of  marks  to  show  that  a  bear  had 
climbed  up  and  down. 

"  'Well,  then,'  said  I  once  more  to  myself,  'it  will  not  be 
hard  for  me  to  climb  up  and  take  a  look  at  Bruin's  quar- 
ters. If  it  smells  of  bears  it  will  be  easy  to  call  for  help, 
and  we  can  throw  fire  down  the  opening  and  smoke  him  out; 
but  if  there  should  be  nothing  within,  it  would  be  a  pity  to 
waste  the  time.' 


"  No  sooner  planned  than  done.  By  the  help  of  a  young 
tree  that  grew  close  beside  the  hollow  oak,  I  climbed  up  and 
stuck  my  head  into  the  opening.  It  smelt  strongly  of  bears ; 
but  close  above  the  spot  where  I  then  was,  I  perceived  the 
trunk  had  another  aperture ;  so  I  climbed  still  higher,  in 
order  to  thrust  my  nose  into  this  also.  I  stepped  rather 
carelessly  on  the  edge  of  the  first ;  a  part  of  the  rotten 
wood  gave  way,  and  I  fell ;  like  a  bullet  shot  from  the  bar- 
rel of  a  gun,  I  slid  softly  and  swiftly  down  to  the  bottom 
of  the  hollow  tree.  As  I  landed  there  without  injury,  my 
first  care  was  to  examine  the  premises,  and  think  over  my 
own  condition — for  I  was  not  particularly  pleased  with  the 
idea  of  sharing  this  narrow  room  with  a  bear.  This  was 
soon  done,  and  I  was  comforted — nothing  was  within  but  the 
soft  rotten  wood  on  which  I  was  standing ;  nevertheless  the 
interior  showed  me  that  the  place  either  was  occupied  by 
bears  at  present,  or  had  been  a  short  time  before.  In  the 
first  place,  the  strong  smell  was  not  to  be  mistaken ;  and 
added  to  this,  the  inside,  by  the  constant  climbing  in  and 
out,  was  scraped  and  polished  as  smoothly  as  if  it  had  been 
chiseled. 

"  As  soon  as  I  had  satisfied  myself  with  my  survey,  I  began 
to  think  of  getting  out ;  but  only  imagine  my  horror  when 
I  found  my  departure  by  no  means  easy,  since  to  climb  on 
that  smooth  wall  it  was  necessary  to  have  the  claws  and 
muscular  power  of  a  bear.  I  would  not  wish  my  worst 
enemy  such  a  moment  of  anguish  as  was  mine  when  I  made 
this  discovery.  Drops  of  cold  sweat  burst  from  every  pore 


in  my  body,  as  darkly  brooding  over  the  unfortunate  issue 
of  my  adventure,  I  cowered  down  at  the  very  bottom  of  the 
hollow  to  consider  what  I  could  do  to  effect  my  extrication. 
Shouting  would  have  been  of  no  use,  for  there  was  no  house 
to  be  found  within  a  circuit  of  eighty  English  miles,  except 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Ohio ;  and  I  could  not  hope 
that  by  any  lucky  chance  some  one  of  my  comrades  would  come 
to  my  neighborhood  and  rescue,  especially  as  on  the  day 
before  we  had  agreed  to  go  farther  down  the  river,  and  they, 
on  missing  me,  would  naturally  suppose  I  had  gone  on  be- 
fore. The  thought  that  thus  enclosed  I  must  perish  misera- 
bly with  hunger,  shot  like  a  flash  of  lightning  through  my 
brain.  I  started  up  in  terror  at  the  horrible  idea,  and  en- 
deavored with  a  strength  born  of  despair,  to  clamber  anew 
up  the  steep  and  slippery  ascent.  In  vain — I  could  not 
accomplish  anything.  There  was  not  the  slightest  projec- 
tion or  roughness  on  which  I  could  lay  hold  ;  and  the  trunk 
that  was  narrow  enough  at  the  top,  was  too  wide  below  for 
me  to  place  my  back  against  it,  and  ascend  in  the  manner 
one  would  a  chimney.  I  was  almost  frantic ;  thoughts  of 
escaping  by  suicide  flashed  through  my  brain,  and  my 
greatest  comfort  was  my  hunting-knife  that  hung  at  my 
side.  'This,'  thought  I,  'shall  at  least  save  me  from  the 
horrible  pain  of  dying  from  hunger.' 

"  As  I  thus  sa  t  and  mused  over  my  sad  circumstances,  fold- 
ing my  hands  convulsively,  it  seemed  to  me  as  if  I  heard  a 
noise  outside  of  my  wooden  prison.  I  held  my  breath  and 
listened.  It  sounded  like  something  moving  and  scratching 


66  BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD. 

on  the  trunk  of  the  tree.  Yes,  it  was  on  the  tree,  and  no 
mistake ;  it  was  higher  than  the  place  where  I  lay  crouched. 
I  was  about  to  cry  aloud,  but  just  at  this  moment  the  aper- 
ture above  me  became  closed  as  by  some  opaque  body,  and 
I  was  surrounded  by  deep  darkness.  I  could  not  doubt  for 
one  moment  what  was  the  cause :  it  was  the  bear  returning 
to  his  den  ! 

"  What  was  I  to  do  ?  Should  I  meet  him  in  battle  and 
struggle  for  my  life  ?  The  issue  of  contending  with  such 
an  enemy  was  so  certain,  it  was  scarcely  worth  striving 
for.  Yet  with  that  instinctive  feeling  of  self-preservation 
which  nature  prompts,  even  in  the  most  desperate  circum- 
stances, I  drew  my  knife  from  its  sheath,  and  waited  with 
painful  expectation  the  descent  of  the  animal,  who  little 
foreboding  what  kind  of  a  guest  he  was  to  find  below,  was 
coming  as  leisurely  as  if  he  were  to  have  the  premises  all  to 
himself.  All  at  once  a  different  feeling  came  across  me — a 
sudden  thought  flashed  over  my  soul,  and  to  this  thought  1 
owed  my  preservation  from  death.  I  replaced  my  knife  in 
its  sheath,  and  in  the  same  instant  the  bear  was  close  above 
me — they  always  go  backwards,  you  know,  down  a  hollow 
tree.  I  grasped  the  shaggy  hide  with  both  my  hands,  and 
thus  raising  myself  up  a  little,  with  an  almost  despairing  force 
I  clasped  him  round  the  haunches,  and  taking  hold  of  the 
short  tail  with  my  teeth,  I  hung  on  to  him  like  a  leech. 
What  the  bear  thought  of  such  a  singular  reception  in  his 
own  house  I  cannot  tell ;  but  this  I  know,  that  in  his  first 
fright — for  he  certainly  was  taken  aback — he  made  a  most 


BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD.  6T 

vigorous  scratching  in  the  rotten  wood,  and  with  a  wonder- 
ful effort  of  strength,  since  he  had  more  weight  to  bear 
than  his  own,  in  wild  haste  he  hurried  to  work  his  way  to 
the  top.  There  was  a  visible  difference  between  it  and  the 
leisurely  manner  in  which  he  had  come  down. 

"My  greatest  anxiety  now  was,  that  he  would  not  have 
strength  enough  to  accomplish  the  ascent,  burdened  thus 
with  myself.  But  there  was  no  need  of  fear — he  went  as 
though  on  wheels.  Scarcely  had  I  found  myself  with  my 
head  above,  breathing  the  pure  air  of  heaven,  when  I  let  go 
my  hold  both  of  teeth  and  hands,  and  freed  the  affrighted 
animal  from  his  unexpected  load.  My  next  effort  was  to 
take  a  firm  hold  on  the  edge  of  the  opening,  as  a  second 
descent  was  in  no  wise  desirable,  particularly  as  I  had  no 
reason  to  calculate  on  the  bear  coming  a  second  time  to  my 
rescue.  Like  a  flash  of  lightning  he  was  down  the  tree,  not 
once  looking  round  to  see  what  had  occasioned  his  fright ; 
and  before  I  could  place  myself  in  a  secure  position,  and 
free  my  mouth  from  the  hair  that  I  pulled  from  him  in  our 
I  ascent,  he  was  vanished  fairly  out  of  sight  in  the  thicket. 
!  As  I  had  nothing  more  to  do  above,  I  came  down  as  quickly 
i  as  I  could,  and  went  back  to  the  place  I  had  left." 

That  bears  can  behave  with  great  decency  when  thrown 
unexpectedly  in  human  society,  thereby  exhibiting  great  sa- 
gacity, is  proved  by  the  following  narrative : 

A  settler  in  Missouri  went  down  the  river  in  his  boat  in- 
tending to  shoot  elks.  When  he  came  to  the  place  where 
"he  knew  those  animals  were  to  be  found,  he  rowed  to  the 


68  BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD. 

shore,  fastened  his  boat,  and  went  up  into  the  woods,  where, 
in  a  short  time,  hearing  the  rustling  of  some  animal  among 
the  undergrowth,  he  lay  down  behind  a  fallen  oak,  where 
concealed  he  could  take  a  steady  aim.  He  was  rather  a  raw 
backwoodsman ;  and  having  never  seen  an  elk  in  his  life, 
shrunk  closely  into  his  hiding  place  as  a  large  animal,  taller 
than  a  horse,  and  with  immense  horns,  came  blustering 
through  the  bushes,  treading  down  whatever  of  bramble  or 
bush  lay  in  his  way. 

"  If  you  do  not  hurt  me,"  said  the  affrighted  hunter,  "  I 
will  not  hurt  you;"  and  as  soon  as  the  animal  had  passed — 
which  he  did  without  noticing  him — he  arose  from  his  hiding- 
place  and  went  back  to  his  boat.  "  If  there  is  no  elk  here, 
there  is  likely  a  bear  or  two  to  be  had,"  said  he  to  himself, 
by  way  of  comfort.  He  had  heard  many  marvellous  tales 
of  bears — with  which  at  that  time  the  country  abounded — 
and  now  he  was  not  particularly  well  pleased  to  remember, 
as  the  more  he  thought  of  them  the  more  cowardly  he  be- 
came. They  could  run  about,  it  was  said,  with  half  a  dozen 
bullets  in  their  bodies ;  and  kill  dogs  by  the  dozen,  as  well 
as  hug  men  to  death,  and  heaven  knows  what  beside.  But 
in  the  worst  case  he  had  his  boat,  which  in  a  battle  would 
give  him  a  great  advantage,  or  at  any  rate  afford  him  a  safe 
means  of  retreat. 

He  had  just  taken  his  seat,  and  was  about  to  put  off,  when 
all  at  once  he  heard  a  plunge,  and  a  sound  of  something 
splashing  in  the  water.  He  rowed  quickly  round  the  point 
of  an  island,  and  there  saw  a  large  bear  swimming  over  to 


BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD.  69 

the  opposite  bank.  As  he  could  advance  touch  faster  in  his 
boat,  he  shot  straight  before  the  animal  in  order  to  cut  off 
his  course ;  and  succeeding  in  this  movement,  forced  him  to 
alter  his  direction,  which  he  very  quietly  did,  still  endeavor- 
ing, however,  to  reach  the  opposite  shore  by  swimming 
round  the  interposing  boat.  Our  settler  now  placed  himself 
once  more  in  the  animal's  way;  but  Bruin  noticed  the  inter- 
ruption no  farther  than  by  getting  out  of  the  way  and  con- 
tinuing his  course  to  the  other  side. 

"  He  is  a  cowardly  fellow,  this  big  bear,"  said  the  back- 
woodsman to  himself ;  and  now  grown  more  courageous,  he 
rowed  his  boat  for  the  third  time  against  his  shaggy  enemy, 
so  that  he  got  him  in  a  fair  range  to  be  brought  down  with 
one  shot.  But  as  in  turning  for  this  purpose,  he  brought 
the  prow  quite  close  to  the  bear,  he  seized  hold  of  it  with 
his  fore  paws,  and,  to  the  great  consternation  of  the  rower, 
very  quietly  climbed  in.  There  he  sat  and  looked  in  the 
man's  face  as  if  it  was  quite  a  matter  of  course  that,  since 
he  was  prevented  from  swimming,  he  should  sail. 

The  poor  hunter  was  now  altogether  dismayed — he  was 
afraid  to  move ;  he  dared  not  venture  to  take  up  his  gun,  for 
the  instant  he  ceased  rowing,  the  bear  growled  angrily  and 
showed  his  teeth.  Had  the  poor  fellow  only  known  a  little 
more  about  killing  bears  before  he  went  to  hunt  them — that 
one  well  directed  stroke  of  a  tough  oak  stick  over  the  head 
was  a  more  effective  way  of  conquering  than  by  many 
bullets,  he  might  easily  have  killed  him  with  a  blow  from 
his  oar.  But,  in  the  meantime,  the  self-constituted  passen- 


70  BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD. 

ger  gazed  upon  the  boatsman  with  very  apparent  satisfac- 
tion as  long  as  he  continued  to  row,  and  so  there  they  sat, 
the  man  and  the  bear,  opposite  and  staring  at  each  other. 
At  last  the  hunter  having  overcome  his  first  fright,  began 
slowly  to  row  back  to  the  shore  he  had  left ;  but  this  did  not 
serve  the  bear's  purpose  as  it  seemed,  for  he  moved  closer 
to  him,  and  showed  his  teeth  in  such  a  manner  as  to  say 
he  did  not  like  the  new  direction  at  all.  But  as  soon  as  he 
turned  the  boat,  and  resumed  his  course  to  the  opposite 
bank,  Bruin  took  his  old  place,  and  with  the  same  grave 
and  contented  mein  sat  as  before  at  the  prow,  and  so  our 
poor  hunter  was  obliged  to  steer  according  to  the  pleasure 
of  his  shaggy  passenger.  As  soon  as  the  skiff  touched  the 
shore,  the  animal  rose  up  and  stepped  leisurely  on  the 
beach — turned  round  once  more  and  looked  in  the  man's 
face,  then  with  a  low  growling  sound  peculiar  to  themselves, 
he  trotted  off  quietly  towards  the  thicket — and  the  hunter, 
believing  he  had  seen  enough  of  him,  let  him  proceed  with- 
out molestation  from  a  bullet. 

In  the  same  neighborhood,  too,  there  lived  a  farmer's 
boy,  who,  having  found  a  young  bear  in  the  forest,  brought 
him  into  the  village,  where  he  soon  became  the  playfellow 
of  the  children,  and  at  last  went  with  them  to  school.  Per- 
fectly harmless  and  •  playful,  he  became  a  great  favorite, 
and  great  was  their  regret  when,  after  living  a  long  time  in 
this  harmony  with  them,  he  took  it  into  his  head  one  day  to 
go  back  to  the  woods,  and  returned  to  the  village  no  more. 
But  like  all  other  absent  friends,  he  was  soon  forgotten. 


BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD.  71 

Things  changed  in  this  village,  as  they  do  every  where  else ; 
the  schoolmaster  died,  and  his  widow  kept  the  school,  and 
wielded  the  birch  wand  in  his  stead. 

On  one  cold  winter's  day — long  after  young  Bruin  was 
forgotten — when  much  snow  had  fallen,  and  the  frost  was 
intense — the  schoolmistress,  with  rod  in  hand,  and  spectacles 
on  her  nose,  sat  in  the  midst  of  her  noisy  charge,  endeav- 
oring to  drum  the  rudiments  into  some  of  the  dullards. 
One  of  the  boys,  coming  in  late,  had  left  the  door  of  the 
schoolroom  unlatched,  when,  greatly  to  the  terror  of  both 
teacher  and  scholars,  a  huge  bear  walked  in  with  all  the 
confidence  of  an  old  acquaintance,  and  made  his  way  up  to 
the  fire.  The  children  crowded  around  their  teacher,  who 
had  retreated  to  the  farthest  corner  of  the  room,  and 
screamed  with  all  their  might,  for  they  were  certain  that  the 
bear  could  do  nothing  else  than  devour  the  whole  of  them 
at  one  meal.  But  the  bear,  undisturbed  by  the  panic  his 
coming  had  caused,  looked  round  quite  complacently  whilst 
he  warmed  himself  at  the  fire,  and  seemed  to  feel  that  he 
was  in  very  comfortable  quarters.  Meanwhile,  the  scream- 
ing went  on  without  interruption,  but  the  outcry  brought  no 
help,  for  the  house  was  too  distant  from  any  other  for  it  to 
be  heard,  and  so  the  bear  was  left  to  amuse  himself  or 
frighten  them  without  interruption.  After  he  «had  sat 
awhile  and  warmed  himself,  he  raised  up  on  his  hind  legs, 
and  took  down  all  the  hats  and  satchels  that  hung  in  a  row 
on  the  wall,  one  after  another.  He  had  not  lost  his 
memory  during  his  long  absence — he  knew  where  the  chil- 


72  BAD  NEIGHBORHOOD. 

dren  were  used  to  keep  their  dinners.  After  he  had 
devoured  the  bread,  cold  meat,  apples,  and  other  articles 
of  food  that  he  found  in  the  bags  and  baskets,  he  walked 
up  to  the  closet  of  the  schoolmistress,  remembering,  doubt- 
less, that  eatables  were  also  kept  there,  but  finding  it  locked, 
he  walked  out  of  the  door  as  quietly  as  he  had  entered. 
The  children  now  ran  out  and  gave  the  alarm — the  bear  was 
followed  and  shot,  but  greatly  to  the  regret  of  the  villagers 
when,  in  the  victim,  they  recognized  their  old  friend  and 
former  playfellow. 


THE  buffalo,  or  bison,  sometimes  designated  as  the  wild 
ox,  with  his  large  black  head,  his  thick  horns  and  threaten- 
ing eyes,  presents  a  perfect  picture  of  savage  wildness  and 
ferocity.  The  American  bison  differs  from  the  Asiatic  and 
African  buffalo,  by  having  longer  and  more  shaggy  hair  on 
his  head  and  neck,  and  a  large  hump  between  his  shoulders, 
and  are  found  in  herds  of  many  thousands  in  the  wild 
prairies  of  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  yet  in  the  progress  of 
civilization,  from  day  to  day,  becoming  scarcer.  In  early 
times  they  ranged  in  numberless  herds  over  the  whole 
vast  tract  of  country  now  known  as  the  United  States,  with 
the  exception  only  of  the  eastern  coast,  or  the  swampy 
region  lying  round  the  shore  of  the  Mexican  Gulf;  in  the 
present  day  it  is  a  rare  thing  to  see  a  single  one  east  of  the 


The  wool  of  the  Buffalo  is  fine,  and  is  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  hats  and  other  articles.  His  color  is  generally 
dark  brown,  but  some  few  are  found,  although  very  seldom, 
spotted  with  white.  His  body  is  more  strongly  built  than 
that  of  the  European  ox ;  his  fore  quarters  are  fashioned  in 
a  rude  unwieldy  form,  but  the  rump  and  hind  legs  are  neat 
and  well  proportioned.  The  great  hump  between  the 

(73) 


74  THE    BUFFALO. 

shoulders,  with  the  addition  of  the  rough  tangled  mane,  the 
bushy  beard,  and  thick  crooked  horns  that  turn  backwards, 
give  him  an  appearance  well  calculated  to  strike  terror  into 
a  beholder.  They  have  a  strong  odor  of  musk,  which  they 
send  out  profusely  when  pursued,  and  make  a  loud  crackling 
noise  with  their  feet  in  walking.  Their  organs  of  smelling 
is  so  extremely  acute,  that  they  can  discover  the  approach 
of  hunters  at  a  distance  of  three  miles  from  the  windward 
side,  and  then  they  will  snuff  the  air  with  evident  tokens  of 
displeasure,  and  scamper  off  with  great  rapidity. 

The  hunters,  aware  of  this,  are  always  careful  to  approach 
them  on  the  other  side,  and  are  thus  often  able  to  come 
quite  close  to  them  unperceived ;  and  the  animals  themselves 
sometimes  advance,  seemingly  without  fear  until  within  a  very 
short  distance  of  their  pursuers.  This  latter  fact  has  been 
attributed  to  their  having  feeble  sight,  and  which  is  by  no 
means  improved  by  the  thick  hair  hanging  over  their  eyes. 
Although  herds  of  elks  and  buffaloes  are  often  found  upon 
the  same  prairie,  they  never  feed  together,  rather  showing 
a  kind  of  abhorrence  to  each  other. 

The  buffalo  troop  is  almost  always  followed  by  a  pack  of 
hungry  wolves,  who  do  not,  however,  venture  to  attack  them, 
but  only  keep  in  the  rear,  in  hopes  of  feasting  upon  the 
spoils  left  by  the  hunters  when  some  of  the  unlucky  animals 
shall  have  fallen  by  their  rifles. 

It  is  almost  impossible  to  kill  a  bison  by  a  shot  in  the 
head  or  breast.  The  first  is  so  well  protected  by  the  coarse 
thickly  tangled  hair,  that  the  force  of  the  bullet  is  spent 


THE  BUFFALO.  75 

before  it  can  reach  the  skull,  and  the  latter  in  its  strong 
panoply  of  bones  and  muscles  bids  defiance  to  all  the  bullets 
ever  moulded.  The  experienced  backwoodsman,  therefore, 
takes  some  pains  to  keep  at  the  side  of  his  victim,  and  kills 
him  by  sending  a  shot  from  his  gun  or  arrow  from  his  bow, 
just  behind  the  shoulder  blade. 

These  animals  are  found  in  such  great  numbers  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  that  from  these  heights,  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach,  the  herds  can  be  seen  like  dark  spots  on  the 
landscape.  They  march  with  great  regularity,  always  ob- 
serving the  same  order — the  males  in  front,  and  the  cows 
and  calves  bringing  up  the  rear. 

It  is  sometimes  very  dangerous  to  meet  such  a  troop  on 
its  march ;  for  if  they  are  frightened  or  made  angry,  they 
will  throw  themselves  into  a  line  and  rush  upon  the  advanc- 
ing party,  overturning  horses,  wagons,  and  trampling  every 
thing  that  comes  in  their  way  under  their  feet,  or  tossing  it 
on  their  horns.  This  may  seem  incredible,  but  many  of  the 
male  buffaloes  weigh  from  twenty  to  thirty  hundred  weight. 
When  game  is  abundant,  and  the  hunters  have  bad  a  suc- 
cessful hunting  time  of  these  animals,  they  cut  out  only  the 
choicest  parts,  the  rib  pieces,  the  tongue,  the  hump,  not  for- 
getting the  marrow  bone  for  their  own  use,  and  leave  all 
the  rest  of  the  spoil  for  the  wolves.  Yet  it  is  not  seldom 
that  the  enraged  and  hunted  animal  turns  on  his  oppressor, 
and  if  he  be  within  reach  of  his  horns,  his  destruction  is 
certain. 

According  to  the  statements  of  travellers  who  are  worthy 


76  THE  BUFFALO. 

to  be  believed,  no  words  can  give  an  idea  of  the  immense 
herds  in  which  the  buffaloes  wander  through  an  unsettled 
country.  With  that  wonderful  instinct  that  Nature  has 
provided  in  all  animals,  those  marching  troops  always  follow 
the  same  paths  trodden  by  former  races  centuries  ago ; 
showing,  by  continuing  to  climb  the  steep  and  rugged  hills, 
without  deviation  from  one  road,  and  by  always  crossing 
rivers  at  but  one,  and  that  the  most  fordable  place,  their 
knowledge  of  security  and  sense  of  danger.  They  observe 
great  regularity  whilst  moving  over  these  mountain  passes, 
and  thus  being  in  so  large  a  body  causes  no  hindrance ;  they 
must  go  on,  for  if  the  rank  were  disposed  to  alter  its  course 
it  could  not  do  so,  being  forced  onward  by  the  numbers  in 
the  rear.  Sometimes  the  number  is  so  great,  and  they  keep 
so  close  together,  that  when  crossing  a  river  they  dam  up 
the  water  with  their  bodies,  and  then  the  snorting  and  bel- 
lowing of  these  wandering  herds  is  to  be  heard  at  a  distance 
of  several  miles. 

There  are  many  tribes  of  Indians  who  live  entirely  on 
the  spoils  of  the  buffalo  chase.  They  hunt  on  horseback, 
and  kill  the  animal  either  with  a  bullet  sent  from  a  gun,  or, 
in  the  want  of  firearms,  with  an  arrow,  in  the  use  of  which 
they  are  very  expert.  On  the  approach  of  the  pursuers, 
the  affrighted  creatures,  for  the  American  bison  is  naturally 
rather  timid  than  fierce,  separate  and  disperse  in  wild  haste 
all  over  the  plain,  and  thus  the  hunter  can  easily  select  the 
best  prey,  choosing  always  the  largest  and  fattest.  If  he 
succeed  in  sending  an  arrow  to  lodge  under  the  shoulder 


THEBUFFALO.  7T 

blade,  he  does  not  trouble  himself  to  stop  to  kill  the  animal, 
but  dashes  off  in  pursuit  of  another,  which  he  manages  in 
the  same  way ;  and  thus  if  he  is  mounted  on  a  swift,  strong 
and  tractable  horse,  he  can  easily  take  seven  or  eight  buffa- 
loes in  a  few  hours. 

Far  wilder,  however,  and  more  dangerous  to  man  than 
the  American  bison,  is  the  buffalo  of  the  East  Indies ;  on 
the  face  of  no  animal  is  the  impression  of  its  fierce  and 
vicious  nature  so  clearly  stamped  as  on  his.  But  few  of  the 
beasts  of  prey  venture  to  attack  him,  except  the  tiger,  and 
he  can  only  attempt  the  conquest  when  he  is  able  to  ap- 
proach by  stealth.  Let  the  buffalo,  however,  but  see  the  lurk- 
ing tiger  as  he  creeps  from  bush  to  bush,  he  raises  his  head 
threateningly,  scratches  up  the  sand  with  his  hoofs,  and  with 
eyes  flashing  vengeance,  watches  every  movement  of  his  wily 
enemy.  Suddenly  the  latter,  with  a  powerful  leap,  alights 
on  the  back  of  the  buffalo  ;  but  he  is  at  once  shaken  off, 
and  the  huge  beast  taking  him  upon  his  horns,  tosses  him 
aloft,  each  time  he  falls  repeating  the  movement  until  his 
bones  are  not  only  all  broken,  but  his  body  literally  bored 
through.  Even  this  does  not  satisfy  him ;  for  when  he  is 
tired  of  this  sport,  or  sees  that  the  tiger  is  dead,  he  tram- 
ples him  under  his  feet  as  though  his  rage  is  never  to  be 
appeased.  But  if  the  tiger  accomplishes  the  decisive  leap 
unseen  and  successfully,  and  so  eludes  the  frightful  thrust 
from  the  horns,  he  buries  his  sharp  claws  in  the  body  of  his 
victim,  and  tears  the  flesh  from  the  neck  with  his  teeth. 
When  the  battle  has  progressed  thus  far,  the  fate  of  the 


78  THE  BUFFALO. 

buffalo  is  decided ;  no  effort  of  strength  will  enable  him  to 
free  himself  from  his  fearful  hurden.  Finding  all  struggles  to 
extricate  himself  vain,  he  calls  up  all  his  remaining  strength, 
and  throwing  himself  on  the  ground,  as  if  in  despair,  and 
still  endeavoring  to  injure  his  enemy,  he  rolls  over  and  over 
until  his  life  is  yielded  up  with  fearful  groans. 

The  strongest  and  most  savage  of  all  the  buffalo  races  are 
those  found  in  Southern  Africa,  in  the  land  of  the  Caffres. 
Their  horns  are  so  large  that  they  cover  the  whole  front  of 
the  head.  It  is  considered  less  dangerous  to  meet  a  herd 
of  these  animals  than  a  single  one,  for  in  the  latter  case  the 
animal  never  waits  until  he  is  molested,  but  rushes  directly 
upon  whatever  man  he  approaches,  whether  hunter  or 
traveller.  Sometimes  he  conceals  himself,  and  falls  upon 
his  adversary  so  unexpectedly  that  neither  bravery  nor  dex- 
terity can  effect  an  escape.  They  are  so  bold  that  even  the 
lions  are  afraid  of  them,  and  they  have  many  fierce  battles 
with  each  other.  When  one  buffalo  has  killed  another — for 
they  fight  furiously  among  themselves — he  will  stand  for 
hours  over  his  victim,  treading  on  him  with  his  hoofs,  stamp- 
ing him  with  his  feet,  like  the  elephant,  and  lick  him  with 
his  rough  tongue  until  his  skin  is  torn  off.  It  is  not  until 
weary  with  these  efforts  that  he  gives  up,  and  then  often 
goes  back  to  vent  his  wrath  anew  on  his  dead  enemy,  con- 
tinuing to  trample  on  him  until  he  has  fairly  crushed  him 
into  the  earth. 

There  was  once  a  settler  at  the  Cape  Colony,  who  went 
out  with  several  of  his  neighbors  to  hunt  buffaloes,  of  which 


THE    BUFFALO.  79 

a  large  herd  had  been  seen  grazing  on  a  piece  of  swampy 
ground,  covered  thickly  with  mimosas.  They  found  that, 
owing  to  the  softness  of  the  soil,  they  could  not  approach 
near  enough  with  their  horses — for  they  were  mounted — to 
shoot,  so  they  left  them  in  the  care  of  some  Hottentots,  and 
went  forward  on  foot.  They  believed  that  if  attacked  by 
the  herd,  it  would  be  an  easy  thing  for  them  to  fly,  for  the 
marsh  was  quite  firm  enough  to  bear  the  weight  of  a  man, 
but  not  that  of  a  horse,  and  much  less  of  a  buffalo. 

They  advanced  accordingly,  and  concealed  by  the  bushes, 
succeeded  in  bringing  down  three  of  the  finest  animals  in 
the  drove.  They  might  have  been  contented  with  this,  but 
having  wounded  a  large  ox,  the  leader  of  the  herd,  so 
severely  that  he  sank  upon  his  knees,  as  if  disabled,  and 
began  to  roar  loudly,  they  thought  there  could  be  no  dan- 
ger of  his  rising,  for  his  case  was  certainly  settled.  One 
of  the  hunters  sallied  forth  from  the  covert,  and  loading  his 
musket  anew,  determined  to  finish  the  bellowing  animal  with 
one  well-aimed  bullet.  But  no  sooner  had  the  enraged  beast 
seen  the  man  approach,  than  he  started  up  and  rushed 
towards  him. 

There  was  now  nothing  left  for  the  poor  fellow  but  to  fly, 
and  throwing  his  gun  from  him,  he  ran  with  all  possible 
Bpeed  towards  the  swamp,  where,  could  he  have  reached  it, 
he  would  have  been  safe  ;  but  finding  the  buffalo  gain  rapidly 
upon  him,  he  was  obliged  to  alter  his  course.  He  there- 
fore turned  aside  into  the  thicket,  and  having  reached  the 
first  mimosa  began  to  climb  it.  But  his  enraged  enemy  was  too 


80  THEBTTFFALO. 

quick  for  him.  With  a  fearful  roar,  such  as  our  poor  set- 
tler had  never  heard  in  his  life,  the  terrible  beast  came  up, 
and  taking  him  on  his  horns  tossed  him  high  in  the  air. 
He  fell  not,  however,  to  the  ground,  but  lodging  in  among 
the  forked  limbs  of  the  tree,  his  savage  antagonist  was 
partly  disappointed  of  his  revenge.  He  walked  round  and 
round  the  mimosa,  and  looking  up  into  the  branches  where 
the  unfortunate  man  was  lying,  still  vented  his  rage  in  loud 
bellowings ;  until  at  last  exhausted  by  his  efforts  and  the 
loss  of  blood  from  his  wounds,  he  once  more  fell  upon  the 
ground.  The  party,  who  had  seen  the  whole  from  the 
thicket  where  they  were  concealed,  now  sent  forth  a  shower 
of  balls  that  ended  him  at  once ;  but  when  they  came  to 
look  after  their  comrade,  they  found  him  lying  among  the 
branches  quite  dead. 

There  is  another  account  of  this  animal's  fierceness  in 
giving  battle,  related  by  a  Hollander,  who  was  journeying 
with  a  caravan  into  Caffre  land.  They  were  riding  along 
very  leisurely  through  the  forest,  when  in  an  open  space  at 
a  short  distance  he  saw  a  buffalo  lying  down.  Having 
heard  a  great  deal  of  the  ferocity  of  these  animals,  he  was 
about  to  call  a  halt,  hoping  their  approach  had  not  been  no- 
ticed, but  before  he  could  utter  the  command  the  savage  beast 
was  up  and  rushing  towards  him.  He  was  foremost  of 
the  party,  and  leaping  from  his  horse  he  fled  to  a  tree 
and  concealed  himself  behind  it.  He  barely  saved  himself, 
for  the  animal,  roaring  furiously,  dashed  up  to  the  horse  he 
had  left,  and  with  his  sharp  horns  pierced  him  through  in 


THE    BUFFALO.  81 

an  instant.  Great  was  the  consternation ;  but  there  was 
little  time  allowed  to  think.  Attacking  the  next  rider,  he 
dispatched  his  horse  as  rapidly  as  he  had  done  that  of  the 
first,  and  so  a  third,  both  falling  dead  at  one  thrust,  the 
back  of  one  having  been  pierced  quite  through,  the  saddle 
being  no  protection.  The  affrighted  horsemen  fled  to  the 
trees,  and  happily  succeeded  in  climbing  beyond  the  enemy's 
reach. 

He  next  assailed  the  remainder  of  the  party,  who  were  a 
little  way  behind,  but  they  had  witnessed  the  first  onset, 
and  were  by  this  time  prepared  for  him.  His  attack  was 
met  by  a  dozen  musket  balls,  which  told  well,  and  brought 
him  to  the  earth  sorely  wounded,  but  not  yet  conquered ; 
he  rallied  his  remaining  strength,  and  rising  he  once  more 
sought  to  press  against  his  enemies.  But  the  effort  was  in 
vain — he  was  met  by  more  bullets,  and  was  fairly  pierced 
through  and  through  before  he  yielded  up  the  contest  and 
his  life  together. 
6 


1  tutting   t ji j    Eijitinr B  rn  s. 

ALTHOUGH  the  rhinoceros  is  very  large  in  size,  possessing 
great  muscular  strength,  and  with  a  skin  nearly  an  inch 
thick,  is  almost  invulnerable  to  any  attack  from  either 
men  or  animals,  is  yet  so  timid  and  peaceful  an  animal  that 
rather  than  assail  he  goes  willingly  out  of  the  way  of  his 
enemies ;  yet  when  his  wrath  is  once  aroused  he  is  a  fearful 
antagonist,  for  the  horn  growing  from  his  snout  is  as  mur- 
derous a  weapon  as  a  sword.  His  voice  is  like  the  grunting 
of  a  hog ;  but  when  angry  he  utters  a  dull  roar  like  that  of 
the  lion.  He  chooses  the  swampy  forest  for  his  dwelling 
place,  and  feeds  upon  the  tender  twigs  and  green  leaves  ; 
and,  like  the  buffalo,  his  sight  is  very  weak,  but  his  sense 
of  smelling  is  also  so  acute,  that  the  hunters  never  dare 
approach  him  from  the  windward  side. 

An  Englishman  who  once  assisted  at  a  rhinoceros  hunt, 
describes  it  in  the  following  manner  : — 

"  We  set  out  early  one  morning,  and  having  spread  out 
our  forces  so  as  to  encircle  the  large  tract  of  land  prepared 
for  the  purpose,  found  that  within  that  circumscribed  limit 
we  had  driven  three  rhinoceros  and  eight  buffalos.  The 
place  was  first  enclosed  by  a  hedge,  inside  of  which  ran  a 
ditch  of  perhaps  four  feet  in  depth ;  for  it  is  well  known 

(82) 


HUNTING   THE    RHINOCEROS.  83 

that,  whilst  their  great  strength  enables  them  to  break 
through  any  enclosure  with  great  ease,  they  can  be  restrained 
by  a  very  small  ditch.  Little  huts  made  of  bamboo  twigs 
were  placed  at  certain  distances  along  the  hedge,  in  which 
the  hunters  were  to  be  concealed,  and  thus  fire  under  covert. 
The  Javanese  hunters  were  seated  on  the  high  trees  within 
the  circle,  prepared  with  fireworks,  which  they  were  to  throw 
down  in  order  to  drive  the  imprisoned  animals  from  the 
thicket  to  the  open  space. 

Each  one  of  our  party  took  his  post,  but  scarcely  had  we 
done  so,  ere  a  rhinoceros  broke  forth  from  his  hiding-place 
in  the  thick  bushes,  and  with  that  peculiar  low  roar  by  which 
those  animals  express  their  anger,  rushed  towards  the  frail 
bamboo  hut  in  which  I  was  sheltered.  The  shower  of  bullets 
with  which  our  guns  greeted  him,  many  of  which  iron  mes- 
sengers lodged  in  his  neck  and  sides,  forced  him  to  retreat 
hastily,  but  meeting  another  and  smaller  rhinoceros  coming 
forward  in  this  enclosed  battle-field,  in  his  rage  he  fell  upon 
him,  and  forthwith  a  bloody  battle  ensued  between  those 
I  colossal  combatants.  The  lesser  animal  having  received  a 
severe  wound  in  the  head  from  his  powerful  antagonist,  fled 
towards  the  hut  where  we  were  posted ;  we  gaVe  him  as 
warm  a  reception  as  we  had  before  done  to  his  conqueror, 
but  this  time  our  shots  were  better  directed — we  killed  him 
at  the  first  volley. 

Whilst  we  were  thus  employed,  the  rest  of  the  party  were 
not  idle;  but  firing  from  the  other  huts,  they  had  wounded 
a  third,  and  now,  maddened  with  pain,  the  poor  animal  was 


84  HUNTING  THE  RHINOCEROS. 

using  every  effort  of  his  great  strength  to  break  through  the 
enclosure.  His  success  would  have  been  fatal  to  us,  and  we 
had  now  to  bring  all  our  force  to  bear,  in  order  to  dispatch 
him  as  quickly  as  possible.  We  therefore  fired  a  small 
cannon  we  had  with  us,  loaded  with  cannister  shot,  upon 
him ;  this  salute  induced  him  to  change  his  course — the  poor 
beast  reeled  backwards  for  a  moment,  but  almost  instantly 
recovering,  he  ran  along  the  side  of  the  enclosure  for  a  con- 
siderable distance,  venting  his  rage  in  frightful  roarings, 
until  pierced  by  thirty  bullets,  and  weakened  by  loss  of 
blood,  he  fell  to  the  earth  dead. 

In  the  meantime,  the  first  one  we  had  wounded  again 
came  forward,  raging  through  the  middle  of  the  enclosed 
space.  A  wild  hog  coming  in  the  way  of  his  career,  was 
thrown  up  by  that  fearful  horn  with  such  force  into  the  air, 
that  he  was  dead  as  soon  as  he  reached  the  ground.  Next 
he  rushed  upon  an  unlucky  buffalo,  and  in  an  instant  had 
ripped  up  his  body,  and  at  last  coming  upon  the  rhinoceros 
which,  killed  by  our  firing,  was  lying  quite  near  the  hedge 
that  bounded  the  enclosure,  he  fell  upon  him  with  as  much 
violence  as  he  would  have  exercised  upon  a  living  antago- 
nist. It  was  fortunate  for  us  that  he  did  so,  since  it  gave 
us  time  to  fire  upon  himself.  Several  well  directed  shots 
were  lodged  in  his  body ;  nevertheless,  though  sadly 
wounded,  he  ran  round  the  battle-field  once  more,  treading 
down  the  tall  bushes  as  if  they  had  been  straw,  but  at 
length  his  immense  strength  being  exhausted,  he  fell  dead 
on  the  ground. 


HUNTING  THE  RHINOCEROS.  85 

Still  more  fierce  and  warlike  than  this  species,  which  is 
called  by  some  the  White  Rhinoceros,  is  the  Black,  found 
in  the  middle  and  southern  parts  of  Africa.  Four  Dutch 
peasants  from  Cape  Colony,  went  out  one  day  to  hunt  a 
Springbok ;  they  soon  came  upon  the  track  of  this  animal, 
which  they  followed,  when  all  at  once  they  discovered  the 
footmarks  of  a  rhinoceros,  and  soon  after  saw  the  huge 
beast  lying  near  them  in  the  thicket  through  which  they 
were  about  to  pass.  One  of  the  men,  named  Henry,  crept 
behind  a  cluster  of  high  bushes,  where,  entirely  concealed 
from  the  animal,  he  fired,  and  wounded  him  badly  in  the 
fore  foot.  He  rose  in  great  fury,  and  prepared  for  an 
onset,  and  as  all  four  of  the  hunters  were  flying  as  best  they 
could  for  safety,  he  took  after  the  one  nearest  to  him,  who 
would  have  certainly  fallen  a  victim  to  his  rage,  but  just  as 
the  beast  was  within  touching  distance,  and  began  to  turn 
up  the  earth  with  his  horn,  as  these  creatures  always  do, 
preparatory  to  the  fatal  thrust,  with  great  presence  of  mind 
the  man  sprung  quickly  to  one  side. 

The  blow  aimed  by  the  rhinoceros  failed ;  in  such  full 
speed  was  he  dashing  forward,  that  he  was  not  at  once  able 
to  alter  his  course — and  before  he  did  so,  all  four  of  the 
huntsmen  had  escaped  him  by  climbing  up  into  trees.  The 
huge  enemy,  however,  did  not  retreat,  but  although  limping 
in  consequence  of  the  wound  given  by  Henry,  went  round 
and  round,  smelling  at  various  spots  in  order  to  find  his 
enemy,  but  in  vain.  At  last,  one  of  the  men,  whose  only 
weapon  was  a  javelin,  which  in  this  warfare  was  of  no  use, 
said  to  his  fellows : 


86  HUNTING  THE  RHINOCEROS. 

"  I  am  tired  of  waiting  here — why  do  we  waste  time  by 
staying,  and  why  don't  you  shoot?" 

"  If  you  are  so  fond  of  shooting,"  answered  Henry, 
"shoot,  yourself;  here  is  my  powder-horn  and  shot-pouch, 
and  there  under  that  tree  is  my  gun !" 

The  man  descended  at  once  from  his  place  of  safety, 
loaded  the  gun,  and  approaching  the  rhinoceros,  sent  a 
charge  of  bullets  into  his  lower  jaw.  He  was  stunned  by 
the  sudden  blow,  and  fell  to  the  earth,  where  he  lay  for 
some  time  as  if  dead.  All  believed  him  to  be  really  so,  and 
descending  from  their  several  trees,  approached  him  fear- 
lessly, but  the  man  who  had  given  him  the  last  wound,  was 
not  a  little  proud  of  the  exploit,  and  feeling  quite  like  a 
hero,  began  to  expatiate  on  the  peculiar  manner  of  hunting 
the  rhinoceros,  and  was  eloquent  in  his  directions  to  his 
comrades  how  they  should  proceed.  All  at  once  the  seem- 
ingly dead  animal  began  to  recover,  and  striking  out 
furiously  with  his  hind  feet,  showed  them  that  the  victory 
was  not  yet  won.  Henry  called  aloud  to  his  fellows : 

"  Fly,  boys — fly  for  your  lives ;  whoever  lingers  is  a  dead 
man  !"  and  dashing  forward  with  all  the  speed  he  was  capa- 
ble of,  showed  by  his  example  that  in  this  case  he  held 
"discretion  to  be  the  better  part  of  valor." 

A  few  moments  sufficed  to  restore  the  rhinoceros  to  his 
feet  and  (if  we  dare  say  so)  to  recollection.  He  seemed  to 
have  no  wish  to  molest  the  other  huntsmen,  but  seeking  out 
the  one  who  had  wounded  him,  and  snorting  with  rage,  he 
set  after  him  with  all  the  fury  of  desperation. 


HUNTING   THE  RHINOCEROS.  87 

The  poor  man,  although  appalled  by  the  roaring  enemy, 
did  not  yet  lose  all  presence  of  mind.  Finding  that  he 
could  not  outmatch  him  by  swiftness,  he  had  recourse  to  the 
same  stratagem  we  have  mentioned  as  being  used  by  one  of 
his  comrades  during  their  first  flight.  He  made  a  sudden 
halt,  then  sprung  to  one  side  in  expectation  that  the  angry 
animal  would  shoot  past  him  as  on  the  former  occasion. 
But  the  crafty  beast  was  not  to  be  fooled  a  second  time — he 
took  him  upon  his  powerful  horn,  and  first  ripping  up  his  leg 
as  with  an  axe,  he  tossed  him  high  into  the  air.  The  un- 
happy being  fell  directly  in  front  of  his  still  unsatisfied  foe, 
who  in  a  moment  was  again  upon  him,  and  thrusting  his 
horn  into  his  breast,  tore  it  open  even  to  his  throat,  and 
tossing  him  again,  seemed  to  wait  patiently  until  he  reached 
the  ground.  This  time  he  fell  more  heavily,  for  it  was  a 
dead  body  that  touched  the  earth;  and  the  rhinoceros,  as 
though  he  knew  his  offender  had  ceased  to  exist,  now  gave 
up  all  effort  to  wound  him  further,  but  running  up  to  him, 
trampled  the  body  under  his  feet  until  it  was  literally  crushed 
to  atoms.  His  vengeance  at  last  satisfied,  he  limped  slowly 
back  to  the  thicket — the  blood  from  his  wounded  jaw  mark- 
ing every  step  of  the  way.  Henry  and  his  friends,  anxious 
to  avenge  their  lost  comrade,  now  crept  cautiously  forward 
and  prepared  to  fire.  Their  movements,  however,  were  not 
unnoticed  by  the  still  angry  beast ;  he  started  up  from  the 
spot  where  he  had  laid  down  in  the  thicket  and  rushed  to- 
wards the  party.  Another  life  would  most  probably  have 
been  sacrificed  had  not  an  unfortunate  dog  come  in  his  way. 


88  HUNTING  THE  RHINOCEROS. 

He  wreaked  his  re-kindled  rage  on  this  new  victim ;  but 
with  this  effort  his  ability  to  effect  further  mischief  was  ended. 
The  bones  of  the  foot,  which  had  been  wounded  by  Henry  in 
the  beginning  of  the  contest,  now  gave  way,  and  weakened 
by  the  loss  of  blood,  he  fell  down  heavily,  and  so  became 
an  easy  prey  to  the  hunters,  who  finished  him  with  their 
bullets. 

Although  the  great  strength  of  the  rhinoceros  makes  him 
a  formidable  enemy,  yet  his  gigantic  force  is  often  overcome 
by  the  most  cowardly  of  all  beasts  of  prey,  namely,  the 
hyena.  On  account  of  his  unwieldy  size,  he  cannot  turn 
round  without  considerable  effort,  and  this  circumstance  is 
taken  advantage  of  by  this  inferior  antagonist,  who  waits 
with  patience  the  proper  moment  to  reach  his  aim.  He 
creeps  behind  him,  and  inserting  his  sharp  teeth  into  his 
flanks,  bites  and  tears  until  muscle  and  sinew  are  torn  away, 
and  the  rhinoceros  is  thus  obliged  to  yield.  Lying  down 
he  gives  up  to  his  cowardly  foe,  who  literally  feeds  upon  the 
living  body  until  he  has  eaten  his  way  to  some  vital  part  ere 
death  releases  the  victim. 


THE  hippopotamus  is,  except  the  elephant,  the  largest 
animal  that  inhabits  the  land,  being  often  found  seven  feet 
in  heighth,  seventeen  in  length,  and  from  thirty  to  forty 
hundred  pounds  in  weight.  The  body  is  plump  and  covered 
with  such  a  thick  skin  that  a  bullet  can  scarcely  penetrate 
it.  The  large  head,  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  the 
body,  ends  in  a  broad  protruding  snout.  The  jaws,  uncom- 
monly large,  are  provided  with  two  rows  of  large  and 
frightful-looking  teeth.  The  legs  are  so  short  that  the  belly 
almost  touches  the  earth ;  and  the  eyes  and  ears  are  dispro- 
portionately small. 

The  river  horse  is  found  in  all  the  large  rivers  in  middle 
and  South  Africa — preferring,  although  called  a  land  ani- 
mal, to  keep  mostly  in  the  water,  since  he  swims  with  great 
swiftness,  and  diving  below  the  surface,  it  is  said  he  travels 
for  a  long  distance  on  the  bottom  of  the  stream.  He  feeds 
principally  on  roots  and  aquatic  plants ;  but  if  he  can  reach 
a  rice  field  or  plantation  of  sugar  canes,  his  voraciousness 
is  satisfied  only  at  the  expense  of  great  devastation.  His 
voice  is  variable ;  sometimes  he  neighs  like  a  horse,  the  next 
moment  roars  like  a  bull,  and  then  changes  to  the  grunting 
of  a  hog. 

(89) 


90  THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS. 

Nature  has  made  him  timid  and  fearful,  but  when  pro- 
voked, his  rage  is  very  fearful,  and  he  then  makes  use  of  his 
great  strength  and  frightful  teeth  as  means  of  aggression 
or  defence.  When  boats  are  sailing  in  those  rivers,  among 
whose  reeds  and  canes  he  had  made  his  dwelling,  he  regu- 
larly comes  forth  from  his  hiding  place,  splashing,  snorting, 
and  diving,  harmlessly  as  though  at  play,  around  the  craft. 
Should  the  voyagers  not  like  this  near  vicinity  and  fire  upon 
him,  they  find  he  is  not  to  be  frightened  by  a  shot,  but 
rather  that  others  are  attracted  by  it.  If  provoked  to  ani- 
mosity by  those  in  the  boat,  he  seizes  the  latter  in  his  tusks, 
and  either  pierces  it  full  of  holes  or  drags  it  under  the  water. 
Neither  on  land  is  he  less  vindictive,  but  follows  his  enemy 
with  great  swiftness  and  fury. 

As  the  hippopotamus  is  a  great  pest  to  many  districts  in 
Africa,  the  natives  seek  by  a  variety  of  ways  to  release 
themselves  from  this  troublesome  neighbor.  One  of  the 
least  dangerous  methods  is  this :  on  the  way  leading  from 
the  river  to  the  rice  fields,  they  dig  deep  pits,  wherein  they 
place  strong  stakes,  the  sharp  points  of  which  have  been 
hardened  in  the  fire,  and  falling  into  these  holes,  while  pur- 
suing their  depredatory  rambles,  they  are  in  some  sort  em- 
paled. The  negroes  also  make  a  kind  of  palisading  of  similar 
stakes  on  the  bank  of  the  river  in  places  where  they  know 
these  animals  are  to  be  found ;  they  next  assemble  in  the 
woods,  and  with  loud  outcries  frighten  them  so  as  to  put 
them  to  flight.  The  alarmed  beasts  turn  naturally  to  the 
water,  and  dashing  into  it,  they  rush  with  full  force  against 


THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS.  91 

those  concealed  stakes,  the  pointed  ends  of  which  penetrat- 
ing the  tough  skin,  they  are  killed  at  once. 

Other  tribes  make  a  pastime  of  hunting  them,  and  attack 
them  with  lances.  They  conceal  themselves  at  the  end  of 
a  thicket,  and  crouching  down  so  as  to  be  altogether  invisi- 
ble, they  cut  the  sinews  of  their  feet,  being  thevmost  vulner- 
able part,  as  they  pass  along,  and  then  as  they  lay  on  the 
ground  venting  their  impotent  rage,  they  are  easily  dis- 
patched with  lances.  But  the  most  common  manner  of 
hunting  the  river  horse  is  the  following  : 

One  of  the  hunters  is  provided  with  a  lance  which  is  made 
out  of  a  harpoon  with  a  wooden  shaft.  A  long  rope  is  fas- 
tened to  the  iron,  on  the  other  end  of  which  is  fastened  a  block 
of  wood.  When  the  hunter  has  succeeded  in  approaching 
within  seven  or  eight  steps  of  the  beast  he  throws  his  lance 
with  such  force  that  the  harpoon  penetrates  through  the 
skin  into  the  flesh.  The  poor  animal  thus  wounded,  at  once 
seeks  to  bury  himself  under  the  water ;  the  lance  breaks 
but  the  rope  remains  fastened  to  the  harpoon,  and  the  block 
swimming  on  the  surface,  shows  the  spot  where  the  enemy 
has  retreated.  The  other  hunters  now  come  up,  and  as 
soon  as  he  shows  himself  on  the  top  of  the  water,  where  he 
is  obliged  to  come  for  breath,  thrust  their  sharp  lances 
through  his  head  ;  or  if  near  enough,  beat  with  heavy  blows 
on  his  skull.  This  manner  of  hunting  is  fraught  with  great 
danger,  for  it  is  not  seldom  that  the  hippopotamus  succeeds 
in  fastening  his  teeth  in  his  enemy,  crushing  him  to  pieces 
in  his  powerful  jaws. 


92  THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS. 

As  a  company  of  English  travellers  were  once  traversing 
the  country  upwards  from  the  cape,  in  sailing  up  one  of  the 
rivers,  all  at  once  they  saw  themselves  surrounded  by  a 
number  of  these  animals.  At  first  they  were  not  to  be  fright- 
ened off,  and  it  was  not  until  after  repeated  firings  that  any 
of  them  retreated.  The  continued  discharge  of  many  guns 
at  last  sent  all  off  excepting  three,  who  were  determined  not 
to  be  driven  away,  but  stood  immovable,  stretching  their 
fearful  jaws  wide  open  and  showing  their  teeth.  The  Eng- 
lishmen, although  at  first  amused,  soon  lost  all  kind  of  plea- 
sure in  this  wild  hunt ;  they  by  no  means  liked  these  savage 
intimations  on  the  part  of  the  foe,  and  at  last  were  obliged 
to  make  use  of  their  weapons  in  self  defence,  for  one  of  the 
animals  swam  closely  after  the  boat  seeking  to  seize  it  with 
his  teeth  and  draw  it  under  the  water.  They  succeeded  at 
last  in  killing  him,  but  out  of  thirty  bullets  discharged  at 
the  distance  of  a  few  feet  only,  at  his  head,  only  one  had 
been  effective ;  that  one  had  passed  up  the  nostril  into  the 
brain,  all  the  others  remained  sticking  in  the  thick  skin 
without  one  having  penetrated  into  the  flesh. 


CROCODILES  are  found  in  countries  embracing  warm  lati- 
tudes all  over  the  earth  ;  everywhere  abhorred,  everywhere 
dreaded;  nevertheless  the  descriptions  of  their  dangerous 
propensities  have  been  greatly  exaggerated.  They  have  a 
long,  hard  head,  a  horribly  capacious  throat,  and  their  jaws 
are  armed  with  strong  and  sharp  teeth.  Their  backs  are 
covered  with  thick  and  hard  scales,  that  like  a  coat  of  mail 
serves  to  protect  them  from  all  missiles,  rendering  them  im- 
pervious to  bullets  which  rebound  harmlessly  after  striking 
the  horny  substance  which  Nature  has  provided  for  their 
defence.  In  order  therefore  to  destroy  them  it  is  necessary 
to  wound  them  in  the  throat  or  belly,  for  in  those  parts 
only  are  they  vulnerable.  Owing  to  the  peculiar  conforma- 
tion of  the  neck,  and  the  inflexible  nature  of  those  scales, 
every  movement,  except  those  made  in  a  straight  forward 
direction,  are  accomplished  with  difficulty.  As  it  is  almost 
impossible  for  them  to  turn  round,  so  men  when  pursued  by 
them  do  not  find  it  hard  to  escape,  as  they  have  only  to 
dash  suddenly  to  one  side,  which  the  creature  when  at  full 
speed  is  unable  to  do. 

The  whole  genus  embraces  several  species,  distinguished 
under  various  names,  namely,  the  Crocodile,  Cayman,  or 

(93) 


94  THE    CROCODILE. 

American  Alligator,  and  the  Gavial  of  Asia.  The  first 
named  are  distinguished  from  the  caymans  by  their  larger 
size  and  teeth.  They  inhabit  the  large  rivers  in  Africa, 
and  a  few  have  been  found  in. America,  but  very  rarely. 

The  crocodile  of  the  Nile  is  the  most  famous  of  all ;  and 
independent  of  his  greater  size,  differs  from  the  rest  of  the 
species  found  in  the  same  climate  by  the  singular  regularity 
of  his  scales,  which  are  of  a  four  cornered  shape,  and  are 
invariably  found  in  the  same  number  placed  along  his  back. 
The  ancient  Egyptians  adored  them  as  divinities ;  they  erec- 
ted temples  for  their  worship,  and  nourished  them  within 
those  sanctuaries.  Herodotus  tells  us  of  having  seen  croco- 
diles in  Memphis,  with  gold  rings  and  chains  on  their  noses 
and  round  their  bodies,  taking  their  rest  on  couches  of 
purple  silk. 

The  female  crocodile  lays  her  eggs,  which  have  a  tolera- 
ble hard  shell,  in  the  sand  on  the  river  shore.  She  chooses 
a  dry  place,  where  favored  by  the  sun's  heat,  and  protected 
from  accidents  of  wind  or  weather,  they  may  be  safely  ma- 
tured ;  and  scooping  out  a  hole  about  a  foot  deep  with  her 
claws,  she  deposits  the  eggs  in  regular  layers  one  above  the 
other  within  it.  Woe  to  the  unwary  one  who  approaches 
too  near  or  interrupts  her  at  this  time.  Swift  as  an  arrow 
must  be  his  flight,  or  a  frightful  and  fatal  battle  will  ensue. 
Leaving  them  to  be  hatched  by  the  sun,  she  yet  watches 
constantly  over  them,  going  only  in  search  of  food,  and 
never  so  far  as  to  lose  sight  of  them.  When  the  young 
ones  crawl  forth,  she  then  takes  charge  of  them,  leading 


THE   CROCODILE.  95 

them  abroad  and  watching  over  them  with  the  same  care 
that  a  hen  shows  for  her  chickens.  She  guards  them  from 
danger,  is  furious  in  attacking  any  enemy  that  approaches, 
and  never  forsakes  them  until  they  are  entirely  able  to  do 
without  her  services. 

Being  very  hardy,  the  crocodiles  would  increase  to  fear- 
ful numbers  were  it  not  that  they  had  a  powerful  enemy  in 
a  weak,  gentle,  but  crafty  little  animal  called  the  ichneumon, 
or  rat  of  Pharaoh.  And  they  have  another,  the  yellow 
vulture.  Hovering  round,  and  watching  until  the  old  croco- 
dile has  retreated  into  the  sedges  or  the  margin  of  the  river, 
where  she  herself  is  waiting  for  prey,  he  pounces  down  upon 
the  scarcely  covered  eggs,  and  in  a  moment  the  half  are 
destroyed.  The  enraged  mother  is  back  in  a  moment.  Her 
frightful  teeth  and  open  jaws  have  little  terror  for  this 
.ravenous  bird;  he  beats  her  off  with  his  powerful  wings, 
and  generally  carries  away  a  goodly  portion  of  her  treasure 
as  his  lawful  spoil. 

Furious  at  the  outrage,  she  attempts  to  follow  the  robber, 
and  for  a  few  moments  is  forgetful  of  the  eggs  that  are  thus 
left  without  protection.  •  The  little  ichneumon,  hidden  under 
some  papyrus  shrubs,  in  the  meantime  has  been  watching 
the  battle ;  this  is  the  time  for  him — he  darts  forth,  tears 
up  the  eggs,  breaks  and  devours  them  with  incredible  rapidi- 
ty ;  and  when  the  poor  crocodile  has  returned  from  her 
fruitless  battle  with  the  gluttonous  bird,  to  watch  over  her 
immature  brood,  she  finds  nothing  left  of  all  her  treasure 
but  the  broken  shells  strewed  upon  the  sand.  At  this  sight 


96  THE  CROCODILE. 

she  raises  a  loud  cry  of  complaint,  and  betakes  herself  to 
another  and  more  distant  spot  on  the  shore,  where  she  can 
form  her  nest  in  greater  security. 

The  caymans  or  alligators  find  their  homes  in  America. 
Those  that  live  in  the  colder  regions  become  torpid  in  the 
winter  season,  sleeping  through  it  like  the  snakes  and  bears ; 
and  in  the  warm  latitudes  it  is  said  they  are  dormant  in  the 
dry  months.  They  creep  into  the  swamps — the  mud  of 
which  dries  over  them — and  they  are  only  distinguished  from 
it  by  the  point  of  their  noses  thrust  forth ;  in  order  to 
breathe,  they  lie  stretched  dut  in  slothful  enjoyment  of  the 
summer  sun.  When  the  negroes  of  Cayenne  discover  one 
thus  snugly  disposed  of,  they  loosen  the  half  baked  earth  all 
round  the  body  with  a  pole,  in  order  to  dislodge  it,  as  we 
have  seen  laborers  do  to  remove  wood  or  large  stones.  They 
first  of  all  free  the  hind  feet,  which  they  tie  fast  to  the  body 
with  ligatures  of  liana.  They  next  proceed  to  secure 
the  fore  feet  in  the  same  way;  then  they  dig  out  the  whole 
body,  taking  care  to  keep  at  a  sufficient  distance  to  ensure 
safety  from  the  teeth  and  tail  of  the  animal.  The  last  act 
of  the  process  is  to  kill  and  drag  him  forth  from  the  mud  in 
which  he  is  imbedded,  and  then  they  feast  upon  the  flesh — 
which  they  eat  with  great  appetite  notwithstanding  its  un- 
pleasant smell. 

The  largest  and  most  dangerous  of  the  American  alliga- 
tors are  the  crowned  cayman,  found  in  Guiana,  Brazil,  and 
Colombia,  and  the  cayman  of  the  Antilles.  Both  these 
species  grow  twenty  or  twenty  five  feet  in  length,  and  infest- 


THE  CROCODILE.  97 

ing  the  banks  of  large  rivers,  frequently  seize  upon  unwary 
swimmers.  The  rivers,  swamps,  and  savannas  of  South 
America  are  alive  with  the  smaller  kind — the  largest  of 
which  vary  from  six  to  eight  feet  in  length.. 

The  traveller,  riding  along  the  shore  of  these  rivers,  may 
see  these  caymans  hidden  under  the  water  or  in  the  rushes, 
only  made  visible  by  the  point  of  the  nose,  which  is  thrust 
straight  upward.  Thus  concealed,  they  are  ready  in  a  mo- 
ment to  dart  upon  anything  in  the  shape  of  prey  that  ap- 
proaches. Swift  as  lightning  they  seize  upon  the  unsus- 
pecting animal,  and  almost  before  it  has  time  to  know  it  has 
been  made  prisoner,  or  resist,  drags  it  into  the  water,  first 
drowning,  then  hiding  it  under  the  protruding  root  of  some 
tree,  or  else  in  the  reeds,  thus  storing  the  carcass  away  to 
feast  upon  when  it  is  decayed,  for  they  eat  fresh  meat  very 
unwillingly,  and  only  when  compelled  by  hunger.  Others 
lie  stretched  out  on  the  sand,  sleeping  or  basking  in  the 
sun's  warm  rays,  but  all  vanish  when  man  approaches.  In 
the  evening  and  advanced  twilight,  they  call  each  other  to- 
gether with  a  soft  protracted  cry,  something  like  the  whining 
bark  of  a  young  dog,  and  as  soon  as  this  cry  is  heard  they 
may  be  seen  advancing  in  great  numbers ;  and  if  the  spec- 
tator happens  to  be  in  a  boat,  it  is  no  unamusing  sight  to 
see  them  swim  and  play  around  it.  It  is  likewise  -no  un- 
common thing  to  find  the  negroes  going  waist  deep  into  the 
rivers,  whose  waters  are  literally  alive  with  these  creatures, 
for  the  purpose  of  taking  them ;  and  it  rarely  happens  that 
they  meet  with  an  accident.  But  if  one  fellow,  bolder  than 


98  THE  CROCODILE. 

the  rest,  seizes  the  black  man  by  the  leg,  as  soon  as  the 
latter  finds  himself  taken  hold  of  thus  roughly,  he  turns 
round  and  very  coolly  and  dexterously  thrusts  his  fingers 
into  the  poor  creature's  eyes,  which  forces  him  at  once  to 
give  up  his  hold. 

The  negroes  of  Guyaquil  hunt  the  caymans  even  in  deep 
water  with  incredible  intrepidity.  One  of  the  party  arms 
himself  with  a  lath-like  piece  of  hard  wood,  about  eighteen 
inches  long,  and  pointed  at  both  ends.  As  soon  as  he  dis- 
covers a  crocodile  he  swims  towards  him,  dives  under  the 
water,  and  as  soon  as  the  creature  opens  his  mouth,  he 
thrusts  his  wooden  javelin  between  his  jaws  in  a  perpendic- 
ular direction.  Feeling  that  he  has  something  to  close  his 
teeth  upon,  the  crocodile  does  so,  and  thus  the  sharp  points 
of  the  stick  penetrate  his  palate  and  throat.  This  renders 
him  helpless,  and  the  negroes  then  draw  him  to  land  with  a 
rope,  and  binding  him  by  the  feet  to  the  nearest  tree,  kill 
him  without  farther  trouble.  Another  quite  common  method 
of  taking  them  is  with  a  large  iron  hook,  baited  with  a  piece 
of  putrid  flesh. 

The  Gavials  are  natives  of  the  warm  countries  of  Asia,  and 
differ  from  all  others  of  the  crocodile  species  by  a  long  thin 
proboscis.  Those  of  the  Ganges  are  the  largest  of  the  race ; 
they  live  upon  fish,  scarcely  ever  feeding  upon  human  beings 
or  mammalious  animals. 

Like  the  ancient  Egyptians,  many  of  the  natives  of  the 
East  Indies  and  the  Isle  of  Sunda,  worship  the  crocodile 
even  in  the  present  day.  The  inhabitants  of  Borneo,  at  the 


THE    CROCODILE.  99 

time  of  their  yearly  festivals,  bring  them  an  oblation  in  order 
to  propitiate  their  favor.  This  is  done  in  the  following 
manner :  They  make  a  little  boat  out  of  bark,  in  which 
they  place  a  quantity  of  prepared  rice,  some  boiled  eggs, 
and  a  roasted  fowl,  together  with  a  lighted  taper  at  each 
end.  They  give  the  little  vessel  to  the  stream,  to  be  borne 
away  by  the  current  to  whatever  spot  chance  may  direct, 
and  in  the  deepening  twilight,  or  in  the  night,  hundreds  of 
these  tiny  lights  may  be  seen  sparkling  like  stars  upon  the 
water. 

A  traveller  tells  us  that  a  few  years  ago,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Indus,  he  saw  a  pool  in  which  a  large  number 
of  the  sacred  crocodiles  were  kept,  and  regularly  fed  by  the 
Fakirs. 

"We  had  left,"  says  he,  "the  Indus,  and  reached  a  se- 
cluded valley,  shut  in  on  all  sides  by  high  hills ;  on  our 
right  hand  lay  a  wood  of  magnificent  palm  trees,  among 
which  were  seen  the  white  domes  of  the  sepulchres  where 
the  priests  were  buried ;  on  our  left  was  a  beautiful  grove  of 
tamarind  trees.  After  passing  by  a  few  miserable  huts, 
which  looked  rather  pisturesque  among  the  beautiful  mango, 
palm,  and  tamarind  trees,  we  came  to  a  large  pool,  of  per- 
haps two  hundred  feet  in  length  and  fifty  in  breadth,  where 
the  sacred  crocodiles,  with  their  heads  peering  above  the 
water,  opened  their  frightful  jaws  as  if  to  threaten  us  for 
our  intrusion.  A  mineral  spring,  the  waters  of  which  are 
so  hot  that  no  one  can  bear  his  hand  in  it  a  minute,  gushes 
from  the  rocks  about  a  mile  to  the  north  of  this  spot,  and 


100  THE  CBOCODILE. 

after  running  for  a  short  distance  in  a  narrow  channel,  dis- 
appears, but  pursuing  a  subterranean  course,  it  again  rises 
to  the  surface,  once  more  assuming  the  form  of  a  spring. 
A  little  basin  is  formed  around  it,  and  meeting  with  some 
other  rills,  the  united  waters  empty  themselves  into  the 
pool,  on  whose  banks  more  than  a  hundred  crocodiles  of  all 
sizes  are  to  be  seen  stretched  out  in  lazy  enjoyment  of  the 
rays  of  the  sun.  Fakirs,  whose  only  occupation  is  to  feed 
these  creatures,  now  came  forward  to  offer  their  services  to 
*  the  strangers,'  and  as  we  were  once  delighted  in  visiting 
the  carp  pond  at  Charlottesburg,  to  see  the  fish  leap  out  of 
the  water  at  the  sound  of  a  bell,  so  were  we  also  diverted  to 
see  these  ugly  creatures  come  from  the  pool  at  the  bidding 
of  the  Fakirs,  and,  like  dogs,  lie  down  at  their  feet  to  receire 
their  food.  According  to  old  usages,  we  brought  a  goat  as 
'our  share  of  the  usual  oblation  to  the  crocodiles,  made  the 
Fakirs  a  present,  and  then  hastened  to  pursue  our  journey, 
and  shut  out  this  disgusting  spectacle  as  soon  as  possible 
from  our  eyes." 

All  travellers  who  have  had  opportunity  of  observing  the 
crocodile  closely,  coincide  in  the  opinion  that  he  is  a  much 
less  dangerous  enemy  to  man  than  is  generally  supposed. 
True  it  is  that  every  year  some  human  beings  fall  a  prey  to 
them,  but  it  is  mainly  attributable  to  their  own  carelessness, 
in  choosing  to  bathe  in  such  places  where  many  of  these 
creatures  resort.  There  are  instances  related  where  men 
delivered  themselves  by  their  presence  of  mind,  when  in  the 
very  throat  of  a  crocodile.  Humboldt  tells  of  an  Indian 


THE  CROCODILE.  101 

girl,  who,  standing  on  the  bank  of  the  Orinoco,  was  dipping 
water,  when  she  felt  herself  seized  and  dragged  into  the 
water  by  one  of  these  animals.  In  an  instant  the  courage- 
ous maiden  thought  of  self-defence,  and  turning  round, 
thrust  her  fingers  so  resolutely  into  her  enemy's  eyes,  that 
he  instantly  let  go  the  hold  he  had  taken  of  her  arm. 
Heedless  of  the  pain  and  loss  of  blood,  she  swam  to  the 
shore,  where  several  men  were  assembled,  who  carried  her 
to  one  of  their  huts,  and  it  was  not  a  great  while  until  she 
had  quite  recovered. 

The  same  mode  of  procedure  is  observed  "by  the  negroes 
in  the  interior  of  Africa,  when  exposed  to  similar  danger. 
When  Mungo  Park  was  travelling  up  the  Niger  in  a  boat, 
his  guide,  Isaac,  was  suddenly  seized  by  the  thigh,  and 
dragged  under  the  water  by  the  huge  animal.  With  aston- 
ishing presence  of  mind  he  felt  for  the  creature's  head,  and 
thrust  his  finger  into  one  of  his  eyes.  Howling  with  pain, 
he  released  his  victim,  and  Isaac  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
shore  by  swimming.  Scarcely,  however,  had  he  reached  it, 
and  was  looking  round  for  his  companions,  when  the  croco- 
dile shot  through  the  water  a  second  time,  seized  him  before 
he  had  time  to  think,  and  dragged  him  down  to  the  bottom. 
Still  Isaac  did  not  lose  his  senses — he  knew  there  was  but 
one  way  of  battling  with  his  enemy  to  ensure  his  escape — 
he  therefore  used  the  same  means  as  before,  and  with  the 
same  success.  The  crocodile  let  go  his  hold,  and  after 
splashing  about  for  a  short  while  on  the  surface  of  the  water, 
like  one  bewildered,  he  at  last  crept  into  the  rushes  that 


102  THE   CROCODILE. 

bordered  the  stream.  In  the  meantime,  Isaac  had  been 
taken  up  by  the  persons  in  the  boat ;  he  was  much  exhausted 
by  the  loss  of  blood,  for  he  had  been  dreadfully  wounded  by 
the  teeth  of  his  voracious  adversary,  but  after  a  few  weeks 
rest  and  care,  he  was  perfectly  recovered. 

Modern  travellers  represent  the  whole  species  as  much 
less  dangerous,  than  do  the  ancients.  Gerstacker — who 
indeed  tells  only  of  the  American  Cayman — speaks  in 
reference  to  this  subject  in  the  following  manner :  "  Many 
are  the  frightful  stories  told  of  the  voracity  of  the  alliga- 
tors,— that,  greedy  and  blood-thirsty,  they  are  always  on 
the  watch  for  the  approach  of  some  human  being,  and  that 
none  can  come  into  their  neighborhood  without  being  seized 
upon  and  devoured  !  I  have  always  viewed  them  as  harm- 
less, peaceable  creatures,  and  have  found  great  sport  in 
hunting  them.  Shooting  at  a  great  many,  I  found  that 
after  swimming  about  for  a  little  while  they  sank  down  to 
the  bottom,  so  that  I  lost  my  prey.  At  last  I  had  recourse  to 
the  harpoon  as  a  better  weapon ;  to  this  I  fastened  a  strong 
rope,  perhaps  twenty  feet  long.  I  then  would  wade  up  to 
my  waist  in  water,  and  stand  under  one  of  the  many  cypress 
trees  that  grew  in  the  swamp,  to  await  the  coming  of  an 
alligator,  for  in  the  glowing  noon-tide  heat  they  leave  the 
mud  to  swim  about,  or  stretch  themselves  on  some  bank  to 
sun  themselves.  When  one  came  within  ten  or  fifteen  feet 
of  me  he  was  certainly  mine,  and  then  the  principal  sport 
began,  and  capital  sport  it  was,  if  he  proved  a  fine  large  fel- 
low, resolved  to  be  not  easily  conquered.  I  threw  my  har- 


THE  CROCODILE.  103 

poon;  he  pulled  the  rope  outwards,  whilst  I  dragged  it 
inwards,  and  thus  contended  until,  weakened  with  loss  of 
blood,  he  became  my  prey. 

"  But  finding  that  standing  in  the  sun  during  the  heat  of 
the  day  was  by  no  means  pleasant,  or  improving  to  mv 
health,  I  resolved  to  try  the  *  fire  hunt,'  of  which  I  had 
heard  a  great  deal.  As  I  always  loved  exciting  sports,  I 
was  particularly  charmed  with  what  the  Creoles  told  me  of 
this  method  of  hunting  the  cayman,  for  they  assured  me 
'  an  alligator  hunt  was  far  more  dangerous  at  night  than  bv 
day,  for  then  they  were  a  great  deal  wilder  and  fiercer,  and 
fought  the  hunters  with  great  fury.'  " 

The  next  evening  I  took  my  gun,  a  pan  full  of  resinous 
wood  split  up  fine,  and  my  harpoon,  and  thus  equipped,  1 
repaired  to  the  place  where  I  knew  they  were  to  be  found, 
and  the  sight  that  presented  itself  when  I  reached  the 
border  of  the  swamp  was  so  truly  charming,  that  I  was  en- 
abled to  endure  patiently  the  stings  of  thousands  of  mus- 
quitoes  that  attacked  me  most  unmercifully. 

The  dark  expanse  of  water,  the  majestic  cypress,  with 
their  moss  covered  trunks,  the  thick  and  dusky  forest  that 
surrounded  the  morass,  the  melancholy  cadence  of  the  bull- 
frogs, and  the  hooting  cry  of  the  owls,  all  these  were  things 
to  which  I  was  well  accustomed  ;  but  now  I  saw  the  water 
teeming  with  living  things,  populous  as  a  city,  in  a  manner 
I  never  could  have  imagined.  Thousands  of  animated  crea- 
tures were  splashing  and  tumbling  about  in  this  their  special 
domain,  springing  up  and  dashing  the  water  about  in  high 


104  THE   CROCODILE. 

enjoyment,  and  as  the  bright  flame  of  the  burning  resin 
illumined  the  dark  surface,  it  showed  me  hundreds  of  red 
glowing  eyes  on  all  sides,  sometimes  gazing  quietly  on  the 
unwonted  light,  sometimes  moving  and  glancing  as  their 
owners  swam  around.  These  were  the  eyes  of  the  alligators, 
and  they  sparkled  on  the  dark  water  like  bits  of  red  hot  iron 
in  a  smith's  forge. 

As  I  had  only  one  hand  free,  I  could  not  well  manage 
my  gun  and  harpoon  at  the  same  time.  I  therefore  shot 
the  animal  in  the  head  that  came  closest  to  me,  and  then 
laying  my  gun  down,  I  took  the  harpoon  in  its  place,  struck 
it  into  the  alligator's  body,  and  dragged  him  with  the  rope 
to  the  shore. 

I  had  succeeded  in  disposing  of  two  after  this  manner, 
when  I  saw  a  pair  of  large  red  eyes  coming  towards  me. 
My  gun  was  again  loaded — I  aimed — shot — once  more  threw 
down  the  gun,  and  raising  the  harpoon  on  high,  I  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  moment,  when  the  wounded  alligator  turning 
over  in  the  water,  showed  his  white  belly,  to  hurl  it  with 
certain  aim  into  this  vulnerable  part. 

At  the  moment  of  throwing  my  harpoon  I  was  standing 
on  the  border  of  the  swamp,  and  the  end  of  the  rope  was 
fastened  to  my  right  hand  wrist.  Scarcely  had  the  alligator 
felt  the  probe  of  the  barbed  iron,  than,  maddened  with  pain, 
he  shot  forth  and  dived  down  under  the  water,  and  before  I 
had  time  to  think,  had,  by  a  sudden  pull,  drawn  me  after 
him.  The  pan  fell  from  my  hand,  the  blazing  resin  was 
extinguished  with  a  hissing  sound,  and  although  with  the 


THE  CROCODILE.  105 

best  will  in  the  world  to  do  so,  I  could  not  release  myself, 
for  the  rope  was  wound  many  times  around  my  arm.  Twice 
had  I  been  dragged  under  water  by  the  powerful  efforts  of 
my  travelling  companion  on  this  hasty  journey,  before  I  felt 
firm  earth  under  my  feet.  Luckily  for  me,  the  swamp  was 
not  very  deep,  and  so  I  was  at  last  enabled  to  plant  myself 
firmly,  and  make  a  halt.  The  alligator,  by  this  time,  was 
evidently  weakened  by  loss  of  blood  and  his  great  efforts  to 
escape ;  I  had  now  but  little  trouble,  as  I  drew  the  rope 
lightly  and  cautiously  to  bring  him  towards  the  shore.  As 
we  reached  it,  I  pulled  harder,  in  order  to  land  him  fairly, 
but  he  had  no  mind  to  give  up  so  easily,  and  collecting  his 
strength  for  a  last  effort,  he  drew  back  so  violently  that  I 
pitched  heels  over  head  into  the  black  mud  of  the  swamp. 
Yet  I  was  able  to  work  my  way  out  once  more,  and  this 
time  without  much  trouble,  for  the  water  was  scarcely  four 
feet  deep  ;  and  having  brought  the  hideous  creature — who, 
after  this  last  plunge,  made  but  weak  resistance — to  dry 
land,  I  killed  him  in  a  minute. 

This  being  done,  I  had  time  to  think  of  myself.  I  found 
I  was  wet  through  to  the  skin,  and  in  perfect  darkness. 
Happily  I  had  left  my  tinder-box  and  matches,  together 
with  some  pine  splinters,  at  the  foot  of  a  neighboring  nut 
tree,  and  it  required  but  a  few  seconds  to  kindle  up  a  bright 
flame. 

The  huge  alligator  was  about  ten  feet  long,  but  after  all 
the  pains  I  had  taken  to  capture,  I  could  make  no  use  of 
him— he  was  too  old  to  be  eatable,  and  too  poor  to  promise 


106  THE  CROCODILE. 

to  yield  fat  enough  to  pay  for  the  trouble  of  cutting  him  up ; 
this  last  being  much  used  among  the  planters  for  greasing 
their  cotton  machines.  The  two  first  I  had  killed  were  from 
four  to  five  feet  long ;  I  cut  off  the  tails,  and  carried  the 
eatable  parts  home  with  me.  Only  a  few  of  the  Creoles  and 
negroes  eat  the  flesh — some  loathing,  others  believing  it  to 
be  poisonous ;  nevertheless,  I  have  found  it  quite  palateable, 
and  never  experienced  any  bad  consequences  after  eating 
it.  The  meat  is  white  and  firm,  and  tastes  like  that  of  a 
large  fish ;  but  the  tail  must  be  cut  off,  and  the  back  bone 
taken  out  immediately,  or  else  it  will  imbibe  the  musk- 
like  odor  peculiar  to  these  animals,  so  as  not  to  be  fit  for 
use. 

Some  time  after  this,  I  went  with  a  comrade  to  hunt  alli- 
gators once  more  ;  this  was  a  better  mode  of  procedure,  for 
as  one  shot,  the  other  threw  the  harpoon,  and  the  labor  was 
considerably  lightened. 

Anxiously  as  these  creatures  seem  to  avoid  white  men,  they 
nevertheless  show  great  antipathy  to  the  negroes,  who,  on  this 
account,  greatly  fear  them.  They  have  a  singular  hatred 
of  dogs,  and  pursue  all  that  come  near  them  with  great, 
fury. 

I  was  standing  one  afternoon  with  my  harpoon  in  my 
hand,  and  up  to  my  waist  in  water,  waiting  for  one  to  ap- 
proach, but  although  I  saw  many  swimming  about,  none 
came  near  enough  for  me  to  venture  a  launch.  It  struck 
me  that  by  imitating  the  barking  of  a  dog,  I  could  attract 
them  to  a  closer  neighborhood.  I  had  only  to  repeat  the 


THE    CROCODILE.  107 

experiment  two  or  three  times,  until  I  saw  at  least  fifteen 
stout  fellows  coming  rapidly  towards  me.  This  was  rather 
more  company  than  I  judged  it  prudent  to  have,  especially 
as  I  was  standing  so  deep  in  the  water,  that  I  was  not  en- 
tirely master  of  my  own  movements.  I  worked  my  way  out 
as  rapidly  as  I  could  to  the  shore,  which  was  about  two  hun- 
dred feet  distant.  Having  reached  it,  I  began  anew  to  bark ; 
but  as  I  stood  completely  exposed  to  the  view  of  the  alliga- 
tors, they  kept  at  a  respectful  distance,  and  contented  them- 
selves with  gazing  upon  me  with  open  jaws,  and  swimming 
round,  but  never  once  coming  within  range  of  my  harpoon, 
and  so  disappointed  me  of  my  anticipated  sport. 


THE  great  plague  of  countries  lying  within  the  tropics  ia 
serpents,  of  which,  some  species  are  extremely  dangerous, 
either  from  their  size,  their  muscular  strength,  or  the  swift- 
ness of  their  movements ;  whilst  others,  from  their  deadly 
venom,  are  yet  quite  as  much  to  be  feared,  being  even  more 
destructive  to  both  man  and  beast. 

Among  those  not  poisonous,  'but  the  largest  of  all,  is  the 
boa  constrictor  or  giant  snake ;  they  are  found  in  the  trop- 
ical regions  of  both  the  old  and  new  world,  always  harboring 
in  large  and  dense  forests.  When  waiting  for  prey,  they 
generally  wind  themselves  round  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  from 
which  they  unloose  and  dart  themselves  with  inconceivable 
rapidity  upon  the  first  animal  that  comes  near.  Having 
crushed  their  prey  to  death,  they  lick  it  over  with  a  gluti- 
nous kind  of  spittle,  and  swallow  it  all  at  once — for  their 
throats  are  capable  of  being  distended  to  an  incredible  size ; 
they  lay  immovable  for  days  in  order  to  digest  this  enor- 
mous meal.  During  this  time  they  can  be  approached  with 
perfect  safety,  and  are  easily  killed,  whereas  nothing  can  be 
more  dangerous  than  to  attack  a  hungry  boa.  Yet  they  are 
often  hunted  both  by  daring  sportsmen  and  the  natives, 

(108) 


SERPENTS.  109 

either  with  guns  loaded  with  large  ball,  and  sometimes  with 
bows  and  arrows. 

The  anaconda,  or  water  snake,  belongs  also  to  the  giant 
species,  and  sometimes  grow  to  the  length  of  forty  feet. 
They  bury  themselves  under  the  broad  leaves  of  aquatic 
plants,  which  grow  on  the  borders  of  the  large  rivers,  to 
wait  for  prey,  or  else  lie  coiled  up  like  a  huge  cable  on  the 
bank,  enjoying  the  rays  of  the  bright  sun.  It  is  not  consid- 
ered dangerous  sport  to  hunt  them,  for  they  are  a  stupid 
and  timid  race,  and  always  flee  at  the  approach  of  man — 
and  therefore  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  the  natives  of  South 
America,  when  they  find  the  hideous  reptile  endeavoring  to 
escape,  swim  after  them  until  they  get  close  to  the  head, 
when  they  kill  him  with  a  long  knife. 

A  Hollander  who  travelled  in  Surinam  a  few  years  ago, 
gives  the  following  account  of  the  anaconda  : 

"As  I  was  sailing  up  one  of  the  large  rivers,  I  saw  some- 
thing that  looked  like  a  large  shining  bundle  or  ball,  lying 
in  the  mud  near  the  bank.  Determined  to  see  what  it  was, 
I  bade  the  boatmen  row  in  that  direction,  but  as  we  came 
near,  the  negroes,  by  whom  the  boat  was  manned,  begged 
me  to  let  them  turn  her  in  an  opposite  direction,  for  the 
bundle  was  nothing  more  nor  less  than  a  rolled  up  anaconda. 
I  believed  the  reptile  to  be  dead,  or  at  least  sick,  as  he  lay 
so  motionless  in  the  mud,  for  the  splashing  of  our  oars  had 
not  disturbed  him ;  and  when  we  got  near  enough,  I  gave 
him  a  stroke  with  the  rudder.  This  troubled  him  just  so  far 
as  to  cause  him  to  raise  his  head,  but  he  soon  returned  it 


110  SERPENTS. 

slowly  to  its  place,  and  remained  immovable  as  at  first.  I 
now  fired  my  gun,  loaded  with  ball  and  coarse  shot,  at  him, 
aiming  directly  for  the  head.  The  charge  struck  him — 
wounding,  but  not  killing  him ;  it  roused  all  his  fury ;  he 
raised  up  his  whole  length  higher  than  our  heads,  and  was 
just  about  to  throw  himself  into  the  boat,  in  which  case  our 
destruction  was  certain.  But  just  at  this  moment,  our 
steersman,  with  great  presence  of  mind,  turned  the  boat — 
one  of  the  negroes  struck  him  on  the  back  with  an  oar,  and 
another  fired  a  well  aimed  shot  directly  at  his  head ;  he  fell 
back  into  the  water — dead.  He  was  in  fine  condition,  and 
yielded  a  considerable  quantity  of  fat,  which  the  natives 
esteem  a  valuable  remedy  for  many  diseases." 

Another  species  of  the  boa  is  called  the  king's  or  idol 
snake ;  it  is  also  found  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  long,  and 
swallows  goats,  calves,  and  it  is  said  cows,  with  great  ease. 

"  I  have  often,"  says  a  traveller  from  Guinea,  "  seen 
them  creeping  through  the  plains  and  meadows,  and  amused 
myself  by  watching  the  rising  and  sinking  of  the  plants  and 
bushes  over  which  they  passed,  and  once  very  incautiously 
stumbled  over  one  that  lay  coiled  up  like  a  cable  in  my  way. 
He  raised  up  his  head  in  an  instant  as  if  to  prepare  for  an 
attack,  but  I  was  so  happy  as  to  escape. 

"  Armed  only  with  a  knife,  the  negroes  seek  the  hiding 
places  of  these  snakes,  and  lying  down  with  their  legs 
stretched  out,  they  await  the  onset  of  the  hungry  reptile. 
As  soon  as  he  darts  upon  him  (for  in  this  position  of  his 
enemy  he  cannot  wind,)  the  negro  splits  the  head  with  his 


SERPENTS.  Ill 

knife,  rips  up  the  body  and  hanging  it  on  a  tree,  strips  off 
the  skin,  which  he  considers  quite  a  prize." 

The  black  snake  is  found  in  great  numbers  in  America, 
and  many  wonderful  tales  are  related  of  its  powers  of  en- 
chantment. A  traveller  adds  his  testimony  to  the  truth  of 
this,  by  some  deemed  fabulous  property,  by  the  following 
narration : 

"  One  evening  as  I  was  making  my  way  through  a  thick 
forest  on  the  borders  of  Florida  and  Georgia,  my  attention 
was  arrested  by  the  singular  cries  of  many  birds.  Looking 
round  I  saw  quite  a  number  of  various  kinds  perched  on  a 
tree  near  a  squirrel,  which  sat  on  a  branch  about  twenty  feet 
from  the  ground.  To  my  great  surprise  this  naturally  lively 
little  animal  remained  perfectly  immovable  for  a  time,  but 
he  at  length  sprung  to  a  lower  branch,  still  accompanied  by 
his  winged  followers  uttering  the  same  outcry.  A  second 
leap  brought  him  still  nearer  to  the  earth.  Astonished  at 
his  strange  manoeuvres  I  approached  quite  close  to  the  tree, 
and  there  at  its  foot  coiled  up  lay  a  large  black  snake,  which 
with  upraised  head  seemed  gazing  intently  on  the  poor  vic- 
tim that  the  third  leap  had  brought  within  one  foot  of  the 
devourer.  My  gun  was  ready  loaded,  it  was  but  the  work 
of  a  minute  to  level,  fire  and  cut  the  snake  in  two.  I  then 
took  up  the  squirrel,  that  cold  and  rigid  seemed  at  first  to 
be  dead,  but  soon  reviving,  in  less  than  ten  minutes  he 
hopped  away  as  lively  as  ever." 

The  black  snake  lives  mostly  in  the  woods,  hidden  in  deep 
holes,  and  is,  when  at  full  size,  from  six  to  seven  feet  long. 


112  SERPENTS. 

Although  it  is  not  venomous,  neither  dangerous  from  its 
strength  and  size,  unlike  most  other  snakes  it  does  not  fly 
from  man,  but  seizes  him  boldly  when  it  has  opportunity, 
and  follows  him  closely.  The  negroes  unheeding  their  bite, 
which  is  perfectly  harmless,  amuse  themselves  by  provoking 
him ;  they  take  him  up  in  their  hands,  and  he  winds  himself 
round  their  arms  and  bodies  and  seeks  to  bite  them,  but 
happily  their  anger  is  not  to  be  feared. 

The  animosity  which  the  black  snake  exhibits  towards 
the  copper-head  is  remarkable,  inasmuch  as  he  dashes  at 
once  upon  this  hated  and  dangerous  enemy ;  at  sight  of 
which  he  is  always  enraged,  and  crushes  him  to  death  at 
once  by  a  superior  strength.  In  Georgia,  therefore,  they 
do  not  seek  to  extirpate  them,  but  suffer  them  to  increase  ; 
deeming  them  of  great  use  in  the  plantations  as  the  most 
efficient  enemy  of  the  poisonous  copper-heads. 

In  reference  to  this  subject,  the  hogs,  too,  are  very  valua- 
ble animals ;  for,  independant  of  their  usefulness  for  domes- 
tic purposes,  they  are  potent  enemies  to  the  most  poisonous 
snakes,  delighting  to  destroy  them,  and  receiving  no  injury 
from  their  bite,  as  the  thick  layer  of  fat  between  their  flesh 
and  skin  prevents  the  venom  from  making  any  impression 

Of  all  the  poisonous  reptiles  the  rattle  snake  is  the  most 
dangerous,  although  he  seldom  attacks  man  unless  provoked. 
Coiled  up  in  a  ring  with  his  head  erect  he  watches  the 
movement  of  everything  that  approaches  him ;  but  before 
he  darts  upon  the  intruder  he  always  gives  warning  by 
shaking  his  rattle,  the  sound  of  which  is  not  unlike  the 


SEKPENTS.  113 

crackling  of  parchment  when  rubbed  together,  and  is  caused 
by  the  movement  of  a  number  of  horny  rings,  inserted  one 
into  another  and  placed  at  the  extremity  of  the  tail.  The 
next  moment  he  uncoils  himself  and  darts  upon  his  victim  ; 
but  never  shoots  forward  more  than  half  his  own  length. 
They  are  found  in  the  northern  latitudes  between  the  tropics 
as  well  as  the  southern,  and  in  these  separate  climates  they 
differ  in  choosing  their  places  of  resort.  In  the  north  they 
are  found  in  high,  dry  and  rocky  regions,  where,  if  undis- 
turbed by  the  presence  of  man,  they  increase  to  a  fearful 
degree.  This  is  well  known  to  the  settlers  in  the  United 
States,  for  it  is  not  uncommon  for  those  who  have  taken 
possession  of  hitherto  uncultivated  lands,  to  form  large  com- 
panies in  order  to  hunt  and  extirpate  them,  and  they  have 
often  killed  several  hundred  in  a  day. 

In  the  South  the  rattle  snake  chooses  some  damp  place 
by  the  sea  shore  or  some  large  river,  and  makes  his  home 
under  the  spreading  water  plants  or  among  the  sea  grass. 
He  also  infests  the  fields  of  sugar  cane,  and  the  negroes 
that  work  there  are  frequently  bitten. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  those  who  have  been  wounded 
by  rattle  snakes  almost  immediately  become  convulsed ;  and 
as  the  poison  enters  into  the  circulation,  the  spasms  in- 
crease in  violence,  and  death  ensues  in  an  incredibly  short 
time.  It  is,  therefore,  a  custom  when  one  is  bitten,  at  once 
to  tie  a  ligature  tightly  above  the  wound,  and  thus  prevent 
the  poison  from  mingling  with  the  blood.  This  experiment 
has  been  tried,  first  on  animals,  and  afterwards  on  human 
8 


114  SERPENTS. 

beings,  and  generally  with  favorable  effect,  for  if  a  dog  had 
been  bitten  by  a  rattle  snake,  and  the  ligature  immediately 
applied  as  mentioned  above,  although  he  fell  into  convul- 
sions, yet  as  the  diffusion  of  the  poison  into  the  system  was 
thus  prevented,  they  passed  off  without  any  great  violence. 
If  the  bandage  was  somewhat  loosened,  and  the  venom  was 
permitted  to  mix  even  but  slightly  with  the  blood,  renewed 
spasms  were  sure  to  follow ;  but  on  its  being  again  drawn 
tightly,  the  animal  again  revived.  In  this  manner,  by  let- 
ting the  poison  mix  gradually  with  the  blood,  the  force  of 
its  virulence  is  checked,  and  the  spasms  kept  from  following 
each  other  too  rapidly,  and  that  which  without  the  timely 
and  skilful  application  of  the  ligature,  would  have  caused 
instant  death,  falls  only  on  a  certain  set  of  nerves,  from 
which  affection  the  animal  ultimately  recovers.  In  this 
manner  men  who  have  been  bitten  by  rattle  snakes  are  also 
treated,  and  with  the  same  success ;  and  although  in  earlier 
days  the  bite  of  the  reptiles  were  considered  as  certain 
death,  it  is  much  less  dreaded  in  the  present.  The  rattle 
snake,  as  well  as  the  not  less  poisonous  cobra  di  capelh,  are 
so  easily  wounded  that  they  can  be  killed  by  a  blow  fronr  *» 
rod. 


I  WAS  landed  by  an  English  corvette  at  Valparaiso,  the 
principal  port  for  trade  in  Chili,  and  possessing,  beside  other 
maritime  advantages,  the  largest  and  most  commodious  ha- 
ven on  the  western  coast  of  South  America.  I  had  passed 
a  whole  month  in  this  beautiful  ship,  fitted  out  with  all  the 
conveniences  of  European  life,  in  the  company  of  the  most 
polite  and  agreeable  set  of  officers,  enjoying  with  them  not 
only  the  most  delightful  intercourse,  but  enough  of  luxury 
to  make  me  believe  a  sea  voyage  the  most  charming  thing 
in  the  world.  Passing  my  time  so  pleasantly,  favored  by 
most  glorious  weather,  and  sailing  on  the  most  beautiful  sea 
in  the  world,  it  was  not  without  regret  that  I  felt  myself 
obliged  to  decline  their  kind  invitation  to  sail  with  them 
round  Cape  Horn.  But  I  was  young  and  strong  enough  to 
bear  the  fatigue  and  hardships  of  a  journey  over  the  Cor- 
dilleras and  through  the  Pampas ;  and  believing  I  should  be 
rewarded  by  gazing  on  richly  varied  scenes  of  natural  beau- 
ty, spread  out  with  lavish  hand  in  those  regions,  I  refused 
the  tempting  offer ;  and  telling  them  I  hoped  to  see  their 
hospitable  flag  flying  when  I  reached  Buenos  Ayres,  I  bade 
them  farewell. 

Valparaiso,  notwithstanding  its  pompous  name,  is,  con- 

(115) 


116  VALPARAISO. 

trary  to  what  one  would  expect,  a  very  ugly  place;  for  no 
one  who  has  ever  seen  other  vallies  would  ever  dream  of 
calling  this  narrow  rocky  space,  cut  through  dells  between 
the  mountains  and  the  sea,  by  such  a  paradisical  name.  In 
many  places  the  space  is  so  narrow  that  there  is  scarcely 
room  for  an  house ;  in  others  the  buildings  are  piled  up  like 
birds'  nests,  one  above  another,  against  the  mountain.  On 
account  of  the  many  earthquakes  the  houses  are  only  one 
storied ;  but  within  those  modest  walls,  owing  to  the  wealth 
brought  by  the  increasing  commerce  of  the  city,  great 
wealth  is  hidden. 

During  my  stay  in  Valparaiso,  two  circumstances  hap- 
pened, unimportant  in  themselves,  but  worthy  to  be  men- 
tioned here,  as  serving  to  throw  some  light  on  the  character 
of  the  people.  A  principal  feature  in  the  latter  and  seem- 
ingly the  same  in  all  grades  of  society,  is  an  unbounded 
avarice,  that  has  its  foundation  in  an  unbridled  passion  for 
gambling  and  strong  drink.  Owing  to  this  and  to  the  discov- 
ery that,  since  the  working-  of  the  rich  gold  and  silver 
mines  of  their  country,  the  condition  of  the  primitive  in- 
habitants has  sadly  degenerated.  The  Indian  natives,  not 
daring  to  work  them  themselves,  refuse  to  tell  the  covetous 
Europeans,  as  they  did  in  earlier  times,  where  the  rich 
veins  of  gold  and  silver  lay,  or  direct  them  to  the  hills 
where  shafts  have  been  opened. 

Many  years  ago  a  rich  owner  of  a  mine,  who  suspected 
that  many  valuable  beds  of  ore  lay  hidden  in  the  neighbor- 
ing mountains,  sent  a  young  man  to  search  the  whole  region, 


VALPARAISO.  117 

bidding  him  leave  no  means  untried  to  find  out  where  the 
earth's  rich  treasures  were  to  he  found.  The  youth  was 
worthy  of  his  office ;  and  knowing  that  more  could  be  ob- 
tained from  the  knowledge  possessed  by  the  natives  than  by 
exploration,  he  went  to  a  village  near  the  mountains  and 
took  up  his  abode  in  the  cottage  of  an  Indian  shepherd,  to 
whom  he  was,  as  may  be  supposed,  silent  as  to  the  motive 
of  his  coming  among  them.  His  host  had  a  daughter,  and 
after  a  short  time  the  young  man  succeeded  in  gaining  her 
affection  and  confidence,  and  trusting  to  the  love  of  woman 
what  he  feared  to  make  known  to  the  suspicion  of  man,  he 
at  last  desired  the  maiden,  in  proof  of  her  love,  to  show  him 
the  entrance  to  what  he  had  found  out  really  to  exist,  an 
old  and  long  disused  rich  silver  mine. 

Trusting  him,  nor  deeming  one  she  loved  so  well  could  be 
a  deceiver,  she  bade  him  follow  her  the  next  morning  when 
she  was  to  lead  her  flock  to  the  hills,  and  watch  where  she 
dropped  her  woolen  apron,  for  there  would  be  the  entrance 
to  the  coveted  spot.  The  young  man  did  as  she  desired, 
and  the  Indian  maiden,  faithful  to  her  promise,  gave  the 
signal.  He  began  at  once  to  dig,  and  there,  at  no  great 
depth  from  the  surface,  he  found  a  shaft  which  led  to  rich 
veins  of  silver. 

Highly  delighted,  he  pursued  his  occupation  heedless  of 
the  toil,  and  had  secured  several  lumps  of  ore,  when-  he  was 
surprised  by  the  old  shepherd,  who  coolly  wished  him  joy 
of  his  good  luck  and  offered  to  assist  him.  They  worked 
together  in  seeming  amity  for  a  few  hours,  when  the  old  man 


118  V  ALPARARAISO. 

stopped,  and  inviting  the  young  adventurer  to  partake  of  a 
mug  of  chicha,  an  intoxicating  beverage  made  of  rice,  bade 
him  drink  and  be  refreshed.  The  latter  did  so ;  but  soon 
after  feeling  the  most  deadly  sickness  come  over  him,  he 
began  to  suspect  he  was  poisoned.  He  gathered  up  his  bits 
of  silver  ore,  and  hastened  with  all  speed  to  his  master's 
house.  He  had  only  time  to  relate  the  adventure  and 
describe  the  place  were  the  mine  was  to  be  found,  ere  his 
senses  failed,  and  shortly  after  he  died. 

.Scarcely  waiting  until  the  breath  had  ceased,  men  were 
sent  to  find  the  place.  They  sought  every  where ;  they  used 
every  means  to  discover  what  had  been  so  plainly  described, 
but  in  vain.  The  old  Indian  and  his  family  had  left  the 
village;  and  of  the  lately  opened  shaft  not  the  slightest 
vestige  was  to  be  seen. 

Less  tragical  is  another  story.  A  Franciscan  monk,  pas- 
sionately addicted  to  play,  was  used,  when  his  money  was 
all  gone,  to  apply  to  the  neighboring  Indians,  by  whom  he 
was  greatly  beloved,  for  the  means  to  renew  his  funds.  One 
day  when  he  had  lost  all,  (for  it  must  be  confessed,  that 
among  the  priests  in  Chili  and  Peru,  the  love  of  play  is  a 
ruling  passion,)  he  called  upon  one  of  his  Indian  friends  for 
aid.  The  man  promised  to  assist  him ;  and  accordingly  on 
the  next  evening  brought  him  a  bag  full  of  silver  ore.  This 
was  repeated  several  times,  until  the  monk,  not  satisfied  to 
have  it  dealed  out  to  him  in  this  manner,  begged  to  be  shown 
the  source  from  which  this  rich  treasure  flowed.  Even  this 
prayer  was  granted,  and  a  day  appointed  for  the  visit,  and 


VALPARAISO.  119 

certainly  on  that  day  three  Indians  made  their  appearance 
in  the  cottage  of  the  Franciscan.  They  insisted,  however, 
that  he  should  submit  to  be  blindfolded,  to  which,  however 
unwillingly,  he  found  himself  obliged  to  consent ;  and  then 
taking  him  upon  their  shoulders,  his  Indian  friends  carried 
him  over  a  distance  of  several  leagues  into  the  heart  of  the 
mountain.  There  they  set  him  down,  and  led  him  to  a  shaft 
not  far  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  showed  him  veins 
of  brightly  glancing  silver  ore. 

After  collecting  as  much  as  he  needed  for  his  present 
purposes,  they  once  more  bandaged  his  eyes,  and  carried 
him  back  to  his  home.  But  the  crafty  priest  was  deter- 
mined not  to  be  thus  baffled,  and  determined  to  visit  and 
appropriate  the  treasure  as  he  might  wish  or  need,  made 
use  of  an  expedient  which  would  serve  to  guide  him  to  it, 
without  the  help  or  knowledge  of  his  dusky  comrades.  Slyly 
unloosing  his  rosary,  he  dropped  a  bead  every  here  and 
there  on  the  ground,  intending  to  use  them  as  waymarks  to 
the  place  where  the  silver,  of  which  he  had  so  much  need, 
lay  buried.  With  great  self-congratulations,  he  betook 
himself  to  rest;  but  he  was  not  a  little  astonished  on  the 
following  morning,  when  the  three  Indians  came  to  him, 
and  handing  him  the  collected  beads,  said,  with  a  quiet 
smile — 

"  Worthy  father,  you  have  lost  your  rosary  by  the  way, 
and  we  have  brought  it  to  you." 

The  tragical  history  of  the  Spaniard  Salcedo,  who,  a 
short  time  before  the  South  American  colonies  threw  off  the 


120  VALPARAISO. 

Spanish  yoke,  fell  a  victim  to  his  own  great  wealth ;  and 
the  covetousness  of  the  viceroy  is  well  known.  He  came 
from  his  native  country  to  America  a  poor  man  ;  but  having 
become  acquainted  with  an  Indian  maiden,  he  resolved  to 
make  her  his  wife.  Greatly  pleased  with  this  proposal,  the 
young  girl's  mother  promised  to  show  him  a  silver  mine — 
the  riches  of  which  was  inexhaustible;  and  true  to  that 
promise,  he  soon  found  himself  master  of  wealth  greater 
than  ever  he  dreamed  of.  He  found  veins  of  the  purest 
silver  ore ;  he  worked  his  mine  to  the  best  advantage,  and 
with  the  most  brilliant  success. 

This  success  was,  however,  fatal  to  himself,  for  it  awak- 
ened the  envy  and  cupidity  of  the  viceroy.  Salcedo  was  a 
benevolent,  generous  man ;  and  treating  the  Indians  ever 
with  a  kindness  they  never  met  with  from  the  rest  of  the 
white  men,  he  was  greatly  beloved  by  them ;  and  this  cir- 
cumstance was  made  use  of  in  the  complaint  lodged  against 
him  before  the  higher  powers.  He  was  represented  as  cor- 
rupting the  natives  by  gifts,  and  encouraging  them  to  an 
insurrection.  His  enemies  were  successful :  he  was  impris- 
oned, and  with  scarce  the  formality  of  a  trial,  condemned 
to  death.  From  his  cell  he  wrote  to  the  viceroy,  entreating 
that  he  might  send  a  statement  of  the  whole  proceedings  to 
Madrid,  and  permission  to  appeal  to  the  grace  of  the  king, 
and  if  he  (the  viceroy)  should  grant  this  request,  he  would 
give  him  a  bar  of  pure  silver  every  day  until  the  ship  which 
bore  the  petition  should  return. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  at  that  time  a  voyage  to  and 


VALPARAISO.  121 

from  Spain  could  not  be  accomplished  under  twelve  or  four- 
teen weeks,  some  estimate  may  be  formed  of  Salcedo's 
wealth.  His  prayer,  however,  was  not  granted,  and  he  was 
executed.  As  soon  as  this  was  over,  the  v/ceroy  set  about 
finding  out  this  rich  mine,  determined  to  make  it  his  own, — 
but  his  cruelty  was  destined  to  be  disappointed  in  its  hoped- 
for  reward.  The  mother-in-law  of  the  condemned,  together 
with  her  relations,  had  gone  to  the  spot,  destroyed  all  the 
works,  and  closed  up  the  entrance  to  the  shaft  so  effectually 
that  it  never  could  be  found.  The  Indians  in  the  neighbor- 
hood were  questioned,  threatened,  promised  with  reward  if 
they  would  show  the  place,  but  all  in  vain ;  they  had  loved 
Salcedo  too  well  to  be  moved  by  any  thing.  They  continued 
obstinately  silent  even  under  the  torments  of  the  rack,  and 
to  this  day  the  place  of  Salcedo's  mine  remains  undiscov- 
ered. 


THE  summer  had  begun  before  I  left  Valparaiso,  and  not- 
withstanding it  was  the  time  of  the  trade  winds,  the  heat 
was  dreadfully  oppressive ;  it  took  me,  therefore,  although 
mounted  on  an  excellent  horse,  full  twenty-four  hours  to 
ride  to  the  capital,  San  Jago,  although  the  distance  from  the 
seaport  is  but  sixteen  miles. 

Owing  to  the  remarkable  transparency  of  the  atmosphere, 
all  objects  within  sight  appear  at  a  less  distance  than  they 
really  are.  When  I  looked  toward  the  gigantic  peaks  of 
the  long  chain  of  the  Cordilleras  it  seemed  to  me  that  I 
could  reach  them  in  an  hour  or  two,  and  yet  they  were,  in  a 
straight  line,  more  than  twelve  miles  distant.  This  illusion 
is  very  harrassing  to  travellers,  but  still  more  so  to  the 
horses ;  for  believing  the  places  will  be  reached  immediately, 
the  poor  animals  are  kept  at  a  pace  which  in  that  hot  cli- 
mate is  exhausting. 

San  Jago  presents  a  truly  beautiful  appearance  to  the> 
traveller's  view.  Built  against  the  rocky  wall  forming  one 
side  of  the  Andes,  it  is  surrounded  with  blooming  and  taste- 
fully laid  out  gardens  that  are  spread  out  like  a  dark  green 
carpet,  and  reaching  even  to  the  coast.  The  fruitful  earth 
is  everywhere  seen  carefully  cultivated,  and  the  beholder  is 

(122) 


SAN  JAGO.  123 

gratified  with  the  evidences  of  wealth  and  prosperity  that 
plainly  mark  a  happy  people  and  a  thriving  State. 

The  Alameda  or  mall  is  perfectly  charming,  and  presents 
a  lively  appearance  in  the  evening,  for  here  half  the  city 
assembles  to  enjoy  the  shade  and  fresh  air,  or  a  cheerful 
chat  with  friends  and  acquaintances.  Here  numbers  of  men 
mounted  on  noble  Andalusian  horses  were  seen  riding  about, 
their  picturesque  dress,  coats  of  grey,  or  gayer  colors  em- 
broidered with  silver,  and  broad  hats  ornamented  with  long 
tassels  or  a  feather,  gave  great  effect  to  the  scene ;  there 
wandering  in  the  broad  alleys,  groups  of  beautiful  women  in 
the  graceful  Spanish  dress,  laughed,  jested  or  flirted  with 
companions  or  lovers  ;  children  were  running  every  where, 
and  all  seemed  given  up  to  the  sweet  influence  of  the  sum- 
mer evening  and  unrestrained  enjoyment. 

Although  my  stay  in  this  charming  city  was  truly  plea- 
sant, I  dare  only  tarry  a  short  time  or  else  the  whole  plan 
of  my  journey  must  be  disarranged.  I  engaged  a  guide  and 
three  mules,  and  true  to  his  promise  to  be  ready  to  set  out 
early,  I  was  awakenened  on  the  appointed  morning  by  the 
clanking  of  his  large  spurs  upon  the  stairs.  Whilst  I  was 
dressing,  he  carried  down  my  portmanteau  in  which  I  had 
packed  some  clothing,  a  compass,  and  the  necessary  money 
for  the  journey ;  and  by  the  time  I  was  ready  had  it  fast- 
ened behind  the  saddles.  My  hostess  then  made  her  ap- 
pearance, a  kind  old  lady,  who  was  not  a  little  troubled  that 
I  would  undertake  a  journey  she  deemed  so  dangerous;  and 
as  she  gave  me  the  last  cup  of  chocolate,  she  said  with  many 


124  SAN  JAGO. 

tears :  "  It  grieves  me,  indeed,  my  dear  son,  that  you  are  so 
resolutely  bent  on  running  into  dangers  that  may  cost  you 
your  life ;  but  if  it  cannot  be  otherwise,  go,  and  may  God  be 
with  you." 

Moved  by  her  sincerity,  and  feeling  it  was  something, 
stranger  as  I  was,  to  have  her  good  will,  I  thanked  her  as 
well  as  I  was  able,  and  in  ten  minutes  afterwards  I  was  out- 
side the  gate  of  San  Jago. 

Immediately  on  leaving  the  city  we  entered  into  a  valley 
that  might  well  be  called  glorious,  for  it  was  not  only  highly 
cultivated  but  naturally  more  fruitful  than  any  place  I  had 
yet  seen,  and  presenting  the  loveliest  landscape,  it  is  said,  in 
America.  The  trees  bent  under  the  loads  of  fruit  until  their 
branches  touched  the  earth,  and  no  one  gathered  it,  for  plenty 
was  every  where  diffused.  The  road  through  the  middle  of 
this  valley  led  over  a  hanging  bridge  constructed  out  of  hides 
and  ropes,  which  in  the  firmness  of  its  structure  and  beauty 
of  design,  reminded  one  of  wire  bridges  of  Europe.  From 
this  point  the  ground  began  gradually  to  rise,  and  owing  to 
the  illusive  transparency  before  spoken  of,  one  could  almost 
believe  the  crests  of  the  Andes  could  be  touched  by  the 
hand,  whereas  the  real  distance  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
is  fourteen  miles. 

I  had  now  time  to  make  a  closer  acquaintance  with  my 
guide.  Antonio  was  a  handsome  fellow  of  five  and  twenty; 
his  face  and  all  his  movements  betokened  carelessness  and 
self-dependence.  We  were  scarcely  out  of  the  streets  of 
San  Jago  ere  he  requested  a  match  of  me  to  light  his  cigar, 


SAN  JAGO.  125 

and  then  riding  slowly  before  me  he  alternately  smoked  and 
sung  a  Spanish  song,  which  in  that  wild  romantic  region 
made  an  indescribable  impression  upon  me.  But  reckless 
as  he  now  seemed  as  he  sat  sideways  on  his  mule  and  hum- 
med his  ballad,  even  so  courageous,  as  I  afterwards  experi- 
enced, was  he  in  the  moment  of  danger,  and  exhibiting  a 
presence  of  mind  and  faithfulness  in  the  performance  of  his 
duty  which  at  this  time  I  could  not  have  imagined  and 
which  I  will  never  forget. 

After  a  five  hours'  ride  my  guide  suddenly  stopped  and 
turning  round  to  me  declared  it  was  time  for  the  mid-day 
halt.  After  we  had  spread  our  tent,  he  took  a  small  pie,  as 
he  called  it,  from  his  portmanteau,  and  with  true  Spanish 
courtesy  invited  me  to  a  participation  of  his  meal.  It  looked 
inviting  and  I  took  a  piece ;  but  no  sooner  had  I  tasted  it 
than  I  threw  it  as  far  from  me  as  I  could;  the  first  mouth- 
ful had  made  my  throat  to  burn  like  fire.  The  pastry  was 
made  of  two  pieces  of  bread  with  a  layer  of  the  strongest 
cayenne  pepper  between  them.  Antonio  laughed  loudly  when 
he  saw  my  grimaces  and  declared  this  to  be  part  of  his  daily 
food  and  that  he  could  not  comprehend  the  strange  taste  of 
the  gentleman  not  to  like  what  was  considered  so  palatable 
by  his  countryman.  I  sought  in  vain  to  get  rid  of  the  ef- 
fects of  the  pepper  by  swallowing  a  few  glasses  of  wine,  but 
it  would  not  do,  my  throat  smarted  as  if  I  had  swallowed  a 
live  coal  for  many  hours  afterwards. 


(Dstrirlj    Itmt. 


WE  had  prosecuted  our  wearisome  and  monotonous  jour- 
ney over  the  illimitable  plains  for  eight  days,  when  we 
reached  a  post-house,  which  promised  us  better  lodgings 
than  we  had  had  since  we  entered  upon  the  Pampas.  As 
soon  as  I  was  dismounted  from  my  horse,  I  prepared  to 
obey  the  irresistible  demands  of  my  stomach,  which  forcibly 
reminded  me  that  it  had  been  empty  since  morning.  I 
inquired  of  our  Gaucha  host,  "  what  was  to  be  had,"  if  his 
larder  was  well  provided,  and  received  for  answer  the  un- 
varying assurance,  "Every  thing  is  to  be  had — every  thing 
good."  In  order  to  find  out  the  true  meaning  of  these 
rather  mysterious  words,  I  penetrated  into  the  culinary 
region,  where  I  saw  a  whole  lamb,  rolled  up  in  its  skin  with 
the  wool  on,  roasting  in  the  ashes ;  this  dish  is  true  "  meat 
in  the  hide."  Singular  as  this  preparation  at  first  seemed 
to  me,  I  must  confess  it  was  uncommonly  juicy,  tender  and 
savory,  so  that  we  really  enjoyed  the  meal  with  a  relish  to 
which  we  had  long  been  strangers. 

As  we  arose  at  the  break  of  day,  and  prepared  for  our 
journey,  I  learned  that  the  Gauchas  were  going  on  an 
ostrich  hunt,  in  a  direction  but  a  short  distance  from  the 
road  by  which  our  journey  was  to  be  pursued. 

(126) 


e- 


Hunting  the  Ostrich. 


THE  OSTRICH  HUNT.  127 

As  I  was  an  entire  stranger  to  this  kind  of  sport,  I  begged 
the  courier  to  leave  me  with  the  hunters  for  this  day,  and 
promised  to  re-join  him  at  night  if  he  would  appoint  a  place 
of  meeting.  To  this  he  good  naturedly  consented ;  and  I 
parted  from  him  to  join  the  troop  of  half  savage  riders, 
who,  with  a  leader  and  many  unladen  horses,  set  forth  to 
hunt  those  birds  of  the  plain,  scarcely  less  wild  than  them- 
selves. 

We  had  not  ridden  far,  until  we  saw  a  little  brook  that, 
after  many  tortuous  windings,  was  lost  in  one  of  the  salt 
lakes.  The  ostriches  generally  seek  the  neighborhood  of 
water;  and  with  wild  joy  the  Gauchas  now  mounted  fresh 
horses,  in  expectation  that  the  sport  would  soon  begin.  My 
greatest  concern  was  to  know  what  to  do  with  the  bolas  they 
had  given  me,  a  long  rod  with  a  ball  on  one  end  of  it,  which 
I  did  not  at  all  know  how  to  handle.  Nevertheless  the 
ability  to  imitate,  which  is  practicable  by  all,  drove  away 
my  hesitation,  and  I  swung  my  bolas  over  my  head  as 
boldly  as  the  rest. 

All  at  once  we  heard  a  light  rustling  among  the  reeds 
that  fringed  the  margin  of  the  nearest  lake,  and  two  noble 
ostriches  emerged  from  the  covert.  The  moment  they  saw 
us,  they  took  to  flight,  running  with  inconceivable  speed. 
Their  appearance  was  the  signal  for  the  onset.  In  a  mo- 
ment each  horse  was  urged  to  his  swiftest  pace ;  and  the 
Gauchas,  bending  to  their  saddle  bows,  swung  their  bolas 
over  their  heads,  filling  the  air  with  shrill  cries.  It  seemed 
that  each  moment  would  bring  them  up  with  the  ostriches ; 


128  THE  OSTRICH   HUNT. 

but  the  swift-footed  birds,  with  outstretched  necks  and  ex- 
tended wings,  ran  with  the  velocity  of  the  wind.  A  few  of 
the  Gouchas,  who  were  better  mounted  than  most  of  their 
comrades,  several  times  got  within  twenty  steps  of  them ; 
but  just  as  they  were  about  to  throw  their  bullet-headed 
bolas,  the  wily  birds  started  to  one  side,  and  fled  in  a  differ- 
ent direction.  After  every  unsuccessful  throw,  the  hunts- 
man still  keeping  his  horse  at  a  full  run,  picked  up  his  bolas 
from  the  ground,  and  continued  the  chase. 

I  was  so  inconsiderate  as  to  keep  among  the  foremost  of 
the  pursuers;  and  in  spite  of  all  my  skill  as  a  practised 
rider,  as  the  ostrich  started  suddenly  before  my  horse,  and 
he  swerved  slightly  from  his  course,  I  lost  my  equipoise,  and 
fell  heavily  on  the  earth.  The  Gauchas  laughed  immoder- 
ately at  my  awkwardness;  but  self-love,  which  ever  mocks 
at  reason,  induced  me  to  re-mount  almost  immediately,  and 
press  forward  with  my  wild  companions  in  the  very  front  of 
the  chase,  which,  as  I  was  completely  ignorant  of,  was  to 
me  highly  dangerous. 

The  huntsmen  now  pursued  their  sport  with  unabated 
zeal ;  several  ostriches  were  killed  by  blows  from  the  bolas, 
but  still  many  showed  themselves  in  different  directions. 
The  Gauchas  divided  themselves  into  various  parties  to 
follow  them,  and  filled  the  air  with  their  cries.  Ofttimes 
when  the  crafty  birds  had  exhausted  all  their  cunning,  and 
completely  wearied,  found  escape  impossible,  they  turned 
round  on  their  pursuers,  and  ran  under  the  feet  of  the  hor- 
ses, flapping  and  beating  with  their  wings,  as  if  it  was  their 


THE  OSTKICH  HUNT.  129 

intent  to  frighten  them  off.  And  very  often,  too,  they 
accomplished  their  aim;  at  the  sudden  attack  the  horses 
started  to  one  side,  and  threvr  the  riders  from  their  saddles ; 
but  in  the  next  moment  some  of  the  others  came  up,  and 
irritated  by  the  cunning  and  resistance  of  the  poor  birds, 
pursued  the  chase  with  unrelenting  fury.  As  soon  as  the 
bolas  struck  the  leg  of  the  bird,  he  fell;  the  fortunate 
thrower  then  sprung  from  his  horse,  cut  off  the  wings  with 
his  knife,  and  hung  them  as  trophies  to  his  saddle. 

The  chase  ended,  not  for  want  of  game,  but  that  the 
horses  were  completely  exhausted.  When  the  first  heat  of 
their  running  is  over,  there  is  no  further  hope  of  their  over- 
taking the  swift  ostrich.  One  by  one  the  Gouchas  dropped 
off,  until  at  last  but  three  or  four  remained  to  follow,  with 
desperate  zeal,  one  of  the  birds  that  had  been  separated 
from  the  rest  of  the  herd.  Perfectly  exhausted,  the  poor 
creature  altered  its  course  every  moment,  and  at  last  ran 
Straight  towards  me. 

At  this  time,  an  unlucky  determination  to  secure  the  vic- 
tory came  into  my  head.  I  seized  my  bolas,  swung  it 
furiously  over  my  head,  threw  it,  and  in  the  next  instant, 
lay  sprawling  on  the  ground — not  the  poor  bird,  but  my 
horse,  on  whose  head  the  blow  I  intended  for  the  ostrich 
had  fallen.  So  I  had  gotten  two  falls  in  one  day — it  was 
quite  enough  for  me ;  and  now,  quite  convinced  of  my  utter 
incapacity  for  ostrich  hunting,  I  sprung  upon  another 
horse,  and  bade  my  lowly  hunting  companions  nn  eternal 
farewell. 

9 


130  THE  OSTKICH  HUNT. 

The  Gauchas  eat  the  eggs  of  the  ostrich,  and  the  upper 
part  of  the  breast ;  they  sell  the  feathers  in  Buenos  Ayres 
to  such  great  advantage  that,  to  a  skilful  hunter,  chasing  the 
ostrich  is  a  source  of  considerable  profit. 

According  to  my  agreement  with  Rodriguez  in  the  morn- 
ing, I  now  galloped  to  meet  the  caravan,  from  which  I  had 
separated  myself,  and  find  a  night's  lodging ;  I  had  no  diffi- 
culty to  rejoin  the  party,  but  the  night's  lodging — it  was 
on  the  thick  grass,  and  under  the  clear  star-gemmed  canopy 
of  heaven. 

When  I  awoke  in  the  morning,  to  my  great  terror,  I  saw 
a  snake  that  had  made  its  way  to  our  tent.  The  venomous 
reptile  had  most  likely  crawled  in,  in  the  night,  and  now 
lay  coiled  up  in  a  ring,  close  to  the  sleeping  courier.  I  has- 
tened to  greet  this  unbidden  guest  by  a  pistol  shot,  thereby 
shattering  his  head,  and  awakening  my  comrade.  He 
started  up,  and  still  more  than  half  asleep,  ran  off  with  all 
his  might,  believing  the  Indians  were  at  his  heels.  But  I 
soon  made  him  comprehend  the  cause  of  the  disturbance, 
and  quietly  saddling  his  horse,  we  soon  found  ourselves  once 
more  on  our  journey  to  Buenos  Ayres. 


tju 


AFTER  resting  for  a  few  hours  we  again  set  forth  toward 
the  mountain  peaks,  and  soon  struck  into  a  narrow  road 
that  at  every  progressive  step  hecame  more  steep.  Our 
third  mule,  intended  for  alternate  changing,  or  carrying  our 
baggage,  with  a  bell  hung  round  his  neck,  went  on  before 
as  our  leader,  and  without  troubling  ourselves  about  guiding 
those  we  rode,  we  suffered  them  to  follow  at  their  leisure. 
Around  us  rose  huge  and  rugged  walls  of  granite,  between 
which  appeared  at  intervals  small  patches  of  verdure,  or  a 
few  stunted  shrubs.  Many  small  cascades,  sparkling  in  the 
sun  like  silver,  fell  from  the  heights  into  the  ravines  below, 
where  foaming  into  rushing  mountain  streams,  frequently 
overflowed  our  path  and  made  the  way  hazardous  in  the 
extreme.  All  these,  and  the  wild  magnificence  of  the  whole 
rocky  region,  announced  that  we  were  fairly  beginning  to 
ascend  the  Cordilleras.  The  further  we  progressed  the 
more  steep  and  dangerous  the  path  became, — more  dreary 
and  desolate  the  country — and  at  every  onward  step  some 
new  phase  of  savage  grandeur  or  scene  of  gloomy  horror 
would  present  itself. 

An  inexpressible  feeling  of  dread  and  reverential  awe 
overpowered  me ;  my  heart  was  oppressed — my  breathing 

(131) 


132  ASCENDING   THE  ANDES. 

painful  and  irregular,  and  my  vision  clouded.  And  yet, 
with  sensations  like  these,  and  surrounded  by  images  of 
such  wonderful  influence,  it  was  necessary  to  maintain  the 
utmost  composure  and  presence  of  mind, — every  movement 
of  the  mules  required  an  undivided  attention,  for  every 
deviation  from  the  narrow  path  was  attended  with  danger, 
and  a  false  step  was  certain  death.  One  irregular  move- 
ment of  the  animal  would  bring  him  to  the  verge  of  the  pre- 
cipice, and  one  more  would  precipitate  him  with  his  luckless 
rider  into  the  fathomless  abyss  that  lay  below. 

Sure-footed  and  cautiously,  with  stretched-out  necks  and 
wide-spread  nostrils,  the  sagacious  animals  strained  pain- 
fully on  the  upward  path,  clambering  over  spots  seemingly 
incalculable,  and  with  astonishing  patience  and  dexterity 
following  all  its  tortuous  windings.  Panting  and  breath- 
less, they  stopped  from  time  to  time  to  rest,  but  as  soon  as 
they  had  recovered  from  the  temporary  weariness  they  again 
set  forward,  without  any  urging  from  their  riders.  No  one 
who  has  not  seen  the  mules  of  the  Cordilleras,  can  have  any 
idea  of  the  wonderful  sagacity  they  possess.  With  incredi- 
ble activity,  cautiousness  and  deliberation,  they  choose  the 
safest  steps  on  the  narrow  road,  which  often  runs  along  a 
precipice  from  six  to  eight  hundred  feet  in  depth,  while  on 
the  other  side  rise  walls  of  perpendicular  rock,  so  that  not 
seldom  the  poor  laden  mule,  as  he  passes  over  the  narrow 
way,  often  not  more  than  three  or  four  feet  wide,  is  pressed 
against  it.  This  path  is  principally  spread  with  loose 
stones  of  slate,  and  from  the  aptness  to  give  way  under  the 


ASCENDING    THE   ANDES.  133 

feet  of  the  animal,  makes  the  procedure  as  wearisome  as  the 
rough  and  sudden  windings  are  dangerous. 

In  these  latitudes  the  twilight  is  very  short,  for  scarcely 
has  the  last  border  of  the  sun's  disk  disappeared  below  the 
horizon  until  it  is  night.  But  if  the  traveller  in  these  tro- 
pical climes  regrets  the  lovely  and  soothing  influence  of  the 
interval  between  sunset  and  darkness,  as  seen  in  the  beauty 
of  a  Spanish  or  Italian  evening,  he  is  rewarded  for  all  he 
has  lost  by  the  beauty  of  the  night ;  nothing  in  Europe  can 
equal  it.  The  moon  sheds  a  soft  silvery  light  on  the  dark 
and  rugged  points  that  stand  like  tall  towers  above  the  way, 
and  it  is  too  dangerous,  inviting  as  are  her  beams  and  the 
cooler  air,  to  journey  after  sunset  among  the  winding 
labyrinths  of  the  Andes. 

After  toiling  up  a  peculiarly  steep  ascent,  we  reached  a 
little  plain,  or  rather  a  level  spot,  which  seemed  to  offer  a 
resting  place  before  attempting  to  scale  the  yet  steeper 
acclivity  that  lay  beyond  it.  Antonio  declared  his  inten- 
tion of  making  this  our  place  of  bivouac,  and  accordingly 
dismounted,  and  with  great  industry  began  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  pitching  our  tent. 

I  was  not  particularly  pleased  with  this  decision,  for  there 
were  neither  bushes  nor  grass  for  our  mules ;  but  to  my 
objections  my  conductor  opposed  his  determination  to  pass 
the  night  there,  partly  because  he  feared  we  might  stray, 
and  partly  because  he  did  not  wish  to  expose  his  weary 
mules  to  the  pernicious  influence  of  the  moon. 

I  acknowledged  the  legitimacy  of  the  first  reason,  but  all 


134  ASCENDING  THE   ANDES. 

attempts  to  combat  his  firm  belief  in  the  baleful  influence  of 
the  moon  on  animals  were  in  vain.  As  I  could  do  nothing 
better,  I  therefore  gave  in  to  his  proposal  to  remain  where 
we  were.  The  bridles  were  taken  off  the  mules,  the  saddles 
and  cushions  turned  up  against  the  rocks,  and  after  eating 
our  very  frugal  supper,  consisting  of  some  bread  and  dried 
figs,  we  smoked  our  cigars,  aud  laid  ourselves  down  on  a 
hard  bed  of  moss  and  granite.  Sleep,  the  great  comforter 
in  all  troubles,  soon  sealed  our  weary  eyelids. 

Scarcely  had  the  first  rays  of  the  morning  broke  on  the 
cloud-covered  Cordilleras,  than  Antonio  was  up  and  moving. 
I  would  have  followed  his  example,  but  all  my  efforts  to  do 
so  were  fruitless.  Neither  the  grandeur  of  nature,  the 
mighty  mother,  as  here  displayed  every  where  around  me, 
nor  the  harmonious  song  of  the  birds,  that  chanted  their 
matin  to  the  morning  from  the  valley  below,  nor  even  the 
necessity  there  was  to  make  use  of  every  moment  of  time, 
could  enable  me  to  burst  from  the  leaden  chains,  or  con- 
quer the  extreme  drowsiness  by  which  I  was  overpowered, 
and  which  was  caused  by  the  unwonted  exertions  of  yester- 
day, making  the  hours  allotted  to  sleep  too  few. 

At  length  I  mustered  up  sufficient  resolution,  and  without 
waiting  to  reason  with  myself,  whether  or  not  I  had  slept 
enough,  I  started  up,  and  running  to  a  little  brook  that 
flowed  down  from  a  neighboring  glacier,  I  plunged  my  whole 
head  into  the  cold  water.  Such  an  ablution  as  this  creates 
at  the  time  anything  but  a  pleasant  feeling — it  is,  however, 
strengthening  and  healthful;  the  very  best  remedy  for  fatigue 


ASCENDING    THE    ANDES.  135 

and  drowsiness.  When  thus  refreshed  I  returned  to  my 
guide.  I  found,  to  my  great  joy,  that  he  had  kindled  a  fire, 
over  which  he  was  cooking  some  chocolate,  which  was  truly 
welcomed  by  my  empty  stomach. 

Immediately  after  breakfast  we  resumed  our  journey. 
The  morning  was  raw  and  cold — the  ascent  very  laborious, 
and  nearly  at  every  step,  lumps  of  clay  or  stones  rolled 
down  from  the  heights  above.  Out  of  compassion  for  my 
mule,  who  seemed  to  toil  painfully  over  the  rough  crooked 
path,  I  dismounted  and  clambered  up  a  steep  acclivity ;  but 
when  wearied  with  the  great  effort  I  had  made,  I  would  have 
once  more  seated  myself  in  the  saddle,  the  ungrateful  animal 
snorted,  laid  back  his  ears,  and  began  to  trot  at  the  very 
moment  I  had  placed  my  left  foot  in  the  stirrup.  My  situ- 
ation, on  a  narrow  path,  close  by  a  steep  precipice,  was 
anything  but  enviable.  The  malicious  animal  was  evidently 
determined  to  throw  me,  and,  at  last,  succeeded  so  well  that 
I  fell  to  the  earth,  with  the  pleasant  prospect  of  rolling  from 
one  precipice  to  another.  Antonio  shook  his  sides  with 
laughter,  as  he  threw  his  lasso  over  me  to  prevent  my  falling 
any  lower.  Anger  gave  me  strength ;  I  gathered  myself 
up,  ran  after  my  mule,  and  reaching  him  at  last,  swung 
myself,  in  spite  of  all  his  resistance,  into  the  saddle.  Firmly 
seated  on  his  back,  I  could  now  laugh  over  the  occurrence ; 
but  between  the  feeling  caused  by  the  sharp  points  of  the 
rock  where  I  fell,  and  the  bottomless  abyss  that  lay  below 
it,  the  thing  in  reality  was  no  jest.  About  midway  we 
reached  one  of  the  small  chalets,  which  are  built  for  the 


136  THE   SNOW   REGION. 

protection  of  travellers  against  the  sudden  snow  storms  that 
are  always  occurring  in  this  lofty  region.  Here  we  halted 
for  our  noontide  rest,  and  after  a  light  meal  and  short  siesta, 
we  again  set  forward  on  our  further  progress  to  scale  the  sum- 
mit. The  way  became  still  more  perplexing,  and  number- 
less bones  and  carcases  of  animals,  seen  all  along  the  road, 
told  plainly  of  the  danger  which  threatened  the  traveller  in 
this  inhospitable  region. 


WE  now  came  upon  the  boundary  claimed  from  primor- 
dial times  by  the  snows,  as  peculiarly  their  own.  The  cold 
increased  very  sensibly  as  we  advanced,  and  we  could  dis- 
tinguish the  elevation  of  the  passes,  but  on  what  remained 
of  this  day,  we  could  not  hope  to  make  their  ascent ;  the 
evening  was  coming  on,  and  our  mules  were  tired.  Antonio 
expressed  his  determination  of  passing  the  night  at  the  next 
chalet,  and  we  reached  it  at  last,  ourselves  as  much  worn 
out  as  the  poor  animals  we  rode.  My  cheerful  guide, 
however,  according  to  his  constant  custom,  at  once  set 
about  seeking  for  some  dry  twigs  —  no  easy  matter,  for 
they  are  only  to  be  found  in  the  clefts  of  the  rocks — and 
soon  a  bright  fire  was  blazing  beneath  our  modest  kettle. 
Whilst  the  crackling  flame  lent  warmth  and  cheerfulness, 


THE   SNOW  REGION.  137 

and  the  kettle,  as  it  sung  above  it,  promised  refreshment,  I 
took  a  survey  of  the  house  where  we  found  an  asylum,  which, 
dreary  as  it  looked,  was  most  gratefully  appreciated  by  our- 
selves. It  was  built  of  baked  clay  and  mountain  stones, 
from  ten  to  twelve  feet  high,  with  thick  walls,  in  which  were 
small  crevices  to  serve  in  place  of  windows,  and  admitted 
the  light  but  faintly. 

Even  now,  in  the  heat  of  summer,  the  dreary  twilight  that 
reigned  within  reminded  me  of  a  prison ;  what  then  must  it 
be  in  winter,  when  the  snow  storms  sweep  over  this  inhos- 
pitable desert,  and  the  frightful  avalanche  threatens  every 
moment  to  overwhelm.  Antonio  looked  at  me  as  if  he  read 
my  thoughts,  and  putting  on  a  more  solemn  face  than  I 
could  have  believed  it  possible  for  him  to  wear,  he  approached 
to  where  I  sat  beside  the  fire ;  taking  a  seat  near  me,  he 
thus  began : 

"  Did  you  ever  hear,  sir,  of  the  sad  event  that  happened 
here  about  four  years  ago  ?  In  the  place  where  we  now  are 
sheltered,  eight  men  died  of  hunger.  It  was  in  winter  that 
a  party  of  merchants  from  Buenos  Ayres  travelled  over  the 
Cordilleras,  leaving  Mondega  to  go  to  San  Jago.  Their 
I  business  was  sorely  pressing,  and  against  the  advice  of  men 
t  the  most  experienced  in  these  matters,  they  resolved  to 
attempt  the  dangerous  journey.  Every  thing  went  on  well 
enough  until  they  reached  this  region,  but  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  this  hut  they  were  overtaken  by  a  fearful  snow 
storm.  No  help  was  to  be  expected  from  any  one  in  these 
desert  mountains,  and  they  could  do  nothing  better  than  to 


138  THE  SNOW  REGION. 

remain  in  this  poor  hut,  and  wait  for  better  weather.  Their 
store  of  provision  was  soon  exhausted,  cold  and  hunger 
pressed  them  sorely  ;  they  were  obliged  to  kill  their  mules, 
and  cook  the  flesh  with  the  wood  of  the  door,  for  the  snow 
covering  every  spot,  no  fuel  was  to  be  had.  This,  their  last 
means  of  preserving  life,  was  also  their  death  warrant.  The 
snow  now  drifted  without  hindrance  inside  the  hut,  and 
they  perished,  without  one  being  spared  to  tell  the  sad  tale 
of  what  they  suffered  ere  released  by  death.  The  first 
Chilian  courier  that  passed  over  the  Cordilleras  in  the 
beginning  of  spring,  found  all  as  I  have  related — the  eight 
corpses,  which  still  bore  the  marks  of  the  frightful  combat 
they  had  had  with  torment  and  death.  The  bones  of  the 
mules  are  still  lying  near  the  house,  as  you  may  see  if  you 
have  a  mind."  Owing  to  the  absence  of  moisture  in  this 
climate,  it  is  astonishing  to  see  in  what  a  state  of  preserva- 
tion dead  bodies  remain.  A  traveller  says  :  "  On  examining 
the  carcases  of  some  mules  that  looked  as  if  they  had  only 
died  on  the  preceding  day,  the  skin  seemed  as  if  it  were 
baked,  but  adhered  to  the  bones,  leaving  a  mere  skeleton 
covered  with  skin  so  very  light  that  I  could  with  ease  lift  up 
any  one  of  them  in  my  arms." 

With  looks  gathering  additional  sadness  as  he  proceeded 
in  the  relation,  Antonio  told  of  many  other  occurrences,  not 
less  gloomy  than  the  last,  which  had  happened  quite  lately 
in  this  portion  of  the  Andes.  All  these  disasters  harmo- 
nizing with  the  first,  gave  fuller  force  to  the  frightful  con- 
viction that,  in  case  of  disaster,  no  help  was  to  be  obtained 


THE    SNOW    REGION.  139 

here,  and  that  the  traveller,  after  a  journey  of  three  or  four 
days,  distant  from  any  human  dwelling,  could,  happen  what 
might,  have  any  hope  of  success  from  a  fellow  being.  The 
sound  of  the  bell,  the  encouraging  sight  of  the  hospitable 
monastery,  the  benevolent  monk  of  the  Alps,  with  his  com- 
forts and  cordials, — offered  no  cheering  in  this  dreary  spot ; 
no  sound  or  prospect  like  these  revived  the  embers  of 
expiring  hope.  Although  it  was  in  the  midst  of  summer, 
and  I  had  neither  snow  storm  nor  avalanche  to  fear,  I  must 
confess  that  the  night  was  pretty  far  spent  before  I  could 
close  my  eyes ;  my  imagination  dwelt  incessantly  on  the 
former  fated  occupants  of  this  hut,  and  painted  their  tor- 
ments with  a  pencil  dipped  in  horror.  At  length  weariness 
asserted  its  power  and  I  slept,  but  frightful  visions  floated 
round  me,  robbing  the  "  sweet  restorer  "  of  half  his  renova- 
ting influence. 

We  arose  early  the  following  morning,  in  order  to  ascend 
the  last  and  highest  peak.  On  the  Chilian  side  of  the  Andes 
the  limit  of  the  snow  region  extends  farther  than  on  the 
eastern  slope,  and  as  on  the  highest  point  of  the  pass  where 
the  temperature  is  changed  by  the  elevation,  there  is  there- 
fore, in  the  heat  of  summer,  very  often  no  snow  to  be  seen. 
This  is  is  not  wonderful,  for  on  the  Himalayas  in  India, 
which  lay  within  the  same  latitude,  the  summits  are  found 
perfectly  bare  at  an  elevation  of  twenty  thousand  feet ;  and 
an  English  traveller  tells  us  he  has  himself  seen  the  tops  of 
several  mountains  that  were  entirely  free  from  snow,  at  a 


140  THE   SNOW   REGION. 

height,  according  to  his  own  measurement,  of  twenty-three 
thousand  feet. 

As  we  were  about  to  begin  the  ascent  of  the  highest  pass, 
for  greater  security,  I  mounted  the  strongest  mule.  The 
acclivity  was  so  steep  that  we  were  obliged  to  hold  by  the 
manes  of  the  animals  we  rode,  to  keep  ourselves  from  fall- 
ing, and  the  windings  round  the  different  crags  were  so  sud- 
den and  laborious,  that  the  poor  creatures  seemed  more 
than  once  on  the  point  of  tumbling  head-foremost  over  the 
precipice,  but  with  astonishing  sagacity  they  would  stop  to 
take  breath,  and  then,  without  urging,  patiently  set  forward 
once  more.  After  two  hours  of  the  most  painful  exer- 
tion, we  reached  the  highest  point  of  the  pass  called  La 
Cumbre,  and  there  a  panorama  of  all  that  was  sublime, 
glowing  and  beautiful  in  nature,  spread  itself  before  us, 
fully  indemnifying  us  for  all  we  had  suffered  in  the  ascent. 
All  the  peaks  which,  seen  two  days  before  from  the  valley 
below,  and  seemed  inaccessible,  now  lay  at  our  feet  crowned 
with  light  and  the  storm  clouds,  whose  muttered  thunder 
had  many  times  threatened  our  heads  as  we  journeyed,  now 
floated  calmly  along  the  cliffs  that  were  far  below  the  spot 
from  whence  we  surveyed  the  glorious  scene. 

A  number  of  volcanoes,  pouring  out  their  columns  of  dark 
smoke,  arose  amid  the  white  peaks  of  those  wondrous  moun- 
tains which  speak  the  greatness  of  Creation,  and  added  to 
the  magnificent  grandeur  of  the  scene.  Although  I 
remained  for  a  long  time  wrapt  in  astonishment  as  I  sur- 
veyed this  glorious  prospect,  I  yet  recollected  one  other 


THE  DESCENT.  141 

point  of  the  Andes  which  exceeds  even  this ;  a  gorge  of  the 
Cordilleras,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Quito,  from  whence  one 
looks  down  on  the  lovely  valley  of  Chillo.  Here  the  eye 
wanders  over  the  plain  which  forms  the  richest  belt  of  lux- 
uriant vegetation  in  all  the  tropical  world, — where  lofty 
palm  trees,  fields  of  sugar  cane,  and  the  odorous  vanilla  are 
blooming,  to  the  wilder  regions  where  Alpine  plants  rear 
their  hardy  heads  amid  eternal  snows,  and  lofty  glaciers 
intermingle  with  smoking  volcanoes,  that  pour  out  streams 
of  glowing  lava  between  the  snow-crowned  peaks ;  all  tell- 
ing the  wonders  of  creation,  and  exhibiting  the  power  of  the 
Mighty  Hand,  as  every  where  displayed  in  the  simpler 
beauties  as  well  as  the  stern  and  sublime  features  of  nature. 


PAINFUL  and  toilsome  as  was  our  experience  of  the  ascent 
of  the  Cordilleras,  we  found  it  infinitely  more  so  in  descend- 
ing. The  mules  mostly  tread  one  in  the  footsteps  of  the 
other,  and  owing  to  this  peculiarity,  deep  holes  are  made  in 
the  snow,  which  render  the  way  precarious  and  difficult. 
The  sufferings  of  the  poor  animals,  compelled  to  carry  heavy 
burdens  up  these  wearisome  paths,  was  fully  attested  by  the 
spots  of  blood  seen  in  many  places,  contrasting  with  the 
white  snow.  One  of  our  mules  stepping  on  a  sharp  point 


142  THE   DESCENT. 

of  rock,  concealed  by  the  snow,  had  severely  wounded  his 
foot ;  we  therefore  held  it  expedient  to  get  on  as  fast  as 
possible  to  the  nearest  cabin,  in  order  to  rest  and  bind  up 
the  wound.  This  was  the  more  necessary  as,  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  we  had  to  proceed  over  some  of  the  most  dan- 
gerous passes  in  the  whole  range  of  the  Andes ;  the  so-called 
Cow-stream,  for  instance,  being  a  place  of  terror  to  the 
traveller,  and  a  source  of  perplexity  to  the  guide. 

The  water  ofttimes  swells  so  suddenly,  that  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  cross  it,  and  the  parties  are  obliged  to  wait  four  or 
five  days  until  they  subside  sufficiently  to  make  the  advance 
safe.  Although  the  mules  are  accustomed  to  battle  with 
such  difficulties,  it  is  necessary  to  urge  them  by  the  spur  or 
enter  the  brook,  where  often  bits  of  rock  and  loose  stones 
are  driven  against  them  by  the  rushing  force  of  the  current. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  dreaded  spot,  Antonio  dismounted 
from  his  mule,  and  having  partly  undressed  himself,  and 
waded  half  way  into  the  ford  we  were  about  to  cross,  he 
threw  his  lasso  over  the  head  of  his  mule,  and  calling  the 
others  by  their  names,  endeavored  to  drive  them  into  the 
stream.  The  mule  that  led  the  van  refused  obedience — in 
spite  of  all  our  shouting,  and  the  stones  Antonio  threw 
at  him,  the  stubborn  animal  would  not  venture  into  the 
water.  The  same  resistance  on  the  part  of  all  continued 
for  a  short  time,  when,  to  make  an  end  of  the  matter,  I 
struck  my  spurs  into  the  sides  of  the  one  I  rode,  determined 
to  urge  his  advance.  This  was  not  without  effect.  Although 
I  drew  up  my  feet  as  quickly  as  I  could,  they  were  com- 


THE  DESCENT.  143 

pletely  wet  by  the  sudden  plunge  made  by  the  animal ;  I 
found  myself  in  the  middle  of  the  brook. 

Without  other  inconvenience  than  this  wetting,  I  gained 
the  opposite  bank,  from  whence  I  sought  to  assist  the 
wounded  mule  by  throwing  him  my  lasso.  What  I  feared 
now  really  happened.  Scarcely  had  the  poor  creature 
stepped  into  the  stream,  than  a  large  stone,  rolled  onward 
by  the  force  of  the  current,  struck  against  his  wounded  foot; 
he  lost  his  equipoise,  began  to  stagger,  and,  although  he 
tried  to  recover  his  footing  by  every  means  in  his  power,  he 
was  in  a  fair  way  of  being  swept  off  by  the  dashing  flood. 
Antonio  had  watched  his  every  movement  with  anxious 
looks.  In  the  critical  moment,  with  sure  and  practised 
hand,  he  threw  his  lasso  over  the  animal's  head,  and  fasten- 
ing the  end  of  it  to  a  firm  rock  on  the  bank,  without  giving 
a  thought  to  the  danger  he  was  incurring,  dashed  into 
the  brook  to  attempt  the  rescue  of  the  mule.  The  water 
was  up  as  high  as  his  breast,  and  he  might  easily  have 
drowned ;  but  unheeding  all  precaution  for  his  own  safety, 
all  his  care  was  for  the  deliverance  of  his  mule.  After  the 
most  strenuous  exertions,  he  succeeded  in  setting  him  on  his 
legs  again.  And  now  the  poor  animal,  a  perfect  model  of 
patience  and  practised  dexterity,  forced  his  way  through  the 
current,  placed  himself  beside  his  long-eared  comrades,  and 
quietly  shook  off  the  water  that  dripped  from  his  mane — 
the  blood,  in  the  meantime,  streaming  from  his  wounded 
foot. 

I  pursued  my  way  forward,  leaving  Antonio  to  dress  him- 

> 


144  THE  DESCENT. 

self  and  follow.     In  half  an  hour  he  overtook  me ;  he  was 
as  cheerful  as  though  no  difficulty  had  occurred,  and  appa- 
rently well  pleased  with  himself,  smoked  his  cigar,  sung  a 
merry  song,  and  said,  with  a  smile  of  sly  meaning,  that  be- 
fore evening  we  should  have  seen  something  worth  while. 
And,  indeed,  some  time  before  nightfall,  we  reached  a  pecu- 
liarly steep  precipice — along  which  ran  a  more  narrow  path 
than  we  had  yet  traversed,  for  nearly  three  hundred  yards. 
The  cliffs  rose  almost  perpendicularly  above  our  heads,  and 
the  waters  rushed  down  with  fearful  velocity  from  the  heights, 
bringing  with  them  large  lumps  of  earth,  and  loose  masses 
of  rock.      Huge   blocks  of  granite  hung  over  our  heads 
threateningly,  and  ready  to  be  dislodged  at  the  slightest 
disturbance.    Along  this  dizzy  precipice,  the  path  was  so  nar- 
row that,  whilst  on  one  side  the  shoulder  of  the  rider  nearly 
touched  the  rocky  wall,  on  the  other  his  feet  hung  over  the 
foaming  torrent — above  which  this  fearful  precipice  arose. 
We  exchanged  but  few  words  until  after  we  had  passed 
this  dangerous  place,  when  Antonio,  assuming  a  look  of 
importance,  remarked   that  the  pass  was  called  the  cow's 
stairs,  and  that  it  was  a  perilous  spot  for  mules  heavily  laden. 
In  the  passage  of  a  very  large  caravan,  several  mules  were 
lost.     Frightened  at  the  wild  raging  torrent,  they  pressed 
closely  to  the  wall  of  rocks,  and  their  burdens  pushing  them 
once  more  to  the  projection,  they  lost  their  equilibrium,  and 
were  precipitated  into  the  flood  below.     It  is  said  that  in 
the  last  twenty  years,  more  than  six  hundred  mules  have 
been  lost  in  this  way. 


THE  DESCENT.  145 

Antonio  had  told  me  all  this  before  we  reached  the  dan- 
gerous spot,  at  the  same  time  advising  me  to  throw  the  bri- 
dle on  the  mule's  neck,  and  let  him  take  his  own  course.  I 
obeyed  his  counsel,  and  I  had  no  reason  to  regret  having 
done  so.  The  prudent  animal,  with  outstretched  neck  and 
dilated  nostrils,  sought  his  way  over  the  rugged  pass  as 
carefully  as  could  have  been  done  by  reasoning  man,  and 
bore  me  in  safety  over  the  dreaded  and  dangerous  cow 
stairs. 

On  this  day  we  passed  over  several  almost  inaccessible 
points  of  the  Cordilleras,  and  formed  our  bivouac  at  Upsa- 
lata,  which  lies  in  a  valley  where  a  small  silver  mine  is  worked, 
and  seems  to  form  the  foundation  of  this  the  principal  chain 
of  the  Andes.  Never  did  I  see  any  where  in  all  my  wide 
journeyings,  such  a  dreary,  barren  spot.  Some  miners 
whom  I  met,  told  me  that  no  rain  had  fallen  here  for  two 
years.  With  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  I  was  able  to  procure 
a  little  grass  for  our  exhausted  mules,  and  a  half-starved  kid 
for  ourselves — for  which  I  had  to  pay  nearly  their  own 
weight  in  gold. 

We  set  out  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  in  order  to 
reach  the  warm  baths  of  Vincenza,  where  we  intended  pas- 
sing the  night.  We  had  one  or  two  steep  hills  still  to  en-k 
counter;  but  Antonia  assured  me  they  were  the  last  hin- 
drances— being  the  dividing  line  between  the  Cordilleras 
region  and  the  Pampas.  After  a  six  hours'  ride,  we  reached 
the  summit  of  the  highest,  which  looked  like  a  dwarf  in 
comparison  with  the  gigantic  peaks,  with  their  inaccessible 
10 


146  THE   DESCENT. 

walls  of  rock  and  ice,  that  lay  like  a  frowning  bulwark  of 
nature's  own  forming  behind  us. 

We  stopped  on  this  peak  for  a  few  moments,  and  here 
the  prospect  opened  upon  the  immeasurable  range  of  the 
Pampas.  In  the  first  moment  one  believes  themselves  to  be 
looking  on  the  ocean,  for  blinded  by  the  magical  effect  of 
the  aerial  transparency  and  the  boundless  horizon,  the  wan- 
derer can  but  dimly  discern  the  distant  city  of  Mendaza,  or 
distinguish  the  green  shadowing  of  the  Pampas'  vegetation, 
from  the  dark  and  level  surface  of  the  sea. 

One  last  steep  ascent,  which  our  mules  successfully  climbed, 
and  we  were  at  Vicenza,  once  more  enjoying  the  comforts 
of  human  society,  refreshing  baths  and  nourishing  food,  to- 
gether with  the  real  luxury  of  a  good  bed, — all  these  being 
productive  of  a  night  of  sound  sleep.  On  the  following  day, 
instead  of  the  chilly  and  oppressive  air  of  the  Andes,  we 
were  visited  by  the  softest,  blandest  zephyrs.  With  feelings 
of  real  bliss  we  inhaled  the  balmy  odors  that  floated  from  the 
verdant  and  flowery  plains  of  the  Pampas,  and  our  hearts 
that  for  a  long  time  had  seemed  bound  with  a  circlet  of  ice, 
now  opened,  and  gradually  expanded  before  the  sweet  influ- 
ences of  benevolent  nature. 

By  mid-day  we  reached  Mendaza.  In  vain  would  I  at- 
tempt to  paint  the  delightful  emotions  one  must  experience 
on  exchanging  the  prospect  of  the  rugged  crags  and  dreary 
ice  fields  of  the  inhospitable  Andes,  where  we  had  been  so 
long,  for  the  glowing  and  glorious  landscape  which  now  sur- 
rounded us.  None  but  those  who  have  wandered  in  such 


THE   DESCENT.  147 

savage  scenes,  or  passed  many  monotonous  weeks  on  ship- 
board, can  imagine  it.  But  not  more  invigorating  to  me  was 
the  intercourse  with  refined  and  intelligent  society,  and  the 
enjoyment  of  the  conveniences  of  European  life  to  which, 
at  this  time,  I  had  for  many  weeks  been  a  stranger. 


Campus. 


I  FOUND  Mendaza  so  pleasant  that  I  should  most  likely 
have  lingered  there  for  a  long  time,  had  not  the  royal 
courier  of  Chili  disturbed  me  from  the  tranquil  rest  I  was 
BO  well  disposed  to  take.  As  he  too  was  going  to  Buenoa 
Ayres,  and  it  was  every  way  desirable  I  should  perform  the 
long  monotonous  journey  under  his  safe  escort,  I  now  bade 
adieu  to  my  late  pleasant  guide,  the  faithful  Antonio, 
mounted  a  fleet  horse,  and  with  the  courier  for  my  compan- 
ion, dashed  forth  in  a  gallop  over  the  wide  plains. 

The  Pampas  lay  in  all  their  grandeur  of  illimitable  ex- 
panse before  me,  stretching  from  the  La  Plata,  like  a  smooth 
sea,  to  the  foot  of  the  Cordilleras,  over  a  space  of  nine  hun- 
dred miles,  and  to  the  north  and  south,  as  calculated  by 
Miers,  at  no  less  than  130,000  square  miles.  The  eye  rests 
upon  a  level  flat,  in  some  parts  covered  with  grass  and 
clover,  in  others  overgrown  with  thistles.  Here  a  rast  extent 
of  plain,  the  monotony  of  which,  is  unrelieved  by  any  forest 
whose  shade  would  invite  the  traveller  to  repose ;  there  a 
few  miserable  hovels  tell  of  the  neighborhood  of  man ;  but 
no  cultivated  fields  give  evidence  of  industry  or  thrift ;  no 
bush  nor  tree  shelter  those  dwellings  from  the  noontide  heat 
or  give  evidence  of  any  advance  from  primitive  barbarism. 

£1481 


THE  PAMPAS.  149 

Millions  of  horses  find  grazing  on  those  vast  prairies ;  some 
of  which  belong  to  the  inhabitants,  others  roam  about  in 
primitive  wildness  in  troops  of  from  ten  to  twenty  thousand. 
Horned  cattle  are  found  in  still  greater  numbers ;  for  al- 
though much  diminished  by  the  demand  occasioned  by  the 
wasting  effect  of  the  Revolution,  they  are  still  reckoned  to 
consist  of  several  millions. 

The  dwellers  on  the  Pampas  are  either  Spanish  herdsmen 
called  Gauchas,  or  the  different  tribes  of  native  Indians. 
The  Gaucha  spends  half  of  his  life  on  horseback ;  at  the  age 
of  six  years  he  is  an  expert  rider,  and  throws  his  lasso  with 
unerring  hand.  Growing  up  to  manhood  amongst  his  herds^ 
he  is  as  indifferent  to  the  comforts  and  conveniences  of 
civilized  life  as  he  is  ignorant  of  all  the  noble  emotions  by 
which  the  soul  of  man  is  swayed.  The  wild  steppe  is  his 
constant  home,  the  grassy  hillock  his  bed,  and  the  skeleton 
head  of  some  slain  horse  his  only  pillow.  Hfe  household 
goods  accord  with  his  savage  life  and  the  miserable  hut  he 
calls  his  own ;  the  hides  of  slaughtered  cattle  serving  for 
doors,  window-shutters  and  beds,  the  horns  of  oxen  forming 
cups  and  drinking  vessels  for  his  table. 

Among  many  vices,  the  principal  of  which  is  gambling 
and  drunkenness,  the  Gaucha  also  possesses  some  virtues, 
and  not  a  few  good  qualities ;  and  his  hospitality  is  un- 
bounded and  disinterested. 

In  passing  over  the  Pampas  the  traveller  is  accompanied 
by  a  Gaucha,  who  conducts  him  from  one  station  to  another, 
driving  a  number  of  unequipped  horses  before  him.  Should 


150  THE  PAMPAS. 

the  one  on  which  he  gallops  across  these  plains  (for  no 
other  gait  is  known  here)  grow  weary,  his  Nomadic  conduc- 
tor at  once  throws  his  lasso  over  the  head  of  another,  and 
removing  the  saddle  from  the  first,  the  rider  is  instantly 
mounted  and  they  set  off  at  the  same  fleet  pace  as  before. 
We  had  ridden  in  this  manner  for  five  or  six  hours,  when 
our  eyes  were  greeted  by  the  sight  of  some  tall  poplars  and 
a  spot  of  cultivated  ground  lying  at  a  short  distance.  My 
guide  announced  this  to  be  the  post-station,  and  on  coming  up 
more  closely,  I  perceived  a  miserable  cabaret  with  a  number 
of  Gauchas  sitting  or  lying  about  the  door  steps.  They 
bestowed  not  the  slightest  mark  of  attention  on  our  arrival, 
but  continued  to  smoke  and  talk  Spanish,  scarcely  giving  a 
glance  to  our  movements.  We  enquired  whether  horses 
were  to  be  had ;  one  of  the  company  pointed,  without  speak- 
ing, to  a  man,  whom  from  the  movement  I  supposed  was  the 
postmaster.  Rodriguez,  for  that  was  the  name  of  the  courier, 
dismounted,  and  without  bestowing  any  more  notice  on  the 
lazy  loungers  than  they  did  on  ourselves,  went  up  to  the  so- 
called  postmaster,  and  said  with  a  courteous  manner  and 
good  natured  smile : 

"  Quickly,  quickly,  my  good  friend ;  I  am  in  great 
haste." 

All  traces  of  laziness  now  vanished  from  the  postmaster ; 
in  a  moment  he  was  in  the  saddle,  ready  to  go  after  his 
horses,  and  in  an  incredibly  short  time  all  was  ready.  This 
was  a  matter  of  surprise  to  me,  but  long  experience  had 
taught  Rodriguez  that,  however  rude  these  men  were  them- 


THE  PAMPAS.  151 

selves,  he  was  not  likely  to  gain  anything  by  roughness. 
After  we  had  reckoned  with  our  host,  and  paid  him  for  his 
horses,  we  set  off  as  before  in  full  gallop.  These  post-sta- 
tions were  formerly  maintained  by  the  viceroys  of  Peru  and 
Buenos  Ayres ;  at  the  present  time,  however,  they  are  to  be 
found  only  on  that  part  of  the  Pampas  inhabited  by 
Gauchas,  to  whose  guidance  the  traveller  may  confidently 
commit  himself.  But  if  he  has  once  travelled  over  these 
plains,  he  must  not  expect  to  find  these  post-houses  at  the 
same  distances  a  second  time.  In  consequence  of  the  love 
of  wandering  of  these  Nomadic  dwellers,  no  regular  stopping 
place  is  to  be  depended  upon ;  so  the  traveller,  in  expecta- 
tion of  not  finding  a  station  where  he  had  procured  a  relay  a 
short  time  before,  always  takes  a  few  supernumerary  horses 
with  him. 

The  heat  increased  in  full  measure  as  we  proceeded  over 
the  steppes,  and  at  noon  was  more  than  commonly  oppres- 
sive ;  but  abating  as  the  afternoon  advanced,  the  evening 
was  accompanied  by  a  cool  invigorating  breeze.  We  found 
it,  therefore,  much  pleasanter  to  travel  only  in  the  morning 
and  evening,  although  the  short  twilight  afforded  an  obsta- 
"cle,  for  night  trod  so  closely  on  the  heels  of  day,  that  dark- 
ness came  on  before  we  were  aware  of  it,  and  our  horses 
frequently  stumbled  or  fell  into  holes  made  by  the  numerous 
Bischacas,  to  the  imminent  danger  of  our  necks  and  limbs. 
These  little  creatures,  resembling  our  Marmots,*  are  found 
in  great  numbers  in  the  Pampas,  and,  like  the  ants,  live  in 
*  The  Alpine  rat. 


152  THE  PAMPAS. 

communities  in  holes  which  they  dig  in  the  ground.  It  is 
to  be  wondered  at,  that  more  accidents  do  not  happen  from 
the  frequency  of  these  holes,  and  I  cannot  now  conceive 
how  I  escaped  with  only  a  few  bruises,  when  I  consider  the 
constant  danger  to  which  both  life  and  limb  was  exposed. 
These  cavities  are  mostly  covered  with  grass  or  twigs,  and 
it  is  impossible  for  the  horse,  in  his  wild  gallop  over  these 
plains,  to  avoid  them — the  first  notice  he  has,  is  by  falling 
in.  In  such  cases,  the  rider  is  mostly  flung  over  the  ani- 
mal's head,  but  he  must  be  up  in  a  moment,  and  on  the  back 
of  his  horse,  or  he  will  continue  hia  gallop  without  him.  It 
happened  more  than  once  that  I  was  obliged  to  practise 
these  gymnastic  movements — I  cannot,  however,  say  I  de- 
rived any  pleasure  from  the  exercise.  To  the  undaunted 
Gaucha,  these  feats  are  only  productive  of  amusement ;  like 
a  cat,  he  always  falls  upon  his  feet,  and  ere  you  have  time 
to  laugh  at  him,  he  is  in  his  saddle,  galloping  forward  as 
lively  as  before. 

By  the  time  we  reached  the  third  station,  I  was  altogether 
exhausted.  We  had  dashed  over  twenty  miles  at  this  rapid 
gait,  and  we  should  still  be  obliged  to  travel  at  this  same 
rate  for  twelve  days,  in  order  to  reach  our  place  of  destina- 
tion. To  any  one  whose  bodily  frame  is  not  prepared  for 
hardship,  by  suitable  regimen  and  long  habit,  such  rapid 
and  continued  movement  is  anything  but  pleasant. 

The  simple  fare  of  the  Gauchas,  consisting  principally  of 
beef,  with  but  little  admixture  of  bread,  and  no  vegetables, 
together  with  their  living  in  the  open  air,  renders  them 


THE  PAMPAS.  153 

capable  of  enduring  the  greatest  fatigue  ;  and  if  the  Euro- 
pean will  accustom  himself  to  the  same  kind  of  diet  for  a 
short  time,  he  will  be  surprised  at  the  invigorating  effect  of 
this  primitive  fare. 

Rodriguez  remarked  my  pale  face  and  complete  exhaus- 
tion, and  compassionately  proposed  that  we  should  stop  and 
pass  the  night  here.  I  threw  myself  and  my  saddle  on  the 
ground,  and  almost  in  the  same  instant,  the  benevolent  god 
of  sleep  placed  his  leaden  seal  upon  my  weary  eyelids.  But 
I  did  not  enjoy  his  sweet  influence  without  interruption ;  a 
swarm  of  musquitoes  came  with  the  night,  settling  on  my 
face,  hands,  and  neck,  and  worse  than  an  army  of  hungry 
locusts,  threatened  to  devour  me.  I  covered  up  my  head  in 
a  blanket ;  this  protected  me  from  their  stings,  but  I  was 
nearly  smothered  with  heat.  Half  mad  with  pain,  and 
fairly  desperate,  I  started  up  and  ran  to  the  hut,  where  I 
threw  myself  on  the  floor.  Fleas  and  bugs  now  preyed 
upon  me,  feasting  on  my  poor  body,  as  though  they  had 
never  made  a  meal  before.  Nevertheless,  so  great  was  my 
exhaustion,  I  yielded  myself  a  quiet  victim,  and  slept  in 
spite  of  them  until  morning. 


in  JUssin. 


A  WINTER  journey  from  Sweden  to  Finland  over  the 
frozen  Gulf  of  Bothnia,  is  not  less  troublesome  than  rich  in 
scenes  of  frozen  beauty,  and  presents  a  spectacle  of  rare 
interest  to  the  traveller  from  the  South. 

When,  "with  both  my  compagnons  du  voyage,  and  two  ser- 
vants, I  reached  the  coast  at  Grislehamm,  to  our  great 
astonishment,  the  postmaster  brought  us  no  fewer  than 
eight  sleighs,  insisting  that  we  could  not  possibly  do  with  a 
less  number.  We  regarded  this  at  the  time  as  an  excuse 
to  draw  money  out  of  the  pockets  of  travellers,  but  we  soon 
had  reason  to  change  our  opinion,  for  we  found  it  was  a 
wise  and  necessary  provision  for  our  comfort,  and  called 
for  gratitude  towards  the  worthy  host,  rather  than  repro- 
bation. 

It  was  on  a  bright  winter  morning  that  we  left  Grisle- 
hamm, to  begin  our  journey  over  the  ice  that  covered  the 
Gulf  of  Bothnia.  My  imagination  had  been  busy  in  pictur- 
ing the  unpleasantness  of  the  way  that  lay  for  fourteen 
miles  across  a  flat  plain  of  ice  —  the  dull  monotony  of  the 
enowy  waste,  where  every  station  was  like  the  one  we  had 
just  left  ;  but  those  anticipations  soon  gave  way  to  brighter 
realities,  that  increased  as  the  distance  widened  between 

(154) 


SCENES  IN  RUSSIA.  155 

ourselves  and  our  last  night's  quarters.  The  way,  at  first 
smooth  and  even,  gradually  grew  more  rugged ;  masses  of 
ice  still  retaining  the  form  of  the  waves  that  ruffled  its  now 
frozen  waters,  as  if  the  breath  of  winter  had  congealed  them 
in  an  instant ;  and  as  we  advanced,  huge  blocks,  driven  to- 
gether until  piled  up  like  towers,  awoke  our  strongest  admi- 
ration. Some  of  them,  resting  on  a  small  base  and  widening 
to  the  top,  seemed  to  be  suspended  in  the  air — others 
assumed  the  forms  of  pyramids.  The  whole  presented  a 
picture  of  extreme  confusion,  as  if  nature  had  been  at  play 
blindfolded ;  and  with  its  brilliant  and  novel  aspect,  filled 
the  beholder  with  reverence  and  wonder.  It  was  an  im- 
measurable chaos  of  ice  blocks,  thrown  into  all  imaginable 
figures  ;  and  now,  glancing  in  the  bright  morning  rays  of  a 
winter's  sun,  almost  blinded  us  with  the  brilliant  and  pris- 
matic effect  of  its  coloring. 

It  was  a  work  of  no  small  difficulty  to  find  a  road  for 
sleighs  and  horses,  safely  through  these  wedges  of  ice.  At 
times,  and  with  great  trouble,  we  were  obliged  to  assume  a. 
retrograde  movement,  in  order  to  avoid  some  huge  blocks 
that,  piled  up  like  pyramid  or  tower,  lay  directly  in  our 
way,  and  round  which  it  was  impossible  to  turn.  In  spite 
of  all  our  efforts  to  choose  the  smoothest  way,  our  sleighs 
were  every  moment  upsetting ;  and  the  feet  of  the  over- 
turned, taking  that  place  in  the  air  which  ought  to  be  occu- 
pied by  the  head,  was  a  signal  for  the  whole  cavalcade  to 
stop. 

But  a  more  important  source  of  danger  and  inconvenience 


156  SCENES  IN  RUSSIA. 

to  us  travellers  ensued  from  the  following  circumstance: 
Our  horses  were  made  exceedingly  skittish  from  the  sight 
and  odor  of  our  coats  and  cloaks,  which  were  made  of  skins 
that  had  once  helonged  to  some  Russian  wolf  or  bear.  If 
any  person  tumbled  out,  the  horses,  taking  fright  at  what 
they  could  not  doubt  was  one  or  the  other  of  these  animals, 
since  they  were  clothed  in  the  garments  nature  had  be- 
stowed on  them,  dashed  over  the  uneven  ice  at  full  flight, 
to  the  great  anxiety  of  both  travellers  and  drivers.  The 
peasant-guide,  dreading  to  lose  his  horse  in  this  icy  desert, 
held  on  to  the  reins  with  all  his  might ;  suffering  the  animal 
to  drag  himself  and  sleigh  over  the  rough  fragments  that 
lay  all  around,  at  the  risk  of  breaking,  not  only  the  vehicle, 
but  his  neck.  Even  when  conquered  by  his  master's  reso- 
lute presence  of  mind,  and  wearied  by  his  own  rapid  flight, 
he  was  brought  to  a  stand  still,  we  could  not  resume  our 
places  in  the  sleigh  until  the  driver  had  thrown  a  covering 
over  his  eyes. 

In  more  than  one  case,  it  happened  that  some  of  the 
more  spirited  horses  obtained  the  mastery  over  his  guide. 
The  peasant,  after  being  thus  dragged  along  for  some  time, 
no  longer  able  to  endure  the  pain  and  bruises  caused  by 
blows  against  the  sharp  points  of  the  ice  blocks,  would  let 
the  lines  fall  from  his  hands ;  and  the  animal,  thus  freed 
from  his  load,  feeling  himself  at  full  liberty,  ran  at  full 
speed,  overcoming  all  hindrances.  The  sleigh,  which 
danced,  as  it  were,  behind  his  heels,  increased  his  terror, 
and  increased  the  speed  of  his  flight — which  he  continued, 


SCENES  IN  RUSSIA.  157 

until  in  the  far  distance  he  appeared  like  a  dark  speck,  that 
still  grew  smaller  on  the  white  plain,  until  at  last  it  was  lost 
to  sight  altogether. 

It  was  now  that  we  experienced  how  necessary  was  the 
care  exercised  by  our  host  at  Grislehamm,  in  providing  us 
with  supernumerary  horses,  and  how  hazardous  a  journey 
over  the  frozen  gulf  of  Bothnia  would  be  without  such  a 
provision.  The  owner  of  the  runaway  at  once  mounted  one 
of  the  other  sleighs,  and  set  off  in  pursuit — the  track  being 
easily  ascertained  by  the  traces  left  by  the  overturned  ve- 
hicle as  it  was  dragged  along. 

We  continued  our  journey  as  well  as  we  could  under  such 
circumstances,  towards  the  Islands  of  Aland,  although  meeting 
with  every  danger,  as  we  were  constantly  upsetting,  or  the 
horses  running  off.  During  our  whole  travel  over  the  ice, 
we  did  not  meet  a  single  living  thing,  neither  man,  animal, 
nor  even  a  bird.  The  death-like  stillness  that  reigned  over 
this  desert,  was  broken  only  by  the  wind  as  it  rushed  through 
the  crevices  of  the  ice,  or  swept  against  its  jagged  projec- 
tions, moaning  and  howling  like  some  disturbed  spirit  that 
might  be  imprisoned  there.  Sometimes  a  report  was  heard 
like  that  of  a  pistol,  occasioned  by  the  unloosening  of  some 
large  block  from  the  principal  mass,  and  gave  additional 
solemnity  to  the  picture  by  which  we  were  surrounded. 
From  between  the  chasms  made  by  the  masses  of  ice  thus 
disunited,  large  open  spaces  of  water  were  seen,  and  over 
these  abysses  we  were  often  obliged  to  lay  a  temporary 
bridge  of  boards,  brought  with  us  for  that  purpose.  The 


158  SCENES  IN  RUSSIA. 

only  living  creatures  we  saw  upon  this  icy  desert,  were  a  few 
seals  who  occasionally  crossed  our  path,  but  slipped  into  the 
water  when  we  tried  to  take  them ;  no  other  animal  can  find 
a  fitting  ahode  amidst  this  scene  of  desolation. 

After  contending  with  unspeakable  hindrances,  and  of 
the  most  dangerous  kind,  stopping  only  at  intervals  to  refresh 
our  wearied  horses,  we  at  length  reached  the  little  island  of 
Signilscar.  On  this  desert  spot,  neither  tree  nor  field  is 
seen ;  it  is  inhabited  only  by  a  few  peasants  and  the  inspec- 
tor of  the  telegraph,  which  is  placed  here  for  the  advantage 
of  a  direct  correspondence  with  Grislehamm.  It  is  one  of 
the  smallest  among  the  many  clusters  of  islands  which  are 
scattered  about  this  part  of  the  gulf,  which  are  known  by 
the  name  of  the  Isles  of  Aland.  In  a  straight  line,  Grisle- 
hamm lies  only  five  Swedish  miles  from  Signilscar;  but 
from  the  devious  windings  of  the  road,  more  than  double 
that  distance  is  passed  over,  and  every  step  is  attended  with 
danger. 

During  the  whole  of  our  journey  to  this  island,  we  were 
not  a  little  troubled  about  our  runaway  horses ;  and  had 
scarce  a  doubt  but  that  they  had  lost  their  way  over  this 
illimitable  waste  of  ice,  or  else  plunged  with  our  sleighs 
trunks  and  baggage  into  some  air  hole,  and  by  this  time 
were  food  for  fishes.  But  we  found  that  Signilscar,  although 
a  barren  spot,  was  able  to  furnish  us  with  fresh  horses ;  and 
in  our  preparations  for  proceeding,  they  were  already  being 
harnessed  to  our  sleighs,  when,  to  our  great  satisfaction,  we 
saw  our  peasant  guide  returning  with  the  runaways,  our 


SCENES  IN  RUSSIA.  159 

baggage  all  safe,  and  the  sledges,  although  broken,  still  fit 
for  the  road. 

The  poor  animals  were  in  a  pitiable  condition;  their 
whole  bodies  were  covered  with  foam,  and  enveloped  in  a 
cloud  of  steam ;  and  notwithstanding  the  exhaustion  conse- 
quent on  their  race,  as  soon  as  they  saw  us  they  were  ready 
to  begin  it  again.  As  much  frightened  as  before  at  the 
sight  of  our  wolf-skin  cloaks,  they  reared  up  with  loud 
neighings,  prancing  and  stamping  on  the  ice  and  snow,  and 
had  nearly  tore  loose  from  their  driver  again ;  but  when  we 
withdrew,  and  they  lost  both  sight  and  smell  of  the  dreaded 
travelling  robes,  they  were  as  tractable  as  dogs. 

The  last  half  of  our  journey  was  prosecuted  without  any 
untoward  incident  happening;  but  the  way  was  now  much 
easier  found,  and  following  the  direction  which  was  indicated 
by  poles  inserted  in  the  ice,  we  reached  our  place  of  desti- 
nation in  safety. 


THE    END. 


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